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The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but having new eyes.
Better words couldn’t have been said than what Marcel Proust mentioned above. In contrast, everyone loves to travel; not all go beyond the star attractions, especially when going on a Leh Ladakh road trip. Travel, if done responsibly, can bring us up close to some of our planet’s most stunning natural wonders and connect us with unique cultures around the globe. Moreover, it also has the power to change places and the lives of the people who live there – for better or worse. Through our latest venture – TSW Trips – we want to change locals and travellers’ lives for the better through our specially curated sustainable trips. Let’s explore offbeat places like a local in a sustainable way.
Being a full-time traveller who has travelled to around 70 countries worldwide and 25+ states in India, I think I know a bit about our beautiful planet. People often ask me for my advice when planning their trips and often ask me if they could join me on my travels.
“Happiness is only real when shared,” said Christopher McCandless. So, here we are, sharing our joy of visiting offbeat places in search of untold stories with you.
Presenting TSW Trips exclusively curated for you that I’ve personally experienced not just once but many times. Trips that are highly personalised, completely offbeat and experiential. Most importantly, they are sustainable and would benefit the economically challenged local communities at the grassroots.
My second innings in life (aka my travel career) was a gift from Ladakh. If Ladakh had not happened, I, Archana Singh, would not have left the corporate world to make my passion (travel) my profession.
As I start a new chapter of my travel life, I thought of going back to the drawing board and starting from where I took the first step – Ladakh. Moreover, having visited Ladakh 7-8 times, I know a bit of the place. I have some outstanding local experts who are keen to show the hidden gems of their homeland.
TSW Trips to Offbeat Ladakh is an initiative to help you get in touch with the true essence of Ladakh. An essence that goes beyond star attractions to take you to the heart of “Lama Land” that lives in its villages. Allow us to take you on a journey that will show you Ladakh in a different light altogether.
Through this trip, you will get an opportunity to experience the unique cultures, artisanal cuisines, extraordinary adventures and awe-inspiring landscapes of Ladakh. You’ll get to meet and interact with the local indigenous communities that are almost on the verge of extinction, visit notable monasteries, and experience local food that hardly anyone knows. The tour will be guided by locals and your very own Archana Singh (half Ladakhi herself by now), who have full knowledge of the local terrain and sites that provide overwhelming experiences.
Here’s a sneak peek of what you’ll see in Ladakh with TSW.
15th-22nd August 2021
Day 01 –: Leh Arrival.
Traditional Ladakhi welcome followed by a full day rest to acclimatise well before exploring Ladakh. The two highlights of the day would be – firstly, a short introductory presentation about Ladakh, its history and culture to better understand the destination. Secondly, experiencing a Tibetan medicine system established during the 7th century.
Overnight in Leh.
Day 02 – Visit the Monastery, Nunnery, Market and Shanti Stupa
We will start early morning to attend the morning prayers with the monks at a 16th-century monastery, followed by a riverside breakfast on the banks of the Indus River. Later, we will visit a local nunnery to learn the secrets of spirituality from the nuns of Ladakh. In the afternoon, we will go on a heritage walk of the Leh town that was once the hub of traders and artists on the silk route. We will round off the day with a visit to Shanti Stupa, a symbol of peace sitting atop the cliff. We would witness the golden hour with soul-soothing reverberating Buddhist chants.
Overnight in Leh.
Day 3: Leh to Aryan Valley via Alchi
After breakfast, we’ll leave for Aryan Valley, ‘the Land of Aryans”. The inhabitants are believed to be the descendants of Alexander’s army. The latter is believed to have wandered on their expedition some two thousand years ago. Besides tourists, Aryan Valley has gained a lot of attention from historians, filmmakers and anthropologists. En-route the valley, we’ll pass through villages that became a household name during Kargil War. Interestingly, these villages are also considered the most fertile in the entire region and produce the best of the apricots and apples in the valley. While interacting with the locals, we’ll taste the fresh apricots straight from the orchards.
On the way, we will pass through Pather Sahib Gurudwara, Magnetic hill, Confluence of Indus and Zanskar rivers and reach Alchi, where we will visit the oldest monastery of Ladakh, which has unique architecture and rare wall paintings.
Overnight at the Homestay run by the local family to savour authentic Aryan cuisine.
Day 4: Aryan Valley Village tour and Apricot Harvesting.
After breakfast, we will go on a guided tour of the village and apricot fields to relish the fresh ripe fruit. Later we will enjoy authentic local Aryan cuisine over lunch. In the evening, we will have cultural performances by the locals while sipping the local grapevine.
Overnight in Aryan Valley.
Day 05 – Aryan Valley back to Leh.
After breakfast, we will bid goodbye to the Aryans and drive back to Leh via the same route. Reach Leh by evening as we will stop by at various places en-route. Evening you’ll be free to explore the market on your own.
Overnight at Leh.
Day 06- River Rafting in Zanskar river.
Ladakh is known for adventure, and a visit to Ladakh would be incomplete without indulging in one of the most adventurous activities – white water river rafting on Zanskar river and July-August are the best months for this activity when the river gets swollen with water. You can raft on rapids up to grade IV. Hot lunch will be served at the rafting location itself. It’s almost a full day activity.
The evening will be free to explore the Leh market or any other place you want to explore by yourself. Overnight in Leh.
Day 7: Visit PAGIR and Artisanal Alchemy.
The experiences that we will have today will stay with us for the rest of our lives simply because, with the first one, you will impact and contribute to making someone’s life better positively. The second one will leave a long-lasting impression on your taste buds by experiencing the authentic local Ladakhi cuisine that no one knows about.
We’ll start our day by visiting PAGIR (Peoples Action Group for Inclusions and Rights), a Leh based NGO run by the disabled hailing from various parts of Ladakh. The organisation has been working tirelessly for the last thirteen years to welfare of the disabled communities of Ladakh. The artisans, who are primarily differently-abled, works for preserving the environment and promote the livelihoods of communities engaged in waste management. They turn waste raw materials like paper, cloth, plastic or cd into decorative and meaningful products. They even make sustainable bricks from waste. You can not only see them working, but you’ll be able to try your hands too at making your own gift items with recycled materials.
After this life-transforming experience, we will experience a specially curated Ladakhi artisanal meal by an exceptional local expert. Overnight at Hotel
Day 08- Departure
Tour Ends but not the experiences.
July!
Or you can extend your trip by two more days to experience any of the below destinations at an extra cost.
Option 1- Khardungla Pass/ Nubra Valley (Minimum 2 PAX)
Option II- Pangong Lake (Minimum 2 PAX)
Option III- Tsomoriri (Minimum 2 PAX)
Day 09- Return to Leh
Day 10- Departure
Get early drop back to the airport for a flight back home with happy memories of Travel See Write in Ladakh.
Disclaimers – If the situation worsens because of COVID, we will cancel the trip and refund the entire fees of the trip as the safety of locals and travellers is most important for us.
Group size
Only ten people. First-come, first-serve basis.
Here is a glimpse of different experiences you’ll have in Ladakh:
The cost of the entire Trip – Rs 45,000/-
Tour Inclusions for 7N8D trip:
· Accommodation on twin sharing basis
· Meal Plan – Breakfast & Dinner
· Transfers
Tour Exclusion:
· Flight Tickets
· Lunch
· Any kind of Insurance
· Museum or Palace Tickets
· Beverages, telephone calls, items of a personal nature, and personal services.
· Anything not included in ‘Tour inclusions’
· Additional days
Cancellation
· For cancellations received up to 30 calendar days before the scheduled departure; a 25% cancellation fee will be charged.
· For cancellations received 15 -29 calendar days before the scheduled departure date; a 60% cancellation fee will be charged.
· For cancellations received 7 -14 calendar days before the scheduled departure date; an 80% cancellation fee will be charged.
· For cancellations received within 7 calendar days before the scheduled departure date, a 100% cancellation fee will be charged.
While TSW trips are open to all, I would request the following people not to join who
While you’ll make life long memories at the end of the trip, the locals will earn their livelihood from showcasing their land and culture. Our close association with local Ladakhi communities will take us beyond the majestic mountains and high passes to experience the local Ladakhi Life most authentically!
Additionally, we will ensure that we leave only footprints while making memories. We will leave no trash behind throughout our trip and will try to neutralise our carbon footprint to zero.
The flora and fauna that we discover during our travels are essential to the local people who live in the places we visit. Indigenous communities tend to have an incredibly intimate relationship with the natural world. They rely heavily on the land and its resources for their traditional ways of life.
As Responsible Travellers, we must take care to protect the local lands and ecosystems that we visit. Because while these places are destinations to us, locals call them home. Let’s not destroy others home for our pleasure.
If yes, email at archana@travelseewrite.com to book your slot. Hurry up! Limited slots.
Before the second wave, India established the Air Bubble pact with 27 countries, while flights were operational to many other countries. These included sought-after holiday destinations such as the United Kingdom, Europe, United States, Canada, United Arab Emirates, Hong Kong, Thailand, and Sri Lanka. But as India battled the massive tsunami of coronavirus cases during the second wave of COVID-19, almost all countries put a travel ban on flights originating from India.
With cases dropping steadily in India after the brutal surge in April-May and India vaccinating more of its population daily, the idea of International travel is yet again looking possible for Indians. While some countries are allowing fully vaccinated Indian travellers, others have relaxed the travel restrictions.
Vaccinated Indian travellers have started dreaming about future vacations overseas. Still, it’s essential to plan for a safe and hassle-free experience. To enable you with the correct information, here is a list of all the countries that are open to Indian tourists currently.
As per Kayak, this is the current status for International Travel Restrictions for Indian Travellers
Eight European Union countries (Austria, Germany, Greece, Slovenia, Ireland, Spain, Estonia and Netherlands) and two non-member states, Iceland and Switzerland, have confirmed that they will permit Indians inoculated with Covishield to travel to their countries. Estonia has recognised all the vaccines authorised by the Indian government, including Covaxin, that local firm Bharat Biotech has developed.
Please note that India is still on the RED LIST of most European countries because of which Indian Travellers aren’t permitted to travel freely in Europe. Only the ones having long-stay visas are allowed to enter the European countries. They require an authorisation letter from your employer or embassy to establish the legitimacy and urgency of your travel. As a result, hardly any European Embassy in India is giving tourist visas to Indians as of date. So even if you are fully vaccinated and have a long stay tourist/business visa please do check with the respective embassy and flight carrier before booking your tickets.
Find up to date and detailed information about travel restrictions in place for every country in Europe, here.
Here are the travel guidelines in brief for each country.
Switzerland was the first European country to open its doors for fully vaccinated visitors from post-second Covid wave India. Moreover, Indian travellers who have got both jabs of Covishield don’t need to quarantine on arrival.
Travel Guidelines: Travellers who have been vaccinated or recovered from covid19 will be allowed to enter Switzerland without having to be tested or quarantined. Others have to present a negative PCR test or rapid antigen test and go into quarantine on entry.
For details about Switzerland visas for Indians, click here.
Germany has lifted its ban on travellers from five countries hit by the Delta variant of COVID-19, including India, Nepal, Russia, Portugal, and the United Kingdom. On July 7, these five countries were reclassified as “high-incidence areas” instead of the “virus variant country” category.
Travel Guidelines: Earlier only the citizens and residents of Germany were permitted to enter from India and they too had to undergo a two-week quarantine, regardless of whether they were fully vaccinated or were carrying a negative Covid-19 test. By contrast, now anyone from a high-incidence country can enter Germany as long as they provide a negative Covid test on arrival. They must in principle enter a 10-day quarantine but can end it after five days with another negative test. And, if Travellers from high-incidence areas are fully vaccinated then they are exempted from quarantine.
For details about German visas for Indians, click here.
One of the most popular tourist destinations globally, Spain reopened its border to all vaccinated tourists globally on June 7.
Travel Guidelines: Fully vaccinated individuals with a WHO or EMEA-approved vaccine are allowed to enter Spain. This means only travellers who have received Covishield will be eligible to apply for visas currently. In addition to vaccination proof, travellers will also have to take RT-PCR tests before departure.
For details about Spain visas for Indians, click here.
Russia is among the few countries allowing Indians to travel on tourist visas. Still, they have to go through a tedious process. Firstly, to enter Russia, one has to have an invitation from a government-mandated tourist agency and providing mere hotel reservations doesn’t suffice. Also, the so-called ‘vaccine holidays’ are turning out to be false because Russian authorities have confirmed that the country isn’t inoculating tourists.
Travel Guidelines: One has to produce an RT-PCR test within 72 hours before arrival and an on-spot test at arrival. If the test result comes negative, you can enter Russia. If positive, you will be transferred to a COVID treatment facility. Most travellers, vaccinated or unvaccinated, are not expected to live in quarantine, except for those who opt for an on-arrival test. They are required to wait for the results at a designated location for 24 or 48 hours. Also, since there are very few flights from India to Russia, the flight tickets are at least 2.5 times higher than regular airfare.
For details about Russian visas for Indians, click here.
Another popular destination for international travellers could be Serbia.
Travel Guidelines: The country allows travellers from all nations with a negative RT-PCR test 48-hours before taking the flight. In the absence of an RT-PCR test, one has to undergo a 10-day self-quarantine. Unlike most countries, Serbia accepts one dose of Covishield (Oxford-AstraZeneca) as proof of vaccination for travellers.
Lufthansa and KLM Royal Dutch operate only limited flights from India to Belgrade, Serbia. The prices are not exponentially high as compared to Russia.
For details about Serbia visas for Indians, click here. Indians are eligible for visa-on-arrival in Belgrade, making travel far more effortless.
Ukraine is yet another European country that has opened its borders to Indian tourists.
Travel Guidelines: Travellers visiting the nation will have to furnish a negative RT-PCR test, as well as a negative Antigen test. Moreover, they must have received both doses of a WHO-approved vaccine and should, without fail, carry a vaccination certificate of the same. Also, they might be subject to rapid-antigen tests across all state borders and check-posts in the country.
For details about Ukraine visas for Indians, click here.
All travellers’ regardless of their origin’ can now visit Iceland. The only requirement is that they have to be fully vaccinated with the approved vaccinations by the EU, including Covishield by AstraZeneca.
Travel Guidelines: Travellers will have to present a valid vaccination certificate and a negative PCR test upon arrival. They will be exempted from quarantine if the test comes negative.
Pure Luxe by KFT provides private charters and land packages since India doesn’t have an Air Bubble pact with Iceland.
For details about Iceland visas for Indians, click here.
While the UK has not lifted the ban on Indian travellers, you can still visit the nation if you have stayed in Iceland for more than ten days. In other words, it means that if you have to enter the UK on a Tourist Visa, you need to fly to Iceland first, stay there for 10-days and then you can enter the UK border.
For details about the United Kingdom visa for Indians, click here.
The land of kimchi, K-pop, K-dramas, Samsung, LG, Hyundai, the 12-step skincare routine, and of course, Gangnam Style is now open for Indian travellers.
Travel Guidelines: South Korea has lifted the travel ban on Indian Travellers and done away with the mandatory 14-day quarantine for those vaccinated with both the doses of Covishield vaccine. However, those vaccinated with Covaxin, which is yet to be approved by the World Health Organization, will have to remain in quarantine.
For details about South Korean visas for Indians, click here.
Sri Lanka is the only Indian subcontinent country that is open for Indian travellers currently.
Travel Guidelines: While Indian travellers can enter Sri Lanka, a 14-day quarantine is mandatory at hotels termed ‘Safe and Secure’. Also, they will be tested on the first, 11th and 14th day of their visit, regardless of them being vaccinated or not. Once they finish the mandatory quarantine, they can leave the hotel premises and explore the country.
For details about Sri Lanka visas for Indians, click here.
As per the official reports, the Maldives welcomed over 400,000 tourists since the beginning of January 2021. Russian travellers topped the chart, followed by Indians. However, Maldives put a ban on Indian Travellers when the second wave hit India. But now the Maldives has again opened its doors for Indian travellers resuming its visa-on-arrival for Indian travellers starting July 15
Travel Guidelines: As per a tweet from the Maldives tourism ministry, international passengers must carry a negative RT-PCR test. Travellers must take the COVID test within 96 hours from the scheduled time of departure. Also, they’ll need to fill in the health declaration form on the Maldives immigration portal 24 hours prior to the departure. There won’t be any mandatory quarantine or test on arrival. However, if someone shows COVID-19 symptoms, they will have to undergo a PCR test.
For details about Maldives visas for Indians, click here.
After staying closed for tourists for a long time, Mauritius is opening to welcome all vaccinated guests from July 15 onwards.
Travel Guidelines: However, international travellers still need to show a negative RT-PCR test report. Upon arrival in Mauritius, they will also need to undergo a Covid test followed by 14 days mandatory quarantine at an establishment approved by the authorities. After a negative COVID test result on the 14th day, travellers are free to explore the island nation.
For details about Mauritius visas for Indians, click here.
Armenia has been open for international travellers for a while, but the once sought after travel destination became a quarantine hub for hundreds of Indians returning to the UAE when the UAE suspended flights to India. While the restrictions are still in place, Indian tourists can plan a future trip to the country rich in cultural heritage and delicious food.
Travel Guidelines: Indian travellers entering Armenia need to either provide a negative RT-PCR test from a maximum of 72 hours before departure or provide a vaccination certificate.
For details about Armenia visas for Indians, click here.
The central Asian country is home to some of the Silk Road’s most iconic sights, including the three great Silk Road cities of Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand. The country is now open for travellers, including Indian tourists.
Other Asian countries that are expected to allow Indians soon – United Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia, Thailand, Hong Kong and Taiwan
Travel Guidelines To visit Uzbekistan this year, you’ll need a negative RT-PCR test report not older than 72 hours before arrival, followed by 14 days of mandatory quarantine.
For details about Uzbekistan visas for Indians, click here.
Kyrgyzstan, a Central Asian country boasting of grand architecture, heritage sites and cultural lessons, is now open for Indian travellers.
Travel Guidelines: Travellers who are not vaccinated will need to carry a negative RT-PCR test taken within 72 hours before boarding a flight to Kyrgyzstan. Also, upon arrival, they will need to self-quarantine. Those who can give internationally recognised vaccination certificates are exempted from all forms of tests.
For details about Kyrgyzstan visas for Indians, click here.
Although Afghanistan is not considered a safe destination by most travellers, this landlocked nation is open to Indian tourists.
Travel Guidelines: Indians will need to produce a negative RT-PCR test report that should not be older than 72 hours before arrival in Afghanistan. However, it is advised that travellers avoid travelling to Kabul for the next few weeks, owing to the rise of COVID cases in the capital city.
For details about Afghanistan visas for Indians, click here.
A popular destination among Indian travellers, Turkey, is now allowing tourists.
Travel Guidelines: While travellers can plan a trip to Turkey, they’ll have to undergo mandatory 14-day institutional quarantine. Travellers must take an RT-PCR test on the fourteenth day. Only on testing negative will they be allowed to leave the quarantine facility. Another demotivating factor is the ticket prices – at least twice higher than regular airfare and flights operated by carriers such as Air India, Emirates and KLM Royal Dutch.
For details about Turkey visas for Indians, click here.
South Africa hasn’t imposed any travel restrictions on Indian tourists since the beginning of the pandemic. Still, flight options remain limited, as do ports of entry.
Travel Guidelines: All you need to visit this destination is an RT-PCR test report, which should not be older than 72 hours before taking the flight. As per the reports, if those arriving in South Africa fail to present their negative PCR test as the certificate of proof, they will need to self-quarantine at their own expense.
For details about South Africa visas for Indians, click here.
Egypt, the land of Pyramids, has opened its borders to Indian travellers.
Travel Guidelines: Like other countries, travellers have to furnish a negative RT-PCR test for a maximum of 72 hours before flying to Egypt. Also, they’ll have to undergo a rapid DNA test on arrival. If the test result comes positive, either they’ll be quarantined for 15 days or be sent back to their point of departure.
For details about Egypt visas for Indians, click here.
Indian travellers with valid visas can now visit the African nations with limited restrictions in place.
Travel Guidelines: If not vaccinated, Indian travellers will need to carry a negative RT-PCR test taken no less than five days before the date of departure and will be required to self-isolate for seven days.
For details about Ethiopia visas for Indians, click here.
While Rwanda has opened to tourism, it has placed stringent COVID-19 measures for all international tourists.
Travel Guidelines: Like most countries, travellers visiting Rwanda have to present a negative RT-PCR test taken at least 72 hours before taking the flight. Upon arrival, they’ll need to take a PCR test costing $60 and must quarantine for 24 hours at a designated hotel. A rapid antigen test is required to visit most tourist places in Rwanda. Moreover, some tourist places such as the famous volcanos and national parks require a negative RT-PCR test (72-hour period) for admission.
For details about Rwanda visas for Indians, click here.
The first country in North America post-COVID19 second wave to allow Indian tourists without too many travel restrictions.
Travel Guidelines: The country does not require any vaccine or pre-flight testing. While the Mexican Embassy is currently not issuing tourist visas, those with valid US, UK, Schengen, or Japanese visas and permanent residents can enter visa-free.
Currently, Emirates, Qatar Airways, Air France, Lufthansa, and United serve several locations in Mexico with one-stop.
After keeping its borders closed for Indian tourists for a while, Canada has also brought in a slew of travel relaxations and has exempted fully vaccinated people from mandatory quarantine from July 5th onwards. The move is aimed at facilitating international students, relatives of permanent residents, and temporary workers with valid work permits. Here are the details you must know before booking your tickets:
Travel Guidelines: All travellers have to mandatorily provide a negative Covid-19 test report taken within 72 hours before their entry to Canada. Those entering the country must be vaccinated with both doses of a Covid-19 vaccine. At the moment, the Canadian government accepts Pfizer-BioNTech, Moderna, AstraZeneca/Covishield, and Johnson and Johnson vaccines. People who have taken the Bharat Biotech vaccine or Russian-made Sputnik will have to undergo mandatory quarantine upon entering Canada. Those who are travelling without taking the approved vaccine jabs will have to quarantine at a hotel for three days, take a second test on the eighth day of their arrival, and complete 14-days in self-isolation, as per the reports. Travellers must upload their proof of vaccination in the ArriveCAN portal. One important thing to note is that direct flights from India will remain prohibited till July 21 until further notice.
For details about Canada visas for Indians, click here.
Indians can now travel to Costa Rica.
Travel Guidelines: Travellers neither need a vaccination certificate nor an RT-PCR test report. However, travellers will have to fill out a health pass form upon arrival at the rainforested Central American country.
For details about Costa Rica visa for Indians, click here.
In the end, all I can say is while the world is slowly coming back to normal, remember that your vaccine is not your ticket to international travel. Your vaccine AND global vaccine equity is our collective ticket to the meaningful return of international travel. Let’s limit our travel until the pandemic is under control, and if we must travel, let’s travel responsibly.
Disclaimer: The travel guidelines and restrictions mentioned for each country are as of July 2, 2021. These might change, as per the rules and regulations of each country, depending on the coronavirus situation in India. Before planning your trip please do check with the respective embassy and flight carrier.
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Ladakh, the northernmost union territory of India, is at high altitudes ranging from 8,780 ft to 25,170 ft height in the Karakoram Range. Most of the year, the region has to bear long, cold, harsh wind-swept winters where temperatures fall as low as – 40 °F. Because of such harsh living conditions, Ladakh is mostly barren, with few green patches here and there. Covering an area of 59,146 km², it supports 2.74 lakhs residents, most of whom make their living through subsistence agriculture. However, the population becomes more than double in summers when over three lakh tourists descend in this extremely picturesque land of high passes. Ever since Amir Khan’s Three Idiots hit the cinemas, Ladakh became the most loved destination for Indian tourists. The exponential rise in tourist footfall (from 16,449 tourists in 1994 to 2,79 lakhs in 2019) definitely brought in money and employment opportunities in the jobs-scarce Ladakh, but it also brought in an unwarranted tax on its precious natural resources. Soon there were mountains of plastic waste everywhere and the region started grappling with other over-tourism led issues.
Sajad Nabi Dar, a climate expert with M. Phil and PhD degrees in Sustainable Mountain Tourism Development in Ladakh, sheds light on tourists’ callousness. He told Travel See Write,
Ladakh has two types of toilets–traditional dry compost toilets and modern flush toilets. While the locals, especially farmers, prefer the conventional dry toilets, as they not only save water but are great for farming lands as well; but tourists prefer flush toilets. As a result, each tourist wastes around 7-8 buckets of precious water daily on a toilet, which is entirely unnecessary in a region where water is most precious.
Fe further continues that before the tourism boom, the glacial meltwater and springs were enough to supply water to the entire Leh town. But over the years, the water demand skyrocketed so much that they were not enough and the hotels and guesthouses had to dig bore wells to extract the groundwater, which further depleted the water table. Unfortunately, today almost all the springs in the town have dried up, and they require thousands of water tankers daily to fulfil the needs of the tourists. The worst part is the water shortage is forcing locals to leave their generational homes and give up their agrarian-based economy. Many villages in the valley, including villages such as Kulum near Leh and Kumik in Zanskar, were abandoned due to water shortage. While attempts are being made to rehabilitate ghost villages by solving the water crisis through artificial glaciers (Ice Stupas) the problem won’t get solved until they take concrete steps to reduce the unregulated tourism-led pressure on Ladakh.
While the tourist boom has undeniably created employment opportunities in the trans-Himalayan region of India, it has brought along severe after-effects, namely on the environment, culture and socio-economic divide of Ladakh.
The tourism industry has created a massive garbage and plastic problem in the region. Unfortunately, infrastructure in terms of waste disposal and management is still lacking, and the fragile ecosystem of Ladakh is being destroyed beyond repair. In a mindless race to lure tourists, hotels and guest houses try to match the western standards, undue pressuring scarce natural resources beyond what the local community usually requires. For example, instead of consuming the indigenously produced food items such as potatoes and barley (requiring lesser water to grow), tourists demand to eat tomatoes and peppers imported from other states where there is no water issue. Not just that, they litter non-biodegradable waste in the most pristine lands that are hard to clean.
As per Aparajita Goswami of Zero Waste Ladakh, “Ladakh has always been a Zero Waste society. However, with the opening of Ladakh to the outside world, the contents of the local waste changed, comprising a large portion of inorganic materials such as plastics, cement, glass, metals, ceramics, polyester, rubber and much more. Although dearly paid for by the locals, such waste materials hold little or no value for them. Thus, waste proliferation and pollution of the pristine environment have become the most pressing concerns in Ladakh.”
Konchok Norgay, who works with SECMOL (Students’ Educational and Cultural Movement of Ladakh and HIAL (Himalayan Institute Alternative Ladakh), founded by Sonam Wangchuk for Sustainable Development of Ladakh, told shared how Ladakh is loved to Death by tourists.
In tourist season every day 300-600 cars visit Pangong Lake carrying approximately four persons per car and each passenger buying at least four single-use plastic bottles. All these 5000 – 10,000 bottles are recklessly littered in the valley without thinking about who will clean up their mess once their trip ends. Since there is no proper waste management system in Ladakh, the plastic waste remains discarded forever in the open area, sometimes reaching inaccessible lands where tourists can’t reach it.
A sentiment further echoed by Sajjad, “Locals are more responsible for managing waste, but tourists don’t act responsibly. They have this mentality that because they are spending money on their trip, they have bought the hotel, and it’s their right to do whatever they want.”
He points out a simple solution to control plastic bottle waste that already exists but is not followed. There are water refilling stations everywhere in Leh, and locals always use them, but tourists don’t. They still buy single-use plastic bottles and contribute to ever-increasing mountains of rubbish in Leh.
Sharing the grim picture of an almost non-existent waste management system in Leh, Vilayat Ali of Pristine Ladakh says,
Every single day in the Tourist season, Leh generates over 50,000 single-use plastic bottles and approximately 16 tonnes of waste generated per day during tourist season. All this waste goes to an open landfill area called Bombguard that lies just outside Leh. Once a livestock pasture is now a large landfill and a breeding ground for 5000 Feral Dogs. These dogs have become a big menace–they attack locals, kill local wildlife and even mate with foxes. Thus bringing a permanent change in the wildlife of Ladakh.
Ladakh had no waste problems until two decades back; locals could recycle everything back to the land. Konchok Norgay explained Leh had no landfills until the two roads opened–Leh-Srinagar highway and Leh-Manali road. Once the roads opened, it brought hordes of tourists keen to get clicked on pristine landscapes but showed no respect and responsibility for managing their waste. The large volume of waste produced by them is polluting land, air, and water. While the plastic waste degrades the soil fertility and chokes water bodies, the poisonous fumes from open landfills make the already thin air non-breathable. Adding to the misery, the faulty sewage systems put up by hotel owners mix the contaminated water with spring water used by the local communities. To appease temporary tourists, they create permanent health hazards for locals.
Tourists also demand city like services such as air conditioning, heating, lighting, and transportation needs primarily run on fossil fuels. They add harmful diesel fumes and smoke to the list of Ladakh’s environmental woes. This unplanned tourism growth has been playing havoc on Ladakh’s fragile ecosystem for a while and irrevocably changing Ladakh’s climate. Temperatures are rising, glaciers are melting, and snow and ice sheet are becoming thinner by the day. The Zanskar river, which used to freeze for three months, hardly freezes for a month. As a result, they cut short the Chadar trek on frozen Zanskar this year for less than a month. Vilayat reminisces about his childhood when the temperature dropped as low as -35°C in winters, but in 2021, the lowest recorded temperature was just – 18°C. That shows the severity of the issue that no one is discussing.
From being primarily an agricultural economy, Ladakh’s economy now depends heavily on tourism-related activities, such as running hotels and restaurants, operating travel agencies, trekking and guiding companies, offering taxi and flight booking services, having souvenir shops, and so on. An uncountable number of people, especially the young, draw their income from these activities, thus making tourism almost the lifeline of Ladakhi economy and society. Because of the shift to tourism, locals are gradually giving up farming – their traditional source of livelihood. Thus, tourism has posed a direct threat to the conventional, agriculture-based economy of Ladakh. Not just that, the ancient Buddhist culture and ancient trans-Himalayan traditions are in danger too. Tourists look at locals as mere props of the pre-industrialised Tibetan era and don’t understand the local culture and cuisine of the place. Take, for example, how tourists objectify the unique Aran Valley culture. Dolkar, a resident of one of the last remaining villages of the claimed Pure Aryan race in the world, said how tourists are just interested in getting clicked with them wearing their elaborate headgear and sheep’s wool kaftans. Nobody wants to know how this over-commercialisation of culture is hurting the younger generations.
Tourism, Ladakh’s major cash cow, has brought clear economic benefits, but only to a minority of the population employed in this industry. Leh is the hub of Ladakh’s tourism economy, and very little of the economic benefit of tourism reach over 90 per cent of Ladakhis who live outside this area. Within Leh also, it’s the handful of Ladakhis owning large hotels that benefit disproportionately. Much of the money spent in Leh go to tour operators and merchants who come to Ladakh just for the tourist season.
According to the President of All Ladakh Tour Operators Association (ALTOA), Daleks Namgyal, 90% of the domestic tourists who visit Ladakh definitely keep Leh-Nubra-Pangong on their itinerary but explore little beyond that. Kargil, the other district in Ladakh, is similar in size and attractions as Leh gets only 15-20% tourists. And, they too mostly spend a day in the town to visit the war memorial or use it as a transit night halt destination when travelling on Leh-Srinagar highway.
The only way to save Ladakh’s fragile environment from unregulated tourism is through Sustainable Development. And, tourists can make a lot of difference in preventing damage to the environment of Ladakh by making wise choices.
You can avoid undue pressuring Ladakh and its people by travelling in the off-season and by visiting lesser-visited places. Look for unique experiences beyond visiting star attractions. Choose locally grown vegetables and fruits to support the local farmers. Waste less water and use dry compost toilets wherever possible. Choose homestays over swanky hotels. Have freshly cooked meals and locally made snacks instead of pre-packaged junk foods like chips, biscuits, and soft drinks.
The only way to reduce plastic is not to use it. You can do that by not buying single-use plastic bottles, plastic straws, single-use toiletries, and processed food and drinks that come in non-biodegradable packaging. Instead, opt for a reusable water bottle that you can refill from anywhere. Carry eco-friendly wooden or steel cutlery, and a reusable thermos flask. Relish freshly prepared food and drinks by the locals instead of eating packaged junk food. Most importantly, ensure that you don’t leave your trash behind when you travel and dispose of it properly at designated waste collection centres. Never litter on streets, in water bodies and scenic spots.
NGOs like PAGIR (People’s Action Group for Inclusion and Rights) are providing garbage solutions in Ladakh. Under their zero waste program, they collect waste from different parts of the city, bring it to their campus, segregate it and, according to the usability of the trash, recycle each item and use tailoring and various other techniques to make handcrafts that anyone can purchase from them. They even make sustainable bricks from rubbish. The best part is, besides solving the waste problem of Leh, PAGIR trains and provides employment to differently-abled Ladakhis who are otherwise considered as a burden by society.
As a responsible traveller, include adventure and nature activities in your itinerary, such as hiking or biking. It will keep you fit, reduce your carbon footprint, and help you build deeper connections with the locals.
If there’s one best road trip destination In India that needs no introduction, it’s Ladakh. Everyone dreams of either doing a motorbike expedition in Ladakh or simply a road trip in its pristine landscapes. The ₹600 crores (US$84 million) tourism industry in Ladakh was booming until the COVID19 pandemic changed our world forever. Vilayat Ali, the founder of Pristine Ladakh, shared how tourism has been unpredictable in the last one and a half years.
We completely lost the 2020 summer season, but 2021 looked promising with bookings done until Aug 2021. But then the second wave arrived, and everything vanished overnight, again. We somehow managed to survive in 2020 but don’t know how we can do it for one more year.
This is a common issue for most tour operators in Ladakh, and now survival has become an issue for them. While the situation won’t change overnight and needs an intervention of the government, the popularity of Ladakh gives a ray of hope to the people whose livelihood depends entirely on tourism. Just before the second wave hit India, I took a trip to Ladakh. It was my seventh trip to the valley, so I was not looking at the best places to visit in Ladakh or undertake a Ladakh bike trip as I had already done that before. This time my objective was to go wholly offbeat and create awareness about the issues that no one talks about. I am releasing a series of articles and videos on my experience in the land of high passes.
I chose to visit Ladakh in Feb-March for two main reasons. Firstly, I wanted to explore Ladakh without the invasion of pesky tourists, pushing their selfie-sticks in my face and photobombing each and every picture I click. I am sure many would have faced a similar situation. Secondly, I wanted to understand the environmental and cultural issues plaguing Ladakh’s fragile ecosystem. Unregulated tourism is creating more long-term problems than short-term economic gains. Unfortunately, not many are paying attention to climate change, waste management and cultural erosion of Ladakh. So, I decided to use this trip to dig deeper and give a voice to locals’ struggles.
The first decision I had to make was choosing the Delhi to Leh flight. Usually, the flights from Delhi to Leh are early morning which messes up your previous night’s sleep. Thankfully IndiGo’s flight to Leh was leaving at 10:45 am, so I quickly booked it. The icing on the cake was that it was the airline’s inaugural flight to Leh. So, there were a lot of surprises waiting for passengers. As I entered the Indira Gandhi Airport’s Terminal 2, I was greeted with a decorated check-in counter where the IndiGo staff distributed candies amongst the travellers. Also, there was a special certificate created for the occasion. The best part was that instead of one captain, there were three veteran captains on this flight. Upon arrival, a Ladakhi musical performance was organised at the Leh airport.
Here’s a video of my experience on IndiGo’s first flight to Leh.
Due to fewer guest arrivals, very few hotels and guesthouses remain opened in winters. Moreover, harsh winters and sub-zero temperature make it impossible for mid to small size properties to provide central heating and 24/7 hot and cold water to their guests. Thankfully Grand Dragon Ladakh is well equipped. And that’s why I made it my base. Being one of the oldest and grandest hotels in Ladakh, it is a destination to explore in itself. I was told in the summers, the room rent reaches 16,000 INR per night. The plush property is well designed, keeping the local Buddhist art and culture in mind but fully equipped with modern-day fittings. And, that explains why despite the tourist off-season, the hotel was completely sold out. Upon arrival, I discovered that my trip had coincided with the Winter Conclave, Ladakh. Thankfully I got a good room with a beautiful view of the mountains. The three-floored property has 75 rooms and 12 suites with six luxury suites and six heritage. You can read a full review of Grand Dragon Hotel here: Luxury Stay in Leh Ladakh.
Being a bucket list destination, Ladakh ranks very high on Indian tourist’s to-do list. And, there is no shortage of experiences that one can have in Ladakh. But out of the 2.79 lakh tourists that visited Ladakh in 2019, very few went on the non-touristy trail.
Instead of tick marking the places wanted to understand the people, their culture, struggles and food. So, I asked my local counterpart to prepare a completely offbeat itinerary.
Day 1 & 2 – Arrival, Acclimatisation and Shanti Stupa
Day 3 – Thiksey Monastery, Nyerma Nunnery and Ladakhi artisanal meal experience at Stoke Palace
Day 4 – SECMOL School, Chilling, PAGIR, and Bombguard waste dump yard site
Day 5 & 6 – Aryan Valley via Khaltse
Day 7 – Leh sightseeing (Hemis Monastery, Chuchot Village Double Humped Camel Farm, Central Asian Museum, Heritage town and Leh market)
Day 8 – Return to Delhi
So, in the upcoming #OffbeatLadakhWithTSW series, I’ll share in detail some of my ‘Ladakh in Winters’ experiences with you. Here’s a trailer of the series.
Until 14th June, the Leh district administration had imposed a weekend curfew across the district from Friday 9pm till 5am on Monday to curtail the rising number of Covid-19 cases. But some relaxations have been given like the odd-even non-essential vehicular movement is allowed with 50% of seating capacity. Public transport and non-essential shops are closed on all days. Restaurants can only provide home delivery, and hotels can open dine-in restaurants with their 30% capacity. Tourists are required to arrive with a negative RT-PCR report.
In the coming weeks, all restrictions are expected to be waived off.
By road
Riding a Royal Enfield in Ladakh is every biker’s dream, but that opportunity is only available for a limited window. There are two ways to get into the Union Territory of Ladakh – the Zoji-La Pass Kargil route from Srinagar District in the Kashmir Valley and the high altitude Manali-Leh Highway from Himachal Pradesh. The Manali-Leh road is open only from May/June to October/November when high mountain passes are safe to travel with no snow on the road. The Srinagar-Leh road is open from April/May to November/December.
By flight
Direct flights from Delhi Airport to military-operated Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport at Leh year-round on Air India, Vistara, Spicejet, GoAir, and Feb 2021 launched IndiGo. Air India also operates weekly flights to Jammu and Srinagar.
By train
The nearest railway station is Udhampur, where you need to take a taxi, bus or a flight to reach Leh Ladakh.
Ladakh is well served by local buses plying from Leh to Kargil towns. And, if you find them a tad too slow for your liking, you can always find taxis in Leh and Kargil as well as in block headquarters like Diskit, Tangtse, and Khalsa. In addition, you can save money by hopping into shared taxis going to Nubra, Kargil, Srinagar, and Zanskar. They usually leave Leh in the early morning.
Roads within Ladakh, except to Zanskar, are open all year round. But before planning to visit Ladakh in winters, check the weather report as the Khardung-La Pass to Nubra and Chang-La pass to Pangong Lake can get closed due to heavy snowfall in winters or spring. For example, I couldn’t visit Pangong in Feb 2021 because there was heavy snowfall at Chang-La.
If it’s your first time in Ladakh, most likely you would want to visit Pangong Tso Lake, Khardung-La Pass, Nubra, Thiksey Monastery, Tso Moriri lake, Hemis National Park, Diskit Monastery or Lamayuru.
However, I would strongly urge you to go off the beaten space and explore places such as Aryan Valley, Zanskar, Changthang, Sham Valley, and Markha Valley, among many more regions that hardly get the benefits tourism. Instead, 90% of the tourists visit the usual touristy spots – Leh, Khardungla, Nubra, and Pangong.
The best month to visit Ladakh is anytime around the year. However, if you want to see Ladakh in full bloom then June to Sept is a great time. Days are crisp, long and the weather is pleasant. However, you’ll find lots of summer holiday crowd in the months of May and June. Often I get asked questions such as “can we go to Ladakh in winters” or “how cold is Ladakh in winters” or “is it safe to visit Ladakh in December or January”. The answer is Yes. After all, there is no such thing as bad weather, only inappropriate clothing. Ladakh looks gorgeous in winters and you can explore the wintery beauty of Ladakh from January to March. But pack winterwear appropriately as the Ladakh temperature in winters can go up to -30 degree Celsius.
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In this article, you’ll read how migration has become the biggest issue for Uttarakhand. And, how the mountain women of Munsiyari are fighting against this battle through their ecotourism initiatives such as the Sarmoli Homestay Program and Maati Sangathan (women self-help group). Not only they are winning but they have also started a quiet revolution — for empowerment, employment and the environment. They are truly the SHEroes. Also, find information on how to plan a trip to Munsiyari
When the scorching summer heat starts beating down on us, we start looking for colder places to take respite from the unbearable heat. We can’t stop singing praises about how good it is to sit and relax in mountain lodges situated in lush green surroundings. The continuous supply of clean air, clear blue skies, pleasant weather and healthy fresh food, makes us forget our troubles and worries.
Mountains look stunning from a distance but remove your rose-tinted glasses, and you see a grim reality hiding behind them.
Uttarakhand became an independent state in 2000. Since then, around 3.3 million people — more than one-third of Uttarakhand’s population — have migrated from rural areas. The result: ghost villages with zero to ten inhabitants. Uttarakhand had 1,700 ghost villages, according to a 2018 report from the state Migration Commission. There are around 1,000 villages where less than 100 people reside. The flow of people has become constant in about 4000 villages of rural Uttarakhand.
Migration is one of the biggest issues of a state popularly referred to as Devbhoomi (The land of Gods). The situation became so critical that the Uttarakhand government had to form the Rural Development and Migration Commission in 2017 to examine all aspects of the problem and evolve a roadmap for developing the rural areas.
Primarily for better employment opportunities, education and medical facilities. More than 3/4th of the population of Uttarakhand is still rural and dependent on agriculture and natural resource-based employment. Both these livelihoods options are in a state of crisis because of low or no investment in making them viable. With greater integration with a marketised economy and aspiration engineered to suit market forces, rural populations migrate to cities to earn cash through menial labour. It is rural unemployment that is in crisis.
There is a famous local saying,
Pahad ka paani aur pahad ki jawani pahad mein nahi rukti
(The water and youth of mountains never stay permanently in the mountains)
I found the clues hidden in the tiny hamlets of Munsiyari, a picturesque hill station in the Pithoragarh district of Uttarakhand.
My first point of contact was Malika Virdi. Three decades ago, she left Delhi to settle in the small village of Sarmoli to empower the women of the mountains. She not only fought for their rights but also trained them to earn an alternate source of income. In 2004, the Himalayan Ark Homestay program started, where mountain people opened their homes to tourists who didn’t just come for sightseeing but wanted to become a part of their culture. From simple mountain women, they became Munsiyari’s Women of Mettle.
Despite leading a simple mountain life, they are enterprising, strong and multi-taskers managing several jobs in the same 24 hours that we have. These women grow their own food; they also knit clothes and run homestays. Their homestay programme gives travellers a glimpse into high-altitude village life. Treks and birding hikes are organised with experienced local guides. Here, you can slow down, breathe in the fresh mountain air, watch colourful butterflies and birds, and go for scenic hikes to sacred forest ponds through oak and rhododendron lined trails. You can sleep in rustic rooms in the local villagers’ homes and wake up to the view of majestic snow-capped peaks.
My favourite part of staying there was relishing the simple but delicious local Kumaoni food of my host. Saraswati Thakuni and her granddaughter, Bhanu, would cook a lavish spread – Madua ki roti (ragi known as finger millet), home-grown pahadi red rice, Bhatt ka soup (kumaoni black bean), Timur ka saag (a medicinal Himalayan plant), Bhang ki chutney (wild hemp) and many more. The food was cooked on chulha (mud stove) and served on the kitchen floor to give an authentic homestay experience and prevent the food from getting cold. Traditionally, food was served in kanse/ bronze utensils. Home Stays try and maintain that practice with visiting tourists.
While relishing Sarmoli Homestay’s hospitality, I learnt that this homestay program provides the locals’ livelihood and a unique experience to the incoming travellers. Still, it also plays an active role in the region’s sustainable development, which is highly vulnerable to climate change. Malika Virdi, the Himalayan Ark Homestay program’s founder, shared the background story –
This women-led enterprise was founded in 2004 through village Forest Commons known as Van Panchayats. Before 2004, nature-based and community centred tourism was almost a non-extractive livelihood option.
Through the focussed and dedicated approach, they incentivised conservation efforts of the Himalayan Ecosystem and included the restoration of high altitude lakes, forests and communities. As a result, Sarmoli Homestay program has become a successful template for ecotourism in Uttarakhand. Through this program, not only Munsiyari’s Women created nature-compatible livelihoods for themselves and others, but they also helped to arrest people’s out-migration from their villages. The best part is they did this despite all odds, such as illiteracy, poverty, gender inequality, and lack of finances.
Sarmoli, under the guidance of Van Panchayat Sarpanch Virdi, has become a poster child of ecotourism in Uttarakhand. The mountain women have also brought down migration to the cities by involving villagers in their work. Before the pandemic, Sarmoli homestay owners were earning at least ₹1.5 lakh a year.
And, it isn’t just the homestay program that’s empowering women. Some 7-km away from Sarmoli in a 100-year-old Darkot village, women have turned the local tradition of knitting and weaving into a livelihood opportunity. A few years back, the villagers here got Angora rabbits to rear and use under a government scheme, making it a small and cruelty-free local industry. Today, every woman in Darkot knits and sell their product through local women-run cooperative setups such as Saras and Maati Sangathan.
Besides Darkot, there are about 12-13 villages where around 50-60 women make different woollen clothing types. Instead of selling it individually, they sell it through Women Sangathan (collective), where the sale happens after quality checks. Stocks are either sold through the local cooperative market store or sent directly to the buyers in different locations. This program’s unique thing is that each product carries a unique label of its creator, and she gets the maximum profit.
I learnt a big lesson after visiting the villages of Munsiyari. If migration from mountains needs to be stopped, infrastructure development won’t be enough. Upskilling of the locals and the creation of nature-compatible livelihoods is required. Maybe Uttarakhand’s Women of Mettle can provide some inspiration.
If you’re planning to visit Munsiyari, I highly recommend staying at Sarmoli Homestays. Run by local women, these are real Uttarakhand village homestays that offer a taste of rural life. The money directly supports and empowers female entrepreneurs. And indirectly supports the environmental causes they advocate for.
Here’s a documentary video I made on Munsiyari’s Women of Mettle
Due to its low population density and remote location, it is a safe destination to visit. There have been almost no or very few cases of COVID-19 here. Plus, a chance to experience a unique community development project entirely run by local women who had no education or formal training in running a business.
By road: The total distance from Delhi to Munsiyari is roughly 580 km long and takes about 17 hours to reach if driven nonstop. However, I would highly recommend a night halt at Almora or Nainital. Buses are available to Champavat, Almora and Tanakpur from ISBT Anand Vihar, Delhi.
By train: You can take a train to Tanakpur or Kathgodam; both are approximately 200 km from Munsiyari. From here, hire a cab.
By air: You can fly to Pantnagar (336 km from Munsiyari) or Pithoragarh airports (125 km from Munsiyari) and then take a taxi.
March to June or September to October.
March to June or Sept to Oct
The edited version of this story was published in
Hindu Businessline – Munsiyari’s women of mettle
Curiosity Saves Travel: How Ecotourism Helped Stop Domestic Violence in this Indian Village
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Are you looking for offbeat places to visit in Uttarakhand for your next holiday? If yes, check out Munsiyari but remember one thing – Munsiyari is not really for everyone. There are no shopping malls, no fancy restaurants, no large markets, no five-star hotels. Even getting here is not easy. Suppose your idea of a vacation is visiting famous tourist places in Uttarakhand like Mussoorie or Nainital. In that case, this sleepy little town might disappoint you. But if you love to visit offbeat destinations and not so crowded places, then Munsiyari will suit you just fine. Surrounded by mighty snow-capped peaks and dense forest, Munsiyari offers natural beauty at its best without asking its visitors to go too remote.
Does it seem like you still want to go to Munsiyari?
Well, if that’s the case, let me share my experience of visiting this quaint tiny hamlet tucked in the hills of Kumaon.
Let’s start with its location.
VO: Munsiyari is located at a distance of 135 kilometres from Pithoragarh, 200 kilometres from Almora and about 600 kilometres from Delhi. It is considered the gateway to the Johar valley of the inner Himalayas. It sits at an ancient trade route between India and Tibet.
It is so close to Nepal and Tibet that, at times, my phone caught their network signal.
You can take different routes to reach Munsiyari. Most people travel via Nanital and Almora, which is about 620 kilometres from Delhi and easily takes around 16-18 hours to cover if driven non-stop. A night halt is a must on this arduous route.
Delhi – Ghaziabad – Amroha – Bazpur – Nainital – Almora – Binsar – Kapkot – Chaukori – Thal – Munsiyari
I took a different route as we spent a few days at our friend’s home in Champawat.
Delhi – Ghaziabad – Moradabad – Sitarganj – Tanakpur – Champawat – Pithoragarh – Thal – Munsiyari
The road was in excellent condition up to Champawat. Still, after that, it became a narrow winding road with too many hairpin bends. But I was not alone on this journey. Mighty rivers such as Kali, Ramganga and Gauri Ganga kept flowing along the route, cutting through towering lush green mountains on both sides. There were not many dhabas or toilet places on the way, so we took breaks at Pithoragarh and Thal.
Munsiyari maybe just a tiny hamlet, but there are plenty of places for sightseeing here. Ideally, a week should be enough if you are not going on any long trek.
Here are the must-visit places in Munsiyari:
Before you reach Munsiyari, you’ll come across a place that’s hard to miss and should not be missed at all. Birthi Falls is a huge waterfall located about 35 kilometres from Munsiyari on Munsiyari – Thal road. To reach the waterfall, you will have to leave your vehicle near the KMVN Tourist lodge before the village of Birthi and walk a short and easy trek. The waterfall is surrounded by thick forest and is a popular tourist spot. I took a night halt here.
Tip: Best time to visit is right after the rains – from September to October. I was told it freezes in winters.
As soon as you start nearing Munsiyari, a series of five snow-capped high mountains welcome you. The altitude of the peaks ranges from 6,334 meters (20,781 ft) to 6,904 meters (22,651 ft) and are visible from everywhere in Munsiyari. The word ‘Chuli’ here means Chulha, a cooking hearth. So Panchchuli translates as ‘Panch Chulha’. It is said that this is where the Pandavas cooked their last meal before reaching heaven and hence the name. The imposing peaks are a sight to behold and the greatest attraction of Munsiyari.
Tip: The best view is when the sun comes up from behind the peaks at the time of sunrise.
Nanda Devi Temple is dedicated to Goddess Nanda or Parvati and can be reached after an easy trek of 3 kilometres, or you can drive down. Considered one of the oldest and most important Hindu religious sites, it also provides a great view of the peaks. Built on the edge of a cliff, Nanda Devi offers a great panoramic view of the slopes and surrounding mountains. The towering Panchachulli peaks appear even closer from here. The temple area has well-manicured gardens, a small snack shop and an observation tower for obstruction-free views of the valley and Panchachuli peaks.
Tip: Sunset or sunrise is a perfect time to visit Nanda Devi Temple.
Established in 2000 by an esteemed local historian and author, Sher Singh Pangtey, Tribal Heritage Museum is a small cultural private museum. It showcases the history, culture, traditions and lifestyle of the Bhotia people, who are an ethnolinguistic group of people residing in the upper Himalayan valleys of the Kumaon and Garhwal divisions of Uttarakhand.
There are life-like images in the museum throwing light on different aspects of local life and culture like old photos, maps, coins, documents, local utensils, wooden bottles, native dresses and attires and many more.
The story of how this museum was started is as interesting as the artefacts showcased here. In the late 20th century, Dr SS Pangtey noticed that the illiterate village women were taken on a ride by the local hawkers, who would buy expensive brass and copper utensils at throwaway prices. He started collecting those utensils and other artefacts from them and single handily made this museum preserve the local culture and heritage of the region.
Khaliya Top is a mix of many things in Munsiyari. It is an easy trek, viewpoint, a camping ground, a beautiful meadow, and a sunrise point. The meadow is surrounded by snowy peaks and provides a stunning view of the majestic Panchachuli, Rajrambha, Hardeol and Nanda Kot peaks. It is a six kilometres long trail that starts from Balanti Farm and climbs gradually.
Tip: Make sure to carry loads of water and some food to munch. Start as early as possible.
Thamrin Kund, also known as Thamri Tal, is another small lake located about a 3 kilometres long trail from Munsiyari. It is not much of a lake, to be honest, but more of a small pond. The trek, however, is a very scenic one and is worth trying if you had the time. The small lake and the nearby areas are also famous as a natural habitat of Musk deer which can be of interest to wildlife enthusiasts. I was low on time so, I didn’t do the trek.
Tip: If possible, visit it during Sep-oct or May-June for better views.
Saras market is a local women-led Sangathan that sells woollen products, herbs, agricultural products and souvenir items made by the local mountain women from around 10-12 villages. Each product carries the MRP and the name of the person who has made it.
And, if you want to see how those woollies are made, then a quick trip to Darkot is a must. As you enter this tiny hamlet, idyllically situated on Market road, about 6 km from Munsiyari, you are welcomed by a large yellow gate and a long flight of steps descending into the bowels of the mountain.
Handwoven Angora rabbit woollens and pashmina shawls are the specialities of this village. Almost the entire village is engaged in this trade.
Despite spending a week in Munsiyari, I felt it was too little. And, I will return to ski or trek, for which it is renowned.
Kumaun Vikas Mandal’s Guest House was the first hotel I checked into but found it below average for its service, facilities and even views. That’s why I shifted to Hotel Bala Paradise, which was not only cheaper than the KMVN guest house but had better amenities and a more welcoming staff.
Other good places to stay are Hotel Milam Inn and Ark Homestays at Sarmoli Village.
Munsiyari is relatively small in size, and the accommodations are limited, so please book in advance, especially during the long weekends or holiday season.
Munsiyari looks pretty in every season, but if you crave clear skies and pleasant sunny days with cooler nights, then the months of March-June and mid-September-October are perfect for visiting Munsiyari. This is also an ideal period for trekking in the nearby mountains.
So, what’s your verdict – should you go to Munsiyari or not? Are there any other offbeat places in Uttarakhand that you would recommend to visit?
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Looking to explore Incredible India but want to avoid crowded tourist destinations? Choose the vibrant state of Gujarat for its incredible heritage, handlooms, handicrafts, culture, food and wildlife. Here are the 10 best places to visit in Gujarat in 2021 and beyond.
The majority of 2020 and almost half of 2021 was spent being locked up inside our homes. Thankfully COVID cases have gone down and vaccination up. Perhaps it is safe to venture out and explore our very own backyard. One state has it all to give you a memorable trip. Gujarat. Gujarat is easy to explore and presents a potpourri of many histories, cultures, food and landscapes. While the Ahmedabad Heritage City dazzled me with its stunning architecture and ancient culture, it was the countryside that took my heart away with its many treasures. I am no artist, but I couldn’t help appreciating the art found in tribal Kutchi villages. And, of course, the excellent national parks that are home to some really unique wildlife, including Asiatic lions, migratory birds, and wild asses. Through this post, you’ll get to know about famous places in Gujarat. Here’s a sneak peek of what to see in Gujarat and how much I miss the state.
But before you start dreaming about “Khusboo Gujarat Ki”, let me help you with the best places to visit in Gujarat. In this post, I’ll share unexplored places to visit in Gujarat, along with famous attractions. If you are a foodie or a culturephile like me, then you’d love the festivals and food markets of Vibrant Gujarat. But first, let me tell you some good news.
In January 2021, Gujarat CM Vijay Rupani released the new tourism policy for the state for the next five years (Jan 2021- Dec 2025). The core vision of the new policy is to develop Tourism in a responsible, inclusive and sustainable manner in Gujarat. The state will promote as well as incentivise the adoption of e-vehicles and sustainability projects. Encouraging the vision of “Vocal for Local”, the state would increase the visibility of unique products made in India and demonstrate Gujarat’s native art and culture. Moreover, the tourist-centric infrastructure will be developed in both offbeat and tourist spots in Gujarat.
Gujarat Government is working towards one key project – making the Modhera Sun Temple and the Modhera village powered by solar energy. It will be the first of its kind in India.
So, you can definitely add this heritage site to your list of the famous places to visit in 2021 and beyond. If you wonder which tourist places are open now in Gujarat, then here is a list of some of the best places to visit in Gujarat with friends, family or couples.
When somebody asks me a question about which is the coolest place in Gujarat, my answer is Kutch. The Indian version of Bolivia’s “Mirror of the Sky.” (Uyuni Salt Flats). A geographic phenomenon that takes your breath away every time you see it. The Rann of Kutch is named after the Kutch district where it is situated. The word Rann means “salt marsh”. The flat, tortoise-shaped land is a seasonal island. Except for the monsoon season, the Ranns (Greater Rann of Kutch and Little Rann of Kutch) remain as vast expanses of blinding-white salt and dried mud. The barrenness for miles is weirdly spectacular, with small oases of water bodies and shrubland attracting pink flamingos. Come the monsoon, these vast barren lands get flooded first by seawater, then by fresh river water.
Travel Tip: The best time to visit the Great Rann of Kutch is in winter (November to February) as the weather is pleasant at that time. The famous Rann Utsav takes place at Dhordo from 1st November to 20th February every year.
Also, if allowed, don’t forget to visit the tribal villages, where you’ll see some of India’s finest handicrafts and textiles dazzling with exquisite embroidery and mirror work. The region is the epicentre for Kutchi embroidery, tie and dye, leatherwork, pottery, bell metal craft and the famous Rogan painting.
Approximately 200km east of the Great Rann of Kutch lies the Little Rann of Kutch. Unlike its elder sibling, it doesn’t get as many tourists as the former. However, I highly recommend you visit it, but if for nothing, then at least for its 4953sq m Wild Ass Sanctuary. The salt mudflats of the Little Rann of Kutch is the only place on earth where the endangered Indian Wild Ass still lives. Besides the wild asses, the Sanctuary is home to 32 species of mammals, two species of desert fox, jackals, caracals, nilgais, Indian wolves, blackbucks, and striped hyenas.
The pride of Gujarat – the Gir National Park – is the last refuge of the Asiatic lions. Been a few years since I last visited this forested hilly Sanctuary. Once the restrictions are fully lifted, and the park is open for tourists, I’ll definitely visit it and enjoy the Gir Jungle Safari experience. Apart from 600 Asiatic Lions, the National Park is also home to 37 other mammal species, including spotted deer, large deer, large antelopes, four-horned antelopes, gazelles, jaguars, striped hyena, foxes, marsh Crocodiles, rarely seen leopards and more than 300 bird species.
Tip: The best time to visit Gir National Park is from 16th October to 15th June every year.
Satpura has been on my wish list for a long, and I definitely plan to visit it in 2021. Located at the height of 875 metres above sea level and nestled in the Sahyadris, Saputara is the only hill station of Gujarat. The surprising thing is that it is hardly known outside of the state. By seeing the pictures of Saputara, I have fallen in love with it and can’t wait to explore it soon. Imagine lush green forests, rolling green hills, gurgling waterfalls, serpentine mountain roads, livid landscapes and plenty of charming hideouts to spend time with your loved ones or even with oneself; the town is definitely worth a visit. The focal point of this hill station is its lake, which has several recreational activities, including boating.
Tip: Satpura looks highly gorgeous in monsoon but the best time to visit Saputara is between October to February. Make sure you carry a jacket as the temperature can dip to as low as 8 degrees Celsius.
The unmatched architectural legacy of the 11th–century Sun Temple of the Solanki dynasty at Modhera in northwest Gujarat can make even the non-architecture lovers fall in love with this architectural majesty. The sacred and stunning Sun Temple is a declared monument of national importance and a living testimony of the golden era of the Solanki dynasty. The exterior is intricately carved with mythological stories of demons and deities. You have to walk through a pillared pavilion to reach the main hall and shrine. It is quite a miracle that centuries of invasions and climatic weathering have not diminished the temple’s astounding grandeur.
This UNESCO World Heritage Site will be adding one more feather to its cap – the Sun Temple and the Modhera village will get 24X7 solar power.
Located on the banks of the Saraswati River, Rani ki Vav or the Queen’s stepwell at Patan is one of the oldest and finest stepwells in Gujarat and is very well preserved. The seven-story structure is designed in the form of an inverted temple, and the levels are lined with carved pillars and more than 800 sculptures. It showcases superior craftsmanship of the era and the unique Maru-Gurjara architectural style and houses sculptures similar to the Sun temple at Modhera and the Vimalavasahi temple in Mount Abu. The stepwell has been listed as one of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites since 2014.
Note: You can book tickets using https://asi.payumoney.com/
Tip: If allowed, visit the nearby 11th-century village of Salvivad to meet the master weavers of “Double Ikat.”
A UNESCO World Heritage site of Champaner is often explored with Pavagadh, which unfortunately I couldn’t cover last time due to paucity of time. Pavagadh stands atop a hill overlooking Champaner at its base. The duo makes a rich heritage site lined with forts, monuments, mosques, tombs, temples, stepwells and fortresses from the 8th to 14th century. The Islamic-Mughal city of Champaner seems frozen in time, offering a wholesome architectural taste of that era. Juxtaposed to this is the Kalika Mata Temple on Pavagadh Hill, where thousands congregate during Navratri.
Since its inauguration, the world’s tallest Statue – Statue of Unity – has been the talk of the town. It recently crossed the landmark of 50 lakh visitors. While star attraction still remains the Statue itself, the area around the iconic Statue is further developed to add more attractions in its portfolio, such as the seaplane service from Ahmedabad to Kevadia, River Rafting on River Narmada, and Night Trekking in the wooded environs of Kevadia. Last year, PM Narendra Modi inaugurated Arogya Van (‘health forest’ with a wide range of medicinal plants), Children Nutrition Park (world’s first technology-driven theme park developed to make children understand the importance of nutritious food), and Ekta Mall (to buy handloom and handicraft products from various states)
I would really love to see these new attractions around the Statue of Unity soon.
Tip: Don’t forget to visit the Cactus Garden with 6 lacs plants of 450 species.
When somebody asks me which is the most beautiful city in Gujarat, I say Ahmedabad. The capital of Gujarat is India’s first UNESCO World Heritage city with 2700 listed UNESCO buildings. I really loved the town for its centuries-old heritage, culture and superb food scene. Once it’s safe to travel freely, I highly recommend doing the Heritage Walk in Ahmedabad to showcase some of the most exquisite Hindu and Jain temples standing along with the finest Islamic monuments. The carved wooden houses are another architectural marvel in the heritage city.
Route: The Ahmedabad Heritage City walk starts daily from Kalupur Swaminarayan Temple at 07:45 am and culminates at Jumma Masjid at 10.30 am. For more updates or booking, visit https://heritagewalkahmedabad.com/
And, if you are a foodie or want to see Ahmedabad’s version of nightlife, you just can’t miss Manek Chowk. Located in the heart of the old city of Ahmedabad with iconic structures all around, it will surely satiate all your tastebuds. In less than Rs 200, you’ll have a full stomach. Interestingly, the market is a vegetable hub in the morning, a bullion market at noon and a street food hotspot at night.
Gujarat and Gandhi are inseparable, and your trip to Gujarat will be incomplete without visiting Dandi Kutir – India’s largest & only museum dedicated to the life and teachings of the father of the nation – Mahatma Gandhi. This is the historical place where Gandhi started the Satyagraha Movement. The museum showcases snippets from India’s freedom movement and captures other significant milestones from Gandhi’s life.
Besides the above places, you could also visit Bet Dwarka, ‘the City of Lord Krishna’ for its Dwarkadhish temple, Souvenir hunting, boating, marine life, sea excursions, camping and picnics. Besides that, Vadodara is an excellent place to visit street food and Navratri celebrations (if allowed this year), and Rajkot for the Jubliee garden.
So, these are my 10 must-visit places in Gujarat in 2021 and beyond. Needless to say, there are many more incredible tourist attractions in Gujarat. Still, these places are safe and good enough to give you a real taste of khusboo Gujarat ki (fragrance of Gujarat). Whether you are looking for places to visit in Gujarat for 7 days, 4 days or a 2-days weekend trip, there’s a lot here to keep you busy. So, ready to book your tickets?
Looking for more inspiration, read these:
10 must-visit places in Gujarat during winters
What happens during Navratri in Gujarat
The best time to visit Gujarat is when the temperature averages between 25 to 35 degrees Celsius from October to March. However, bear in mind that during this period you can expect more tourists at popular hotspots.
You can fly to Ahmedabad, Vadodara, Bhavnagar or any other operational airport to reach Gujarat. Alternatively, you can also arrive using trains (check train availability and schedule on the IRCTC website before booking.), or you can simply travel to Gujarat by road.
Is Gujarat Open for Tourists in 2021? Yes, it is. However, the state Government is following specific COVID protocols to avoid the second wave like situation.
For more information, check out: COVID State-wise Status & COVID Information Portal, Gujarat.
Are you looking for the best hangout places in Delhi? Visit Dilli Haat, INA, where the culture, crafts and cuisine of all 29 states of India come under one roof. Attend unique events such as Aadi Mahotsav to buy rare handicrafts and try out unusual dishes like Red Ant Chutney.
Rameshwar Munda is an award-winning artist and flag bearer of Saura art from Odisha’s Munda tribe in India’s eastern state. The life of Munda is all about painting and travelling to showcase the rare art forms – Palm leaf Carving, Saura art and Patachitra. These art forms have been practised long before the discovery of the pen. In his entire life, he never encountered a situation where he couldn’t travel to present his art or even teach his students in his village. But 2020 was a challenging year not just for Munda but thousands and thousands of tribal artists who get their livelihood by selling their handicrafts. The pandemic has hit artisans quite adversely.
But things are looking to change now. The first big national tribal festival – Aadi Mahotsav – was organised at Dilli Haat, INA, after the pandemic. Through festivals like these, tribal artists get access to large markets where they can sell their goods, earn their livelihood and live well. The sale they get here sustains them for a whole year, and it’s heart-warming to see their enthusiasm. So, if you want to spend an action-packed day with your friends, family or someone else, do drop in at Dilli Haat, one of the best hangout places in Delhi. But first, let me share more about Aadi Mahotsav and Dilli Haat.
In 2020, our Prime Minister Narendra Modi led government gave many slogans such as
#Vocal4Local, #EkBharatShresthaBharat, #AatmanirbharBharat #DekhoApnaDesh to become self-reliant economy. And Aadi Mahotsav was one such great initiative held from 1st Feb 2021 to 15th Feb 2021 at Dilli Haat, INA.
The concept of organising the National Tribal Festival titled “Aadi Mahotsav” was introduced in 2017 to showcase Tribal Art, Craft, Culture, Cuisine and Commerce holistically. These events provide an excellent opportunity for tribal artisans to interact directly with art and craft buyers while getting their feedback about their taste and preferences. This direct interaction helps them aesthetically improve their product designs and creations. Over 1000 artisans and artists came together to set up around 200 stalls in the Aadi Mohtsav 2021. The rich art and craft showcase included tribal handicrafts, paintings, jewellery, fabric, handmade soaps, woollen shawls and stoles, hand-woven cotton, silk fabrics, wool, metal craft, terracotta, bead-work and many more products from across the country.
The event also included tribal cultural performances and cuisines, which attempts to preserve tribal art and culture. Additionally, there was a delectable spread of tribal dishes, including Dal Pitha, Mahua laddoos, Telangana’s spicy biryani, Jharkhand’s Chilka roti, etc., something to please every palate.
While there was lip-smacking food from everywhere, the RED ANT CHUTNEY made by mixing red ant and green chillies from Bastar district of Chattishgarh was a clear winner. Highly rich in proteins and minerals with excellent anti-bacterial properties, the red ant chutney is consumed by tribals in Chhattisgarh and Orissa as a local remedy against cold, shortness of breath, fatigue, and other diseases. The dish even made its way to celebrity Chef Gordon Ramsey’s menu. Recently, the Odisha High Court asked the Union Ministry of AYUSH and the CSIR to take a call on a proposal to use red ant chutney to treat Covid-19 within three months.
Besides the food, there was no shortage of entertainment with enthralling live performances by tribal musicians and dancers at different breakout zones, including a tribal fashion show, fire dance, kathputli dance and regional dances from all over India.
Although Aadi Mahotsav is over, you can still visit Dilli Haat. Always buzzing with cultural events throughout the year, D to glimpse the visitors about the diversity in the celebrations in various parts of India. The events range from special seasonal festivals and events such as the prized Mango festival in the summers, Teej Festival in August, Baisakhi Festival in April, Gujarat’s Dandiya in Navratri, Diwali bazaar in October to the fun festival of Delhi-Comic Con.
One of the best hangout places in Delhi, Dilli Haat, was constructed in 1994 by the Delhi Tourism Department’s joint efforts with the Ministry of Textiles and Ministry of Tourism – Government of India. One of the rare government initiatives that have stood the test of time and become a favourite of the people – both locals and tourists. The best part is the 6-acre of land on which the complex stands was reclaimed and transformed into a plaza. As you walk inside Dilli Haat, you feel like you have entered a village haat. A village set up using thatched-roof cottages with red stone and bricks gives the area a village-haat-like atmosphere. Unlike the traditional weekly market, Dilli Haat is permanent.
You can find the crafts, culture, and cuisine of all 29 states under one roof, where you can buy rare state handicraft items at reasonable prices. Here local artisans and craftsmen can present, market and sell their handicraft items. Besides retail therapy, you are spoilt for gastronomy too at Dilli Haat, INA – there is a massive food court with counters from 20 different country states. From Rajasthan’s Gatte ki sabzi to Bengal’s Fish, you will get everything here. Not just that, you also get to experience some high energy and colourful cultural activities that happen here now and then.
Located in South Delhi, opposite the INA market, Dilli Haat is an open-air market with a vast food plaza and craft bazaar. It’s super easy to get here. You can take a metro, uber, public transport or simply drive down. The nearest metro station is INA that is connected through Delhi Metro’s yellow and pink lines. Tickets to Dilli Haat cost 30 per person for Adults, 20 per person for Children and 100 per person for Foreign Tourists. You can either buy tickets online or at the counter, near the main entrance gate.
In this article, you’ll read my honest review about Champa Gali, Saket that some claim to be one of the best hangout places in Delhi NCR. Find out whether it’s actually worth a visit or just overhyped including how Champa Gali was discovered, why it became famous, where is it located, what are the best restaurants to eat in Champa Gali and what all can you shop here.
One ‘pawri ho rahi hai’ video is enough to make Dananeer Mobeen, a 19-year old teenage influencer, an overnight internet sensation. A 24-yeard old Yashraj Mukhate made ‘Rasode me kon tha’ video to kill his boredom, but it skyrocketed his musical career. And, who can forget the controversial transformation of ‘Baba Ka Dhaba’ overnight. We live in a world where people’s careers and lives are made or broken by just one tweet or one post. But are all viral trends worth the craze they generate? Not everyone can handle overnight success. The longevity of success depends on how well you can translate online success into an offline world. And, this is where most companies and people falter. Now coming to a specific example. In the last few years, whenever I would ask people the best hangout places in Delhi NCR ‘Champa Gali’ name would come up. Suddenly a less explored, hidden, quirky alley in South Delhi was called ‘the best-kept secret of Delhi‘, ‘hidden gem of the capital’, ‘a secret Parisian corridor‘, ‘the capital’s Parisian passageway‘ and a ‘hidden treasure of cultural and culinary delight’. Having seen the rise and fall of many cool places in Delhi, I decided to determine if Champa Gali Saket is actually one of the best hangout places in Delhi NCR or just overhyped?
The not-so-little-known-anymore Champa Gali in south Delhi’s Saidulajab village near Saket is a quirky place promises to give you a fine blend of coffee, art and culture. The street is lined with cafés, restaurants, clothing stores, stationeries, home décor outlets, and shops for quirky knick-knacks. The articles on the internet say that there is no better place in the city to think, write and meet like-minded people, which I would vehemently disagree with. Those articles’ writers must be virtual travellers who would have never stepped out of their homes to see real good places. I have been to France number of times, and I don’t know how people could get the vibes of rural French streets lined with alternative cafes and shops in this little dingy lane that finishes before it starts. At best, it’s a lane with some average restaurants and stores.
Before reviewing Champa Gali in detail, let me share it’s history and claim to fame.
Champa Gali was nothing like what it looks like today. It was a vacant poultry farm (murgi farm) where people would be scared to go after dark until seven years back. In 2013, Jiten Suchede, a product designer and a hobbyist carpenter, was looking for a place where his neighbours won’t have a problem with his continuous thak thak noise. So, he got in touch with Kuldeep Singh, 52, a bus contractor and driver who owned this vacant poultry farm.
Soon Suchede was making noise not just in the day but in the evening, too, as his space turned into a jamming venue for friends and up-and-coming artists. It was soon branded, quite aptly, as Bakheda. Te product designer also doubled as a chaiwallah, running Jugmug Thela, a pop-up artisanal tea and coffee shop on a thela, quite successfully. With Jugmug Thela’s growing success, Bakheda took a backseat and eventually folded up.
Then, in 2015, on Suchede’s recommendation Blue Tokai, a café chain with an on-site roastery, moved in. It became a turning point for the place, as Blue Tokai was already an established name. The café brought many Champa plants to decorate the street, lending the street its name—Champa Gali. Soon, hipsters and curious residents started pouring in.
The credit for Champa Gali’s overnight popularity goes to Imtiaz Ali and the Instagrammers. They painted an image of it being the coolest hangout places in Delhi. Although Imtiaz Ali’s Love Aajkal II (starring Sara Ali Khan and Kartik Aryan) tanked at the box office, it soon launched a frenzy amongst Delhites to visit the cool place shown in the movie. And, rest is history, as they say.
After reading so much about Champa Gali and seeing it on the silver screen, I had high hopes, but I was disappointed. Firstly, I found the place rundown by college kids and wannabe content creators whose only purpose of visiting the street was to get Instagram-worthy pictures. No one was looking for enjoying gup-shup with some good food and music. The staff at most restaurants was rude, and the service took forever. I ordered a simple masala chai at Jugmug Thela, and it took half an hour for them to serve. Seems like they were growing tea in their backyard.
One most important thing – PLEASE DON’T CARRY A CAMERA WITH YOU. The moment they see you with a camera, thugs dressed as staff would come running at you for money. Jugmug Thella asked 20,000 INR to shoot in the alley (not even inside their cafe). A daylight robbery, and you can’t even argue with them. It’s a complete Gunda raj.
The total area is not even 200 metres long and is very poorly maintained. Avoid wearing heals as the parking lot is far away, and the kaccha road is uneven with potholes.
In the end all I can say is Champa Gali is definitely not one of the best hangout places in Delhi NCR. I feel there are better places with better restaurants and cordial staff. Avoid this place, if you can. Don’t fall for hearsay.
Here’s a video detailing my experience at Champa Gali.
Have you been to this place or any other place that didn’t live up to the hype? I would love to know more about it in the comments section below.
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In this post you’ll read why Sunder Nursery is the best place to hangout with friends or family over a weekend. Also, know more about its history, incredible sustainable development story, and everything you need to know before planning a visit to this 90-acre heritage park of Delhi.
One positive change that pandemic brought in me was that instead of socialising at indoor restaurants, bars, cinema halls or other enclosed spaces, I started hanging out at outdoor places near me. Thankfully, Delhi has many open spaces and public parks such as Lodhi Garden, Nehru Park, Deer Park, and many more. Despite visiting the adjoining Humayun Tomb in Nizamuddin several times, I had remained mainly unaware about Delhi’s biggest secret – Sunder Nursery – that is touted as Delhi’s Central Park. Its revival story is as remarkable as its five centuries-old histories. Thanks to the incredible sustainable restoration work done by The Aga Khan Trust for Culture (AKTC) in collaboration with the CPWD and SDMC, this urban oasis has risen from ruins to become the green lungs of Delhi. A decade of painstaking restoration work has resulted in a 90-acre biodiversity park dotted with 20 historical monuments, 300 tree species, 80 bird species, 40 butterfly species, two amphitheatres, a bonsai enclosure, a peafowl zone and plenty more.
In this blog post, I’ll share why Sunder Nursery Delhi is a perfect template for sustainable development of a city while taking care of the environmental and heritage. Find out why it is a must-visit park for families, friends, couples, fitness enthusiasts, social media influencers, nature and photography lovers. But first, let’s turn the history pages and understand why and how Sunder Nursery was established.
A site of three Delhi Durbars (Mughals, British and Indian), Sunder Nursery was used and abused by all for five centuries. Built by the Mughals in the 16th century, the park was initially known as Azim Bagh. But as the power changed hands in Delhi, so did the name and purpose of Azim Bagh.
The area lay in a sorry state until the British decided to shift their capital from Calcutta to Delhi in 1911. Alick Percy Lancaster, the last British horticulturist in India, revived the Sunder Nursery in Delhi, to experiment with the imported trees that would later be planted along New Delhi’s avenues. That’s how it got designated as a ‘Nursery’. The “Sunder” part of the name comes from the ‘Sunder Burj’ tomb located on the same premises.
In the 1940s, the Central Public Works Department (CPWD) acquired the nursery and continued to use it for field trials of different plants and tree species. After Lying in disrepair for decades, in 2007 Agha Khan Trust started the ten years of extensive restoration work. Sunder Nursery, now a heritage park, was opened for people to visit in 2018. Till date the restoration work is ongoing, and every year a few finishing touches are added.
The park is a great case study of the miraculous transformation of a barren dumping ground to Delhi’s new landscaping wonder and heritage park. In 2008 it earned a spot on Time magazine’s top-100 places to visit. And, started winning international awards including the 2020 UNESCO Asia-Pacific Award for Cultural Heritage Conservation and 2020 UNESCO Special Recognition for Sustainable Development.
There are 20 historical monuments (more than double of Lodhi Garden). Six UNESCO World Heritage sites are a part of this historical complex – the Sunder Burj, Lakkarwala Burj, Sunderwala Mahal, Mirza Muzaffar Hussain’s Tomb, Batashewala Mahal and an unknown Mughal Tomb.
Almost 100 meters away from the main entry stands Sunder Burj, a 16th-century tomb with star-shaped patterns on the roof and intricate inscriptions on its walls.
On the other side of Sunder Burj lies the 500-meter-long water canal (similar to the Taj Mahal at Agra). This Persian style Central Vista of the park is adorned with full Mughal regalia – ten handcrafted lotus-shaped marble fountains, gorgeous star-shaped flowerbeds, and sandstone benches.
Walk farther down, and you’ll come face-to-face with a large 17th century Mughal Lotus pond and another magnificent red sandstone monument – Lakkarwala Burj. The 16th-century monument is surrounded by a rose garden, home to 30 varieties of gorgeous flowers assembled from different parts of the world.
Besides the above monuments, there are many more in the area such as Sunderwala Mahal, Mirza Muzaffar Hussain’s Tomb, and Batashewala Mahal. The last one is in a dilapidated stage, and very few visitors venture on this side of the park, but it is very calm and an excellent place for birding, especially during morning or evening hours.
While heritage monuments lie scattered in the Sunder Nursery, it also showcases a rich collection of tropical flora and fauna. Home to over 300 species of trees, Sunder Nursery, is Delhi’s first arboretum with some rare trees such as a Pink Cedar, the only one in Delhi. Additionally, the garden has 20,000 saplings, 4,200 trees and 20 acres of nursery beds. As a result, 40 butterfly species and 80 bird species have made this their new home.
Sunder Nursery has become a go-to place for families, friends, botany enthusiasts, bird watchers to social media influencers. Indeed it has emerged as Delhi’s paradise after the pandemic. You can do a lot – from strolling around the beautifully manicured parks to playing frisbee on soft carpet grass. You can even cycle or walk your dogs on the designated trails. The sprawling gardens are perfect for practising your lockdown yoga routines or merely lying down with a book. You can admire the Mughal-era tombs and picnic around the romantic lakes and monuments. Nature lovers can purchase plants from thriving government-run nursery or buy products from its weekend organic market. Weekend markets at Sunder Nursery offer everything from seasonal produce to artisanal products.
Being a photographer, I love Sunder Nursery for the photography opportunities it provides. I could capture the vivid colours and minutest details of lakes, water bodies, monuments, birds, different landscapes and portraits with my Panasonic Lumix S5 camera.
The location of Sundar Nursery is adjacent to Humayun Tomb and Nizamuddin Basti. Therefore reaching here is very convenient as the transportation facility is available from every corner of Delhi. If you are coming by your conveyance, then don’t worry about the parking. There’s enough paid parking on both sides of the park. If you are using the metro, then the nearest metro stations to sunder Nursery is Jawahar Lal Nehru Stadium metro station (violet line) and Indraprastha Metro station (pink line).
April – September: 7am to 7pm (last entry at 6.30 pm)
October – March: 7am to 6pm (last entry at 5.30 pm)
For Indian/ SAARC visitors – Rs. 35
For Foreign Tourists – Rs. 100
For Children between the ages of 5-12 years – Rs.15
For Senior Citizens, above the age of 60 years – Rs.15
Children under 5 years – Free Entry
Physically Challenged Visitors – Free Entry
The wheelchair is also available in case anyone needs it, which is free of cost.
While I highly recommend carrying your picnic baskets, there are enough options to buy food. You can choose the healthy food options at Fab Cafe, the Fabindia chain’s offering built around the concept of conscious eating, with no refined sugars or oils. You can either sit and eat in the café or carry an eco-friendly meal to sit and enjoy anywhere in the massive park. Fab Café is definitely among the best outdoor cafes in Delhi for brunch, if not among the best food places in Delhi.
There are also food kiosks or weekend organic markets where you can buy snacks, drinks or freshly prepared food items.
You can spend some time in the adjoining Humayun Tomb or enjoy a Thursday Qawwali session at nearby Hazrat Nizamuddin Aulia Dargah. If you have more time in hand, visit Millennium Park Delhi, National Zoological Park, Purana Qila, National Science Centre, National Handicrafts and Handlooms Museum, National Gallery of Modern Art, Rashtrapati Bhawan or India Gate.
Have you visited the Sunder Nursery? If you have or planning to, please share your experiences with us in the comment section below.
When I had planned a two-week-long wildlife jungle safari trip to Madhya Pradesh, I was most excited for Bandhavgarh National Park due to high chances of Tiger sighting there. But my friend, Amit, told me that out of the three national parks (Bandhavgarh, Kanha and Pench) I’ll probably like Kanha Tiger Reserve the most. And boy, was he right!
I can’t tell you how stunning Kanha is. Home to over 1,000 species of plants and about 350 species of birds, Kanha is one the best managed and largest national parks not just in Madhya Pradesh but perhaps in the whole of India. Spread over an area of approximately 2000 sq km it is primarily a moist Sal forest and is dotted with dense groves of vegetation, hillocks and meadows. Of all these habitats, Kanha National Park is famous for its vast meadows that are its lifeline. They sustain a large population of Spotted Deer, Sambar, Barasingha and Gaur, which in turn support predators and co-predators such as Tigers, Leopards, Wild Dogs, Jungle Cats and Foxes.
Kanha Tiger Reserve’s biggest achievement has been the preservation of Barasingha (Hard Ground Swamp Deer) from near extinction. From being just 66 in 1970, today they number more than 800 and are the only surviving population of Barasingha in the wild. For me, sighting “the jewel of Kanha” was far more unforgettable than tiger sighting. The state animal of Madhya Pradesh recently became the park’s mascot, in the form of the character Boorsingh, the Barasingha.
Most people come here in search of Royal Bengal Tigers, but leave having spotted so much more, from rare deer to colossal bison. Here you can really venture deep into the forest for a complete safari experience.
As per recent surveys, Kanha’s sal forests and meadows contain a growing population of around 125 tigers. There are also about 100 leopards and vast populations of deer and antelopes, including southern swamp deer (Barasingha) which exist nowhere else in the world. You’ll see plenty of langurs, Indian bison, wild boars and jackals. Over 260 bird species have been recorded here.
I took two jungle Safaris with my Naturalist Ashu Khan, and every time the jungle seemed so different. The park’s scenery changes dramatically. Swaying sal trees, quiet streams, muddy swamps, bamboo thickets—the landscape unfurls like nature’s own drawing book.
The crisp morning air, the misty earth fragrance, the cold breeze, the sights and sounds of wild animals and birds was the best melody one can hear in the morning hours. On top of that, over two days I had seen plenty to send me chuffed – a parade of barasingha antlers in motion at the crack of dawn, blackbuck grazing in the distance, monkeys and wild boars running from pillar to post, jackals frolicking on the muddy pathways, White-rumped Shama humming melodiously and a family of bison munching on tender leaves was a sight to behold.
Kanha is genuinely mesmerising for all your senses and is one of the richest forests in terms of biodiversity. No wonder termite colonies are the largest in Kanha – almost the size of small hillocks. My forest-encyclopedic Naturalist, Ashu Khan, told me that Termites act as Environmental Bioindicators of the health of a forest and their mounds provide vital clues about the ecology of the region. They are indeed the architects of change.
Besides the wildlife, the park has a mythological connect too – Shravan Tal – a pond immortalised in Ramayana. It’s the spot where King Dashratha (father of Lord Rama) mistakenly killed Shravan (a devoted son of blind parents). Today, its a great place for birdwatching.
Here’s a video showing my experience at Kanha Eco Lodge and Kanha Tiger Reserve.
Located in the heart of India, reaching Kanha National Park takes time and, usually, various modes of transport are available. You can either take a train to Jabalpur (170km away), or fly to the airports at Jabalpur, Raipur or Nagpur, but a road trip will always be there.
You can go for a safari in four zones, of which Kisli and Mukki zones are considered best for tiger sightings, followed by Kanha and Sarhi zones.
Up to 140 four-wheel drive, open Jeeps (mostly Maruti Suzuki Gypsies) are allowed into the reserve per day. Each gipsy is permitted to carry six people along with a driver /naturalist and a guide assigned by the park. You can book your jungle safari online https://forest.mponline.gov.in, up to 120 days in advance. Tickets for 15 4WDs per day can also be purchased in person at the park gates between 6.30 pm to 7.30 pm for the next morning, and 11 am to noon for the same afternoon. But queues can start as early as the previous evening. To avoid any last-minute surprises I booked in advance through my trip organiser – Pugdundee Safaris. Try and book as early as possible, because popular zones sell out months ahead.
No one can predict what you’ll see in each safari but to get a holistic experience of the park, take at least 3-4 safaris. There are two safari slots every day: morning (6 am to 11 am) and afternoon (approximately 3 pm to 6 pm). Morning safaris are longer and tend to produce ore tiger sightings.
April and May is the best time for tiger spotting, but soaring temperatures make this time of year too hot to handle for many. November to March offers balmy temperatures and a lusher landscape.
While there is no shortage of good resorts and hotels in the vicinity of Kanha National Park, I would highly recommend staying at Kanha Earth Lodge. Located in the fringe of the buffer-zone you feel like you are staying in the greater forest ecosystem and most importantly, its eco-friendly architecture reflects the local landscape and tribal culture. Please read more details about my stay at Kanha Earth Lodge here.
If you have some spare time between jungle safaris and unwinding at your lodge, Kanha Museum is worth a visit. You can learn about the park’s background and landscape with information on the indigenous tribal people who once lived here, but were moved out when the area was made a tiger reserve. In case you are interested in more, there are two other museums located nearby at Mandla – Rani Durgawati Museum and Archeological Museum.
To make the best of your trip, I would highly recommend including the more accessible Bandhavgarh and Pench National Parks. Not only do they reduce journey times but also provide a range of contrasting park experiences.
Kanha Tiger Reserve is one of the best wildlife sanctuaries in India, and I would highly recommend you see. Have you visited the land of Tigers that saved Barasignha from extinction? Have you have visited this park or planning to visit soon? Please share your experiences with us in the comment section below.
Pugdundee Safaris invited me to experience their lodges after COVID19. However, all the views expressed above are my own and based on my personal experiences. Pictures were either shot by Nakul Sharma or me. Please do not copy anything without written permission.
“Perhaps you may not have seen me but please don’t be disappointed, I have seen you.”
This is the goodbye message from Sher Khan you see when you exit the Bandhavgarh National Park (BNP). Sprawling across 1536 km sq. area (including Panpatha Sanctuary and Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve) in the Umaria District of Madhya Pradesh, this park is the ultimate address for wildlife enthusiasts as well as nature lovers. Home to about 22 species of mammals, 250 species of birds, and 300 species of flora, the main attraction of Bandhavgarh National Park still remain the Royal Bengal Tigers. There’s a saying about the park that goes:
“In any other Park, you are lucky if you see a tiger. In Bandhavgarh, you are unlucky if you don’t see (at least) one.”
But it’s not a thumb rule any more. Let me share my experience Bandhavgarh National Park experience and all the information you need to plan a successful Jungle Safari trip to this natural treasure trove.
While there’s no guarantee that you’ll see Royal Bengal Tigers during your Jungle Safari, but the past sightings data suggest that Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve is one of the best places to spot tigers, Simply, because of the high density of tigers in a small area as compared to other national parks, the tiger census report released in June 2019 recognises Madhya Pradesh as the state with the highest tiger population (526). No wonder it is called the ‘Tiger State of India’. On top of that, the park also has the largest breeding population of leopards and various species of deer.
And, the credit for this healthy density of the predator and prey goes to the Forest department’s conservation efforts and park’s diverse vegetation and immense natural wealth. Hemmed with mountains, tall grasslands, thick Sal forest, gurgling streams, many ancient caves and lakes; the park is home to the majestic Royal Bengal Tigers and some rarely seen animals like leopard and sloth bear. Along with them, you can also see herds of spotted deer, samba, Langur and Red-Faced Monkeys, Jungle Cats, Bengal Fox, Mongoose, Striped Hyena, Asiatic Jackal, Wild Boars, Nilgai, Chinkara, Indian Bison and nowadays, even the herd of elephants.
Thanks to lush vegetation, the park is heaven for ornithophiles. Even if you are a greenhorn like me, your naturalist will help you spot birds such as Greater Racketail Drongo, Red-wattled Lapwing, Brown-headed Barbet, and Indian roller, among many others.
Once the private hunting ground of the Maharaja of Rewa, Bandhavgarh was declared a national park in 1968 covering a core forest area of 105 sq. km. Since then the tiger reserve has swelled to the current size of 1,536 sq. km (core area – 716 sq. km, buffer area – 820 sq. km). The park is also known as the ‘White Tiger Country’ for Maharaja Martand Singh of Rewa captured the first white Tiger here in 1951.
But the history of Bandhavgarh is far ancient than the erstwhile kingdoms. Apart from the rich wildlife and lush vegetation, the fascinating part in the Bandhavgarh vicinity is the old Bandhavgarh Fort that dominates the park’s skyline. Spread across an area of 582 acres at an elevation of 811 meters above the sea level, this impressive fort is 2000-year-old. And, is said to be the oldest fort in India. As per the legend, Lord Rama built Bandhavgarh fort and gifted it to his brother Lakshmana. Hence the name “Bandhavgarh” (‘Bandhav’ means brother and ‘Garh’ is the fort).
But in the recent era, Bandhavgarh became famous as the “Land of Sita and Charger”. In the 1990s, this was the address of the legendary tiger pair of the country — Sita and Charger. Perhaps the most photographed tiger pair of the park, they had a significant role to play in the success story of tiger conservation here. Today almost all the tigers that you see in the park are their progenies. Charger, as my experienced naturalist, Choubey Jee, recalls, owed his name to his charging behaviour towards tourist jeeps but he never harmed anyone. Even today, the tiger reserve basks in the glory of this legendary pair.
Here’s the detailed breakdown of my Bandhavgarh National Park Safari experience.
Taking a flight from New Delhi, I arrived at Jabalpur in the afternoon. Post a quick lunch break at Coffee Home in Jabalpur, and few pitstops midway, I reached Kings Lodge Bandhavgarh around 6:30 pm. The whole staff was waiting for my welcome at the entrance with folded hands and warm smiles behind the safety masks. After quick thermal scanning and sanitisation; my contactless check-in happened in no time. Post which, I was debriefed in detail about the region, property and my upcoming jungle adventures by the very generous Lodge Manager, Amit Mukherjee.
After debriefing, I was escorted to my stilted cottage. My first impression was like I was staying in a wilderness retreat nestled in a large natural forested estate of 35 acres, where 95% of the land is forested. After all, Kings Lodge is an eco-lodge with just ten cottage rooms and eight stilt cottage rooms with en-suite modern bathrooms. The best part is that not even a single tree fell during the construction of the lodge.
Moreover, the construction is done keeping in mind the local landscape and architecture. Eco-friendly materials such as ‘Kavelu’ red ceramic roof tiles, Bandhavgarh sandstone, refurbished furniture (built from the wood procured during railway sleeper auctions), and natural colours fusing with the forest scene are used.
The interiors and furnishings reflect the local art and culture of the region. The rooms are well light, airy and 15-18 feet in height that keeps them cooler naturally, thus saving electricity. Single used plastic is replaced with a stainless steel water bottle and organic toiletries in eco-friendly glass-steel containers.
I was little tired from my full day of travel, so I wrapped up the day early after having mouth-watering starters such as Hara Bhara Kabab, Bhel-Tikki, minestrone soup and flavourful dinner made from the freshest ingredients.
Waking up at 4:30 am, I was ready for my maiden Jungle Safari at Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve. The park gates opened at 6:00 am and off we went vrooming with my in-house naturalist, Mohan Chandra Joshi, and Ramnath Yadav, a guide allocated to us by the park. Before our jeep entered the park, it was thoroughly sanitised and even passed through a sanitisation liquid pool meant for disinfecting the tyres.
As we entered, the mist-shrouded park woke up from slumber and the golden rays began turning everything into gold – the hillocks, meadows, trees, water bodies and wildlife. The imposing Bandhavgarh Fort stood majestically in the park, and we waited for a while to ogle at its timeless beauty before continuing our search for the queen of Tala region – Spotty – and her cubs. As we drove around, the golden rays kept peeping from the lush branches of the Sal trees. We saw many langurs and red-faced monkeys, three stripper palm squirrel, spotted deer, wild boars, sambhars and barking deer.
For close to three hours we kept following the Tiger footmarks of Spotty, Kajri and Trident – the famous trio tigers of Tala region of Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve- at their favourite spots. Still, probably they weren’t in a mood to oblige us. So, we opted for the next best thing – breakfast. A fully-loaded breakfast consisting of boiled eggs, kathi rolls, bonda, paranthas, brownies along with tea-coffee was served at the breakfast point. I took this opportunity to know more about the park and Tiger’s importance in the lives of the locals from extraordinarily knowledgeable, Mohan Chandra Joshi.
Hailing from another great national Park of India – Jim Corbett, Mohan is an encyclopaedia of wildlife and super passionate about his work. His eyes glow like a diamond when he starts talking about his first love,
Tiger is like God to me. In Bandhavgarh region, Tigers are known as Bandhwadheesh or Bageshwar, which essentially means protectors of the locals.
When I probed him why not everyone sees a Tiger despite Bandhavgarh having the highest density of the Tigers in India, he calmly replied,
If you drive for 8km anywhere in the park, you’ll enter into a new tiger’s territory. But not everyone gets to see them because they are very territorial and don’t let any other tiger enter their territory. They are solitary nocturnal creatures who hunt in the night or during early hours of the day. So, when they are not hunting, they would just be relaxing in tall grasses or deep forests.
He further added that our chances to spot them increases in summers as Tigers are very heat sensitive and they usually come around water holes. If you do 4-5 safaris in your trip, you have high chances of tiger sighting. Since in October forest is brimming with water streams and lush vegetation, the Tigers prefer to stay away from the peering eyes of visitors like us. I found it incredibly endearing that despite spending over a decade in the forests Mohan still dances like a kid in the jeep when he sees a tiger. That explains how much his heart beats for this magnificent predator and its conservation.
After a hearty breakfast, we tried our luck again to spot the elusive Spotty. Still, we didn’t get disheartened when we couldn’t locate her as Mohan kept us engaged with other wildlife creatures. We spotted giant wood spiders, greater racketail drongo, red-wattled lapwing, brown-headed barbet, Indian roller, common peafowl, red jungle fowl, crested serpent eagles, parakeet, king-fisher, and jackals.
Besides he took us to a 10th-century holy point in the forest – Shesh Shaya – where the statue of “Lord Vishnu” along with “The Shivling” and “The Brahma” are situated. The origin of the River “Charan Ganga” is also from the foot of “Lord Vishnu”. Twice a year almost 50,000 locals walk barefoot to this place and Ram-Sita temple in the Bandhavgarh fort.
As we descended, we saw many natural caves and a climber point from where you could see the panoramic view of the forest. Around 11 am, we left the park to try our luck next time.
The rest of the day was spent relaxing at the lodge and taking nature walks around the property. And, of course, the yummy meals in the dining hall and company of great books in the nature-library. It was here I found out that Pugdundee Safaris as a policy employs 70% of their staff from local villages. All of them are well-groomed and within a short span, take important offices in the lodge. During regular times, cultural performances are held every night to introduce the guests with the local culture of the region. Unfortunately, due to COVID19, I couldn’t enjoy the same. But there’s always the next time. At least I got to enjoy the local delicacies.
The day started with a surprise – multi-cuisine breakfast in the kitchen garden of the property. Besides Amit and Mohan, many colourful butterflies joined us for the morning rendezvous.
Post lunch, Balwant Negi – a naturalist with Treehouse Hideaway – came to pick us up for our next destination.
Ashish Tirkey, the lanky Lodge Manager at the property, ensured that everything was in place before I arrived. Following the set safety protocols as prescribed by the Ministry of Home Affairs, I was checked-in to my sprawling Treehouse built on a Mahua Tree. It was my first time staying in such a unique accommodation, and I can’t recommend enough why it’s a must-try.
Not only treehouses are worth staying because of their unique design, but they also have a sustainable edge over traditional hotels. Not even a single tree was cut to build treehouses. On the contrary, they planted more trees. Pugdundee Safaris calls their treehouses the “Tree House Hideaway” for a good reason – visitors are almost entirely exposed to the vast wilderness right outside of their room. It features only five tree houses on a 21-acre forested land.
And, it wasn’t just the exterior of the Treehouse that I fell in love with, I was thoroughly impressed by the interiors too. The contemporary rustic design of the room was beautifully matched with traditional earthy tones and eco-materials harmoniously blending with nature. Most importantly, all Treehouses were built by local staff using regularised wood, native craft knowledge and traditional expertise.
I was back in the Bandhavgarh National Park to try my luck again. Although, this time, I chose to visit another zone – Magdi Zone. And, I had veterans with me – Ashley Chaturvedi lovingly called as Choubey Jee who has spent 24 years driving in the National Park and Binod Dwivedi, who has been guiding in the park for the last 27 years. We started our search from Umrah naalah – the favourite place of Dotty and her cubs – sewed with long white grass, this slightly hilly terrain has enough water to satiate their thirst.
We waited for quite some time but probably the big mama had different plans. Disappointed, we decided to explore other points in the park. But neither Spotty nor any other Tiger appeared. Dejected we left at 11 am just to learn at the exit gate that Balwant Negi, the second naturalist from Treehouse Hideaway had seen Dotty for close to 15-20 minutes. I wish we had waited for ten more minutes. But that is life! Patience rewards those who wait for it.
Ashish tried to make up for our loss by organising a Bush Dinner under the gigantic Haldu Tree (Haldina cordifolia or commonly known as yellow teak). The bushes were lit up with traditional lanterns, and the table was decorated with flowers and candles. A bonfire in the background kept us warm and a classic village style Mitti ka chulha (clay oven) our food. The ambient sound of the wild felt more melodic than any sound I’d heard before. The sky was clear, with bright stars sparkling over our heads. The flavourful ala carte meal was served lots of love and red wine. Happy, I slept like a baby that night.
Another day brought another hope to see the big cat. This time we were accompanied by not just one but two naturalists – Choubey Jee and Negi, the lucky naturalist who saw Spotty a day before. We drove around all the important spots in the Tala region – came across Dotty’s droppings and pugmarks of other Tigers and Tigresses. Heard alarm calls by macaque from two different sides of the forest but again my luck steered me to miss the most desired sight of the wild.
Nonetheless, I thoroughly enjoyed the forest and some rare species of flora and fauna. But what I most enjoyed was the great insights shared by our experienced naturalists and guides. I learnt a lot about Tigers behaviour, their current conservation challenges, the growing menace of the wild elephants and how wildlife Tourism has benefited the locals and the wildlife.
One great piece of advice that Choubey Jee gave was,
We can learn how not to be greedy from Tigers. They never hoard things and will only take as much as they want. They won’t kill any prey if they are not hungry.
Imagine what a beautiful world it would become if we start following this behaviour.
I spent the rest of the day birdwatching, taking nature walks and talking to the locals working at the Treehouse Hideaway.
While I missed seeing Sher Khan I wasn’t disheartened, the wildlife tour in Bandhavgarh National Park still fetched me some life-long memories. As Choubey jee aptly put it,
There’s a lot more to the forest than just the Royal Bengal Tigers. Enjoy the jungle. Keep Tiger as a bonus.
While I would visit in every and any season, the best time to visit Bandhavgarh national park is from April to June. The probability of tiger sightings in summer is higher because the big cats are out near waterholes in search of water. However, November to February the Park is lush green. The park remains closed from 1st July to 30th September due to monsoon. Winter temperature varies from 8-20 degrees, and the mercury rises to 46 degrees in summer.
The park is divided into three tourist zones – Tala, Magadhi and Khitauli. Tala is the central zone and remains most famous for tiger sighting. The Magadhi zone is located at the fringe of the park and is also good for tiger sighting. Khitauli zone is the latest addition that is gaining popularity fast amongst visitors and is well-known for its excellent birding experience.
Go for at least 4-5 safaris for higher success rate because no tiger sighting is guaranteed and no sighting is the same. Usually, morning safaris have a more extended period to explore – approx. 5.5 hours as compared to 3 hours in the evening. Remember to carry an identity card that’s mandatory to check before letting you inside the park.
There are many private resorts and hotels around the park. You can also book MP tourism owned White Tiger Forest Lodge, which is located on the Bandhavgarh National Park main road. However, I would highly recommend staying at either Kings Lodge or Treehouse Hideaway for the luxurious and serene wildlife experience they provide along with incomparable hospitality.
Permit and safari both can be booked from Madhya Pradesh, Forest Department website. You can either book a full vehicle or individual seats, depending on the requirement. Either your hotel can book it for you, or you can do it yourself. Separate permits are given for every zone you want to visit. Jeep Safaris booking open 120 days in advance and can be pre-booked online. They get sold very quickly, so suggest you book early. Along with advance payment copies of Photo ID (Driving licence, Aadhar card, PAN card, voter ID or passport) are required to secure your safaris.
Flights: The price for Delhi- Jabalpur is approximately between INR. 4500-9000 per Person and INR. 4000-8000 Per Person for Nagpur -Delhi sector
Accommodation:
02 Nights at Kings Lodge AC Cottage: BAR (best available rate) of INR 14000 per night for double occupancy for Weekdays and INR 16000 per night for Weekends.
02 Nights at Treehouse Hideaway: bar rates of INR 16000 per night for double occupancy for Weekdays and INR 18000 for Weekends
Jeep safaris: INR 9500 per Jeep per trip
Food and local road transportation: Approx. INR 20,000
5-6 days are good enough to enjoy the park and wilderness.
Day 1 – Arrive at Bandhavgarh
Day 2-4 – Morning or/and evening safaris with nature walks and bush dinners at the lodge
Day 5 – Keep an extra day to unwind or go for a jungle safari
Day 6 – Leave for another National Park or your destination
Clothes & Accessories: t-shirts, pants, shorts, swimsuit and raincoat. Please avoid dark/bright colours as neutral colours are best for safari. For walking, carry comfortable sneakers or sandals. To avoid sun have Polarised sunglasses and a wide-brimmed hat. A small day backpack to carry your water bottle, sunscreen, snacks etc.
Don’t forget to carry woollens if you are travelling in winter (November till February). Safaris start as early as 6am, and the mercury drops further inside the forest. Carry a fleece jacket or a sweater along with warm hats and gloves.
Toiletries: Sunscreen with high SPF and personal toiletries. Mosquito repellent and prescribed medication, if any (including antihistamine).
Electronic items: camera with extra batteries, chargers for your gadgets, plug adapter to charge your electronic devices, and your mobile phone with power banks.
You can either drive down to Panna National Park or Kanha National Park. I chose the latter for the park is very different from Bandhavgarh.
Bandhavgarh National Park is one of the most visited and among the best wildlife sanctuaries in India, and I would highly recommend you see. Have you been to this beautiful land of wild cats? Share your experiences with us in the comment section below if you have already visited this fantastic wildlife park or whenever you make a visit.
Pugdundee Safaris invited me to experience their lodges after COVID19. However, all the views expressed above are my own and based on my personal experiences. Pictures were either shot by me or Nakul Sharma. Please do not copy anything without written permission.
There’s no better place to experience the majesty of biodiversity in India than Wildlife Sanctuaries. Here’s my experience of visiting a few notable Indian National Parks and Tiger Reserves in Madhya Pradesh, India.
After being locked up in our homes for months, India is finally opening up, albeit with caution. While that bucket list international trip might have to wait a bit longer, the Great Indian traveller has started travelling again. Yes, domestic travel is on a rise in India and trends like staycations, workcations, revenge travel, slow travel, and road trips are topping the Google Trends. The beleaguered Indian Travel and Tourism industry is finally seeing a silver lining around a dark cloud. COVID19 has presented an opportunity for Indian travellers to discover loads of incredible and often ignored destinations closer to home. Like many others, I too was fed up of the lockdown. I started looking for the safest places to visit in India post covid19 and found many attractive options, but I settled for exploring the Wildlife Sanctuaries in India. This post and the subsequent articles will talk about my planning and experiencing wildlife tourism in India. So, without further ado, let’s begin.
One thing that I missed the most during the lockdown was nature. I was tired of working from home and was craving for some fresh air, greenery, wildlife and impromptu conversations with the strangers. I was missing the regional cuisines and cultural experiences. While video calls, webinars and virtual tours did help in bridging the gap, but there was no cure for my wanderlust. So, when the time seemed right, I jumped at the opportunity to be with nature and wildlife.
While I desperately wanted to get out of my four walls, two things were non-negotiable – safety and sustainability. In the absence of COVID19 vaccine, I didn’t want to be reckless and started looking for a destination where I knew the required safety protocols are followed. Crowded places were a big no, and maintaining social distancing was my top priority.
Secondly, COVID19 proved that if we don’t take nature seriously, it will destroy us. So, I wanted to travel responsibly, and the choice of place depended a lot on the ‘being green’ philosophy of the destination and the accommodation.
As the ‘Unlocking India’ began and states started easing out travel restrictions, a lot of options opened up for my next travel. Right from the towering Himalayan states of Himachal and Uttarakhand to coral-lined islands of Andamans, balmy beaches of Goa to sacred Shangri-La of Sikkim, opulent Havelies of Rajasthan to laid-back waters of Kerala. Nearly all major tourist destinations started vying for domestic travellers attention who were actively looking for best places to visit during Diwali or winter holiday break in India. But my heart was craving for something else.
Having been to the heart of India several times in the past, I knew there could be no better place than Madhya Pradesh as it guaranteed safety along with exceptional sightseeing opportunities. Thanks to a low population density in the state, especially around the National Parks, social distancing and taking safety precautions seemed a lot easier as compared to other tourist destinations in India that are currently flocked by travellers. On top of that, the joy of seeing the wild animals, especially the Tiger and the Barasingha, up-close in the wild is something that can’t be replicated anywhere else in India or abroad. The parks were reopening after seven months of closing. So, I was excited to see greener and lusher forests than before.
Madhya Pradesh shares border with five states and it is fairly easy to reach the state via road, air or train. The road network in the state is in top condition and perfect for a road trip. I saw people travelling from as far as Kolkata, Kanpur, Hyderabad, Mumbai, Bangalore, Pune and nearby places such as Nagpur, Jabalpur etc.
Most importantly, choosing an ecotourism holiday was the main reason for me to opt for Madhya Pradesh Wildlife Holiday. I had done enough background research to find out that Tiger Conservation helps in conservation of the environment and communities living around the park. The conservation of India’s national animal is most critical because of its role at the apex of the food chain. When you protect tigers, you save the whole ecosystem and provide a livelihood to the underprivileged people living in the periphery of the forest. Besides conserving wilderness, tiger reserves support human life by guarding fish nurseries, replenishing the agricultural land with genetic material and providing cheap, clean water for drinking and irrigation.
Moreover, Tiger reserves help in mitigating natural disasters such as floods and cyclones. Additionally, they also play a critical role in reversing the climate change impact by storing and sequestering carbon.
It was an uphill task to pick a handful of national parks out of 553 existing wildlife sanctuaries and 50 Tiger Reserves in India. After a lot of deliberation and help from Manav Khanduja of Pugdundee Safaris, I decided to spend twelve days in the wilderness of Bandhavgarh, Kanha and Pench Tiger Reserves. After all, these three reserves have played a big part in making Madhya Pradesh the ‘Tiger State’ of India.
While Tiger is a common denominator in all the three reserves their vegetation and landscape is remarkably different from each other. I was keen on seeing that contrast of landscapes and learning what they did differently that contributed to making Madhya Pradesh a front runner in the Tiger Conservation Campaign.
Choosing the right destination was just one part of the trip planning. It was equally important that I choose suitable accommodation too. And, here’s why I picked Pugdundee Safaris for my travel.
I felt like a liberated bird who got a new lease of life when she expanded her wings in the deep blue skies, flying over the thick Sal-Teak forests. The spotted deer, langurs, jackals, woodpeckers, giant spiders, leopards and tigers all felt like friends I had met after a long time. I got the most heart-touching welcome as the verdant jungle laid out its luxurious green carpet while the sweet misty forest fragrance and the perfectly orchestrated bird song melted my soul away. The three national parks – Bandhavgarh, Kanha and Pench – were so similar yet so different in their welcome.
The knowledgeable naturalists from Pugdundee Safaris and guides from the national parks further enhanced my wildlife safari experience. Their personal stories were as enchanting as the sights, sounds and smells of the woods. The food, stay, safety, amenities, safari…everything was perfect. Most importantly, it was the warmth of the Pugdundee staff that melted my heart. Whether it was the cucumber-like coolness of Harish Jee or Choubey Jee’s passion for the jungle, Ashu’s great offroading skills or Amit’s fondness for great food, Harpreet’s love for the butterflies or Mohan’s in-depth knowledge about tigers; I was left thoroughly impressed. All these people have become friends now.
I enjoyed my travels and even got time to ponder on some serious environmental issues that need our immediate attention.
In the upcoming months, I’ll share detailed individual posts on my experience at each National Park and lodge. Through a mix of experiential videos, articles and social media posts I’ll talk about the whole wildlife holiday experience including the Jungle safari, accommodation, food and safety precautions taken by the lodges, unfiltered stories from the locals and the experts, step-by-step itinerary and costs involved. So, stay tuned for updates.
In a nutshell, I can just say whether you are looking for the best places to visit in 2020 in India or warm places to visit during winter, hope this post helps in convincing you to explore the national parks and the wildlife sanctuaries in India.
After a long hiatus in tourism, almost all the famous tourist places in India started again welcoming tourists. Right from Himachal to Andamans, Goa to Sikkim, Madhya Pradesh to Kerala, nearly all major tourist destinations have launched enticing offers to woe the domestic travellers. Camping and lodging, jungle safaris and rafting, hotels and homestays are all back in business. While strict health protocols are mandatory to be followed; e-passes, COVID-19 RT-PCR Test, and compulsory quarantine are nearly gone. Domestic flight operations in the country will touch 75 per cent of the pre-Covid level this month itself.
Here’s a quick round-up about which famous tourist places in India state wise are open for tourism, and the safest places Travel See Write recommends to visit for your next holiday.
Ever since the tourism-dependent states of Goa, Himachal Pradesh, Rajasthan, and Uttarakhand started unlocking, they have been dropping travel restrictions month-on-month basis to get tourists back. Uttarakhand is even paying you to visit the state. Historical monuments such as Taj Mahal in Agra, Sun Temple in Konark, Amber Fort in Jaipur, Qutub Minar in Delhi, Hampi in Karnataka, Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh are all open for tourists. Although a cap has been put on the number of daily visitors, online booking is made simpler and strict health protocols are followed.
The state I am most excited to visit next is – Madhya Pradesh – as the National Parks and Tiger Reserves have opened up from 1st October, and some great Workcation Packages have been launched for work-from-home fatigued people like me. In fact, my next trip is to the three most famous National Parks of Central India – Bandhavgarh, Kanha and Pench.
While Maharashtra and West Bengal might not be as adventurous as Madhya Pradesh in their unlocking approach, their popular tourist destinations such as Lonavala and Darjeeling have started getting a surge of travellers. In fact, following Madhya Pradesh’s footsteps, West Bengal has opened Sundarbans, Joypur Jungle, Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary, Dooars and other forests for tourists. And, Maharashtra isn’t slacking behind to attract wildlife lovers to its Tadoba Andhari, Pench and Melghat Tiger Reserves with a new set of rules.
While Tamil Nadu has an official lockdown until 31st October, its hill stations such as Ooty, Yercaud, Kodaikanal, and Nilgiris are open, with an E-pass. The Union Territories of Puducherry and Ladakh are also open. Even the Andaman & Nicobar islands have resumed some tourist activities.
After six months of Lockdown, Kerala has decided to welcome guests again. Though major tourist hotspots will be open for visitors, beaches will remain shut till 1st November. If you are thinking to visit Kerala, do not forget to register yourself on www.covid19jagratha.kerala.nic.in. If you are planning to stay for over 7 days, you are required to either carry a COVID-19 negative certificate or undergo a COVID-19 test post entering the state.
Most of India’s eastern states such as Odisha, Sikkim, and Tripura are slowly and steadily starting to welcome tourists in October. People can visit the beaches of Puri or the temples of Konark in Odhisa. The state government has launched the ‘Odisha by Road’ campaign to urge travellers to explore the state’s tourist circuit by road.
Sikkim has opened its borders with West Bengal from 1st October and bookings for hotels, homestays and other tourism-related services have resumed from 27th September. Here’s a detailed guide on what places to visit in Sikkim.
Tripura has also reopened all tourist spots in the state from 1st October and is building infrastructure to promote tourism. A helipad near the famous Dumbur Lake in the Chabimura region is being constructed and new activities are added such as water scooters, floating jetty and speed boat services at Dumbur Lake.
Neighbouring states of Meghalaya, Manipur, Mizoram, Arunachal and Assam are still not open for tourists. In all likelihood, Arunachal Pradesh will reopen for tourists after October.
In short, while most of India is now open for tourists but remember what PM Modi said, “Jab tak dawai nahi, tab tak dhilai nahi. Do gaj ki doori, mask hai jaroori (No carelessness till a medicine is found. Face mask and maintaining a distance of two yards is necessary). Before venturing out anywhere remember, there are strict rules in place for our own safety. Masks are mandatory wherever you go; physical distancing is obligatory, and the need to respect local sensitivities and concerns is now more important than ever.
While almost the whole of India is open for tourism, here are the Safe Places that I would recommend visiting in India post lockdown because of their unscathed natural surrounding and less population density that makes them ideal for maintaining social distancing.
Go for: Lush nature walks in untouched Lahaul Valley and admiring the latest engineering marvel of BRO – Atal Tunnel.
If there’s a part of Himachal that had managed to maintain its serenity, calmness and can still be termed as offbeat, it would be Lahaul Valley. Until this year, it was just a pit stop for Manali-Leh travellers. Hardly anyone explored it beyond a night halt. But after the opening of Atal Tunnel, things might change now.
How to go: Drive/fly from Delhi to Manali and then take a taxi or drive to Lahaul via Atal Tunnel. Takes around 16 hours by road (14 hours bus ride from Delhi to Manali and approx. 2 hours taxi ride from Manali to Keylong)
Where to stay: Government-approved homestays and hotels.
Price starts as low as 500 INR per night.
Go for: Working from the wilderness, a taste of village life, and learning the lessons in wildlife conservation that goes beyond greenwashing.
The advantage Madhya Pradesh has over other states is its low density of population, especially around the National Parks. Moreover, Jungle Lodges are among the safest holiday places equipped with good Wi-Fi and high sanitisation measures as prescribed by MHA. By their very nature, jungle lodges have a limited number of cottages that too spread out in the wilderness with no lifts or elevators. Most of the action takes place outdoors, whether it is dining or activities. So, city folks can work out of the wild without worrying about the virus. One can either drive to any of the big six national parks in M.P. or fly to Nagpur, Raipur and Jabalpur.
Last but not least, Work from Wilderness can be the much-needed ecotourism push that can bring a positive change in the lives of locals who are the direct beneficiaries of responsible wildlife tourism.
How to go: Fly into Jabalpur, and from there it takes a 4-hour drive to reach Bandhavgarh
Where to stay: Pugdundee Safari’s Treehouse Hideaway
How much does it cost: Price includes all meals, tea/coffee and current taxes:
07-12 nights – INR 9000 per room per night
13-21 nights – INR 8000 per room per night
22+ nights – INR 7500 per room per night
Go for: the mountain vibes of the vibrant state of Gujarat
Saputara lies very close to the border of Maharashtra and is very easy to get here. Despite being the only hill station in Gujarat it doesn’t get overly crowded. You can enjoy a safe and quaint holiday with your partner, family or friends. You can go trekking in the hills or go for other adventure activities like nature walks or boating.
How to go: A 5-hour drive (247.5 km) from Mumbai via NH160 and Saputara – Nasik Rd
Where to stay: Sunotel Resort or Club Mahendra Hatgad
The price starts at INR 5500 per room per night (prices change with availability and holidays)
Go for: rafting in the Ganges and quaint village life
Rishikesh has always been a favourite of weekend travellers, adventure enthusiasts, spiritual seekers and. Therefore, as soon as the travel restrictions were lifted, the sleepy town on the Ganges started seeing an influx of tourists. Besides the state has announced a ‘Tourists Incentive Coupons’ scheme to reboot travel under which tourists would get either INR1,000 or 25% discount – whichever is lower – on per day accommodation charges for up to three days.
How to go: A 5-hour drive or bus or train from Delhi. You can also take an overnight train to Haridwar.
Where to stay: Glass House on the Ganges or Atali Ganga
The price starts at INR 5500 per room per night including one raft trip and three meals at Atali Ganga
Go for: nature and wildlife. The state is a paradise for mountain lovers.
Often termed as the Himalayan Shangri-La, Sikkim has just reopened its gates for tourists and has a plethora of top-notch travel experiences to offer, despite its small size. Read more about the state here: Visit Sikkim – The Himalayan Shangri La
How to go: Fly from Delhi or any other city to Bagdogra and then take a taxi to Gangtok or whichever place you want to visit.
Where to stay: WelcomHeritage Denzong Regency
The price starts at INR 7,150 per person per night
If you want to reconnect with nature after spending months at home, Coorg is a great option. Located in a coffee-growing region, it is a place where you can go on rejuvenating treks, aromatic plantation trails or simply enjoy a private campfire. Coorg is blessed with lush greenery, plantations of the most aromatic coffee and spices, gurgling streams, and gushing waterfalls.
Like other parts of India, homestays and resorts in Coorg have also started Workcation packages, especially for the people of Bengaluru.
How to go: Approximately 4-hour drive from Bengaluru or a 6-hour bus ride.
Where to stay: Tamara Coorg
Price starts at Special Package – Breakfast only from INR 16,520/- per night.
So these were my suggestions for visiting the famous tourist places in India state wise. Have you ventured out anywhere lately? If yes, how was your experience?
What are the right questions to ask in a pandemic stricken world and how you can preserve the memories of life during COVID19 era
Ever since Covid19 pandemic made an uninvited entry to turn our lives upside down, the most frequently asked question, “how are you” became the most irrelevant question. The truth is no one’s really doing well. People are falling sick and dying in alarming numbers all around us. Today I am lucky to be fine, but tomorrow I might not be. Our jobs, our economy, our entire financial future is in ICU. We are all dealing with pandemic stress, and we are not even sure how much and for how long we have to endure this stress. So, what’s the point of asking an inappropriate question that was once a polite way of expressing concern for a person’s well-being?
If you are genuinely interested in someone’s well-being, then perhaps rephrase your questions that clearly check about their emotional or psychological well-being. “How are you coping with the pandemic?” for instance, signals that you don’t expect them to be doing great, and that you are genuinely interested to know how they’re handling things. “What’s going on your mind lately?” suggests an openness to a more in-depth conversation. You might also follow up with a more positive question, “did you try out any new thing” or “we are living in the most historical times of your lives, how are you going to showcase your pandemic memories to future generations?”
When a crisis hits us, there are two ways to deal with it –succumb to it without trying or find a silver lining around the dark cloud. Being an eternal optimist, I opted for the latter. I started exploring all the unexplored creative desires I didn’t know I possessed. While anthropologists and historians around the globe are using this stressful time to create archives that can be cherished for years and years to come, I realised that I too needed to document this vital part of my life. The pandemic may not discriminate between its preys. Still, every single individual has a unique experience that could be great bedtime stories for their grandchildren or inspiration for literature and TV novellas. If you can’t simply seem to decide where to start before the unique experience takes a backseat in the train of your thoughts, use the following to help yourself from pandemic stress and simultaneously start preserving pandemic memories effectively:
I have always found describing my feelings in words therapeutic. Journaling allows you to identify your problems and find solutions to them. Every time you open your journal, you slide into a safe mental zone, you can pour out all your feelings into without the fear of being judged. Be it your tiring work from home schedule or a small disagreement with friends or closed ones because of the sudden responsibilities the pandemic has delivered in our laps; the journal is the most healthy way to express your anger and frustration. You can also experiment with different ways of journaling. Personally, my favourite one was creating a Pandemic Travelogue, but here are some more ways you can explore:
Photo essays are extremely suited for some of the most commonly experienced things by people during COVID-19; some of them are:
The most crucial change that pandemic brought in my life is a healthy mindset – I became more health-conscious and started exercising regularly. Being a night owl morning walk was a far-fetched dream for me, but thanks to the lockdown period I did the unthinkable – I adopted the ‘early to bed early to rise’ age-old wisdom into my daily routine.
Thanks to my health-conscious friends like Amit I started exercising at home, and once parks opened, I started morning walks in nature. The bonus was capturing the simple moments of life which I overlooked until now. Moments such as listening to the birdsong in the park, witnessing sunlight transform dewdrops into natural prisms, sweepers calmly making India ‘Swacch Bharat’ while we only indulge in sloganeering, doodhwallah (milkmen) and newsaperwallah (newspaper delivery man) going door to door, morning joggers catching up on national issues while catching their breath and many more such seemingly mundane moments suddenly became interesting.
I started appreciating the vagaries of ordinary life while keeping myself healthy. Slowly the lockdown didn’t appear to be so bad as it gave the much-needed time to reflect on the fragility of life and appreciate the little moments. If you did the same, why not share it with others. Who knows your effort can become someone’s inspiration?
All of us understood the importance of cookbooks we had buried beneath the piles of unread magazines, YouTube videos and recipes from the best cooking blogs around the world better than we ever have. I started experimenting with the ingredients in my kitchen and sharing the proud result of my culinary skills with my friends. While I am not into food blogging, you can write about all the new recipes you cooked for yourself in the pandemic and how you made local or vegan versions of dishes from all around the world. Those mouth-watering dishes definitely deserve the best clicks!
As work from home and video calls became the new norm of professional life, the need for renovating your work area started gaining momentum. Take, for example, my friend Shalini who works as a creative Director in an Ad Agency, started subtly showcasing the creative workspace during office video calls. She always wanted a corner office like her boss, so she took lockdown as an opportunity to create one with a couch, artefacts, flowers, and plants. She started experimenting with lights, plants, furnishings, and even different corners of the house. Suddenly her aesthetically done workspace became the conversation starter in her official and personal video calls.
Travellers all around the world, in a brave yet intelligent way, played a crucial part in creating a new normal for the Travel Industry. With all the Personal Protection equipment and safety guidelines guiding my Staycation in Hyderabad, I could see an entirely new way of travelling and personal care being born. I made sure to share the insider information with my readers to quell myths about flying in 2020 and safe travels. Travel Photography companies like ShootMe have created options for you to capture your journeys (even to local areas) safely and professionally along with making quality virtual shoots a possibility in this pandemic.
If you’ve been posting out a lot of videos on Social Media lately for communicating the changes that have come into your life, and for motivating others, in that case, video journals are just the thing for you. Video journals or vlogs can be simple collections of all the little things you did in the pandemic, alone or with your loved ones. Even saved recordings from an online meet with my friends and family stuck in different corners of the world has helped me understand the value of all these emotional bonds we took for granted. I used this time to create informational videos about my past trips from Laos and Maldives.
So, these were some of my ideas on how you can preserve Pandemic Memories during COVID19 era. Have you learnt any new skill during this time or brought a positive change in your life? If yes, please feel to share your feedback in the below comment section.
How much does a Maldives holiday package actually cost? For a couple flying from India in 2027, anywhere from ₹1.15 lakh on a local island to over ₹10 lakh for a week in an overwater villa. I’ve broken it all down below, from flights and seaplane transfers to green tax, service charges and the fine print on honeymoon packages, so you know exactly what you’ll pay before you book.
Maldives remains one of the world’s most sought-after and frequently searched luxury and island destinations in 2026. And, for Indians, it is one of the bucket-list honeymoon and family destinations. Moreover, the Maldives is one of the safest and easiest luxury escapes from India, now just a short direct flight away. But a lot has changed on the ground: a new airport terminal, higher tourist taxes, a digital arrival form and some of the world’s strictest tobacco laws. This guide covers safety, entry rules, flights from India, what a trip really costs in 2026-27, where to stay, what to eat and do, and the climate story that makes the Maldives worth visiting thoughtfully.
Here is everything you need to know before planning a trip to Maldives along with specially curated tips to have an unforgettable holiday:
No, Maldives is one of the safest countries in the world to visit post-lockdown and has earned the WTTC Safe Travels stamp for adopting health and hygiene global standardised protocols. So, you need not worry before booking a holiday to Maldives.
Here is a detailed video of whether it is safe to visit Maldives or not
The island nation is warm and sunny year-round but consists of two main seasons – a dry season that’s best for visitors and a wet, rainy season that is usually a lean season. The best weather – and the best time to visit the Maldives – is between November and April. Usually, the peak season is between December and March and May to October is the monsoon season.
Maldives weather by month: when to go and when to avoid the monsoon
| Month | Weather | Best for | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| January | Dry, 9–10 hours of sun | Calm seas, clear water | Peak |
| February | Driest month, about 50 mm of rain in Malé | Best visibility for snorkelling | Peak |
| March | Dry and hot | Diving, whale sharks in South Ari | Peak |
| April | Hottest, mostly calm | Near-peak weather at better rates | Shoulder |
| May | Monsoon begins, showers | Early manta season in Baa Atoll | Low |
| June | Wetter and breezy | Surfing, deals | Low |
| July | Sun between showers | Surfing, manta rays | Low |
| August | Mixed | Peak manta season at Hanifaru Bay | Low |
| September | Wettest, about 240 mm in Malé, still 7–8 hours of sun | Lowest prices | Low |
| October | Transitional, improving | Value, last of the mantas | Shoulder |
| November | Rain easing into the dry season | Pre-peak deals, diving | Shoulder |
| December | Dry season returns | Festive holidays | Peak, highest around New Year |
When to avoid: if you want guaranteed blue skies for a once-in-a-lifetime trip, skip May to September. If you can live with an afternoon shower, these months offer the best value of the year.
One note for reef lovers: March to May is the hottest stretch, and warm water now brings coral bleaching alerts in some years.
The Maldives is more affordable now with premier properties balancing ultra-luxury with highly competitive, inclusive value. Perhaps it is the best time ever to book a trip to the island nation as the ongoing Maldives holiday packages (during off season) are available at rock bottom prices. Private island resorts frequently roll out promotional campaigns offering up to 50% discount on standard villa rates, making it an excellent window to secure a tropical escape. Currently, a mid-luxury 3N4D private resort Maldives Holiday Package, inclusive of return flights from India, 4-star to 5-star island resort accommodation, speedboat airport transfers, and selected meals, starts from roughly INR 85,000 to INR 1,15,000 ($1,000 to $1,360) per person depending on the season.
And, the best part is some of the hotels such as Adaaran Resorts are offering Maldives holiday packages with additional features such as Flexi cancellation which allows cancelling or rescheduling your booking up to 24 hours before your arrival. However, if you are taking a seaplane, make it 72 hours. Because the Maldives levies a mandatory 17% Tourism GST, a 10% service charge, and a flat environmental Green Tax of $12 per person per night at resorts, it is highly advisable to book a Premium All-Inclusive package. Bundling your accommodation, food, drinks, and excursions upfront shields you from the compound tax stack and proves significantly more economical than paying for meals à la carte.
Tip: Check for inclusive holiday deals on travel platforms like MakeMyTrip or other major flight-and-hotel aggregators to lock in the best wholesale rates.
The Maldives is geographically well connected with Asia, Europe, Africa and America. And, it doesn’t take long to get to the Maldives from the Indian subcontinent. Earlier Delhi, Mumbai, Kochi were the main airports to board an India-Maldives flight. It takes around 7-11 hours to get to the Maldives depending on the layover. Now the situation has changed. Starting August Air India started flying a direct flight from India and other airlines such as indigo are soon to start flying again to Male. In India, you can currently fly from Kerala. But soon, like before you can fly from Delhi, Tamil Nadu, Maharashtra, and Karnataka as well. I have flown both directly from Delhi as well as via Colombo with Srilankan Airlines.
Schedules change by season, so double-check before you book. You’ll land at Velana’s new Terminal 1, which opened in July 2025. If you’re taking a seaplane, there are dedicated check-in counters inside the terminal, and a bus takes you across to the seaplane base. From there, your resort decides how you travel. Resorts near Malé use speedboats, which run day and night and take 20 to 90 minutes. Resorts in Baa, Ari and Lhaviyani use seaplanes, 25 to 45 minutes of pure joy, but only in daylight. The far-flung atolls need a short domestic flight and then a boat.
A lesson worth learning from other people’s mistakes: if your resort needs a seaplane, choose a flight that lands in Malé before mid-afternoon. Seaplanes don’t fly after dark, and a late landing means an unplanned (and expensive) night near the airport.
Tip: If your resort is far away from Male, you’ll need to take a seaplane ride. So, keep the arrival and departure day free.
The Maldives is a small island nation in South Asia, scattered in the Arabian Sea of the Indian Ocean. It lies southwest of Sri Lanka and India, about 700 kilometres from the Asian continent’s mainland. The Maldives is 99% water and only one per cent land. And, that’s why the archipelago nation is so blessed with postcard beauty of powdery white sand beaches lined with turquoise blue lagoons. Out of the 1,200 islands of the country, only 200 islands are inhabited. The reefs in the Maldives are extremely rich and constitute almost 5% of the world’s reef. The marine life here is so rich that you can find over a thousand species of fishes and over two hundred kinds of corals.
Tip: Seaplane ride is a great way to see the unique geography of the Maldives from above
The Maldives is a chain of 26 atolls and around 1,200 coral islands, and only about 200 of them have local communities living on them. Many of the rest are private resort islands, one island to one resort, which is exactly why it feels so wonderfully secluded.
Most visitors, almost seven out ten, stay at resorts. Overwater villas give you the honeymoon picture and steps straight into the lagoon. Beach villas are often better for families, cheaper, and give you shade and sand underfoot. Liveaboards are for serious divers who want a different reef every morning.
The option I’d love more Indian travellers to consider is a local-island guesthouse, on islands like Maafushi, Dhigurah or Ukulhas. They now host nearly a quarter of all visitors. You’ll find designated bikini beaches and no alcohol on the island, but you’ll also meet Maldivian families, eat in local cafés and spend a fraction of resort prices. You can even combine the two, a few nights local and a few at a resort, in one trip.
Maldives is synonymous to luxury. Imagine waking up to a perfectly laid out breakfast on your sundeck and then enjoying the water therapy of the Indian ocean. You swim with colourful baby sharks and manta rays as the waves gently cradle your ocean villa. And, when you are done with your swimming session, you take off with your personal butler in an electric car to enjoy the action on the island. What is more, you can experience the hospitality of garden and beach villas. The resort nation provides you with luxury, which you can only dream.
As far as accommodation is concerned, the options are many starting from an uber posh resort such as SONEVA JANI starting at Rs 912,503 ($12,403) to a local guesthouse coming at as low as $50 a night. But the charm of Maldives is in staying at its luxury resorts.
Tips:
Maldives is positioned as a global luxury destination heavily promoted as a honeymoon destination for couples and rich families. However, if you plan wisely and ahead in time you can do a family holiday to Maldives in budget as well. The most important factor that makes a Maldives holiday expensive or cheap is the season you visit and the property you choose to stay. The seasonal price gap in the Maldives is dramatic. During Peak Season (December to February), pristine weather drives a 45% to 60% price premium. Conversely, Low Season (May to September) brings monsoon risk but drops room rates by 35% to 50%, presenting massive value windows.
Below is the comparative pricing for the top ultra-luxury resorts and the most accessible private islands/local properties.
Have a question about your own Maldives budget? Drop it in the comments and I’ll answer.
Since Maldives is almost 99% sea, it is not surprising that fish (mainly tuna) is the crucial staple of the Maldivian diet. The local cuisine is a mix of Arabic, Indian, Sri Lankan and Oriental influences. But once you are in the resort you can have whatever cuisine you crave for – be it Continental, Mediterranean, Mexican, Indian, Chinese, Arabic or any other food you are in the mood to have.
Each resort has five to seven restaurants and bars with speciality chefs, who can cook as per your liking, as per your taste. The cocktails are to die for in Maldives. Even after seven months, I can’t forget the taste of the wood-fired oven pizza I had at Lohi’s in Adaaran Select Hudhuranfushi. One of the best pizzas I ever had and the icing on the cake was the setting sun on the wild surfing waves. All food and drinks were included in my all-inclusive package except for special dinner or breakfast at the beach.
Tip: Have one special meal at the beach or on a sand bar.
While Maldives is like a postcard to look from overland, the real magic lies under the waves. Therefore, it would be blasphemous to visit Maldives and not experience its marine life. When I went diving, I felt I was in a world of Nemo with 1000’s of fishes, corals, turtles, damselfish, baby sharks and many more of different colours, different varieties swimming all around me. It is an experience that you must have.
Besides scuba diving, there are many other activities you can do at the resort that are usually included in your package, such as snorkelling, paddleboarding, and non-motorised activities.
Plus, there is no shortage of land activities such as football, Tennis, Aerobic, Yoga and a lot more. If you want a massage then go to a spa where you can enjoy massages of different kinds like Balinese, Chinese, Indonesian or whatever you want, you can get it.
Tip: you could get seasick on the boat after scuba diving or during a sunset cruise, so carry medicine to avoid sea-sickness
Being one of the lowest-lying countries in the world, Maldives grapples with sea storms, and sea swells several times a year. Maldives has already lost twenty islands in the last twenty years. The fear is increasing by the day. If we don’t bring our carbon emissions down, the whole of Maldives can be drowned in the next thirty to fifty years.
Therefore, the Maldivian government and the local resorts are putting a lot of efforts to make travel more sustainable for tourists by using ecotourism activities such as employing green and clean energy options, group transfers instead of individual transfers, no motorised vehicles on the island, installing solar energy panels, water recycling, growing vegetables and fruits, making islands plastic-free, beach cleaning, and coral restoration.
For Indians, getting a Maldives visa in is quite simple. You get a free 30-day visa on arrival, as long as you have a passport with at least a month’s validity (airlines may ask for six, so play safe), a confirmed resort or guesthouse booking, a return ticket and enough funds for your stay.
The one thing you must do online is the IMUGA Traveller Declaration at imuga.immigration.gov.mv. It’s free, it needs a passport-style photo, and every traveller, babies included, files their own within 96 hours of flying. I tell clients to do it the day they pack, not at the airport, because airlines can ask for the QR code before boarding.
There are also a few rules worth knowing. Vapes are completely banned, for every age, so leave them at home. Anyone born on or after 1 January 2007 can’t buy or use tobacco there, tourists included. And you can’t bring in alcohol or pork, even from duty-free.
As for safety, the Maldives is one of the most relaxed places I know. Most guests go straight from the airport to their island and never set foot in Malé. Take travel insurance that covers medical evacuation and water sports, respect the ocean, and dress modestly when you visit a local island.
I hope I have been able to answer all your queries regarding Maldives Travel. When are you going to experience the sunny side of life in Maldives?
Below links will provide you with the updated and correct information on the COVID-19 scenario in the Maldives.
Flooded Future: Can the sinking Maldives be saved?
Inspired? Pin these to your Pinterest boards
Slowly as the world is gradually opening up from strict lockdown and looking towards a new normal with squinty eyes, travel thoughts are making a comeback. Even as travel is on pause, Indian travellers have started making wish lists of the safest countries to visit in Asia. They might not be booking but they are looking.
Safety instead of the popularity now governs the desirability of destinations. Unnecessary flying will be avoided. A fact echoed by the survey conducted by the International Air Transport Association (IATA), the biggest fear among the flyers is sitting next to someone infected. In this global survey, about 58% of the respondents said that they had avoided air travel because of this fear. Contrary to the fear, Air Travel is very safe. Read my detailed post on everything you need to know to fly safely in 2020.
While no one knows when will it be safe to travel again, people have gradually started moving out. Domestic road trips and staycations are making a classic come back. And once the confidence is back in global tourism, short-haul international destinations will pick up steam too after the domestic market.
To bring back tourism on track and promote safe and hygienic travel, World Travel & Tourism Council (WTTC) has launched a specially designed stamp that will allow travellers to recognise governments and companies around the world which have adopted health and hygiene global standardised protocols – so consumers can experience ‘Safe Travels’.
Below are the safest destinations you can travel to right now in Asia.
The tourism-dependent island nation will be your safest bet if you are looking to holiday in a paradise without having any fear of contracting the virus. The Maldives took proactive measures to contain the virus in the initial stages because of which there have been fewer cases as compared to other nations.
After being closed for four months, the archipelago opened for tourists in July 2020. The ‘one island one resort’ philosophy of the Maldives makes it a preferred destination for anyone looking for safety and privacy. Some resorts are even offering to reserve entire islands for you and your group.
Here is a detailed video that shares the latest travel advice on the Maldives including the current covid19 situation in the country, air bubble arrangement, cost, stay options, food and almost every other information you need to know to plan a trip to the Maldives.
When you arrive in the Maldives as a tourist, you don’t spend much time in the capital. You are directly escorted from the Male Airport to your resort either through a speedboat or a seaplane.
The Maldives has been very proactive when it comes to safety and hygiene, and now they are following even more stringent measures set by the international and local guidelines. Maldives is a proud holder of WTTC Safe Travels stamp for adopting health and hygiene global standardised protocols.
The Maldives is more affordable than ever
Yes, that’s true! In fact, it is the best time ever to book a holiday in the Maldives because of the ongoing offers. Resorts are giving as much as up to 50% discount, and features such as Flexi cancellation that allows cancelling or rescheduling your booking up to 24 hours before your arrival. However, if you are taking a seaplane, it is 72 hours. Make sure to book an all-inclusive package that covers your accommodation, food, drinks and excursions. It works out to be a cheaper deal than booking separately.
Tip: Before booking your holiday take care of two critical facts – you can only stay at one resort, and you need to install the Maldives’ contact tracing app ‘TraceEkee’ (like India’s Aarogya Setu app) prescribed by the Maldives Ministry of tourism.
Below links will provide you the updated and correct information on the COVID-19 scenario in the Maldives.
Latest COVID-19 updates: https://covid19.health.gov.mv/en/
Maldives COVID-19 Dashboard: https://covid19.health.gov.mv/dashboard/
India is a number one market for UAE, specifically Dubai. In 2019, out of the 16 million visitors that were welcomed by Dubai, 2 million were Indians – the highest from any country. Indians have always been attracted to the desert city for short-haul or weekender trips due to its proximity, similar culture, food, big Indian diaspora and attractions that are ideal for families, couples and MICE market. Whether you are looking for retail therapy at opulent malls or taking a much-deserved break at luxury resorts and hotels, adrenaline action at Dubai Skydiving or a quiet dinner in the sand dunes of Dubai; the city never disappoints to welcome you.
And, even during a raging pandemic the financial capital of UAE – Dubai – has topped the charts of many surveys as most sought-after international destination such as Unravel Travel: Fears & Possibilities in a Post Coronavirus (Covid-19) and, Booking.com survey. As of date, Dubai is among a few cities in the world that are currently open to both tourism and business. India and UAE are flying special repatriate flights between the two countries under an ‘air bubble’ arrangement, which allows carriers of both countries to operate repatriation flights.
Dubai is renowned for turning small things into mega attractions, and Dubai intends to use the same essence to attract Indian travellers back to the city while harping on the fact that the grandiose city is fully geared to provide a safe and hygienic world-class experience. In fact it received a seal of approval by none other than the World Travel & Tourism Council (WTTC). Dubai is one of the very few international destinations in the world to earn the coveted WTTC Safe Travels stamp for adopting health and hygiene global standardised protocols – so consumers can experience ‘Safe Travels’.
It was the emirate’s strict safety standards and ease of pulling out big-ticket events at last minute that India’s largest sporting spectacle, Indian Primer League (IPL), decided to host the IPL 2020 in UAE.
PS: The situation is quite fluid and can change drastically overnight so please check the latest travel advise from Visit Dubai or the airline you are flying with for more details before booking your trip.
Even as travelling to Singapore may be on pause now, the country remains the top choice for Indian and Asian travellers as per the Unravel Travel survey. The Singapore Tourism Board (STB) knows this fact and don’t want to break the connection with its visitors. It has launched a microsite as part of the tourism board’s efforts to make sure Indian travellers have Singapore in mind, whenever they start to travel again. The microsite encourages potential travellers to “Rediscover Now, Travel Later” with numerous activities in the joint programme with STB. Sections such as ‘Singapore@Home’, ‘Fun@Home’ invites the audience to ‘virtually’ explore the countless attractions, foods and cocktails of the city in a fun and interactive way. The microsite also showcases how tourism businesses in Singapore are preparing to welcome back business.
Singapore is gradually reopening its borders to allow safe travel in limited numbers from a few countries with the necessary safety guidelines. So far, Singapore has implemented special safe travel arrangements with some countries/regions such as Brunei Darussalam, Malaysia, China, Japan, Republic of Korea and New Zealand. Indian nationals belonging only to a particular category or status are permitted to enter Singapore. Transfer or transit passes for Indian passengers are not accepted.
Here are some useful links for updated information on the COVID-19 situation in Singapore.
There’s a lot we can learn Bhutan, a small Himalayan Kingdom that has successfully averted the COVID-19 crisis with timely action. Bhutan’s Health Ministry took swift action right from the beginning, which is one of the reasons why Bhutan could keep COVID-19 at bay. With zero coronavirus-related fatalities, the country contained the pandemic despite limited resources.
In mid-March, when (the) first COVID-19 case was detected in the country, Bhutanese authorities traced the primary contacts within hours. They mandated a 21-day quarantine period for people entering the country from abroad.
There is a lot we can learn from Bhutan on how to pre-empt and prepare for a future crisis. Although Bhutan did not have any prior experience of dealing with the 2003 SARS outbreak, it did, however, proactively prepare to deal with a similar disease outbreak in a simulation exercise at Paro airport in November 2019, just one month before COVID-19 surfaced in China last year.
One of the reasons why the Himalayan nation was so swift in tackling the coronavirus was the high level of public trust in government officials. The country’s subsequent rapid mobilization was strongly informed by science, with Prime Minister Lotay Tshering and Health Minister Dechen Wangmo both public health officials before entering politics. They were quick to comprehend the technical guidance from the WHO and used scientific literature to guide decision-making. As a result, government decisions were based on scientific evidence. Following an evidence-based approach of testing, effective quarantines, and border control, Bhutan has been able to avoid overloading its limited healthcare system.
Travelling to Bhutan is currently not allowed as the Bhutan government has put an imbargo on tourism until further notice. The government is closely monitoring the situation within and beyond its borders, and updates will be provided progressively as the global crisis unfolds.
The country’s ‘High Value, Low Volume’ tourism policy anchored in promoting sustainable tourism makes it a unique and exclusive travel destination. It will continue with this policy even when it decides to open up again. To make travel safe it will continue following the safety measures set by the World Health Organization and the Ministry of Health. A contact tracing app is already in use nationwide. Unlike other nations, Bhutan has a 21-day quarantine rule as of now for incoming stranded locals.
The country sees opportunity in the current crisis – it wants to embrace the travel trend of wellness further, and think of positive ways to promote the destination as a place where people can reflect, rest and relax.
The landlocked nation with the communist government and Buddhist genes is one of the safest countries to visit in Asia once it opens its borders for tourists. With just 19 cases and zero deaths, it was able to contain the COVID19 pandemic effectively before it could spread its tentacles and was declared coronavirus free on June 10, 2020. It is easy to get into, is blessed with stunning nature, is dearth cheap to explore and has a unique Asian culture, which is still untouched by consumerism. Where else can you witness a 2500-year-old tradition of enigmatic, saffron-cloaked monks walking through streets seeking alms before sunrise or multi-tiered turquoise blue waterfalls thundering into a lush park with granite mountains?
Despite being small like Bhutan, Laos too imposed strict measures to contain the pandemic. After the first two COVID19 cases were confirmed on March 24, a mandatory lockdown was imposed, borders were sealed, and domestic travel to other provinces was prohibited. As a result, only 23 COVID19 positive cases and zero deaths have been reported till date. All this happened because of aggressive testing of migrant workers and travellers entering the country.
Like other nations, Laos has closed borders for foreign countries. Flights are discontinued until 30th September except for essential reasons.
Foreigners who require to travel to Laos for an essential purpose must follow the following guidelines:
India has established Air bubbles with 13 countries – US, UK, France, Germany, Canada, Qatar, UAE, Bahrain, Afghanistan, Iraq, Maldives and Nigeria.
Out of all these countries, only very few countries are open to tourists.
Air bubbles are bilateral agreements through which a specific number of airlines, from both the countries, can fly. However, as per the agreement, an airline can only fly passengers between the two countries, which have signed the agreement. It cannot fly passengers from somewhere else before or after the journey. Before Air Bubbles were formed countries were only allowing repatriating flights during lockdowns. While repatriating flights are one way and the passengers have to register themselves with the embassy to board such flights, air bubble flights are both ways. Passengers can book tickets directly from the airlines.
As per the Civil aviation minister of India, Hardeep Singh Puri, the process of gradually resuming international flights is ongoing, and more destinations will be added soon to the list of countries where Indians can fly.
Have you done any International Travel lately? Which places do you think are the Safest Places to visit post COVID19? Do share your feedback in the comments section below.
In this article, you’ll read about the economic impact of COVID19 on global and Indian economy, if there’s any chance of revival of tourism in the near future, key concerns of travellers and how will travel change post lockdown.
COVID19 pandemic not only created a worldwide health emergency overnight but pushed the global economy into a level of a recession that was last witnessed during World War II. Sadly, emerging markets and developing economies such as India are the worst affected. Five out of six economies are expected to fall into outright recession as per capita income declines drastically. The Indian economy was already in struggle mode, reeling under the long-term effects of Demonetisation and hasty implementation of an ill-conceived GST plan. COVID-19 came as the proverbial Black Swan to hammer the nails into India’s economic engine.
Before COVID19, our growth rate had tumbled to 3% in the FY2019-20, which is lesser than the growth rate of the 1950s – 3.5%. And now, the Indian economy is in a tailspin shrinking 23.9% in the three months ending in June 2020. We are no longer staring at a recession but a ‘depression’, something that India had not witnessed in its 73 years of independence. Since economic recovery does not happen overnight, it would take at least three to four years to emerge out of it.
Covid-19 has put a long pause on all the facets of life and business. Unfortunately, Tourism happens to be one of the worst-hit sectors among all the industries.
Before COVID19 pulled emergency breaks, travel and tourism sector was growing faster than the Global GDP (3.5% vs 2.5%). A sector that was contributing $9 trillion to the global GDP (10.3%) and providing 330 million jobs worldwide last year is on ventilator today – facing the most significant challenge it has faced till date. The UNWTO estimates a reduction of 58% to 78% in tourist traffic across the world, leading to a fall of a billion international tourist arrivals. Fewer tourists mean less income more loses, thus leading to substantial job cuts. Almost 121 million will be out of their jobs predicts the World Travel and Tourism Council.
According to the Federation of Associations in Indian Tourism & Hospitality (FAITH), the Indian tourism industry is headed towards pan India bankruptcies, closure of businesses and mass unemployment. Almost 3.8 crore people are about to become jobless, which is around 70 per cent of the total workforce in the tourism and hospitality sector.
Despite the steep downfall, Indians are optimistic about the future. A fact reflected in the latest Consumer Confidence Index (CCI) survey done by Reserve Bank of India (RBI) – from a messy score of 53.8 points in the current fiscal year the CCI jumped to 105.4 points for a year ahead. While Indians will spend cautiously for the next one year, the situation might change after a year depending on the economic measures taken by the government, business functioning and the COVID19 vaccine availability.
After months of lockdown, as the travel restrictions are eased out, and COVID19 vaccine trials enter the last stages; travellers are showing signs of revival. They have started looking for safe places to visit post lockdown. Unsurprisingly Indians are the most confident in the world about resuming their international adventures once our COVID19 cases come under control, and we are allowed to travel abroad. This is not a hyperbole statement by Modi Sarkar but findings of a recent global research study called, “Unravel Travel: Fears & Possibilities in a Post Coronavirus (COVID-19) World.” It examined the sentiments, preferences, and expectations of 10,195 people across 17 countries regarding travel in a post-COVID-19 world.
As per the study, most Indians top the list of people most eager to travel internationally in the next 12 months with 77 per cent saying they are keen to travel.
The “Unravel Travel” study revealed that contactless travel would be a top priority for travellers once they can resume travelling. 76 per cent of respondents indicated that their preferred destinations would be countries that offer more reliable contactless experiences. In terms of what the future of travel looks like, the study found that e-boarding passes (41 per cent), touchless lavatories (43 per cent), contactless journeys between airports and hotels (40 per cent), no more middle seats in transportation (36 per cent) and digital health passports (35 per cent) are some of the new ideas that global travellers hope to see implemented in the near future.
If there’s anything that would be the most sought after factor post-pandemic travel – it would be sanitisation and social distancing. People will only travel to places which are clean and less travelled by. Hotels will be thoroughly checked before choosing the one which they’re confident is extremely clean and hygienic. People would want to know if the hotel and its staff are following all prescribed safety guidelines or not. Maintaining personal hygiene will take precedence over being fashionable on a holiday as hand sanitisers, masks, hand gloves, disinfectant wipes, and travel insurance will become top items to pack for their next vacation.
People will most likely choose passport-free holidays to destinations close to home so that they can rush back if necessary. Thus, domestic travel will see a surge in demand over foreign travel for at least coming six months. Instead of clamouring to popular destinations, people would prefer green, clean and safe places where social distancing can be practised. Gone are the days when people would mindlessly rush to follow the bucket list of others – 30 countries to visit before turning 30, places to see before I die etcetera. Post-pandemic, the familiarity of one’s own backyard would bring more comfort over exploring new places and big-ticket attractions.
As countries ease up on their coronavirus restrictions, they are also experimenting with the idea of a “travel bubble.” No, it’s not a transparent giant ball you roll around the world in à la Bubble Boy. Instead, it’s an agreement between cooperating countries that allows for citizens to travel freely between the nations, in the hopes of kick-starting tourism and helping economies rebound. India too has signed a few air bubbles with countries such as the USA, UK, France, Germany and UAE but as if now they are operating for essential travel only. The first destinations to be explored abroad for tourism will be Maldives, Dubai, Sri Lanka, and Bhutan as they are all closer to India and are relatively corona free. The first movers will benefit from the pent-up demand as borders open and new air bubbles are formed.
People will be more comfortable driving to a close-by destination in their own private vehicle rather than using public transport. It’s a perfect opportunity for car rental companies to offer great rates post-lockdown, with assurances of each vehicle having been deep-cleaned after each use. RVs might become the flavour of the season for people looking for camping. Staycations and workations will motivate people to travel slowly in a post-pandemic work-from-home world. The idea of staycations will gain even more popularity, with city-dwellers taking a nature-filled respite from work-from-home stress.
The fear of catching the virus in crowded places will keep the people away from big group travel such as coach holidays, cruise travel at least until the vaccine arrives. Travel will become personal again with families and small groups of friends seeking a retreat for mind, body and soul from the pandemic stress. Wellness wouldn’t be just about getting massages or practising yoga, but they would want to eat fresh, healthy and immunity inducing food during their holiday. Romantic, or solo travel could also take a small pause before picking up again.
One good thing that happened during the lockdown is that it gave a much-needed break to nature and wildlife – the sky is blue again, the air is crisp, rivers are self-cleansing, fishes have returned to the waterways, wildlife is reclaiming its lost territory, birds are chirping and many more pleasing visuals that delighted us during the lockdown. Seeing nature heal itself, people are keener to return to nature. Living through a pandemic has sparked a re-evaluation of people’s priorities and attitudes. A new sense of protecting our planet is gaining ground. So, expect more people to travel responsibly. Furthermore, the pandemic has made the travel industry introspect and promote new kind of travel that not only tries to slow down the damage to a destination but help in its restoration – Regenerative Travel.
Due to bad economic condition, mass layoffs, and uncertainty of how the future will look like, people will hold on to splurging on vacations. As a result, the hospitality industry will be forced to provide luxury at a more affordable price – you’ll see reduced rates, free cancellations, free extras, airport transfers and many other perks. Travel aggregators such as MakeMyTrip, yatra, booking, EaseMyTrip and others with coming up with deep discounts and lucrative offers like “5-star hotel + flight starting at unbelievable prices’ ‘holiday now, pay later’, ‘holiday at zero EMI’ to motivate people to travel again. Charter flights will become more common. Hotels will make safety their priority, and innovate to make customers feel safe in their property. Read my detailed review on whether it is safe to stay in luxury hotels during coronavirus pandemic or not.
In a post-pandemic era, we can only expect to see heightened demand for travel flexibility. Whether it is booking a flight or a water villa in the Maldives, customers will have the last word. There will be more flexibility when it comes to booking and cancellations. You’ll be able to cancel or change your trip as late as 24 hours before your arrival without getting penalised.
Government has put a price cap on air tickets to stimulate air travel demand, which has dropped drastically due to hygiene concerns, lockdown guidance and quarantine rules. But once the restrictions are removed, and airlines are allowed to fly as per their standard capacity, air travel is bound to become expensive. Most airlines were loss-making ventures before COVID19 attacked, and now they are in a worse condition. Not only they had to employ cost-cutting methods such as salary cuts, mass layoffs and grounding aircrafts; they also had to beef up their safety and hygiene measures, which is a costly affair and flying a partially filled plane makes matters worse. So, be prepared to pay more once the flying demand picks up. The days of cheap flying are far from over. For more details on how airlines are coping up with the new reality post-COVID read the rise of sanitised travel.
In the coming months when international travel restrictions are lifted, new routes are announced by the airlines, and hotel groups put social distancing and hygiene measures in place ready to receive guests once more, travel insurance will become an important part of travel planning. Insurers have now started covering Covid-19 to reassure travellers that they won’t get stuck overseas or get bankrupt paying for their COVID19 treatment. Although ‘staycations’ may be the preferred holiday of choice for many this year, travel insurers are stepping up to meet consumer needs in terms of pandemic coverage – whether their trip is domestic or international.
In the end, all I can say is that COVID-19 – despite its negative impact on the tourism industry – can be used as a rare opportunity to fix problems that have long plagued the sector.
Do you agree that travel will change post lockdown for good? Do share your feedback in the comments section below.
The impact of Coronavirus pandemic has rattled everyone in the world of travel – be it the airlines, hotels, cruise ships, travel companies or destinations. Yet, despite the sudden, unprecedented strain placed on the industry, the sector’s agility to react and adapt according to the “new normal” is praiseworthy. Read this detailed review to know whether it is safe to stay in a luxury hotel during a pandemic and why this is the best time to book a luxurious weekend stay at Novotel Hyderabad Airport Hotel. A five-star hotel that comes loaded with enhanced safety measures, flexible cancellation policy and Best Price Guarantee.
The worldwide outbreak of COVID-19 has brought the world to a screeching halt, and tourism has been the worst affected of all major sectors. As per UNWTO, approximately 100 to 120 million direct tourism jobs are at risk, which makes 2020 by far the worst year for international tourism since 1950. However, after several months of lockdown, the sector is gingerly beginning to reopen. While it will take a couple of years to regain its preCOVID era glory, at least people have started enquiring about flying in 2020 and safe destinations to visit post covid19. The interesting thing is people want to travel – they are looking but not booking.
The feelings associated with travel have changed drastically all over the globe. For many, the simple idea of venturing out is fraught with anxiety, regardless of the current COVID19 situation and relaxing of travel restrictions. But others like me still feel the need to getaway. Before the pandemic outbreak, I had my travel calendar full up to October 2020 to exotic locations like the Arctic, Eurasia, Africa and Australia. But by July, after spending four months at home, I was tired of my four walls. I am pretty sure even my walls were tired of me. The idea of waking up in a different pin code felt fresh enough to book a quick weekend getaway.
Also, being an intrepid traveller, I am of the firm opinion that life cannot be lived in closed quarters forever. We have to move on at some point. My tipping point had arrived. Albeit before booking my trip, I conducted a great deal of advance research. Starting from choosing the right destination (a safe place where quarantine or COVID Test were not needed), to booking the right airline, hotel and activities carefully, and taking many, many steps to ensure my health and safety are not compromised at any point.
In this post, I’ll share my first-hand experience of trying the enhanced safety and hygiene protocols of Novotel Airport Hyderabad hotel. Moreover, you’ll get honest feedback on whether you should avoid non-essential travel or be brave enough to take a quick weekend trip.
Frankly, we are not 100% safe from the coronavirus, and it would be wrong to take it lightly. I was a bit anxious too, but once I was out of home, I felt I was in safe hands. Safety regulations were incorporated at every step of the journey. Interested to know how flying has changed? Read flying in 2020 – Is it safe to fly during COVID19?
While Airports and Airlines have regulations that make your journey contactless and a regular sanitisation process, Hotels like Novotel Hyderabad Airport Hotel have combined luxury and safety in a fresh way to bring the best experience to travellers, even in a pandemic. Here is my step-by-step experience of staying in a luxury hotel during a pandemic.
The pickup car at the airport had necessary Personal Protection Equipment like Antibacterial wipes, masks and gloves. Moreover, there was a transparent dividing shield between the driver and me to ensure contactless pickup. The drive to the airport was short and sweet.
Right at the main entrance, thermal scanning and hands sanitisation was done before I could enter the premise of the hotel, which was followed by another round of temperature check, Aarogya Setu App health status check, thorough sanitisation of my shoes, luggage, handbag and other contact points that can lead to a spread of infection. Hand sanitiser, face masks, gloves and disinfectant wipes were placed in all public spaces and room. The best part was the contactless check-in. I was directly handed over my room keys without any wait time since my verification was done online before I arrived. I heaved a sigh of relief when I saw that my UV sanitised room was sealed 24 hours before I opened it. The room had single-use cups for tea and coffee along with towels and personal care amenity kit that were kept in minimal numbers.
There couldn’t have been a better welcome drink than the immunity-boosting Kadha (an Ayurvedic drink made with herbs and spices) and Celery juice. And, it wasn’t just the welcome drink that was created keeping the new normal in mind, but all the meals were powered with immunity-boosting ingredients, thus providing the hotel guests with the best food to have during a pandemic.
Whether it was the room service personnel or the lobby manager, the Novotel Hyderabad Airport Hotel staff strictly followed ALL SAFE Hotel Safety Rules made especially for the pandemic, which reduce any threats due to contact points for both the travellers and them. Gloves, masks and sanitisers are must for the whole staff and I felt relieved to know that the kitchen staff always wear PPE kits while preparing or touching food. All kitchen tools are sanitised after every meal and soaked in chlorine water when not in use. Been positively fanatic about cleanliness I insisted on how they clean. I was relieved to know that Novotel Hyderabad Airport Hotel is perhaps the only hotel in Hyderabad that’s using a UV machine to clean crockery and guest rooms.
Even though I am neither a foodie nor a bad cook yet having the same ordinary food daily for four months had made my life a bit insipid. Like others, I too tried my best to become the Master Chef of my home by trying out new recipes every now and often. But I missed the joy of having delicious food served at hotels and the restaurants. And, I must confess my taste buds never felt so good as they felt when I tried different cuisines at Novotel restaurants. While all the meals were lip-smacking, a few stood out for me
High tea was a real high-end affair of flavours and fusion cooking at Novotel Hyderabad Convention Centre. The chef had given a modern twist to the traditional dishes by churning out delicacies such as Avocado Chaat on Savoury Bagel, Hyderabadi Toast, Podi Idly, Baked Gulab Jamun with Rabdi, Khubaani ka Meetha Tatin, and Osmania Biscuit with Irani Chai. At last, my craving for good food was satiated to the core here. But wait a minute – this was just the trailer. There was a lot more to come.
Hyderabad is world-famous for its native Deccani cuisine, and I got to try some authentic local delicacies such as Sabz Haleem, and Kesari Shorba at Mercure Hyderabad KCP. Other treats from the dinner menu included Malai Paneer, Sabz Hara Lolly and healthy options like multigrain Tikki. The raw banana Shami Kebab was the most sought after starter. The sumptuous meal was rounded off with a generous serving of the deserts – Pyaaz ki Rabri, Shahi Tukda and Rasmalai. Needless to say, after having so much food, I went into a food coma and slept like a Kumbhkaran.
Next day was greeted with a big fat South Indian Thalli having some unique items like Punugulu, Chitti Garelu, Pesarattu. The different varieties of chutneys made the meal even more delicious. I gulped down everything with a generous dose of coconut water and filter coffee. Lunch was again a riot of flavours. I’ll let the picture do the talking.
After a short trip to Hyderabad, I realised I need to go back just to enjoy its food. Meals like these can be turned into extraordinary ones if you’re travelling with your loved one. As per the Ministry of Home Affairs (MHA) guidelines, all buffets were cancelled, and bars were closed too.
Being an eternal optimist, I always try to find a silver lining around a dark cloud. One of the drawbacks of being a solo traveller is I often miss out on getting my own pictures clicked. So, since I was travelling after such a long time, I decided to do something different – I hired a professional photographer from ShootMe to capture some of my memories. After all, when I grow old, I would love to flaunt how ravishingly I sustained a global pandemic, “Once upon a time when the COVID19 Global pandemic stuck, I still managed to look pretty.”
Here, I would like to underline the fact that all the safety regulations were followed during the photoshoot for a safe and memorable experience:
So, this was my honest experience of taking a quick leisure break during a pandemic, but I can’t emphasis enough on the fact that the virus is still infecting people. And, the only way to contain this virus is by being careful and taking all the safety precautions – rigorous mask usage, sanitising after every interaction, social distancing, and if possible, get a Covid19 test done before you travel. It’s quickly and easily done these days. Today, I can proudly say that I had a good trip because the hotel and I took all the necessary precautions to not contribute to virus transmission.
Have you taken a vacation during the pandemic or planning to? Do you think it is safe to stay in a luxury hotel during a pandemic? Please do share your feedback in the comments section below.
Is Air travel during the Covid-19 pandemic risky? In this article, you’ll find a step-by-step guide on flying safely during Coronavirus outbreak.
For a person who is always-on-the-move and spends 60-70% time travelling, the five-month-long lockdown and travel restrictions to curb the coronavirus pandemic was like a death sentence. But sometimes drastic steps are required to fight drastic enemies, especially when it is a faceless enemy like COVID19. But does that mean we stay locked up forever? Not really. That’s not a long-lasting solution. So, I decided to not to postpone my outstation trip anymore and flew to Hyderabad during the COVID19 pandemic and came away impressed by how well IndiGo, Delhi Airport, and Novotel Hyderabad Airport Hotel are handling the social distancing and sanitisation.
As per the experts and my personal experience, the risk of contracting the virus when flying are slim to none because of the stringent safety measures put in place by the authorities. Despite being an enclosed space, the aeroplanes have not been the hotspot of the super spreading virus, at least so far. A road crash is ten times more likely to kill someone than getting infected by COVID-19 virus.
Does that mean flying is 100% safe? Not necessarily. After all, safety is relative and depends on a lot of external factors. But as India is unlocking in a phased manner, the only way to move forward through this long pandemic is to start evaluating the risk-benefit ratio and flying definitely poses very fewer risks as compared to the benefits it offers. The fact is more people are suffering from the pandemic induced economy collapse than the virus itself.
The good news is people want to travel, but they are a bit reluctant at the moment – they are looking but not booking. And, that is why, as a responsible citizen, I plan to clear all myths surrounding how safe is air travel, and how to go about it without sacrificing your health. Here is my step-by-step guide on flying safely during Coronavirus pandemic:
The most important thing before booking your ticket is to check the coronavirus travel restrictions by each state. Different state governments have laid out their respective protocols for passengers arriving at their airports. Some require you to have a mandatory COVID19 negative test report not older than 48 hours’ others will quarantine you for 7-10 days, and some might not have any restrictions at all. Many states such as Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan, Telangana, Karnataka, and Delhi among others will not require you to quarantine if you are a business/corporate traveller travelling for a short duration (24 hours -7days).
Please do check the coronavirus travel restrictions by each state before booking your ticket. It’s better to get clarity beforehand than being turned back from the airport or spend days locked up in a mandatory institution or home quarantine for a 2-3-day trip.
Once you have checked the state-wise regulations and booked your tickets, you are required to download the Aarogya Setu app, declare your health status online, and web check-in 48 hrs to 60 mins before your flight time. Reach 2 hours before your flight wearing a mask and carrying a printed or soft copy of your boarding pass and baggage tag.
As per the latest guidelines issued by the Directorate General of Civil Aviation (DGCA) airlines are empowered to put those passengers on the ‘no-fly list’ who violate the standard operating procedures (SOPs) or do not wear masks during a flight. This means you will no longer be allowed to fly if you don’t wear masks or comply with the COVID related protocols.
One important thing to be remembered while flying is that wearing a face mask is compulsory to enter the airport, and you are required to continue wearing it at all times. So, I was masked up from the moment I got out of my home. Also, as per the travel mandates, I was wearing gloves and carrying a bottle of hand sanitiser.
As soon as I arrived at the Delhi Airport, I found markers and regular announcements reminding the passengers to practice social distancing. Right from the airport entrance to the baggage drop counter, boarding gates, coaches, toilets, food courts, shopping outlets, toilets and baggage claim, everywhere, social distancing markings were put up.
My luggage was disinfected through an Ultraviolet (UV) light disinfection tunnel, post which contactless experience became a norm wherever I went. Thermal screening and Aarogya Setu app status were checked both at the departure as well as arrival gates.
Since food and drinks aren’t allowed during the flight, I had a quick bite at the food court, where social distancing was in full swing.
At the boarding gate, I was given a Personal Protective Kit (PPE) containing a face shield, mask and some sachets of sanitiser. To have a contactless experience, we had to self-scan our boarding passes and our boarding was done sequentially based on our seating arrangement to maintain social distancing.
The most impressive thing about the whole flying experience was how thoroughly the aircraft was sanitised and disinfected before and after every flight. Every possible touchpoint such as the baggage drop counters, boarding gates, wheelchairs, coaches, aircraft, crew vehicles, ramps were cleaned with approved cleaning agents. The tray tables, armrests, seats, overhead nozzles, lavatories, and even the small switch overhead was thoroughly cleaned before and after every flight.
Before booking a flight, I had done my background research to find out whether it is safe for travelling by air during a pandemic. And guess what? I found that nearly all aircraft today have very sophisticated air filters called High-Efficiency Particulate Air (HEPA) filters, which catch 99.999% of viruses and bacteria, including the coronavirus. Moreover, the cabin air is also replaced with new fresh air from outside every three minutes. You breathe on board the same quality as in an operating room at a hospital. In the usual scenario, there is a 1:4300 chance of contracting COVID-19 on a two-hour, packed flight. And, adding the additional protection layer of a face shield, and mask makes it even more challenging to catch a virus.
Luckily, my entire row was empty. However, in case the flight is full, the middle seat passenger is given the complete PPE kit to have maximum safety. Moreover, the crew on board was wearing appropriate PPE kits and serving the passengers with all safety measures in place. As per the domestic flying norms, no food or beverages were served on board.
As per an order issued by the Civil Aviation Ministry under Unlock 4.0, “Airlines may serve pre-packed snacks/meals/pre-packed beverages on domestic flights depending on the duration of the flight,” and serve alcohol and hot meals on international flights.
Whether you arrive at the terminal through aerobridge or coach, social distancing was a top priority, and there was a PPE dispose-off bin at the entrance gate right after disembarking from the plane.
At the baggage collection area, there were clear markings to maintain social distancing, and an IndiGo staff member was there to help incoming passengers. And, not just that the social distance markings were put at all transport waiting areas and all taxi providers needed to follow the sanitisation and disinfection SOPs before entering the airport.
While the authorities have put in all the necessary measures to safeguard our travel journey, we – the travellers – are slacking a bit. Despite repeated announcements made by the airport staff, I saw some travellers openly flouting social distancing norms. It is clearly mentioned that at a given time, not more than two people should get into an elevator, yet I saw a family of six squeezed-in together. Another very common sight is of people standing up as soon as the aeroplane comes to a halt as if they’ll be left behind if they don’t deplane immediately.
Maintaining social distancing, wearing a mask and sanitising regularly are required for our own safety. We should be a little more responsible.
The aviation industry is taking every possible precaution to minimise physical contact and give us a Lean Clean Flying Machine experience. So, it won’t be wrong to say that flying is safe in the times of corona, provided the safety precautions are fully adhered by one and all. Here’s a video explaining my flying experience with IndiGO.
Have you flown during the pandemic or planning to? How was your experience? Please do share your feedback in the comments section below.
I was invited to experience IndiGo’s Lean Clean Flying Machine. However, everything expressed above is based on my personal experience, and all the images are shot by me. Please don’t use any image or text without my written permission.
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Sunil Sharma
Delhi
This is not a typical luxury travel agency — this is travel with soul. They take care of the minutest details and customise the tiniest things for us. I have travelled with them to Japan, Finland, Costa Rica, Russia and the Philippines.
Aman
Mumbai
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Luxury travel should feel seamless from start to finish.
Begin with our online form. We then connect for a detailed conversation
No booking fees. Ever.
We fine-tune your bespoke itinerary until it feels perfect.
With confidence, care, and 24/7 on-ground support throughout your journey.