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E X P L O R E | D I S C O V E R | T R A V E L

Kota Kinabalu, the capital of the state of Sabah, Malaysia is often overlooked in favour of Kuala Lampur, Penang or Langkawi. Find out why it’s an ideal destination for a short break.
The Pride of Sabah - Mount Kinabalu

The Pride of Sabah – The Mount Kinabalu is the highest peak in South East Asia

Sometimes the best adventures in life are unplanned. Multiple experiences have reinforced this belief in me and the Kota Kinabalu experience was no exception. Thanks to a busy work life, I had no time to read about Kota Kinabalu and also plan for it. Additionally, I wasn’t too kicked about this trip because of the hangover of my splendid Vietnam trip. I was mentally reliving my Vietnam moments. Also, to tell you the truth I was kind of forced into booking this trip because a friend desperately wanted to travel out of Philippines and wanted me to accompany her but she chickened out at the last moment and this ended up becoming yet another solo trip.

I had two options. Either to cancel my trip or venture into the unexplored. I chose the latter, like I always do! A few adjustments were made- a luxury hotel was swapped for a hostel, budget was doubled and more importantly, I became the pilot rather than a mere co-passenger.

It is natural for you to wonder when I say that Kota Kinabalu is the best place for unplanned travel. It is not without reasons and here are three of them:

1.Travel Easy

Kota Kinabalu is well connected with frequent low cost flights (at attractive prices) from all major cities in South East Asia. You can reach Kota Kinabalu in 2-2.5 hrs from most of them and within 15 minutes, the city centre. Most hotspots in the city are within walking distance and the distant ones can be covered with the pretty good public transport. You can either choose a city bus or a minivan or a taxi to get around. For traveling out of KK there are long distance buses or taxis available quite easily.

Public Transport, Kota Kinabalu

Public Transport, Kota Kinabalu

2. One place. Assorted Experiences

Kota Kinabalu is a ‘Nature Resort City’ located on the tropical island of Borneo, Malaysia, which possesses the natural treasure of unique ethnic cultures, endearing hospitality of friendly and English speaking locals, sumptuous cuisine from around the world, breathtaking marine and exotic preservations. And if you go a little further from KK you’ll find incredible landscape variety.

It is a living Biodiversity island comprising of a complex ecosystem with mangroves stretching till the eyes can see, tropical rain-forests with great trails, majestic Mount Kinabalu with crisp air and marvelous view, marshlands with astounding natural beauty, unending rivers with abundant wildlife, pristine long sandy beaches, paradise islands and virgin coral reefs among other natural wonders. I’ve never come across such rich variety!

Kota Kinabalu offers wide variety of experiences to choose from

Kota Kinabalu offers wide variety of experiences to choose from

3. Suits any kind of budget

Kota Kinabalu is one place which caters to all kind of travelers. Basis your pocket you can choose your accommodation and tours. While the best place to stay at Kota Kinabalu is Shangri-la’ Rasa Ria Resort you can always have your pick from a wide variety of hotels, Hostels, Motels, B&B or house apartments to suit any budget.

Stay Options, Kota Kinabalu

Accommodation options for every budget at Kota Kinabalu

I hope the above mentioned reasons have convinced you to come on board with me to virtually relive those beautiful moments again. I am breaking this adventure into three parts.

Here is the first installment:

DAY ONE

On 27th Nov, 2015 I boarded the as usual delayed Cebu Pacific flight to reach Kota Kinabalu. Even at wee hours, the Masada Backpacker hostel staff welcomed me with great smile and open arms. The hostel was neat and clean with travelers from across the world. The breakfast was not bad. I inquired about things to do around Kota Kinabalu.  The friendly hostel staff suggested lot of DIY trips and group tours. I was still kind of exhausted from not having slept last night so I decided to opt for a seemingly comfortable fully planned half day tour to Mari Mari Cultural Village. At sharp 1.30 pm a van arrived at the hostel to pick me up.

Now let me tell you why I chose Mari Mari cultural village over a wildlife river cruise or Sepilok Orang Utan Centaury or North Borneo Railway tour.

Mari Mari Village Cultural Show

Mari Mari Cultural Village is located deep in the countryside away from the hustle bustle of the Kota Kinabalu city. The village operates as a museum that preserves Borneo ethnic culture. It aims to share the knowledge, history, culture, and tradition of Borneo with the world at large so that it is not forgotten. Thanks to this tour I got an opportunity to see and experience the culture and lifestyle of how the indigenous ethnic groups of Borneo used to live in the olden days when they were oblivious to electricity and other modern day comforts.

The village features 5 different ethnic tribes in one village. They are the rice farmer Kadazan – Dusun, the longhouse resident Rungus, the hunters and fisherman Lundayeh, the cowboy and sea gypsy Bajau, and the famously feared headhunting tribe Murut. It was the headhunting tribe that caught my attention and instead of opting for a scenic sea or land tour I opted for this cultural tour. And I am so glad I took it. It was very insightful tour and got to taste some great local freshly made food and wine. However, the icing on the cake was at the end – the Bamboo Musical Orchestra and ethnic Dance performance. Even today when I close my eyes and think about that day I can still hear the musical notes playing in my ears. Yes, it was that magnificent.

Mari Mari Village cooking

Mari Mari Village Tribal way of cooking, Kota Kinabalu

Mari Mari Village Ethnic Tribal way of Making Wine

Mari Mari Village Ethnic Tribal way of Making Wine

The Colour Filipino Sea Gypsy Bajau Tribe Hut - the wedding ceremony place

The wedding ceremony hut of the Bajau Tribe, Mari Mari Village, Kota Kinabalu

Dusun – the Head Hunting Tribe, used to cut the head of thieves and display it at their entrance

While returning from the Mari Mari Village I decided to catch the sunset at Signal Hill, the highest point in the city, which is one of the best places to get a good view of Kota Kinabalu at that golden hour. And when the day transformed into night instead of taking the longer path running parallel to road I took the shorter walkway trail from the jungle. In 5 minutes I was at the base. Though I was the only one walking on that trail, it was well lit

Kota Kinabalu City View from the Signal Hill

Kota Kinabalu City Top View from the Signal Hill

Sunset at Signal Hill, Kota Kinabalu

Sunset seen from the Signal Hill, Kota Kinabalu

Signal Hill to City Trail

Jungle Trail from Signal Hill to Kota Kinabalu City

Despite the sumptuous high tea at the Mari Mari Cultural Village , hunger pangs were awake. I decided to visit the “foodies and romantics” one-stop dining and entertainment destination – the Waterfront. It has plenty of food options to choose from – from fresh South East Asian style Seafood to the Indian cuisine to authentic Chinese food to Spanish food to Mexican food to fusion food to local Malay food. You name it and The Waterfront has it. The place comes alive at night, as besides being a good wining and dining place, it is a great place to watch the sun set over the South China Sea. The craving to have a piping hot gulab jamun made me choose Kohinoor Restaurant over others. But my craving wasn’t satisfied as they ran out of Gulab jamuns. So I ordered the next best thing on the menu – Gajar ka halwa 🙂 The food was OK. I found it spicy but not tasty. The manager and staff were friendly.

Kohinoor Restaurant at KK

Kohinoor, The North Indian Cuisine Restaurant at Kota Kinabalu

The Waterfront seen from the Kohinoor, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah

The Waterfront View seen from the Kohinoor, Kota Kinabalu

For people who don’t want to spend too much on food and view there are always cheaper options available. Being a cosmopolitan city you can enjoy on an array of culinary delights from all over South East Asia when you dine at the Kota Kinabalu Night Market popularly known as “Pasar malam”.

Night market

Night market at Kota Kinabalu

Malaysia is popular among Indians and Pakistani immigrants therefore you can easily spot Indian subcontinent restaurants and departmental stores in by lanes selling every kind of spice you require to make your famous Indian curry. One piece of advice – when you relish your Idli sambhar vada don’t be Grammar Nazi 😛

Indian Restaurant in Kota Kinabalu Market

Indian Restaurant at Kota Kinabalu Market

And if after a sumptuous meal you are in a mood to shop, there is always the night market waiting for you.

Night Market at KK

Night Shopping Market at Kota Kinabalu

So that was a much relaxed Day-1 for me.

The next two days were far more adventurous. Day 2 has been etched in my memory for FOREVER. Super fun. Super adventurous. Super scary too.

Do wait for the next chapter in this series that combines adventure, fun and some scary moments!

TRAVEL TIPS

  1. WHAT TO DO: Climb Mount Kinabalu, Sandakan Wildlife Day Tour, Mari Mari Cultural Village Tour, Island Hopping in Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park, Sunday Gaya Market, Seafood at Night Filipino Market, Sunset viewing at Signal Hill, Proboscis Monkeys & Fireflies River Cruise
  2. HOW TO TRAVEL: Taxis for local travel. Mini vans or shared taxis for day tours. Long distance buses for visiting other Borneo attractions. Train for scenic view. Boats for island hopping
  3. WHAT TO EAT: Being a vegetarian I did not try the local delicacies but I was told when in KK one must try Kon Lau Mee, a popular egg noodle dish served with your choice of pork or chicken and Tom Yamseafood noodle soup.
  4. WHERE TO EAT: Shangri-La Rasa Resort for luxury dinning, the waterfront restaurants for mid-price fine dining or night market located at Jalan Tun Fuad Stephen for fresh and cheap seafood.
  5. WHAT TO WEAR: Comfortable cotton clothes. Western wear is acceptable. But be considerate about the local people. Though Kota Kinabalu has sizeable population following different religions, a majority follows Islam, so try not to wear too revealing clothes. If not properly dressed you’ll have to rent out a burqa and hijab at the mosques.
  6. WHAT TO SHOP: Borneo Orang Utan or the Mountain man Souvenirs, Sabah tea and aromatic Tenom coffee
  7. WHERE TO SHOP: The Handicraft Market for inexpensive souvenirs. Don’t forget to wear your bargain hat when you visit this market. For clothes and branded shop at Centre Point, Suria Sabah Shopping Mall, Oceanus Waterfront Mall and Imago Mall

sabah-map

Singapore - 1

Singapore has been on my travel list for a long time but somehow I always chose the more alluring Europe or Australia over it. So when finally I got a chance to explore it I was happy but wasn’t going gaga over the impending experience. I had heard a lot, seen a lot and read a lot about Singapore and I knew there was hardly anything offbeat to be explored here. But boy was I so wrong! Einstein had said imagination is more important than knowledge and so I set out to Singapore, applying what he said. This travelogue summarizes why Einstein is mostly right 🙂

So hop on the time machine and travel back in time with me, to Singapore or Singa Pura, as it was called back then.

The day I landed in Singapore I knew it was going to be one heck of a trip when after one and a half hours of leaving the airport I realised that I was missing one bag. I was stressed and I called up the Changi airport helpline. Changi Airport is not renowned for being one of the world’s best airports for no reason. Their staff’s prompt response made me a fan of theirs for life. And by the way, it is such a beautiful airport that you can spend days exploring it and still not get bored. Anyway, we’ll talk about this topic in detail sometime later. Let’s get back to our story.

After exploring all the touristy spots like Santosa Island, Marina Bay, The Merlion, Garden by the Bay, Botanical Gardens, Night Safari, Little India, Clarke Quay and other attractions I wanted to see something which not many people had seen so I kept probing my hostel guys about the offbeat places in Singapore. And thanks to them and some help from Google Guruji I zeroed in on exploring Pulau Ubin.

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Pulau Ubin Island Entrance, Singapore

Pulau Ubin tucked away far from the glitzy malls and swanky city life of the mainland Singapore is an island off eastern Singapore and often considered the last ‘kampung’ (village) in Singapore. The name Pulau Ubin means “Granite Island” in Malay. Until the 1960s it was used for quarrying granite. But thanks to a decline in quarrying since the 1970s, a slice of ancient Singapore has remained preserved – a retreat for nature lovers and adventure seekers. It is a treasure trove of biodiversity, where six or more major habitats meet and mix. An overgrown and rugged landscape with a small number of wooden, old-style Malay and Chinese kampongs (villages) where around 100 residents live who speak only Chinese and don’t understand even basic English, Pulau Ubin seems to have somehow missed the detriments of time, aging.

My Pulau Ubin journey didn’t start on a good note. The Chinese driver of the bus, who didn’t understand English, dropped me at a wrong Ferry terminal. It was a military area and there was nobody in sight so I walked up to the ferry terminal and asked the army personnel to let me in. Singapore’s founding father Lee Kuan Yew had passed away that day and perhaps that was the reason he was in such a foul mood. He told me it wasn’t the ferry terminal for civilians. When I asked him where the right one was he got really worked up and said he’s not Google. I should use my smartphone. I didn’t expect that coming from a government servant. Being the hothead I gave him my piece of mind,

“I am sorry if you are having a bad day. But being an army personnel it is your duty to protect the pride of your country. By talking rudely with a foreigner you are leaving a very bad impression about your country. I am not asking you to do me a big favour. Being nice to strangers is the smallest act of kindness anyone can do.”

I said that and rushed back to the road without even waiting for his response. Though I showed immense courage to utter those words I was shit scared from within. There was no soul visible on the road. What if he abducts me? Kills me? Throws me in the ocean? Nobody would get a whiff about me. But those were, of course, devilish thoughts, inspired by the countless hours spent watching murder drama on tv and youtube. (Un)Luckily, nothing of that kind drama happened.

After waiting for some time in the open that was turning out to be a hot furnace of a day, a taxi came to my rescue. After a wait of an hour, I took the ferry to the Pulau Ubin terminal.

Pulau Ubin Jetty at Changi Terminal - 1

Changi Terminal from where ferry goes to Pulau Ubin, Singapore

Getting off the “bumboat” ferry onto Pulau Ubin’s narrow wooden jetty was a welcome change from the hustle bustle of a city life. A signboard was placed right at the entrance for visitors’ guidance.

Pulau Ubin Island First look - 1

Sea View from Pulau Ubin, Singapore

Pulau Ubin entrance - 1

Pulau Ubin Ferry Station, Singapore

Just a few metres away from the shore a tiny village with a few single-storey wooden restaurants decked up in traditional Chinese décor and bike rental shops welcomed you.

Pulau Ubin's lone restaurant - 1

The lone restuarant, Pulau Ubin, Singapore

Pulau Ubin shop - 1

Pulau Ubin cucle stand - 1

Cycle renting shops, Pulau Ubin, Singapore

When you visit Pulau Ubin make sure you don’t forget to carry a good pair of healthy lungs and strong legs. Bicycles or walking are the ways to get around on the island. There are hardly any motorized vehicles to be found on the island. Off late Pulau Ubin has become popular with mountain bikers, thanks to the 10 km all weather mountain biking trail in the 45-hectare Ketam Mountain Bike Park, which has solidified the island’s unofficial title of “Bicycle Island”.

The cyclists - 1

Ketam Mountain Bike Park, Pulau Ubin, Singapore

pathway

Pulau Ubin Cycle Park, Singapore

I was not in a mood to walk or ride so I opted for a van rental for 20$ for a pickup and drop at Chek Jawa Wetlands. Unfortunately, the guy didn’t even understand simple numbers. So my pick up time was completely messed up.

Like Alice, I was walking all alone in the wonderland when I heard a feeble chatter. The chatter became audible and the best part-it was in English. I followed my ear and they led me to a handsome English model and fashion photographer. I asked them for directions and they offered me to accompany them. I was sorted! From feeling lost on the island, I was now on a guided tour of the 100-hectare Chek Jawa wetland. We walked through the 1.1-kilometer board walkway getting amazed by the corals’ reef and rich marine life. The end of the walkway leads us to the 21-meter tall viewing tower from where we not only got to see a 360 degree top view of the entire park but also saw some interesting species of birds.

Chek Jawa Wetlands, Pulau Ubin

Chek Jawa Wetlands, Pulau Ubin, Singapore

Chek Jawa Wetlands bridge, Pulau Ubin

Chek Jawa Wetlands, Pulau Ubin, Singapore

Viewing Deck

Viewing Deck at Chek Jawa Wetlands, Pulau Ubin, Singapore

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Wooden Pathway, Chek Jawa Wetlands, Pulau Ubin, Singapore

Pulau Ubin Viewing Deck

On top of the Viewing deck, Chek Jawa Wetlands, Pulau Ubin, Singapore

After one and a half hour of walk, we reached the van drop-off point but my driver was nowhere in sight and I didn’t even have a working phone so I decided to hitch with the boys. We alighted at the old quarry. While the boys were busy shooting, I shared my pleasantries and went circumnavigating the island on my own.

Pulau Ubin Fauna

query 2

Old Quarry, Pulau Ubin, Singapore

Quary

Old Quarry, Pulau Ubin, Singapore

The birds at Pulau Ubin - 1

Old Quarry, Pulau Ubin, Singapore

While walking through the island I felt as if i was back in Sixties Singapore. No high rise buildings. No traffic jam. No rush to reach anywhere. It was a much needed welcome break to walk on the rustic roads under swaying coconut palms, exploring shady trails in overgrown rubber plantations, checking out secluded beaches and flourishing mangroves. Since I was kind of alien in this hidden paradise i decided to do what was best – soak into the sensorial pleasure of the Pulau Ubin. I wandered around the Singapore’s last kampongs and admired the rustic beauty and simplicity of a bygone era. There was a playing area for the kids and a place to worship.

walkaway

Amidst the Greens of Pulau Ubin - 1

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the playing platform for kids - 1

It was the world out of the world. Very calm. Very peaceful. All I could hear were birds chirping. No sound of any human or roaring engine. I looked around with the curious eyes of a lost child. I wanted to spend a night at the island but I wasn’t carrying any camping gear so I decided to catch the last ferry back to Singapore.

I was a happy person. Pulau Ubin reinstated my belief that being authentic, unspoiled and rustic is being beautiful not just in the NOW but in FOREVER.

Taking this valuable lesson I walked out of the wild with a strong desire to travel soon into the unknown because it’s usually the unknown that reveals you with yourself.

So can I expect you to explore the ancient part of Singapore when you visit this South East Asian Lion country?

TRAVEL TIPS

  1. Carry you packaged food and lots of water. Though there is a restaurant at the entrance, none in the park
  2. Some of its marine ecosystems appear only during low tides. Plan your visit better by finding the timing of the tides before you visit
  3. Bus services are infrequent. Keep a tab on them The nearest MRT Station is Pasir Ris from where you have to take a bus or a taxi to go to Changi Ferry terminal. From there take a “bumboat“ ferry to Pulau Ubin
  4. You can either rent a bicycle or carry you’re your own
  5. If possible learn few basic words in Chinese to speak to the locals
  6. Wear comfortable shoes as you’ll be walking/riding a lot
  7. Camp or spend some time on the unspoiled beaches of the island – Noordin Beach, Mamam Beach, or Jelutong Beach
  8. Bring lots of insect repellent and respect wildlife. Wild boars and monkeys are all over the park
  9. Carry cash. There are no ATMs or card swiping machines here.
  10. Carry a good quality camera. The island is a photography heaven

Disclaimer:

  1. I Won the Singapore Invites Contest with Singapore Tourism Board for this story and I was hosted with my family at Cornard Hotel at Singapore and I flew by Singapore Airlines
  2. All the views expressed here are my own and basis my personal experience there. All pictures are taken by me

zealandia bird sanctuary, wellinton1
New Zealand
, the very name invokes the images of Lord of the rings, Rugby and Bungee jumping. It is one of those places on earth where Hrithik Roshan danced his way into our hearts and stardom. His dance and Lord of the rings added another destination to our bucket list. Over the years, New Zealand has gained a lot of popularity amongst many travellers but still remains a dream for the majority. So join Travel See Write on a whirlwind New Zealand Trip that takes you through the middle earth and also through some sights and sounds that are not found anywhere else.

New Zealand, the home of middle earth, made popular by the Lord of the Rings Trilogy and Hobbit series is a stunning country that lives up to its hype and turns out to be better than what can be seen on the iMax cinema screen or your mobile screen. The country of landscapes, active volcanoes, island sanctuaries is the adventure capital of the world and will enthrall you with its awe-inspiring myriad experiences. Exploring it in a week is an injustice to the unmatched beauty of this Kiwi land but as they say, something is better nothing. So if you have only a week on hand to explore New Zealand then go on an unforgettable Road Trip for a 100% Pure New Zealand Experience.

Let’s get started on understanding the geography of New Zealand.

North and South Islands, New Zealand

New Zealand is divided into two islands – North and South Island. If you are hard pressed on time and want to explore different kinds of experiences within a week, then opt for a self-drive trip from the Northern tip (Auckland) to the southern tip (Wellington) or vice versa in the North Island of New Zealand. And if you have time in hand then you should cover the entire mainland.

If you can, spend a month in New Zealand. For an ultimate one month travel do refer to this New Zealand Itinerary

Here is the itinerary for a 7 days 100% Pure New Zealand Road Trip. Hop on to relive the moments.

DAY 1 & 2, WELLINGTON

The Coolest little capital of the world

Like millions of travelers, Lonely planet too got smitten by the charm of this beautiful capital city of New Zealand when they gave this title to Wellington. Situated at the southern end of the North Island, Wellington has a lot to offer and in fact you can spend an entire month exploring it and still find new reasons to fall in love with it every single day. From watching the surreal golden and blue hour at the top of Mount Victoria to riding the historical cable car to getting behind-the-scenes glimpse of larger than life LOTR movie making at Weta Workshop to taking a walk at Oriental Bay.

Phew. I could go on and on. Wellington is a city unlike a city where natural beauty is still unspoiled and where people always greet you with warm smiles. Though two days are not enough for this quaint little mystic land but it gives you enough time to cover the popular spots before the epic road trip begins.

View-of-Wellington-from-mt-victoria-matairangi1

New Zealand Trip: Bird’s eye view of Wellington from Mt. Victoria, New Zealand

View of Wellington from Mt Victoria Matairangi, New Zealand

New Zealand Trip: View of Wellington from Mt Victoria Matairangi, New Zealand

DAY 3, 4 & 5, ROTORUA

The first condition of understanding a foreign country is to smell it

Had Rudyard Kipling heard about Rotorua he would have never made this statement. Because sometimes judging a book by its cover (in this case the smell) can be truly misleading. If one were to go by the smell then no one would ever visit Rotorua. But sometimes your biggest weakness can be your biggest strength. Rotorua is renowned for its geothermal activity – bubbling mud pools, shooting geysers, natural hot springs and buried village. The geothermal activity gives off an odor unique to Rotorua. Besides explosive geysers, Rotorua has crystal-clear streams, magnificent forests and epic biking trails.

If you are an adventure-seeker then Rotorua will offer you plenty of adventure. White water rafting is so yesterday. How about doing black water rafting and if that’s not enough be spellbound by glowworm caves at Waitomo. And if you like water rafting then go rafting in the Kaituna River which boasts of the Highest Commercially Rafted Waterfall (7m) in the World. Before you attack the big boy you’ll get to practice by maneuvering through 2 smaller waterfalls among the 14 rapids. It is one heck of an adrenaline activity that you’ll never forget. You would want to stay more in this little wonderland but the smell would play a spoilsport. And you’ll probably be back on the road to your final destination.

Kaituna River rafting which has world's tallest commercially rafted waterfall

New Zealand Trip: Kaituna River rafting which has world’s tallest commercially rafted waterfall

Raft at the Kaituna river which has worlds tallest commercially rafted waterfall

Natural Geysers, Rotorua, New Zealand

New Zealand Trip: Natural Geysers, Rotorua

Rotorua-Natural-Geysers

Rotorua Natural Geysers, New Zealand

Waitomo-Glowworm-caves

Waitomo Glowworm caves. Ideal for black water rafting as well, New Zealand.

DAY 6 & 7, AUCKLAND

The city of sails – One city. Plethora of experiences.

Imagine living in a city of where everyone lives within half an hour of beautiful beaches, never ending hiking trails and enchanting islands. Where instead of showing off your big toys people carry their impressive yachts and sailboats. Where people live with harmony and have great taste for food, wine and shopping. No wonder Auckland is becoming a migration magnet. If you are an adventure freak like me then instead of just climbing the Auckland Sky Tower for the view and food (yes they too have a restaurant at the top), jump off from it.

Auckland Harbour Bridge is another great option for bungee jumping. You cannot not miss doing bungee jumping in New Zealand – the birthplace of the adventure sport. Spending the New Year’s Eve watching the fireworks at Auckland Tower is a great experience to welcome the New Year. If you are an art lover and want to know more about the Kiwi culture don’t miss the Auckland Art Gallery.

city-view-from-auckland-sky-tower

City view from Auckland Sky Tower, New Zealand

Auckland City View, New Zealand

Auckland City View, New Zealand

NYR-fireworks-at-the-sky-towerSo what are you waiting for? It’s’ going to be summer time in New Zealand and is the perfect time to explore the land of blackcaps. So go ahead and do yourself a favour.

Bashal peak, SarahanIt has been fifteen months since I returned from my adventurous trek to the Bashal Peak but the memory of that adrenaline pumping but frightening journey is very vivid in my memory. It was one of my most satisfying backpacking journey. It is time to re-live the journey along with you, my dear reader.

On the night of 26th June 2014, Thursday, five strangers and I took an HPTDC bus to Shimla, from where we took a local bus to Rampur. The whole journey was quite arduous since we had booked ourselves in a local HPTDC bus. But in spite of the peak season of summers it wasn’t hot but pleasant. We were enjoying the journey. The only complainants were the road humps. After reaching Rampur, our bus took an hour long halt where we gorged on the local snacks. We reached Jeori at lunch time and proceeded towards Sarahan. The best thing about traveling in Himachal is that you are always accompanied by gorgeous rivers. In this case it was River Sutlej.

Let me be honest here, I had not heard about Sarahan before and that’s probably the reason why I enjoyed this trip so much. Sarahan is one of the lesser known non touristy places in Himachal Pradesh. It is the gateway to Kinnaur and the base for numerous treks. It is a place where spirituality, tranquility and natural beauty meet. Sarahan is an ideal destination for a long weekend break. It being non popular ads to its idyllic charm. And thank god for that. Mostly a transit destination on the Shimla – Sangla – Kinnaur – Spiti Valley Route, Sarahan is well connected by road and is surrounded by beautiful snow clad Himalayan Peaks.

The lone hotel at Sarahan, Hotel Shrikhand (HPTDC owned Guesthouse) was completely sold out so we had no other option but to stay at a local homestay, which wasn’t bad. The room was basic but neat and clean. Super tired after our 16 hours of journey, we hogged onto lunch at Hotel Shrikhand as if we had not had a meal in ages. The simple dal-roti seemed the tastiest meal in the world.

We then summoned our shutterbugs and mobile cameras to capture the scintillating beauty of this sleepy town. Our first pitstop was the revered Bhimakali temple, one of the Fifty One sacred Shakti peeths. The temple’s unusual architecture and unique carvings have made it a resplendent example of the 800 years old Indo-Tibetan art.

Bhimakali Temple, Sarahan

800 years old Bhimakali Temple, Sarahan

After marveling at the temple’s architecture for a while, we strolled on the Indo-Tibetan road for few hours. Once we were dead tired, we returned to our base and after an early dinner of thupka and veg thalli at a local dhaba, we called it a night to start early for our morning trek. We were waiting for the beautiful trek to reveal itself.

Dhabba Food at Sarahan

Dhabba Food at Sarahan

With stomach full with various kinds of paranthas, made with freshly plucked vegetables from the farm and packed lunches, we started our Bashal peak trek with two local guides at 6 am. As we ascended the Apple and Apricot Orchards gave way to slopes ridden with the deodhar trees. There were few huts of Gaddi Sherpas with their Shepherd dogs guarding their cattles. There was no marked trek route. During the trek our Guides told us that very few people trek this peak as it is not an easy trek and has many wild animals. It was an uphill trek and was becoming too taxing for many of our group members to continue. However, Prachi, the leader of our pack kept us motivated with her words. And as if the physical strain wasn’t enough, we got the first taste of fear when we saw few people carrying a dead body of a person who was killed by a bear last night. We shivered with fear but no one was ready to turn back. We continued our onward journey. During the trek we heard lot of wild animals. We were shit scared and tired as hell but determined not to give it up. At the midpoint of the trek, we reached “baba jee ki kutiya”. As If the wild animals weren’t a threat enough, the weather turned truant and cold. Baba jee was generous enough to treat us with hot tea and entertained us with his mystical stories for which Baba Jees are known.

Start of the Bashal Peak trek from Sarahan

Start of the Bashal Peak trek from Sarahan

After an hours’ break, we continued our trek as we wanted to be back before night. Finally around 5 pm we reached the Bashal Peak. We were tired but the view was breathtaking. On the Bashal peak there were trees of smooth birch and variety of wild flowers and rare medicinal herbs. The top of the peak was submerged in clouds and we were actually walking through giant clouds. While most of you were busy watching the Keanau Reeves starrer “walk in the clouds”, I was busy walking through them 🙂 Visibility was very low – not even 100 metres and it was getting darker.

me at bashal peak

Finally at the Bashal Peak, Sarahan

Wild herbs, Bashal Peak, Sarahan

Wild herbs, Bashal Peak, Sarahan

View from Bashal

Kinnaur Valley View from Bashal Peak, Sarahan

Dark clouds started descending  upon us. Even though we wanted to stay there for longer, we had no option but to descend. Since it was an area abound with wild animals we decided to stay together, irrespective of the individual speeds we were trekking with. As we were descending, it started pouring like cats and dogs. It was pitch dark and we were completely drenched, super tired because of the hike. There was no shelter and the slope became too slippery. Every one of us  started falling one by one. Our torch lights died. We were breathless and our water had finished. There was a strong chance of encountering wild animals, snakes and leeches. In a nutshell we were in a soup. This wasn’t the kind of adventure we had imagined. On top of that some of the group members started getting too hyper and scared. We were all praying to reach home safely. There was absolutely no mobile connectivity so we could not even contact anyone for help. Thankfully our guides thought of a plan. They took a detour via their village, a cluster of 2-3 houses in the middle of nowhere. Although it increased our journey time by few hours, this path was relatively safer than the path we took during our ascent. We rested for a while at the village. We had water, much needed to pacify our fears and parched throats and then continued our downward journey. Our bodies had given up. Our feet were not ready to march ahead but we didn’t want to spend a night in the Jungle becoming the dinner of wild animals so we kept walking.

Around 10:30 pm we reached the upper part of the Sarahan town. Again, our guides came to our rescue, they called cars to fetch us and had woken up their family members to cook dinner for us. I am a big fan of Himachali people as they go out of their way to make you feel comfortable. And this incident wasn’t an exception. We would have not been able to have this amazing experience had these local guides not been there.

Next day, we were so tired with the day before adventure that instead of traveling back through local HPTDC bus, we decided to splurge and hire a Jeep to go to Shimla. As a token of gesture, our guides gave us loads of freshly plucked apricots (khumani). We enjoyed our trip stopping at multiple picturesque locations, clicking lot of pictures and buying local cherries and fruit.

We reached Shimla at around 5 pm and we had almost two hours to spend. Hence we decided to stroll on the Mall Road. But what a bad idea it turned out to be. There was a long queue at the lift that takes you to the Mall Road and then it started pouring. We took respite in an Italian place, Wake and Bake café, and had amazing pasta and Espresso Coffee. The long queue at the lift delayed our plans to catch our bus from the new bus stand. We were running against the time. We ran like Milka Singh to catch a local city bus, which would drop us to the new bus stand. We almost missed our bus. But God bless the driver who saw us running haplessly and he stopped the bus. We took a sigh of breath after catching it. We were just in time to catch our Volvo to Delhi!

This trip was one heck of an adventurous trip that I would never forget and what made it interesting was coming together of a very diverse group, a group of solo travelers traveling together for the first and (hopefully not) the last time.

TRAVEL TIPS:

  1. Sarahan is best visited between March – Nov. During Dec – Feb period it gets snowfall
  2. Book in advance as there is just one hotel – Shrikhand
  3. Either drive down to Sarahan or travel via Volvo till Shimla. Covering the entire journey in a local bus does get too tiring and consumes lot of time
  4. Trek only with local guides and try the local dhabba’s food
  5. From Sarahan, visit the following places
    • Jeori: 20 kms away from Sarahan is famous for the Hot water springs that are believed to have medicinal powers
    • Bhabha valley: the scenic valley extends along the Bhabha River. Which has beautiful landscape, reservoir lake, alpine meadows and is best famous for trek route to Pin Valley in Spiti
    • Sangla Valley: a spell bounding valley spell that ensnares the visitor in her mesh with the scenic beauty of the surrounding apple orchards, flower filled meadows and towering mountains
    • Kamru Fort: two km from Sangla the architecture of this fort is reminiscent of the Bhimakali temple complex in Sarahan
    • Chitkul:The last village of the Sangla valley which is renowned for its saffron farms and the Baspa River’s rushing waters, an excellent place for trout fishing

PICTURE GALLERY

apple orchard

Bashal Peak Trek starts through Apple orchards, Sarahan

trek begins here

Lower part of the trek, Bashal Peak, Sarahan

during trek

Taking a Break, Bashal Peak Trek, Sarahan

lunch during trek

Lunch Break, Bashal Peak Trek, Sarahan

Wild Herbs, Bashal Peak, Sarahan

Wild Herbs, Bashal Peak, Sarahan

View from Bashal trek

View during our Bashal Peak Trek, Sarahan

bashal peak panaroma 1

Panaromic View, Bashal Peak, Sarahan

Our Guide -Bittu

Our Guide -Bittu

Shepherd dogs giving us Company during the Bashal Peak trek, Sarahan

Shepherd dogs giving us Company during the Bashal Peak trek, Sarahan

Bhimakali Temple, Sarahan

Bhimakali Temple, Sarahan

Houses at Sarahan

Colourful houses at Sarahan

Sarahan to Shimla Highway

Sarahan to Shimla Highway

Monsoon Clouds on sarahan-shimla way

Monsoon Clouds on Sarahan-Shimla way

Photoshoot with Sutluj in the background

Somewhere on Shimla-Sangla-Kinnaur Highway, River Sutlej Flowing in the Bcakground

Bajrang Balli, Rampur-Sarahan Highway

Bajrang Balli, Rampur-Sarahan Highway

Food Tripping at Shimla Mall Road

Food Tripping at Shimla Mall Road

IN philippines

Solo Travel is no longer a taboo. Some travel out of compulsion and some out of curiosity.  Whatever may be the reason, the fact is solo travel is in vogue. Travel communities, groups, meet-ups, and the ocean of digital resources have made it easier than ever before to hit the road solo. From the Great Blue Hole of Belize to the stunning landscapes of Queenstown, many destinations are friendly to solo travel. And you’ll find tons of articles on Google. However, we Indians have many issues when it comes to solo travel:

  • Safety because we have paranoid parents waiting back home
  • Food because the majority of us are vegetarians and love our spices
  • Visa because we are still a third world country
  • Currency because our Rupee is too weak in front of dollars, pounds, yens, and Euros
  • Culture because in our culture, travel is still seen as an extravagance
  • Leaves because our Bosses can’t fathom the idea of taking a long holiday break to travel

I am sure you’ll have a lot more to add to this list. In my last post, I wrote about how to plan your first solo travel. This post is dedicated to helping you choose your solo travel destination. The top solo travel-friendly destinations mentioned below have been handpicked on the basis of my personal experience, safety, food, cost, ease of travel, stay options, attractions, language and people you get to interact with. So Get Set Go!


TOP 5 INDIAN SOLO TRAVEL-FRIENDLY DESTINATIONS:

Ladakh:

My solo travel journey in India began with Ladakh, so it holds a special place in my heart. If I were to pick a destination to get lost I would always choose Ladakh. It’s never-ending mountain desert, rugged terrain, heavenly lakes, colourful festivals, serene monasteries and a wide variety of flora and fauna; was specially created by God when he must be in a very good mood. Probably it was a place hand-crafted by God for himself. And the people what do I say about them. They have a heart of gold. For more info do read 11 Soulful reasons to travel to Ladakh.

Rafting endpoint - the confluence of Indus & Zanskar in Ladakh, India

Rafting endpoint – the confluence of Indus & Zanskar in Ladakh, India

2) Karnataka

After a horrible experience in Tamil Nadu, I was pretty scared to explore Karnataka. But the experiences I had in Bangalore, Mysore, Gokarna, Hampi, Badami, Chikmagular, Coorg and other places were mind-blowing. Karnataka has a memorable mix of nature, history, beach and spiritual destinations. I felt genuinely welcomed. People didn’t try to take advantage, were helpful and admired my solo travel spirit than looking with condescendence.

Maravanthe Beach, Karnataka

Maravanthe Beach, Karnataka

3) Himachal

This is one of my favourite and most explored state. Though lately, it has become bit touristy but still has a charm like your first crush. Himachal is synonymous with scenic beauty, serene landscape and adventure sports besides preferred for spirituality too. I did my hitchhiking trip here. Strangers would invite you to lunch and share apples just like that. It is the best place to start your love affair with mountains. Plenty of options to choose from – Kullu Valley, Parvati valley, Teerthan Valley, Sangla Valley, Dalhousie–Khajjiar- Chamba belt, Dharamshala –Mcleodganj, Palampur among others. Well connected with roads and no accommodation issue, this place is hit among solo travelers from India and abroad. Though Lahaul-Spiti is my favourite in Himachal but perhaps not ideal for your first solo trip. Do check Explore the hidden beauty around Manali, Malana and Lahaul

Sisu on the way to Lahaul, Himachal Pradesh, India

Sisu on the way to Lahaul, Himachal Pradesh, India

4) Rajasthan

A treasure trove for history buffs, Rajasthan is on the list of every foreign and Indian traveler. And, rightly so. The close proximity to the capital makes it an ideal weekend destination for history, architecture, heritage, culture, tradition, art and food lovers. But there is much to explore in Rajasthan then doing a weekend trip there. There is no place as culturally and historically rich as Rajasthan is. Whether you are taking a desert safari in Jaisalmer or doing a Chudail in Kuldhara or brunching at Neemrana or attending the world’s largest cattle fair at Pushkar or revisiting history in Chittorgarh; Rajasthan will colour you in its vibrant colours.

Golden hour at Udaipur, Rajasthan, India

Golden hour at Udaipur, Rajasthan, India

5) North East

Contrary to the image seven sisters are the safest places for solo travelers. The matriarchal society means women are treated with utmost respect here. The unspoiled majestic beauty of the Himalayas makes it a breathtakingly beautiful place to travel to. The treks and homestays give you an authentic taste of India often ignored. From the mysterious Mawsmai Caves to Double Decker Living Root Bridge, a UNESCO World Heritage Site to the vast expanse of greenery, forests and mountains; North East will mesmerize you beyond imagination.

If India travel is on your cards, don’t forget to read Solo Female travel Destinations in India

TOP 5 INTERNATIONAL SOLO TRAVEL-FRIENDLY DESTINATIONS:

1) Singapore:

Voted as the best country to travel, Singapore is not only a multicultural city, always celebrating something but is also the safest island in the world. Beautiful like a dream and well managed like an orchestra, Singapore is poetry in motion. An ideal place to start your Solo Travel journey. From endless urban attractions to grand heritage buildings to chaotic hawker street centers to the serenity of green spaces to hip nightlife to glitzy high street malls to infinity pools to offbeat islands; Singapore has everything you would expect from a world-class city. Boasting of having one of the strictest laws, the crime rate is almost zero here. Thanks to MRT, moving around is a piece of a cakewalk. And the most defining pleasure of Singapore is its food. You’ll be spoiled for choice.

Singapore

Singapore

2) London

Highly commercial but very safe and comfortable for solo travelers, London has attractions of all kinds – Wimbledon, Lords, Wembley stadium for sports aficionados, British Library and Shakespeare Globe Centre for literature fanatics, London Eye, Buckingham Palace, Big Ben, London Bridge and many other buildings for heritage admirers, Southall for authentic Indian food lovers, Harrods and Oxford Street for fashionistas, Design Museum and art galleries for art devotees among others. You name it and London has it. Also known as the birthplace of the Metro or London Tube as they call it, Public transport here is impeccable. Climate is slightly grey and cold but the warmth of people will melt your heart. Huge Indian diaspora presence makes you feel at home. Global cuisine restaurants and cafes are everywhere. The only thing that makes it slightly unattractive is the cost on your wallet.

London Eye on Thames River

London Eye on Thames River

3) Sydney

If Singapore stands for efficiency, London for heritage, Sydney is the epitome of youthful exuberance. Perhaps, because half the population is not Australian and the average age of the citizens’ ranges between 20 and 40 years old. Sydney captivates you with its great variety of beaches, world-famous monuments and building, eco-friendly parks, enchanting landscapes and a never-ending variety of restaurants and cafes to suit every pocket. From spending a day at Manly beach to Sydney Harbour Bridge climbing to partying till wee hours at Ivy to having a romantic dinner date at Darling Harbour; Sydney will ensure you have an action-packed day with an equally alluring nightlife. On your night out, if you get too sloshed then there are special ‘Plan B Buses’ to drop you home safely and cheaply. Weather, language, travel, food are non-issues. Lastly, if you have not witnessed the world’s greatest New Year Party at Sydney Harbour then you have missed a lot in your life. If you are planning to go to Australia then do check out Practical Tips for your first trip to Australia.

The Famous Sydney Harbour Fireworks

The Famous Sydney Harbour Fireworks

4) Dubai

The city of tall skyscrapers and the indoor ski range is probably the first place a solo traveller should go to. The language is familiar (more than 50% of the population is Indian), the food is familiar- you get idli-vada-sambar to Sanjeev Kapoor’s cooked Paneer Butter Masala and it is very safe. The people out there are very helpful as most of them are migrants and there is a lot to do in the city/state. You can head out to Yas Marina that hosts the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix, try the Torro Rosso-the fastest roller coaster in the world, get a glimpse of the world from the observation deck on the Burj Khalifa and enjoy dune bashing. All in all, a good starting point to get accustomed to solo travels and then move to some challenging ones. And don’t forget to check Offbeat Dubai: Beyond Burj Khalifa and Desert Safari.

5) Manila

Inside Manila Cathedral, Philippines

Inside Manila Cathedral, Philippines

This place would have never made it to my list had I not lived here. The most underrated city in South East Asia. The Makati part of the city is like any First World city. Intramurous is your gateway to the Spanish era. The glitzy Glorietas, Greenbelts, Mall of Asia would confuse you if you were in the USA or in the Philippines. Unlike its South East Asian counterparts, everybody speaks English. Filipinos are the most humble and courteous people in the world. Music and basketball run in the veins of Filipinos. The old part of Manila is chaotic like any other developing country city but the beauty of the place lies once you hit the highway. The close proximity to beaches and having over 7000 islands make it a must visit place. The only negative about the city is its traffic and no direct flight from India. Do check out my articles on the Philippines, Bohol, Fortune Island, Puerto Galera for more information.

Hope this top solo travel-friendly destinations post inspires you to take that leap of faith and move on with your Solo Travel. Happy solo travels!

Solo Travel not only teaches you how to love the world but how to love yourself.CYMERA_20141004_234237With more and more solo travelers venturing out of their cocoons to see the world, there is a sudden surge in the number of solo travelers. Thanks to thousands of travel blogs mushrooming and media romanticizing the solo travel, we see people from different walks of life exploring the world all by themselves. I myself belong to this small tribe. Whenever I post any article I often get queries on how to plan your first solo travel and other questions like 
  • “How do you find the courage to solo travel ?”
  • “How did you start solo traveling?”
  • “How do you fund your solo travels?”
  • “How do you convince your family?”
  • “Is it safe to travel all by yourself?”
  • “Don’t you get bored while solo traveling?”
  • “What are the solo travel friendly destinations?”
  • “What is it to travel solo?”

Well to cut the long story short Solo Travel means Freedom.

Solo travel rids you of your fears, prejudices and makes you responsible for your actions. You get a boost of confidence and empowerment, which reflects in everything you do thereafter. This post is an attempt to answer all those queries and help you prepare to take that leap of faith. So let’s begin to solve the puzzle of how to plan your first solo travel.

MENTAL CONVICTION – WHY I WANT TO TRAVEL SOLO?

Before you get on the road or try to convince your folks, you have to convince yourself. Start by reading personal experiences of solo travellers. See documentaries. Talk to solo travelers. But most importantly talk to yourself. Honestly answer why you want to travel solo. If your answer is to join the bandwagon then you are doing it wrong. The reason cannot come from anyone else but you. Once you have a strong reason you won’t have to work hard towards convincing others. First thing solo travel teaches you is to improve your decision making.

Bungee Jumping

PLANNING THE PLAN – WHERE TO GO FOR YOUR FIRST SOLO TRAVEL?

Once your mind is made up, decide the destination. Don’t get carried away by glossiness. The first solo trip is not to get too adventurous but to make you comfortable with solo traveling. Don’t attempt anything that is out of your comfort zone. Take baby steps. Decide the kind of experience you want – adventure, nature, culture, wildlife, heritage or something else. Once you have zeroed upon your interest then look for safe and comfortable options. Doing the touristy stuff on your first solo trip isn’t a bad idea.

Try with a weekend trip in conditions not alien to you. Do an in-depth search and have at least two itineraries ready. Workaround holidays or a long weekend. Start saving money in advance. All my trips are self-funded. I don’t spend on clothes, eating out, parties and other city life frills. I save that money for my future travels. Remember money saved is money earned.

Breaking for lunch at Bharatpur

GARNER SUPPORT – HOW TO CONVINCE YOUR PARENTS?

Once you have made up your mind, it becomes very easy to convince others. Your family and friends oppose your solo travel because they are worried about your safety and well-being. But once they see the conviction in you they won’t stop you. Be thoroughly prepared to convince them. Don’t leave any room for doubt. Brace yourself to answer all kinds of questions – how many days, why this place, why solo, where will you stay, safety of the place, how will you travel, who have traveled solo to that place, how will you manage your expenses, how will you stay in touch, what activities will you do, how will you travel, what are the emergency contact numbers etc. Show conviction, have confidence and promise to stay in touch throughout your trip. I am sure you’ll pass their viva with flying colours.

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EXECUTE THE PLAN – HOW TO ENJOY WHILE STAYING ALERT?

The success of your first solo trip will determine the rest of your solo journey. So be extra cautious. Follow the practical travel tips for solo travellers. Stay in a hotel/hostel at a prominent location, which is highly recommended by travelers (look for reviews on TripAdvisor), is well connected by public transport, has all basic facilities and whose customer care is prompt to respond. And most importantly, choose a place, which has a good Wi-Fi connection. Once you have decided the place, make your itineraries. Always have plan B and C. Take feedback from travelers who have been there before. Download the necessary travel guides, make notes and save important information on your mobile. Pre-book everything.

Check out cheap flights on Skyscanner, look out for flight sales, participate in travel contests, install travel apps like triposo, holidify. Invest is a good backpack and travel gear from Decathlon. Check out travel hacks, pack light and avoid taking your flashy gadgets. A mobile camera is good enough for your first solo trip. Stay in touch with your folks on daily basis. Be slow in trusting strangers. Get the local information from chaiwallahas, hotel staff, and taxi drivers without revealing too much about yourself.

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INSPIRE OTHERS – HOW TO SHARE YOUR EXPERIENCE?

Once you have successfully completed your first solo trip, be an inspiration to others by answering their question of how to plan your first solo trip. Nothing motivates people like hearing real-life experiences. So be that inspiration to someone who would be in a similar boat that you were before. Content is more important than presentation. You can share it either on your blog on WordPress, blogger, tripoto, medium, on FB travel groups, Facebook posts, Tweets, Instagram feed or any other medium you prefer. Say it through pictures. Let people see it to believe it.

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Hope I was able to answer your question on how to plan your first solo travel.

So go ahead and plan your first solo travel. There’s nothing like Solo Travel because when you travel solo you explore things not just in the outside world but also within yourself.

Check out my top solo travel-friendly destinations in my next article.

And once you have decided to take the plunge, don’t forget to read these Top 10 Travel Packing Tips to stay smart on the road by Continents Condiments

Chocolate Hills, Bohol

Chocolate is the first luxury that anybody ever experiences. It has so many emotions and memories wrapped up in it: deliciousness in the moment, childhood memories, first crush memories, gifts from the visiting guests, reward for small wins or just the magic bar to evade boredom and cheer us up. As we grew old, the role of chocolate in our life evolved but it always remained an integral part of our life. It’s been more than 20 years since “Cadbury’s Kya Swaad Hai Zindagi Mein” ad aired on Indian Television but we still recall that ad because it didn’t hard sell the product, it stood for a bigger message – an enabler for celebration and self-expression without apprehension.

Now you would be wondering why I am talking about Chocolate in a Travel blog. Well that’s because my last trip to Bohol is renowned for its famed Chocolate Hills.

Interesting name, right? Chocolate Hills is a cluster of 1700 limestone hills perfectly carved by volcanic eruptions in the shape of Hershey’s kisses or giant boobs as they appeared to me 😛 During the dry season, the green grass of the hills changes to brown and hence, Chocolate Hills. Isn’t it a delicious enough reason to visit them? However, once there, I realised there’s a lot more to Bohol than just Chocolate boobs, oops hills 😛

Here are the ten reasons why Bohol is a must visit Island in Philippines:

  1. DON’T JUST BE A SPECTATOR. CHALLENGE THE CHOCOLATE HILLS:

    After climbing the 438 steps that lead you to the park, you’ll be a little breathless but the Chocolate Hills view from the viewpoint deck at the Chocolate Hills Adventure Park (CHAP) will rejuvenate you. If you are an adventure junkie like me you should go for Zip Line Biking, which involves pedalling a modified bicycle on a 225 meter-long cable wire suspended 150 feet above the ground. Unlike an ordinary zipline where gravity takes you from Point A to Point B, the bike zipline requires you to pedal to-and-fro across the wire. It is pretty physically exhausting and scary to pedal in thin air but the adrenaline rush is unparalleled. If you are not so brave, then opt for ATV ride around the hills. Don’t just marvel the beauty of the hills. Indulge with them.

Zipline Biking in Chocolate Hill Adventure Park, Bohol

Zipline Biking in Chocolate Hill Adventure Park, Bohol. Please do not copy this image without my permission.

  1. SWIM WITH THE TURTLES IN BALICASAG ISLAND:

    Philippines is one the world’s best snorkeling and diving site with excellent diving and snorkeling sites spread across the archipelago. However, it’s a different experience swimming with the turtles in the Balicasag Island Marine Sanctuary. And once you are done with that, you can dive to see the excellent marine life of the Balicasag Island. And yes, don’t forget to start your ocean trip with Dolphin watching. I was unlucky to not see them, thanks to the typhoon. But on the hindsight, I was lucky to be back home, considering the sea was so rough that my ocean tour and Oslob Whale and Shark watching tour got cancelled for three days.

Swim with the TUrtles in Balicasag Marine Sanctuary

Swim with the Turtles in Balicasag Marine Sanctuary

  1. TAKE A MORNING WALK ON THE VIRGIN ISLAND:

    Isola di Francesco commonly referred as Virgin Island is a hidden oasis in Panglao, Bohol. Unless you are taking an ocean trip, not many people know about this paradise. Previously under Government jurisdiction, now privately owned this island is untouched natural heaven and is open to all. No entry ticket and no commercial activities. During high tides the island gets completely submerged but during low tides the white sandbar surrounded by turquoise green and blue colour water is a sight to behold. If you want to propose your girl in a very special place then this is it.

Take a Morning Stroll at Virgin Island, Panglao

Take a morning walk on the Virgin Island, Panglao

  1. EXPERIENCE THE STUNNING SUNRISE AND SUNSET AT PANGLAO:

    Nothing comes closer to watching the sun rise or sun set at the Panglao Island. Though Alona Beach is the most popular beach in Panglao, Dumaluan and Doljo beaches are much better because of their white powdered beaches, crystal clear water and far less crowd. If possible, stay at The Palms. It’s a very beautiful property. Doljo beach is famous for divers who take ocean trips and diving boats from here. However, if you are staying at Alona Beach then take a spot near the Henann Resort or ISIS Bungalows Restaurant to capture the most mesmerising sunrise and sunset pictures.

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    Sunrise at Panglao Island

Sunsrise at Panglao Island

Sunsrise at Panglao Island

Sunrise at Alona

Sunset at Alona Beach

Night life at Alona Beach

Sunset at Alona Beach

Evening at Alona Beach

Evening at Alona Beach

  1. TAKE A DIP IN THE FRESHWATER LAKE OF HINAGDANAN CAVE:

    This cave wasn’t part of my Itinerary but on a local’s suggestion I visited the Hinagdanan Cave and thank God for that! It is lighted naturally by the Sun through a couple of holes. It has a lagoon that is about 10-12 meters deep and has natural fresh waters that gradually flow in and out of the cave. The story behind the discovery of this cave is very interesting. Apparently it was accidentally discovered when the owner of the area found a hole while cleaning. He threw a stone into the hole and heard a splash. Later he built a ladder to get into the cave and that’s how it got named as Hinagdanan, meaning “laddered”.

Swim in the freshwater lake of Hinagdanan Cave

Swim in the freshwater lake of Hinagdanan Cave 

  1. SAY HELLO TO THE TARSIER, ONE OF THE SMALLEST PRIMATES IN THE WORLD:

    Tarsiers are endangered, extremely cute but very shy nocturnal primates, who have been almost wiped out from Philippines. The alien-looking creature with really big eyes measures less than a human hand (85 to 160 millimeters). They can turn their head in 180 degrees, spending most of the day sleeping on hidden branches of tall grass or bamboo trees. They get really stressed out by tourists’ activities, sometime leading them to commit suicide. Please see Tarsiers in their natural habitat- Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary NOT along the Loboc River where they are kept in bad conditions and where they don’t survive for long.

Say hello to the Tarsier

Say hello to the Tarsier

  1. RELISH THE ORGANIC FOOD AT THE BOHOL BEE FARM WITH A STUNNING OCEAN VIEW:

    Your visit to Bohol is incomplete without visiting the Bohol Bee Farm where you get to relish fine dining experience with divine ocean view. All the ingredients used in cooking are organically grown in the farm and the freshness of the food says it all. And yes don’t forget to have their home made ice-creams which come in delectable flavours. Do try their Malunggay flavour. And if possible, do stay there overnight.

    Ocean View Bohol Bee Farm Restaurant

    Bohol Bee Farm Restaurant Ocean View

    Home made Ice Cream at Bohol Bee Farm

    Home made Ice Cream at Bohol Bee Farm

  1. LIGHT UP THE NIGHT WITH THOUSANDS OF FIREFLIES:

    If days are eventful in Bohol, nights are no lesser. Don’t believe me? Experience it yourself. Take the Bohol Firefly Tour. The evening tour begins with a gourmet organic dinner at the Bee Farm Restaurant followed by the pumpboat trip in the Loboc River that takes you downriver at a slow, leisurely pace. Along the riverbanks, trees are brightly lit with the myriad lights of fireflies. If you want to do it in a more adventurous way then take the Firefly Watching SUP Tour (Stand-Up Paddle Board) or on Kayak. This trip is magical and surely brings back childhood memories. I guess Fireflies song of Owl City must be inspired from this place.

Firefly Watching Tour, Bohol

Firefly Watching Tour, Bohol

  1. BREAK THE JOURNEY TO ABSORB NATURE:

    Bohol is extremely picturesque and its beauty lies not just in the touristy destinations but in the entire journey. While driving around the island I stopped midway several times just to marvel atthe natural beauty around. Get yourself clicked in the lush green paddy fields, or see the two kilometre long Bilar Man-Made Forest. Also, while taking your countryside tour don’t forget to visit the Tigbao Hanging Bridge, which is among the world’s 13 “most spectacular foot bridges”. It’s actually made of metal, but a bamboo top layer was added to give it an authentic or scary look. The bridge is suspended about 82 feet over the Loboc River and was built to facilitate travel between two barangays.

Hanging Bridge, Bohol

Tigbao Hanging Bridge, Bohol

Loboc River Floating Restaurant

Loboc River Floating Restaurant

The Billar-Loboc Man-made Forest

The Billar-Loboc Man-made Forest

  1. EXPERIENCE THE AUTHENTIC FILIPINO CULTURE:

    Bohol was stuck by a massive earthquake in 2013 but the resilience of the locals is commendable. A generous Smile and Hope are their biggest tools to tide over any kind of hardship. The Baclayon Church and few other buildings are still undergoing repairs but they represent the true spirit of Filipina Culture. Loboc river cruise also introduces you to their cuisine and traditional Filipino music and dance. While walking through the island you can see them indulging in various traditional sports like cock fighting, Kids playing Tiyakad or other traditional sports. Bohol is one of the provinces that house the traditional “Bahay Kubo” huts made up of wooden frames and bamboo. All the houses in Bohol are very pretty and have beautiful gardens some outlined with gorgeous shell designs.

Coke Time

Locals enjoying sea urchins with Coca-Cola

Tiyakad

Kid playing Tiyakad, a traditional Filipino Game

Bahay Kubo, Bohol

I could not cover the North of the island which houses some of the most beautiful waterfalls and offbeat wonders. Maybe that will be my reason to visit Bohol again.

Bohol offers you myriad kinds of experiences. So go head and explore this wonderland.

TRAVEL TIPS:

  1. Many people come from Cebu to Bohol via ferry. However, I would recommend take a direct flight to Tagbilaran airport. Saves you lot of time
  2. Tricycles and habal-habal (bikes) are the major public transport vehicles in Bohol. Bargain hard. Taxis are expensive. Use them for your land tour only.
  3. Rent a motorbike. Works out to be cheaper. Many hotels / cottages offer rooms with bikes at as low as 750/- php per day rental
  4. Snorkeling is usually covered in the Ocean tour but swimming with the Turtles isn’t. Either convince your tour provider to include it in the package or pay 200 php more. But it’s a must do. Most importantly wear proper snorkeling gear. One person recently died because of stepping on a poisonous coral reef
  5. Stay hydrated and wear sunscreen. Drink lots of buko juice (coconut water), have plenty of pink coloured bananas and if you love seafood, buy fresh seafood at the beaches
  6. Transportation is expensive in Bohol. Group travel and stay works out to be cheaper. Else, splurge on enjoying your king/queen style hospitality
  7. If traveling solo, be prepared to be asked uncomfortable random questions from strangers like “Mam why are you traveling solo?”, “Mam why are you single?”, “Mam, does your family not say anything when you travel solo?” etcetera etcetera
  8. Keep change. Almost all places have an entry ticket ranging from 20 php to 60 php
  9. If you can afford stay at Hinann Resort at Alona Beach or South Palms Resort at Dumaluan Beach. They have the best beach sites.
  10. Airport pick up and drop from the Panglao Island costs 500 php per side therefore combine your countryside tour with your airport pick to save extra bucks

If you wanna know more, don’t forget to read ‘Behold the beauty of Bohol‘.

PICTURE GALLERY

Virgin Island

Virgin Island

Virgin Island Sandbar

Virgin Island Sandbar

Virgin Island Sandbar during high tide

Virgin Island Sandbar during high tide

Shuttle Service at Virgin Island

Shuttle Service at Virgin Island

Lifeguard

Dumaluan Beach, Panglao Island

Dumaluan

Dumaluan Beach

Dumaluan Beach, Panglao Island

Dumaluan beach - Palms

Dumaluan Beach

Dumaluan beach - Palms Resto

Dumaluan beach – Palms Resto

Hanging Bridge at Chocolate Hill Adventure Park, Bohol

Hanging Bridge at Chocolate Hill Adventure Park, Bohol

Philipina Tarsier, Bohol

Philipina Tarsier, Bohol

During my stay in the Philippines, every weekend I asked one question 0 what are the places to visit near Manila? And, look what a found? A piece of Greece in the Philippines. To know more, read on…

Places to see near Manila, Philippines: Fortune island

Places to see near Manila, Philippines: Fortune island

The Greeks had their gods and the modern world has Greek mythology. Though Greece failed twice, during the ancient “classical” period and the recent  Economic Crisis, Greek culture has stayed immortal through its efflorescence. Even after centuries, Greek political, philosophical, artistic and architectural ideas continue to play a big influence in our modern society. Fortune Island’s main feature is the Greek Inspired Acropolis, a version of which is found in Athens. The island’s breathtaking tropical location adds further to its allure and charm. Just like its’ inspiration, Fortune Island is battling hard times after a very bullish run.

The story of its creation and destruction is a fascinating tale, full of unexpected outcomes and extraordinary back-stories. Fasten your water goggles; suck in a deep breath before we dive into the crystal clear waters of the Fortune island!

Related: Places to visit in the Philippines

HISTORY OF THE FORTUNE ISLAND

Formerly owned by the Batangas Governor José Antonio Leviste, Fortune Island is a 27-hectare island that lies 14kms off the coast of Nasugbu town in the Batangas province of the Philippines. José Antonio Leviste built the posh Fortune Island Resort Club in 1995, exclusively for the who’s who of the society, who sought exclusive luxury. The main attraction of the island is an Acropolis with Grecian pillars and statues on the edge of the island overlooking the tranquil waters. Of the many stories about Fortune Island, the one that stuck to me was the one about its name.

Fortune Island is called fortune because the San Diego Ship, a trade ship converted into a warship, sank off the island on December 14, 1600 (Ironically my birth date 😛 and not year). The Shipwreck with its treasure trove was discovered by French marine archaeologist Frank Goddio. Few of the originally recovered artifacts were displayed in the San Diego Museum which was there at the resort.

The island is a shipwreck magnet. Not only did the San Deigo ship sink here but this island has a history of many modern shipwrecks too. On December 13, 1995, a passenger ferry sank off Fortune Island leaving 17 people dead and on September 18, 1998, another passenger ferry sank off, resulting in 70 deaths. One usually gets to hear about spooky ghost stories of the island but I guess they are all made up.

Anyway coming back to our Fortune Island’s rise and fall story, due to mismanagement and reasons unknown the Fortune Island Resort Club Operation was shut down in 2006 and later reopened for the public in November 2013 by a Korean Businessman who had leased it. The main reason cited by locals for its failure was the island’s lack of  Freshwater source resulting in great difficulty in managing day-to-day operations. As they say, you should never take basics for granted. Luxury is of no use if basic needs are not met.

Like the Great Greek Civilisation, the once exclusive island is now an abandoned and wrecked private property. It’s like seeing an empire slipping into decadence and destruction. The good thing is, it is still an offbeat destination and as a result, its natural beauty is fully intact. However, the only remaining attraction on the island, the Acropolis, standing at the edge of a cliff might not last for another decade because the pillars are quickly deteriorating. Many Statues are already damaged and there is no maintenance work in sight. I hope the owner wakes up from his slumber and saves this beautiful island from having a similar fate as its inspiration had the ancient Greek Civilisation.

The Acropolis-inspired Greek Ruins at Fortune Island

damaging acropolis

The deteriorating pillars of the Acropolis, Fortune Island

Now let me give you some practical tips how you can see this amazing creation of nature and art before it slips into oblivion.

HOW TO GET TO FORTUNE ISLAND?

Though I had gone with a group in a private van you can easily board a BSC or DLTB Bus Line departing from EDSA, Buendia or Cubao bus terminals, Manila going to Nasugbu Batangas every day. Travel time is 3-4 hrs, depending on traffic. From the town, hail a tricycle to reach the Fortune Island Resort where after paying the Landing’s fee and boat fees, you’ll embark on an over an hour boat journey. In choppy weather, it can take up to 2 hours or more too. The worst part was walking through the dirty black sand beach of Barangay Bucana, Nasugbu to get into the boat.

Boatride from Barangay Bucana, Nasugbu to the Fortune Island

Boatride from Barangay Bucana, Nasugbu to the Fortune Island

Fortune Island view from the boat

Fortune Island view from the boat

WHAT TO DO ON THE FORTUNE ISLAND?

The pristine beach has portions of the powdered white sand and portions with rough white sand. Shells and corals abound in the shore.  It is a completely deserted property with one caretaker, therefore, there are no facilities of any kind. The activities you do will depend on what you are game for, namely:

  • Swimming: The turquoise crystal clear water is ideal for swimming
  • Cliff jumping: At the back of the hill, through steps down the hill one reaches a cliff jumping point from where you can dive into the open sea
  • Snorkeling and Diving: Fortune Island has 3-4 dive sites (Source: www.divephil.com)
    • The Blue Holes: three large holes in the coral leading into an open-topped cavern, crystal clear water with visibility reaching 300ft on a good day
    • The Wreck: located opposite the beach in 65ft of water the stern and keel of a steel Dutch freighter are found
    • Fortune NW: located between the blue holes and the wreck is some very spectacular coral formations with valleys dropping away to over 120ft
  • Hiking to the Lighthouse: if you are game to bear the scorching sun then hike to Lighthouse
  • Photography: Fortune Island is a photographer’s dream! The white Acropolis and statues set against the backdrop of infinity turquoise blue sea will confuse people if you are in the Mediterranean or in the Philippines. If possible, try to capture the sunset and sunrise. And yeah, Photo ops at the Athens inspired Acropolis is a great way to make your friends jealous 😛
  • Camping: The island lacks basic amenities like electricity, rooms, working toilets etc. therefore you have to be properly geared up for camping. Make sure you carry your own tent/sleeping bag, mosquito repellent, loads of water and food supplies, spare clothes. Lastly, carry a brave heart which doesn’t get scared of unwanted guests, the ghosts 😛
  • Island hopping: From Fortune Island, you can go island hopping to deserted islands like twin islands. However, be ready to shell out extra bucks
  • Just sit back and relax: Fortune Island is an ideal place for doing nothing but relaxing and marveling at God’s great piece of artwork.

Just sit back and relax. The Philippine Sea from the Athena Statue

Cliff Jumping Point: Even a non-swimmer like me wanted to do it

Fish eye View of the Philippine Sea from the Acropolis

Ideal for Photo ops – View of the Philippine Sea from the Acropolis, Fortune Island

Pristine White Powdery Sand Beach of Fortune Island

WHERE TO GO NEXT?

If you are doing a day trip like I did, then you can spend the night at the beach either at the Fortune Island Resort or any other beach Resort like Mar-Lou Beach Resort, Nasugbu, Batangas. You can either opt for a camp or take a room. The Resorts are budget Resorts but well maintained.

Next day you can do a quick food or sightseeing trip at Tagaytay.

Camp at Barangay Bucana, Nasugbu, Batangas for this view

Posing at Tagaytay withTaal Lake and Crater in the background

Pose at Tagaytay withTaal Lake and Volcano in the background

Food Trip at Tagaytay Beef & Bulalao Market

MY TAKE ON THIS TRIP?

Fortune Island not only gave me a much-needed break from the hustle and bustle of the city life but also restored the faith I was unknowingly losing. The fascinating rise and fall of the Fortune Island in the Greek Style reminded me that even if a thing is abandoned and totally wrecked, there is still goodness and beauty in it. And it’s not over until it’s over. You can still restore it if you want. You just have to believe and take that leap of faith and everything will fall into place. Post-mortem of the past won’t help. You have to take timely action before it gets too late.

So, game for exploring the Fortune Island?

If you liked this story, please do share your feedback. Travel See Write is incomplete without your valuable feedback 🙂

Do you know any interesting places to visit near Manila?

Fortune Island from the Boat

First glimpse of the Fortune Island from the Boat

Way to the Fortune Island Beach from the Acropolis

Way to the Beach from the Acropolis, Fortune Island

The Azure waters are ideal for swimming

The Azure waters are ideal for swimming, Fortune Island

Places to visit in Pondicherry

Places to visit in Pondicherry

Places to visit in Pondicherry

The very word Pondicherry makes you think of the French Riviera but there’s more to Pondicherry than just that. It has so many shades woven into its social and cultural fabric that it is difficult to decipher what it really stands for.

Pondicherry is a study in dichotomy –

  • Parisian Style Living or the Tamilian Kitsch
  • Tourist friendly roads or unruly traffic
  • Hospitality bringing alive ‘Incredible India’ or coldness scaring away the tourists
  • Expensive French cuisine or a sumptuous dinner in Twenty Rupees
  • French Quarters reminiscent of a beautiful past or Tamilian Quarters representing the ugly face of urbanisation

One side makes you question the delay in visiting this place and the other side makes you wonder why you came here in the first place. Divided not just by a canal into two quarters but by a mind-set and culture, Pondicherry is a city of paradoxes. On a scale from 1 to 10, I experienced the extremes. So let me take you on a roller-coaster ride. Fasten your seat belts!

Day One – From being scammed to being saved

Aayi Mandapam - Copy

Places to visit in Pondicherry: Aayi Mandapam, Pondicherry

On the eve of Holi, when entire North India has a license to get dirty with colours, I decided to see the colours of the erstwhile French Colony. Boarded the first Volvo at 6 am from Koyambedu to Pondicherry via East Coast Road. The Pondicherry trip started on a bad note, thanks to Blue Lagoon, which I booked through Airbnb. Going by the property description on the website, I had booked a clean and tranquil cottage so close to the Auroville Beach that you can hear the sea wave’s crash. But 5 minutes in the property and I realised I have been scammed. I shared my concern with the owner as well as Airbnb but got no help. I was in the middle of the road in an unknown place full of rude and unfriendly people who refused to talk in any other language except Tamil.

And to make it worse, I had to deal with the Tamilian Autowallahas. They have a reputation that precedes them and this was true. They function like a mafia and will ask for exorbitant prices. The public transport is almost non-existent in Pondicherry and therefore you’ll have no other option but to comply with their demands.

Being a long weekend, almost every hotel in Pondicherry was sold out. I checked at various hotels, including Surguru but they refused, saying they don’t give rooms to solo female travelers. Really? Are we a bad omen or do we disturb the decorum of your hotel? After exhaustive online search and calling several properties, at last, I got a room in Raj Residency, a very lousy hotel in a loud, unhygienic and unsafe looking colony. This is not how I had envisioned my Pondicherry Trip to be, so I decided to look for a safer and a better accommodation in the French Quarters.

The Pondicherry Tourism office on the Beach Road came like a messiah. On their suggestion, I checked Park Guest House and luckily they had a room available. Forgoing my advance payment at the two hotels, I checked in because it is a guesthouse managed by Aurobindo Ashram and they follow first come first serve policy. Economical, clean, no frills attached and beautifully located on the beach with manicured lawns and a great view of the sea, the ashram was a paradise. Here I saw some of the most dazzling sunrises and sunsets. If you are not spoiled for luxury and can do without room service then this is the real deal.

After settling in, I decided to explore the cobbled tree lined streets of Pondicherry, which still retained their original French names. The houses were all French colonial style villas – majestic walls, extended compounds, the famed French windows and balconies, the white and mustard coloured building facades. I was soaking the bygone French era beauty – French culture centre, Le Francaise, Statue of Dupleix, Eglise de Notre Dame des Anges, Park Monument (Aayi Mandapam), Governor’s House, Saint Joan of Arc Statue, Bakers street, French consulate and Secretariat among others. After a walking tour, it was time to listen to the hunger pangs at Adyar Anand Bhavan .

I saw a lot of activity around Gandhi memorial statue, his largest statue in Asia. Aarangetam, a dance recital, was keeping the visitors glued to the stage on the Promenade road. Alongside a modern art exhibition possessed the onlookers and a weekend market kept the regular families busy.

french streets

Places to visit in Pondicherry: The French Quarters

The Park Guest house closes by 10 pm and so after having snacks at Le café, which became my favourite halt during my trip, I called it a night. It was a full moon night. The sea, the moon, the waves were enacting a romantic musical. The cold breeze and the soothing sound of the sea waves didn’t make me miss an air conditioner. Lost in the beauty of the Spiritual den I didn’t realise when I slipped into a dream world.

Day two – Taking a History and a Spiritual lesson

Sunrise

Sunrise View from my window, Park Guesthouse, Pondicherry

When the glorious sunrises, even the laziest souls wake up. I was no exception. Fitness enthusiasts starting their day with a suryanamshkar, fishermen embracing the sea with their colourful boats and morning walkers strolling around with their four legged best friends gave me company. After taking ample of Vitamin D and Vitamin SEA at Pondicherry Pier, I returned to the Guesthouse Cafeteria. The breakfast was a fixed simple ala-carte menu prepared and handled by a women-only group. Thanks to insightful tips from the Front Office I planned my next two days itinerary. Today was dedicated to exploring the historical and spiritual side of the town.

First on the list was the Pondicherry Museum. The century-old Law Building, one-time residence of the French Administrator is now a rear window of the past. It’s a small Museum easily covered in an hour or so. After taking the history lesson it was time to explore Spirituality at Aurobindo Ashram. In the central courtyard of the main building lies the stone samadhies (tombs) of Sri Aurobindo and his French disciple and spiritual companion, the “Mother” (Mirra Alfassa). In the pin drop silent environments of the Ashram, you can either meditate or absorb the deafening silence or buy books from the library. All Ashram buildings, workshops, Guesthouses are grey coloured highlighted with white.

Next on agenda was Auroville. After haggling with few Autowallahas finally managed to get an auto for Rupees 175 (started with 400). Auroville means the city of Dawn and was meant to be a global melting pot where anyone from anywhere can come, stay and meditate. When it was inaugurated, representatives of 124 countries and 23 Indian States placed a handful of earth from their homeland. The place is still under construction. Over 2,000+ residents from across the world live in Auroville and engage in various community activities like organic farming, renewable energy, village development, and handicrafts.

A 10 minutes introductory AV about Auroville followed by 10 minutes of walk through the shaded pathway and you reach the Matri Mandir. To visit the Matrimandir meditation hall you have to take an appointment 2 days in advance for the meditation sessions. While coming back there is a shuttle service available. The refreshing drinks served at the food and drinks corner is what you’ll need after visiting Matrimandir. The boutique outlets sell a wide variety of good quality Auroville made products.

The Pathway to the Matrimandir

Places to visit in Pondicherry: Auroville

The Matrimandir, Auroville

Places to visit in Pondicherry: The Matrimandir, Auroville

Day three – Exploring the unexplored backwaters of Pichavaram

Pichavaram Mangrove Forests

Places to visit in Pondicherry: Backwaters of Pichavaram Mangrove Forest

Exploring the spiritual side of Pondicherry usually quells the hunger of many but my hunger for exploring the offbeat places took me to the most amazing place I discovered during this trip. A conversation with a Guesthouse staff sparked a desire to explore the unexplored backwaters of Pichavaram. I boarded a bus to Chidambaram, the temple town of Tamil Nadu, from New Bus Stand, Pondicherry and then after half an hour wait at the Chidambaram bus stand I took a local bus to Pichavaram. Pichavaram is 75 km from Pondicherry. On one side it has world’s second largest mangrove forest (after sundarban) and virgin Pichavarm beach on the other side. You can either hire a paddle boat or motorboat, operated by the Tamil Nadu tourism department, to take you through the mangrove forest daily from 9 a.m. until 6 p.m.

Being a solo traveler, I had to wait and convince a group to explore the beach as well as the mangrove forest with me. Ours was the only boat, which decided to do both. It is a heaven for nature lovers, bird watchers or peace seekers. The emerald green water being kissed by the Mangroves is a sight to behold. The backwaters are just three feet deep but the water is murky and ideal for prawn fishing. Usually, women do prawn fishing on the shores and men do normal fishing. At our behest and a tip of Five Hundred Rupees, our boatman took us inside the smaller narrow canals. They are so narrow that Motorboats can’t go inside these canals.

After spending close to four hours we were back. And I returned to Pondicherry with one more offbeat destination added to my list. En route to Pondicherry, the sun was setting on beautiful Pennair River.

Local women fishing prawns, Pichvaram

Pichavaram Mangrove Forest Caves

Places to visit in Pondicherry: Pichavaram Mangrove Forest Caves

Virgin Pichavaram Beach

Places to visit in Pondicherry: Virgin Pichavaram Beach

Day Four – Getting up-close to many facets of Pondicherry

aurobindo ashram

Places to visit in Pondicherry: Aurobindo Ashram, Pondicherry

Last day I settled to do a PDTC packaged tour for two reasons – I was tired of traveling alone in the scorching heat and humidity of Pondicherry and secondly, I wanted to tick off all the must-see places. Our trip started with a visit to Handmade Paper Factory where we were shown how handmade paper is made, followed by a visit to Aurobindo Ashram and Manakula Vinayagar Temple, the 500-year-old temple of Lord Ganesha that survived the French invasion. Behind the ashram, there were Ashram run souvenir shops from where I bought few organic products. I cannot stop admonishing myself for buying a few of those.

Our next stops were Auroville, Sacred heart Church renowned for its splendid Gothic architecture, Eglise de Notre Dame des Anges Church built by the French Missionaries in 1865, Panchvati Hanuman Temple which is fairly new construction in an ancient city, Chunambhar Boat Complex from where we took a boat to Paradise Beach. We had a lunch break at Surguru Pure Vegetarian Restaurant. The service is quick and a complete value for money restaurant.

Boat ride from Chunnambar Boathouse to Paradise Beach, Pondicherry

Pondicherry is quite hyped but I must say it lives up to that hype. It is a long weekend destination. November to February is the best time to visit it.

So this was my potpourri of myriad experiences. I am waiting to hear your Travel See Write stories.

(more…)

Great Ocean Road, Australia

12 Apostles, Every Traveler’s bucket-list item when in Australia

Australia, a place on everyone’s ‘must see’ list and once in a lifetime experience. So when you visit the smallest continent and are hard-pressed for the time it is time to make sure that you have taken all the right decisions. Australia is massive and you wouldn’t want to repent later for bad planning. So here are few practical tips to enjoy the down under beauty:

CHOOSING THE RIGHT EXPERIENCE

Australia is huge not just in size but also in the kind of experiences it offers. With the wide variety, it offers, you cannot do everything at once so decide where your interest lie, prioritize and then plan your itinerary accordingly.

Related: 10 Reasons why I love Australia

1. Cities or country side

The darling of Tourists - The Darling Harbour, Sydney

The darling of Tourists – The Darling Harbour, Sydney

Australia has some of the world’s most modern, diverse and vibrant cities, each unique in its own culture and natural beauty – On the east coast lies Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Gold Coast and; on the west coast lies Perth, Down south lies Adelaide, Up North lies Darwin and in the red centre lies Alice Springs. Australian countryside is unlike any other countryside. It’s well developed and sparsely populated. For miles and miles you won’t see a person but fear not Kangaroos, Wallaby, Koala, Dingo, Wombat will accompany you throughout. The roads are in good condition. The whole bush (countryside) area is lush green and very scenic abundant with a humongous variety of flora and fauna.

2. Coastal or the outback

Great Ocean Road, Australia

One romantic drive which you can never forget, The Great Ocean Road, Australia

With 50,000 kilometers of stunning coastline linking over 10,000 beaches, Australia is renowned for its white sandy beaches and abundant water sporting activities. You can swim, dive, snorkel, sail, surf, parasail, sandboard, kayak, go boating, and then end the day with a beach BBQ.

However, if an outback holiday is what your heart craves for then look no further, Australia has it all – it’s where you experience the real vastness and dramatic landscapes of Australia. Take stock of your life under the starry night at Uluru or just bring out the kid in you on a cattle station bigger than the size of as Belgium, go horse riding, enjoy camping and enjoy the long drives.

3. Adventure or Gastronomic

Great Barrier Reaf Diving & Snorkeling, Australia

Scuba Diving & Snorkeling in the Great Barrier Reef, Australia

Australia is unbeatable when it comes to adventure activities. There’s sky diving, scuba diving, snorkeling, white water rafting, mountaineering, trekking, camel safari, surfing safaris, crocodile spotting, swimming with dolphins, whale watching, bicycle tours, four-wheel-driving adventures, horseback adventures, kayaking expeditions, and week-long coastal walks. Game?

However, if you like laid back holidays and food is the main ingredient of your holidays then Australia won’t disappoint you. Go wine tasting in Hunter Valley in NSW, Margaret River in Western Australia and the Barossa Valley in South Australia or drop into any country pub and try one of their boutique beers. Experiment their amazing seafood, kangaroo steak, or experience going vegan in their farmers markets of organic fruit and vegetables, cheeses and chocolates.

4. Sports or History

The Boxing Day Test Match, Ashes, Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG), Australia

The Boxing Day Test Match, Ashes, Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG), Australian sports and Australia are inseparable. If you are a sports lover, you cannot skip down under. From the largest cricket playing ground in the world to hosting year’s first grand slam to starting the F1 race season to hosting many global sporting extravaganzas like Olympics, Commonwealth games, World cup; Australia is the Mecca for sports lovers.

Sports is a thread that binds the nation. Every Australian watches and plays sports with equal enthusiasm and pride. Australia has world class facilities, starting from the Rod Laver Arena to the Melbourne Cricket Ground. Sporting facilities are abundant and sometimes, there are more than what is required so much so that one of the villages in the countryside had 14 playing grounds in perfect condition despite nobody living in that village.

If you’re in the mood for history or want to get up-close to Aboriginals, then Australia is the right place. Some of the Australian natives are said to have been on the Island for at least 50,000 years. Experience first-hand their culture, view ancient rock engravings and paintings, Witness ceremonies, dance and song dating back thousands of years, learn bush survival skills, Taste the world’s oldest cuisine.

 CHOOSING THE RIGHT TIME 

Australia can be visited round the year. The winters are not as harsh as in other parts of the world. However, the best time to go is during Australian summers when most of the world is experiencing winters. Christmas and New Year is the peak season when rates become thrice. It no more remains Australia; it becomes a global world in itself. The biggest and the grandest NYE party happens at Sydney Harbour. Superb event management – handle over 1.5 million people every year in that area, spotless mobile toilets, gyrating music to keep your spirits alive, a limitless supply of snacks and drinks, multi-language NYR messages on the Sydney harbour, free train services on NYE, Plan B buses for the tipsy travelers.

But the main draw is the event itself which will take your breath away – beginning with an aerobatic show with stunt planes doing loop-de-loops and mid-air stalls, and some hair-raising low flying just metres from the water, followed by two fireworks at 9pm for the kids and at 10:30 pm for the adults followed by the grandest spectacle at midnight.

And if that’s not enough, the whole month of January, fireworks happen every weekend at key tourist places. And if you want to celebrate your new year in the countryside then there are many music festivals that happen during that time. Also, most of the sporting events like Ashes/boxing day matches, Australian Open, Australian Grand Prix happens around this time only. So paying extra to have so much fun might not be an expensive deal.

The Famous Sydney Harbour Fireworks, Australia

The Famous New Year’s Eve Fireworks at Sydney Harbour, Australia

CHOOSING THE RIGHT TRANSPORTATION

Transportation can drain your budget faster than Usain Bolt can sprint. Australia is huge but flights are generally not expensive if booked in advance. Try skyscanner.com, kayak.com to get the best deals. Low-cost flights like Tiger Air, jet Star works out to be cheaper than traveling by trains or by road. Australia offers reliable and affordable public transport – Skybuses, trams, Light rail trains, Metro, Harbour Ferries, Buses, Taxis. You can rent self-driven cars, bikes or bicycles on rent. So as soon as you land, get yourself a myki/Opal/Translink card or any other local transportation card.

The Public Transport in Melbourne, Australia

The Public Transport in Melbourne, Australia

CHOOSING THE RIGHT ACCOMMODATION

Australia is an expensive country. Money saved on accommodation is money earned to spend on other worth remembering experiences. Use booking.com or airbnb.com or hostelworld.com to find affordable accommodations in the heart of the city. I stayed in a Kitchenet/one studio room apartment in the heart of the city from where all the major attractions like Flinders Station, Yarra River, MCG, Rod Laver Arena were at a walking distance. I spent approximately INR 38K. If possible, try and stay with your friends or families. Saves you lot of precious dollars.

Pegasus Apart'Hotel, CBD, Melbourne, Australia

Pegasus Apart’Hotel, CBD, Melbourne, Australia

CHOOSING THE RIGHT FOOD

Experiencing local cuisines is an important part of any travel but it doesn’t mean having every meal at expensive restaurants. Finding meal ideas in a grocery store can reveal as much—if not more—than a pre-cooked joint.  Cooking your own food is also a smart way to save dollars. Shop at local fruit and vegetable markets or supermarkets and make your own food. Ready to eat products like Heat & Eat precooked dishes, thepla, khakra, sandwiches, fruit are cheap and healthy options to take care of your taste buds and wallet. And don’t forget to check out Melbourne’s most sustainable restaurant.

Fruit & Vegetables Market, Queen Victoria, Melbourne, Australia

Fruit & Vegetables Market, Queen Victoria, Melbourne, Australia

CHOOSING THE RIGHT ACTIVITIES

As soon as you arrive at the airport look at activities/attractions coupons. Search online for offers. There are many one plus one or combo offers. As your hotels/hostel. They generally have discounted coupons. Ask for discounts. Compare tour operators’ cost. Sometimes liking a company’s FB page can get you a discount. Look for package deals like Great Ocean Road with Philip Island Penguin Parade package works out to be cheaper than doing them individually. Search about a tourist attraction.

Combine activities – for example when visiting the Blue Mountains then instead of just experiencing the Katoomba Scenic Railway (the steepest railway in the world) combine it up with scenic bush walks, musical concerts like Yule festival, horse adventures and get awestruck by stunningly wonderful Janolan caves.

Katoomba Railway, World's Steepest Railway, Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia

Katoomba Railway, World’s Steepest Railway, Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia

There are million other travel tips which you can make your first travel to Australia a once in a lifetime trip without spending a fortune. But I would stop here and let you unleash the explorer in you. And you have the biggest power at your disposal – Google Baba and of course travelseewrite.com.

If you liked the story or would want to know or share anything, the comment box is eagerly waiting for you 🙂

PG snorkeling

“When you release the burden of expectations you attain the freedom to enjoy things for what they are instead of what you think they should be.”

That has been my guiding principle behind most of my solo travels. I find more joy in serendipity than in a planned adventure.

A serendipitous travel to Puerto Galera, a weekend getaway from Manila in Philippines, helped me discover a hotbed of pristine blue seas and a marvelous underwater world where I put on my adventure hat and walked on the unknown path leading to Puerto Galera.

DAY 1 – WHEN STRANGERS BECAME SAVIOURS

Ignoring the warning of locals, I left for Batangas at 4:30 pm. I boarded a Wi-Fi enabled bus (yes, these are things in Philippines) from Buendia Station to Batangas Pier. By 6 pm I was at the ferry station. As soon as I alighted from the bus, a young guide took me to the ferry ticket counter in a hope to get a tip. There was no direct boat to the white beach but only to ferry going to Balatero, Puerto Galera at 7pm. While I was having a confused conversation with the ticket counter-lady, a group of boys and girls volunteered to guide me since they too were going to the same destination. At 7:45 pm we sailed from the Batangas Pier. My eyes were glued on to the amber ball – the sun. It was a sight to behold.

Sunset at Batangas pier, Batangas, Philippines

Boarding the last Ferry from Batangas Pier, Philippines

As we sailed, I immersed myself in the silky voice of Arijit Singh. At around 10:00 pm we reached the port. These strangers turned out to be my saviours. Not only did they guide me but also offered me a stay with them at their homestay. After a twenty minutes tricycle journey from Balatero to the White Beach we checked into the homestay. It wasn’t the kind of place I was looking forward to but beggars are not choosers. After freshening up, we went to the white beach, which was just 5 minutes away. It was one big beach party going on. Bar dancers gyrating to the pop numbers. Fire dancers displaying dare devilish but mesmerizing moves. The pork and seafood aroma filled the air. The sky in spite of being devoid of stars looked beautiful. Lightning in the far ends was playing hide and seek. The waves were dancing to their own music. The sand was silky smooth. I walked around the beach for few hours before calling it a night. And guess what? As soon as I entered the room, it started pouring like cats and dogs.

Fire dancers, Batangas, Philippines

The Fire Dancers displaying their art and skill, Puerto Galera, Batangas, Philippines

DAY 2 – WINNING OVER YOUR FEAR

Next day morning I decided to explore the place on my own. White Beach was genuinely white albeit a bit crowded. The azure water was straight out of many Hollywood movies. There was so much beauty around that words fail to express. Although the beach was bustling with life, I found my own quaint spot a mile away. No hotel can ever match this gigantic bathtub I was lying in. Sun had set the temp just right – 28 degree Celsius. The water had a calming effect on every nerve. I asked a stranger, Banja, to click some #instaclicks for my #instagram. After all if you don’t share you don’t care. A small talk led me to joining their group. The water sports activity area pumped my adrenaline. I chose to “fishfly” from parasailing, banana boat, and jetsking as it seemed the most adventurous and didn’t require a big group. It was scary initially as you fall into water from a great height on a speeding motorboat but then you get used to it. After half an hour of falling, floating and lying still into the sea, I moved on with my next plan – Snorkeling.

Fishflying at White Beach, Puerto Galera, Batangas, Philippines

Fishflying at White Beach, Puerto Galera, Batangas, Philippines

A tricycle took us to Sandbar. Sandbar is a tiny isthmus that connects the island of Mindoro with Boquete Island. To the east are the waters of Muelle Bay and to the west is the Little Balateros Cove. It is a romantic getaway with panoramic view of sunrise and sunset. Isolated yet accessible, situated between lush jungle hills and clear blue water.

sandbar2

Panoramic View from the Sandbar (pls click & see it on full-screen), Philippines

The splatter of raindrops over the sea was dreamlike. Soon our boatman arrived. Before I share my experience let me tell you more about why Puerto Galera is a famous diving site. Puerto Galera is said to be one of The World’s Most Beautiful Bays. It offers more than 30 superb dive sites with some amazingly diverse reefs. Its’ clear water hosts more than 3000 species of fish and marine animals. It is a haven for scuba enthusiasts a Mecca for underwater photographers. Unfortunately I wasn’t suitably prepared for either.

PG coral reef, Philippines

Puerto Galera Coral Reef, Philippines

The motorboat was cruising along. Raindrops were kissing my body and the breeze tantalizing me. When our banca reached the giant clam shells area, our boatman gave us our masks, life-jackets and instructions about snorkeling. My local friend had snorkeling experience and could swim well whereas I could do none. And the most irritating thing was the water mask. The rope, the mask, the floating on the water, the inexperience and most importantly the fear of getting drowned didn’t allow me to enjoy what was underneath me. I panicked and asked the guy to get me into the boat. More than me, my partner and boatman were disappointed. They kept giving me the pep talk. Finally I decided to win over my fear. And there I was in the water. After trying for some time I got the technique right. I guess it wasn’t the technique that was stopping me it was the fear. When I got over my fear I was exposed to a beauty that I had only heard and seen through pictures but never experienced by my own eyes. I was stunned on what I saw. Colourful fishes of different shapes and sizes, corals, sea urchins, water plants and what not! I sprinkled bread pieces into water and an army of fish surrounded me. It was a sight to behold. I was speechless of the life I saw underneath. I had never missed a GoPro as much as I did that day.

Snorkeling, Philippines

Snorkeling – Holding the rope tight while the magic is unfolding below, Philippines

PG snorkeling & fishes

Surrounded by Fishes in Puerto Galera, Philippines

For half an hour I was in that magical underwater world. Then we set off on our island-hoping trip. We reached a private beautifully manicured beach, which seemed deserted. Looking at the island it seemed the owner was clearly in love with ‘FRIDAY’.

Island Hopping at a Private Beach, Puerto Galera, Philippines

Island Hopping at a Private Beach, Puerto Galera, Philippines

After spending an amazing time with the underwater beauty we got back to our pads. My heart was still lost in that underwater world. I could not thank enough the two strangers, Banja and my boatman, for motivating me to take that leap of faith. It is when we clear the boundaries of our mind that we receive the insurmountable conspicuous and inconspicuous benefits that we could never even imagine.

In the evening, I chose conversations over loud music – an Italian resto bar to have some peaceful time. Peaceful it was but Italian it wasn’t. The pseudo Filipino Italian Pizza lacked character and taste. I then moved on to the White Beach. There were enough entertainment options – cabaret shows, fire dancers, live music, fresh seafood stalls and a lot more. However, I settled for a breezy sit down ‘conversation place’ where the surround sound was just enough to add to the background and not distract. The conversations about our respective countries, cultures, travels, love and life kept getting meatier with every glass of the Mindoro Sling, a mix of rum and fruit juices!

The Night life at the White Beach, Puerto Galera, Philippines

The Night life at the White Beach, Puerto Galera, Philippines

Mindora Sling

Don’t forget to have the famous ‘Mindora Sling’

Next day with a bagful of memories I was back to the concrete jungle but with a New me – the one who won over her fear.

MY EXPENSE SHEET:

Taxi: 120 php (To and fro from Makati to Buendia Station)

Bus: 316 php (150 + 166 – To and fro from Buendia to Batangas Pier)

Ferry/Boat: 535 php (200 + 275 + 50 + 10 – Return Fare + environmental fees)

Homestay: 2000 php (1000/night)

Food & Drinks: 1000 php

Activities: 780 php (500 – Fishfly, 280 – snorkeling)

Local Travel: 100 php

TOTAL = 4851 php (6847 INR) (more…)

Disaster is a gift wrapped opportunity header

John Lloyd is a popular TV and Radio figure in Britain. Whatever he touched turned into gold. He was an idea machine. He was the brain behind popular British TV programs like Not the Nine O’Clock News, Spitting Image, The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy, Blackadder, QI and The Museum of Curiosity. The who’s who of the industry lined up to work with him. He had fame. Name. Fortune. To the outside world, it seemed like he was the perfect template of success.

Not really.

Perception often deceives realty. In spite of achieving tremendous success, John Lloyd lived a life of constant struggle consisting of fallouts and multiple sackings. He became depressed wondering why he was kicked out from the projects which were his creations. Why people who wanted to work with him once, would no more want to be anywhere near him. These led to depression. Until one day he realised that, what seemed like disaster each time was actually an opportunity gift wrapped.

He realised disaster was his weapon of success

He wouldn’t have tried so many things if he hadn’t been fired so many times. If everything was smooth he’d have just stayed where he was. But each time he was forced to leave, it meant he was forced to start something new again.

So each time disaster turned out to be an opportunity gift wrapped. This is the John Lloyd story.

This is the longest prelude I have ever written for any story. This story is not about the wonderful places that I have travelled to but it is about the struggles that have led to them. I might not have achieved even 0.0000001% of what John achieved but every disaster turned out to be an opportunity gift wrapped for me as well.

2012 was a year of crisis. I felt everything that I worked towards was crashing. I was broke – mentally, physically and financially. I was inside a perfect disaster. As with every disaster, it presented an opportunity in the form of a solo Euro trip. My family pushed me to explore life leaving behind my baggage ala Kangana’s ‘Queen’ style. (Before your wild horses run loose let me tell you I wasn’t left at the altar.) So here I was in a foreign land with foreign people with no perceived security and familiarity. I was completely vulnerable. I was both shy as well as scared to approach strangers. I was scared about being  judged. I was scared that people might take advantage of me. I was scared but was determined not to let this get in the way of realising a dream. I realised that the demons were not in others but in my own head. The strangers were far more welcoming and caring than even friends were. I was accepted with open arms.

Europe

The Swarovski Crystal World museum, Wattens, Austria

Solo Europe trip

Vatican City, where faith is so strong that even strangers become friends

Italy

Finally the first chapter of EAT PRAY LOVE came to life in Italy 🙂

This solo trip turned out to be a turning point in my life. Though I was a travel buff from childhood but this trip became the foundation of my unshakable confidence to do whatever I wanted to do in life without fearing for results.

Another Disaster that turned out to be an opportunity gift wrapped was my solo trip to Ladakh in 2014. Like many others, I too was enamoured by Ladakh (And no, Three Idiots didn’t put it in my bucket list). After many failed attempts year after year, I decided 2014  has to be the year of Ladakh, irrespective of whether I go with friends or strangers. I had not traveled solo before in India (for obvious reasons). So I searched and searched online until I found a group which fitted my budget and where I knew the organiser. The organiser made me a part of a group of seven people who were to travel by two motorbikes and one SUV. Sounded like a perfect adventure that I was so looking forward to.

However, when God has a bigger and better plan for you then smaller plan falls out-of-place. Out of the seven people, everyone backed out at the last moment. And the best part was, I wasn’t even informed about the same until the last-minute. Suddenly reality struck me. I was scammed. I had already paid the advance. I was told since most people backed out, it was not financially feasible for the company to organise this trip solely for me. And as an option they offered me a travel package to Chandrataal with another group. I was furious but  did not lose my cool. I had three options – either join another group to Chandrataal or go back to Delhi or stick to the original plan even if there was no plan. No prize for guessing what I chose.

Breaking for lunch at Bharatpur

The bigness of the Himalayas makes you realise what a tiny spec you are in the scheme of things.

Every dark cloud has a silver lining. And this travel became one of the most cherished travel of my life. I saw Ladakh in a new light – from a Local’s vision. I made friends for life. I was invited to local festivals and marriages. I bonded with the locals at a deeper level. Never ever did anyone try to take advantage of me. In fact, they went out of their way to help me out. And a bond for life was made. A bond that cannot be explained in words.

Taking a Pee-Tea-Photo Break at Changla Pass with my Fabulous Five Friends

At Changla Pass, Ladakh with my Fabulous Five Friends

I was so overwhelmed with this experience that I felt compelled to share this experience with others. Not that I wanted to tom-tom about my trip but in a world full of hate and selfishness this was a story of human compassion. This was a story of hope. This was a story of convictions winning over doubts. This was an opportunity winning over a disaster. This became another turning point in my life. The idea of Travel See Write was born. I started documenting and sharing my travel experiences with people. If this disaster had not happened I would have never got into travel blogging. You can read my entire Ladakh story here: 11 days in leh ladakh – 11 faces of beauty

The Defiant Dreamers posing at Bharatpur

Let me confess something. Before this trip, I always thought I was not creative and probably a very lousy writer. Someone who could just write campaign briefs and brand strategies but not get into writing. People remember stories not words. And that’s probably the reason why most successful people are great storytellers. Richard Branson, Obama, Steve Jobs, Walt Disney, Warren Buffet, Elon Musk, Rihana are all storytellers first and later what their profession defines them. It is their art of storytelling that separates them from the rest. They mastered the art of successful storytelling – providing a glue that resonates with people and bonds them together.

Storytelling comes naturally when you have unshakable confidence in yourself and when you are not scared to face any disaster.

After all every disaster is an opportunity gift wrapped.

So go ahead and embrace the disaster.

I would love to hear how disaster turned into an opportunity for you.

After an action packed road trip to Real Quezon on May 1st holiday and watching the much hyped but tad boring bout between Mayweather and Manny Pacquiao, I wanted to take my Sunday easy and that’s why decided to visit  Intramurosthe walled city of Metro Manila. As any google search will reveal, the fortified city of Intramuros was built during Spanish colonial times to protect the seat of government. Located along the Manila Bay near the southern bend of the Pasig River, Intramuros’ location was very strategic for trade and for defense. Today, museums and old buildings bring centuries of Filipino history back to life, making Intramuros one of the top cultural and tourist spots .

Before the Spanish discovered and colonised Philippines, Intramuros was the home for the Tagalog and Kapampangan tribes and used primarily for trading with the likes of Borneo, Indonesia, India, and China. In 1565 Philippines was discovered by the explorer Miguel Lopez de Legazpi who sailed from Mexico (then called New Spain) to this country of 7000 islands, establishing the first Spanish colony in Cebu. After a couple of years and a lot of bloodshed, Manila was declared as the Spanish colony’s new capital.

The period between 1500s to the late 1800s  saw the Spanish construct many churches, convents as well as schools in the fortified city, making it the center for religion and education in the Philippines at the time. The walls are not uniform as they were constructed during different time periods and also as they followed the contours of the bay. The walls today cover 64 hectares of land,are 8 feet thick with some of the walls reaching up to 22 feet.

In the Second World War, the city was severely damaged. However, the city still brings alive the past quite beautifully. So let me take you into the history books.

Fort Santiago: This former military headquarters of the Spanish colonial government withstood heavy damage during the 1945 Battle of Manila. José Rizal, the national hero of the Philippines, was imprisoned here prior to his execution on 30 Dec 1896.

Fort Santiago iconic gate featuring Santiago Matamoros, the patron saint of Spain

Fort Santiago iconic gate featuring Santiago Matamoros, the patron saint of Spain, Manila

 

The Rizal Shrine, Intramuros, Manila

The Rizal Shrine, Intramuros, Manila

Mango trees covered walkway in Fort Santiago, Intramuros, Manila

Mango trees covered walkway in Fort Santiago, Intramuros, Manila

Manila Cathedral seen from Fort Santiago

Manila Cathedral seen from Fort Santiago

The Pigeon House in the picnic gardens of Fort Santiago

The Pigeon House in the picnic gardens of Fort Santiago

 

Fort Santiago, Intramuros, Manila

Fort Santiago Security guard on duty 😛

Fort Santiago, Intramuros, Manila

Another security guard on duty 😛

Fort Santiago, Intramuros, Manila

More security guards :p

Minor Basilica of the Immaculate Conception (Manila Cathedral): Destroyed and rebuilt eight times over, the Cathedral is the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Manila and one of the most important churches in the Philippines.

Manila Cathedral, Intramuros, Manila

Manila Cathedral, Intramuros, Manila

Manila cathedral and Police HQ

Manila cathedral and Police HQ, Intramuros, Manila

Manila Cathedral

Manila Cathedral

manila cathedral1

The inside view of the Manila Cathedral

manila cathedral back shot

Manila cathedral back shot

Manila Cathedral Arch seen from Intramuros back alleys

Manila Cathedral Arch seen from Intramuros back alleys

A wedding happening at the Manila Cathedral, Intramurous

A wedding happening at the Manila Cathedral, Intramurous

San Agustín Church: A UNESCO world heritage site, is the oldest stone church currently standing in the Philippines. The church is a very popular venue for weddings; and I was fortunate enough to catch the wedding ceremony in progress during my visit.

San Agustin Church

San Agustin Church

Saint Augustine church

Wedding Ceremony at Saint Augustine church

St. Augustine church

St. Augustine church at dusk

Other Buildings and Streets: Casa Manila, ruins of the Intendencia, Bahay Tsinoy, Baluarte de San Diego,Puerta de Parian, Aduana, Ayuntamiento (Casas Consistoriales), Plazuela de Sta. Isabel, and the Plaza San Luis Complex, ECJ Building, Bayleaf Hotel among many others.

Casa Manila

Casa Manila

warehouse

Warehouse building that is still functional

manila war memorial 1

Manila war memorial

intramuros street at night

intramuros streets at night

Intramuros street at night

Intramuros street at night

Intramuros street at night

Intramuros street at night

Manila Bayleaf hotel

Manila Bayleaf hotel

It was a day well spent in living the history.

Verdict

Touristy destination? Yes. But worth going? Definitely yes.

Do keep a look out on many more Filipino Sojourns from me.

Till then Travel See Write.

IMG_20141109_092521
People envy you because your travel plans don’t depend on their schedule. People get jealous because you have travel tales that they can only dream about. People fail to understand how you maintain a steady balance of work and life. People aspire to travel like you but don’t have the guts to take the plunge. People will always say “You are lucky to live your dream” but will never try their luck.

 

As they say, grass is always greener on the other side. So is the case of a SOLO TRAVELER, especially, if you are a female solo traveler. Though there are many perks of being a female solo traveler like people generally treat you nicely, are happy to help and give you more attention than others. But there is an Ugly Truth Of Traveling Solo. So if you are aspiring to travel solo then read this post before embarking on your journey.

  1. Solo traveler is a bigger threat than ISIS: Whichever part of the world you might be traveling in, being single will raise eyebrows. Men will hit upon you. I consider myself below average looking but still I haven’t been to a single place (in India and abroad) where people have not tried their luck. In a developed country like Singapore I was asked questions like, “Why are you still Single? Why don’t you have a boyfriend? What is your age? Are you there on FB?” Etcetera etcetera. Back home in the Tamil quarter of Pondicherry I was refused a room because I was traveling solo. I couldn’t take a stroll on the beach without the sight of a middle-aged uncle’s neck moving at a 180-degree angle synced with my movement.
  1. Lesser bargaining power: Everybody wants to earn more with less effort so you’ll be refused for a ride or asked to pay double. You can’t order too many dishes at a time because you’ll always have the looming fear of not to waste food. You can’t split your accommodation or travel bills with others. Even when you are traveling solo, your plan will still depend on others’ plan. During my recent visit to Pichavaram, I wanted to take a longer boat ride to not just see the mangrove forest but to see the Pichavaram beach as well, which is usually not explored by the tourists. After a long wait I had to convince random strangers to come along with me as no boat would take me alone or else I had to shell out lot of money.
  1. Dress not as you like but to avoid the creepy eyes: When you are in a group nobody looks at you with vulture eyes and microscopic lens. But when you are alone, all eyes are fixated on you. A creepy look makes you feel as if you are completely naked. A short dress is considered to be an invitation. You have to keep a low profile. You can’t hang out late at nights. You can’t get drunk. You have to pretend at restaurants as if you are waiting for someone to join you.
  1. Be prepared to get scammed: People will take you for a ride when you are riding solo. You will encounter many touts that would want to scam you by luring you to take you to beautiful places at very economical prices. One of my friends got mugged by one such group in the land of Gods – Uttarakhand. I too had a horrific experience. On my first day of Ladakh trip and in Manali, I was told because the group backed out therefore I am on my own and I should forgo my 50% advance.
  1. Experience awkwardness due to language barriers: Though language barriers can spoil anyone’s trip – a group or an individual, it impacts individuals more because they are literally on their own at all times and have no comforting shoulder to empathise. I was in Pulau Ubin, a remote island on the outskirts of Singapore, where no one understood English. First I got dropped at a wrong station and then while sight seeing I had to spend couple of hours waiting for the driver to pick me from the pickup point because he couldn’t tell me that I don’t require a full day to explore that tiny place. 

There are countless more reasons that I can elucidate with examples, which would deter any new solo traveler. However, in spite of horrific travel tales the goodness has overshadowed the negatives. While solo traveling, the experiences which you will accumulate are unparalleled and worth gold. And I wouldn’t exchange that gold for petty bad incidents.

So don’t be scared. Be little more cautious and Travel See Write.

Pamban Bridge https://www.flickr.com/photos/ashwinkumar/11875905643/in/photolist-8jBA2E-j6r7Lp-61b7f7- aFPKfv-4Ps6py-bNAA24-24x4r-j6rUUY-j6rV7G-j6rTP1-j6pCZ6-j6r74n-j6r7ZR-j6tYeb-j6u1jU- j6pDgD-j6u1K3-5Zx4Bo

Blue skies, crystal clear waters, amazing beaches, views to die for, exquisite flora, breathtaking fauna, air of tranquility and calm sunny journeys. If this is your idea of a perfect trip to an island, then I think we’re sailing in the right direction. India, because of our beautiful habits and love for water, is marked by waters that aren’t blue anymore and beaches that have more waste than sand. So where to go? Worry not, because what is about to follow might just be what you were looking for. Presenting to you, some of the most magnificent islands in India:

  1. Andaman and Nicobar Islands

This group of 572 islands is a sea lover’s paradise. Since Andaman is considerably far from the mainland, the waters have their natural color and present stunning views. Right from the beautiful journey where you can see patches of green in the big blue sea to the point when you take off from Port Blair’s stunning airport for your home, it has something in it for everyone. There is the Havelock Island if you want to spend a day on the beach, there is the Ross Island for a good walk, there is Baratang Island if you want to witness tribal life over a 50 km stretch and for everyone else, there are a range of activities like snorkeling, scuba diving, trekking and water games. All in all, this place will surely amaze you with the diversity of flora and fauna it is home to.

Andaman and Nicobar Source: https://www.flickr.com/photos/rabanito/3416817267

Andaman and Nicobar
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/rabanito/3416817267

 

  1. Lakshadweep Islands

This group of 36 islands is a delightful treat to the eyes of every visitor. Being away from the mainland justifies the cleanliness of the waters here as well. Marked by sandy beaches and coral reefs, Lakshadweep Islands are much more beautiful than they look in this picture. With the vast expanse of greenery, it makes for a perfect vacation that offers peace and freshness. The place has been endowed with rich marine wealth. Living corals, sea urchins, sea weeds, sea birds, eels, swordfish, octopus and numerous types of trigger fish are a common sight here. The Marine Museum also demands a visit.

Lakshadweep https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lakshadweep

Lakshadweep
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lakshadweep

 

  1. Rameswaram Island

If you’ve seen Chennai Express, and were amazed by the beauty of the bridge and the waters underneath it when Shahrukh Khan and Deepika Padukone travel to immerse the protagonist’s grandfather’s ashes in the sea, then Rameshwaram Island and Pamban Road might just be the perfect location for you. Located between Peninsular India and Sri Lanka in the Gulf of Mannar, Rameshwaram is essentially a pilgrimage centre. It is also known as Pamban Island and is considered to be a corridor of faith all over. It is said that on his way to Sri Lanka, Lord Rama worshipped Lord Shiva and installed a lingam before crossing over to Lanka. So naturally, the temple with the Rameswara lingam is a must visit. Places to see are Sri Ramanathaswamy Temple, Agnitheertham, Gandamadana Parvatham, Dhanushkodi, Jada Theertham and Viloondi Theertham.

Rameswaram https://www.flickr.com/photos/prince_tigereye/2505201617

Rameswaram https://www.flickr.com/photos/prince_tigereye/2505201617

 

  1. Elephanta Island

One of the weekend getaway from Mumbai, Elephanta island is an excellent option for a one day trip. A UNESCO world heritage site, the most spectacular thing about this place is that the cave temples here have been carved from the rocks which makes it very unique and one of its kind. Thickly wooded mango, tamarind and palm trees can be found here. It is about 10 kms away from the Gateway of India, and regular boat facilities are available for traveling from both the sides.

Elephanta https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Elephanta_island_from_a_distance.JPG

Elephanta https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Elephanta_island_from_a_distance

  1. Majuli Island

Majuli is an island located on the Brahmaputra River in the state of Assam. It is known for the various migratory birds, making it no less than a bird sanctuary. The biggest mid stream deltaic island on the planet, it makes for a beautiful vacation. The assemblage of various ethnic groups while retaining their individuality is a remarkable feature of the island. Garamur Satra, Auniati Satra, Dakhinpat Satra, Kamalabari Satra, Bengenaati Satra, and Samaguri Satra are some of the beautiful spots which make you realize that there is something heavenly about this place.

Majuli Island https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Majuli

Majuli Island https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Majuli

 

  1. Diu Island

If the Ilha De Calma advertisement makes you fall for its serenity, then Diu Island makes for a good trip. Sunny beaches and amazing nightfalls are two things that characterize Diu. Located on the Western Coast beside Gujarat, this place enthralls you with its simplicity. No fancy shopping hubs and sports activities, it succeeds in slowing down your life for a few days. The seashell museum, bird watchtower, Diu fort and the caves of Nayda are really nice. Gangeshwar Mahadev Temple, St.Paul’s Church, INS Khukri Memorial and Fortim-do-mar are a few more places to visit if you somehow escape the tranquility charm of the Island.

Diu https://www.flickr.com/photos/bijapuri/67965400

Diu
https://www.flickr.com/photos/bijapuri/67965400

 

This article was contributed by Holidify.com, a portal which helps discover holiday options and weekend getaways from Delhi, Mumbai and other places in India.

 

 

“It’s more fun in the Philippines”

Pic taken by using Autofocus of Asus Zenfone 2 Laser

El Nido, Philippines, voted as the best island in the world

Neither had I heard this line before nor a thought to visiting this Asian paradise crossed my mind until I visited it for work. But when you have zero expectations, you get maximum return. Others opinions and tastes don’t cloud your mind. And that’s exactly what happened to me on my first visit to the Philippines. This asian paradise is everything but your regular South East Asian country. From the time I landed in the unspoiled heaven until I took off, I was completely mesmerized by this magical land.

Here are my reasons why you should junk your plans to visit any other Southeast Asian country and straight away head to the Philippines:

1) People

Filipinos are the friendliest people you’ll come across anywhere in South East Asia. Even if you wake them up in the middle of the night or repeatedly ask silly questions, you’ll still be greeted with a never-ending genuine smile. They are extremely warm and hospitable. Like Indians, they too believe in “attithi devo bhava” (Guest is equivalent to God). You’ll be invited to their homes. You’ll be asked to participate in the all-night karaoke activity (their favorite pastime). You’ll be fed the tastiest meal – Lechon, Adobo, Halo Halo dessert, Buko Pie dessert, Balut fertilized duck eggs, an amazing variety of seafood, freshest and juiciest tropical fruits or any other kind of world cuisine your heart desires. If you are lucky then you would be offered Kopi Luwak – the most expensive coffee. You’ll be given the best bed to sleep. Basically, no corners will be cut to give you a VIP treatment. When you visit any store you’ll be addressed with “Good evening Mam”, “Mam, may I help you”, “Mam, please visit again”. Even if you ask them at midnight for an excursion trip, be rest assured it will be organized. The doorman will not blink an eyelid when you ask him to call for a taxi at wee hours. If you are new to the city, they’ll come to your place to pick you up. You’ll be showered with compliments – “Hey pretty lady, you are so beautiful”. Nobody will hustle you. Although, you will be cautioned to stay away from the old parts of the city at late hours.

Filipinos are always smiling even if they are faced with problems that would normally depress or put down people from other nations.

Filipinos are always smiling irrespective of the problems

2) Variety of experiences

Whether you like island hopping or exploring the unexplored beauty of warm-water beaches and coastlines you can have to yourself or trekking through the smoldering volcanoes or exploring the intricate cave systems or travelling back in an historical era or getting the adrenaline rush through water sports or diving into oceans for underwater landscapes or discovering the undiscovered backpacker trails or anything else you can think of…The Philippines has it all. It’s a paradise for nature and wildlife lovers – 200 mammal species, 600 species of birds, and 488 coral species. Can you imagine the thrill of kayaking in world’s longest navigable Puerto Princesa Underground River in Palawan or taking a 1-2 hrs of a scenic boat ride to get to the majestic 91 m Pagsanjan Falls? I reckon you can’t. Unless you experience it yourself.

The 91m majestic Pagsanjan Falls, Laguna,

The 91m majestic Pagsanjan Falls, Laguna, Philippines

3) Unexplored Islands

Finding a picture perfect beach that isn’t overcrowded is like finding a needle in the hay. Unless you’re in the Philippines. In a country made up of over 7,000 islands, beautiful beaches are bound to be everywhere. If you like to party on dreamy white beaches then Boracay Island is your destination. If you want to be on untouched breathtaking landscape then head to Dumaluan Beach of Panglao Island in Bohol, Coron and El Nido Islands of Palawan, Dumaguete and Camiguin Islands among 1000s of other hidden heavens. The good thing about the Philippines is you don’t have to travel for hours to get off the beaten track and find a serene beach. Diving here is a blast!  488 among the 500 known coral species in the world are found here. Many of which has grown since the Ice Age.

Take a Morning Stroll at Virgin Island, Panglao

Virgin Island, Panglao, Philippines

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Sunset at Las Cabanas Beach, El Nido, Palawan, Philippines

4) South America of Asia

Being ruled by Spain for 350 years, Philippines carry a huge resemblance to South America in terms of architecture, religion, culture, and festivals. But Spanish did not mingle with the local that’s why the Spanish language could never become the first language of the Filipinos. Very few Spanish married or settled with Filipinos and it is very easy to find out who did. As my local friend chuckled-

With Spanish blood – white skin and pointed nose. Without Spanish blood – brown skin and disappointed noses.

However, Americans, who ruled the Philippines for 48 years, embraced the locals with open arms. No wonder 90% of the Filipinos speak English, basketball is the most watched sports and the highest paid athlete is a boxer. Jeepneys – their famous transport vehicle too is a gift from America. Americans too love the country that’s why the second highest number of tourist comes from America every year.

Jeepney

Jeepney – the 100% personalised and cheap local means of transport, Philippines

5) Great value for money

The Philippines won’t burn a hole in your pocket. It offers amazing value to what you end up spending. Transportation is cheap – Jeepneys, Pedicycles, Tricycles, Bancas and not to forget the low-cost airlines like Cebu Pacific, PAL Express, Air Asia etc. Hotels are cheap. The excursions are not only cheap and adventurous but safe too. Food seems to be tastier. Thanks to the lesser amount you spend on eating out. Manila is Shopper’s delight – Greenbelt and Fort Bonifacio for high-end flashpackers and Greenhills for bargain hunters. Though tipping is a part of the Filipino culture people are not money minded. And guess what? Their service tax is just 5% as compared to our 14%. At the end of the day, spending money on exploring the Philippines is money well spent.

Filipinos love their Malls. Seen here is Greenbelt Mall, Makati City

Greenbelt, Makati City  – Malls in the Philippines are huge and green

A meal even at a high end restaurant doesn't cost too much

A meal even at a high-end restaurant doesn’t cost too much in the Asian paradise

I can go on and on describing my new found but long lasting love for the Philippines. But I would stop here and let you discover it yourself.

Related: Why Bohol is a must visit Island in Philippines

Related: How to get to Coron from El Nido in Philippines

As a parting thought, please do have a look at this video. I am sure you won’t be thinking for long where to go next 🙂

TRAVEL TIPS TO VISIT THE ASIAN PARADISE:

  1. Best time to travel is November to March
  2. Couchsurfing community is very active here, which helps you in getting to visit the interesting places which might take you years to spot
  3. Do food shopping from local malls or convenience stores to save money
  4. When you get down to the airport, be ready to spend 1-2 hours waiting for a metered taxi. Else, shell out more money
  5. Try local transport – Jeepneys, the very unique, customized and modified American Jeeps. Tricycles – motorcycles with a sidecar attached.
  6. Tipping is a prevalent culture in the Asian paradise. Though there’s no minimum tip amount some people might expect for as high as 200php. Give as much as you please not as much as they expect. Tip between 30-50php is good.
  7. Sample local food. There is enough variety for all. I am a vegetarian and unlike other countries, I didn’t struggle for food here
  8. Travel back in time – visit Intramuros – the old Spanish quarter, Ayala museum, Blackbird, Nielson Tower – A heritage site converted into an Alfresco dining place from country’s first airport
  9. Don’t spend too much time in the city. Get out and explore. If struggling for time, take day tours to Pagsanjan falls, Tagaytay volcano and lake trek, Corrigedor war memorial, hidden valley among others
  10. Filipinos are music lovers. It is an understatement to say that Filipinos love karaoke. Make sure you are a good singer before approaching the mic. Besides visiting the local karaoke or videoke bars, do keep an eye on international music concerts. One Direction was performing the night I left the Philippines. Wish I had searched earlier.

Sometimes when you are in a long distance relationship, you miss out on the daily moments of happiness. But that doesn’t mean your feelings change. In fact your feelings grow stronger and fonder with each passing day. If presence strengthens love, absence sharpens it. And when you meet again magic unfolds. Love and magic have a great deal in common. They mesmerize the eyes, enrich the soul and delight the heart. And they both take a sincere effort to make it work.

26th January 2015 was one such moment, when I again met my first love – Pangong Tso. Love is like pi — natural, irrational and never ending. And so on the day when our forces and paramilitary forces were displaying their military prowess and love for the nation, I was parading my unflinching love for the Himalayan masterpiece – Pangong Tso, the highest saline water lake in India. As they say, sweet are the fruits of adversity. Despite the harsh cold weather and bad health, I treaded on the difficult but heavenly path to embrace my love.

 

Leh to Chang La – Road to both Heaven and Hell

Frozen shores of Indus enroute to Pangong Tso

Frozen shores of Indus enroute to Pangong

With my travel buds, Sidd and Rutwik, I embarked on the beautiful journey, which was ready to enthrall us in a way that no one had imagined. But not before setting a foundation of a great adventure. Thanks to extreme cold (-20 degree C), our car – Xylo got extremely lazy. Chucking our early start plans out of window, it refused to wake up until 9:30 am. With empty stomach but starry eyes we finally started off our journey, when the reticent sun was out to give us company. Our first pit stop was at Punjabi Dhaba at Karu. Aloo parathas with cholle and curd were delicious; service was quick and price was economical. The landscape was breathtaking – frozen Indus shores with emerald green water, sleepy golden brown valleys, mountains decked up in white, brown, grey, purple attire, mud houses adorned with colourful Om mani padme hum prayer flags, serpentine buttery roads, locals greeting us with a friendly Julle. Very soon our car crossed the plains and cautiously entered the frozen zone. It was skating on first and second gear on freshly powdered snow. Before starting our final ascent to the mighty Changla Pass at Zingral, we had a heart-in-a-mouth experience when our car skidded and turned by 120 degrees. Few inches here and there and this article would have never seen the light of day but thankfully our experienced Ladakhi driver saved the day and we were back on track.

Zingrail

Zingral Army Base camp where our car skid

Chang La to Pangong Tso – Summer Hues changed to Ice Age Setup

Frozen Changla - The Third Highest Motorable Pass

Frozen Changla – The Third Highest Motorable Pass

As our car stopped at Changla, a furry Himalayan fox look alike dog came to welcome us. Changla normally has snow always on top but this time it was different, the whole landscape was white and barring a few army personnel and few dogs there was no living being in sight. I was running high fever and wasn’t in a condition to step out but how can you miss posing at world’s third highest motorable road pass? So I stepped out, only to realize that the blizzard was too much to handle for a city slicker like me. Within two minutes I was back in our car. After the mandatory photo-op for ten minutes we started our onward journey to the brackish lake. The down slope towards Durbuk has changed from what I had seen in August. The whole stretch of sand zones and glacial streams was covered by snow. Looked like God had put a pause button on everything. Pagal Nallah looked like a piece of cotton ball – so beautiful and so pristine that you couldn’t possibly imagine what it becomes in summers. Instead of the lichen and wild grasses in shades of reds, golds and lime greens there was just one shade – frozen white snow. No friendly marmots or Bar Headed Goose or Brahmini Duck was in sight. However, there were wild horses and pashmina goat running around.

Around 2’o’clock, I saw Pangong Tso, my first love again. The first view of the lake was unbelievable. My love was a little off colour. Where had the colourful lake vanished? Did Chinese steal it overnight? Did Monday blues suck the blues out of the most beautiful blues? Thankfully none of it happened. Only Pangong Lake was trying a new outfit – a pristine white suit. I was so excited seeing the first glimpse of the lake that I was dying to hug it tightly and to never let it go. At last, the long parted lovers had met. I had fallen in love with my first love, again.

First glimpse of Pangong Tso

First glimpse of Pangong Tso, Ladakh

Two shades of Pangong Tso – Frozen and Non Frozen

We reached the 3 idiots point, usually a spot bustling with tourists and makeshift dhabas in summers, transformed into a land without a trace of civilisation. It was just the three itinerant travelers and my first love – Pangong Tso. Though the lake was not completely frozen, the tapestry of blue was missing, which usually reflects seven shades on a sunny day in summer. But it still looked amazing. Pangong Tso is not called the ‘enchanted lake’ for nothing. Whether summer or winter, it doesn’t fail to startle you. Though it was drop-dead gorgeous, the -20 degree Celsius weather and wind-chill was acting a spoilsport. Much against my will, I had to get back to the comfort of my car. However, the heart wasn’t yet ready to bid adieu to my love. So we requested our driver to take us on the frozen part of the lake. We were driving on the frozen lake. Taking careful steps, we first walked then jumped then summersaulted like excited little kids. Our cameras went click…click…click. After spending some quality time, with heavy heart I said bye to my love with a promise to come soon.

The non-frozen part of Pangong Tso

The non-frozen part of Pangong Tso

Our next pit stop was Tangtse where we had the most awesome momos, fried rice and thukpa in the only open restaurant – Peace Restaurant. Like the restaurant, peace was all over the place.

 

Changla to Leh – The Adventure of our life

Traffic jams are dreaded everywhere but nothing comes closer to a traffic jam at 17,800 ft. We had the misfortune of getting stuck in one. Thanks to the stupidity of a Xylo driver, we were stuck in a traffic jam for 2.5 hours. The guy had blocked one way on an icy narrow mountaintop and then its diesel froze. Four cars with tourists from different places were praying for their life. All the drivers were trying their best to move the vehicle. Finally it did move on a side but its engine stopped working. All other cars had put iron wheel chains to cut ice on the road and avoid falling in the deep valley. Darkness along with heavy snowfall and winds had engulfed the valley. After reaching Changla, our car abruptly broke down. Our driver removed the wheel chain which has damaged in the descend. While we were praying for our car to start, the driver from the stranded Xylo came and requested us to give lift to their passengers. We agreed but three hours of standing still in the extreme cold had taken a toll on our car too. Our fuel pump had given up. Our driver had to burn his gloves to heat the diesel pipe so that diesel could flow into the engine cylinders. After soaking in the heat from the gloves, the pump started working and we were ready to go. We waited for half an hour but when the other Xylo passengers’ did not show up, we decided to descend as our own safety was in jeopardy. But God had other plans. Hardly had we moved one and a half kilometers, our car broke down again. We were fervently praying and somewhere cursing our decision to come to Pangong Lake. We were in deep trouble. The snow-clad mountains that looked so beautiful during the day were scaring the hell out of us at night. There was no light, no sound, no connectivity, and no human in sight. Our extra diesel was about to get over. Cold was tearing us apart. I was now running very high fever. Just the thought of spending the night in that goofy extremely cold world’s third highest motorable road was sending chills to my bones. I was scared for my life. Our driver took off his jacket and was planning to burn it too to heat the diesel pipe but thanks to a bunch of helpful locals, who were coming upwards, helped us start the car and advised the driver to cover the front of the engine with his jacket and drive the car in first gear only. Thanks to their sound advise, we managed to reach safely to the valley. And all of us heaved a sigh of relief. We reached the comforts of Leh at 10.30 pm.

 The Pangong experience can’t be described in words or pictures. It is a lifetime experience, which must be in everyone’s to-do list.

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A photo essay on why you should visit Ladakh in Winters

Frozen Indus in winters

The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes.

 I understood the true meaning of Marcel’s words when I saw Ladakh in a completely new light, in its harshest but truest form. This was when the roof of the world was cut off from the rest of the world and was wrapped in a blanket of snow, ice and hardship.

A visit to Ladakh in winters is a digital detoxification trip where time and space bear no relevance. A million emotions erupted as I stood admiring the frozen Ladakh’s incredible beauty. Like hundreds, my initial plan was to do the glamorous Chadar Trek but the creator had a better plan in store for me. On reaching Leh airport, I got the news that Chadar Trek has been called off. I was heartbroken but instead of whining about it, I decided to do an alternate trek, Sham Valley. Though the trek was fairly easy and not as half renowned as Chadar , it bought me face to face with the real beauty of the land, which is hardly known or explored. Ladakh in winters is an intimidating yet overwhelming experience. Temperature in winters drop to -30 degree Celsius and the definition of basic amenities gets redefined.

Why did I plan my Ladakh trip in winters? Well I take pride in calling myself as a TRAVELER and not a TOURIST. I chose to explore Ladakh in its harshest times because I wanted to connect with the soul of the place and wanted to explore what is usually not seen. And I must say the reward was beyond anything that I have seen.

HERE ARE 10 REASONS WHY YOU SHOULD PLAN A LADAKH TRIP IN WINTERS:

  1. EXPERIENCE THE REAL HOSPITALITY OF LADAKH:

Unlike west, Ladakh is not geared to have comfortable winters. But it is the time when you get to see the genuine beauty of the roof of the world. The only way to enjoy this beauty is to acclimatize to the local culture and habits as fast as you can. Most of the hotels in Leh are closed during winters and the only option available are the frugal Home stays – traditional Ladakhi houses. The Home Stays are basic. Most of the time, you would end up sleeping in a sleeping bag or a mattress on the floor. The water pipes freeze and water (hot and cold) is provided only by bucket. Bathing is a luxury, which no one dares to dream. No flush toilets. Only ‘compost toilets’— usually a hole in the floor on one level, where ‘excreta’ drop to ground level below, after which a liberal sprinkling of soil is deposited on top of the growing pile. Food is cooked by the local family and is mostly traditional Ladakhi meal – butter tea, kahwa, thukpa, noodles and soup served in common dining room with Bukhari.

toilet

Ladakhi ‘Compost Toilet’ at Khaltse Village (Pic courtesy Rutwik)

frozen ladakh

Hot Water is a real luxury in Frozen Ladakh

Travel tip: Stay in a kitchen instead of a room for a warm cosy night.

2. GET TRANSPORTED INTO THE ICE AGE SETUP: 

Walking in the Bong Bong La Snow Valley was a setting straight out of ice age or a science fiction movie. Everything was frozen – mountains, valleys, waterfalls, river shores, and vegetation. With temperature plummeting to less than -35 degree and wind chill adding another -10 degree Celsius, it was nothing less than a dream. If you are suitably covered with at least four layers of warm clothing then there is no better sight than being in Frozen Ladakh. The Khaltse to Lamayru way is incredulously beautiful where you’ll come across moon land, frozen waterfalls and frozen Indus Shores.

DSC04632

Bong Bong La, Sham Valley Trek

lamayru

View of the the frozen village from Lamayru Gompa

Travel tip: Explore this area in a small group with a good local guide.

3. DO SOMERSAULT ON FROZEN LAKES: 

In summers, Mountain lakes of Ladakh act as a teaser of nature’s craftsmanship. The brackish water plays with sunlight to produce different shades of blue. In winters, almost all the water bodies freeze, yet the effect they create is unrivaled. The tranquil, azure blue waters of lake become a thick layer of ice sheet on which you can play cricket, drive your car or even do a somersault. The temperature is around -30 degrees Celsius even during the day and hence nobody spends more than half an hour there.

Tso Moriri or the Moon land. Changthang, Ladakh

Tso Moriri or the Moon land in Changthang, Ladakh

Pangong Tso Lake, Changthang. Picture Taken in end of Jan

Pangong Tso Lake in December

Travel tip: Start your day trip before 7 am and try to cross the Changla pass as soon as possible. Diesel freezes at that point, there is no network coverage and seeking help becomes a nightmare.

4. GET HIGH ON ADRENALINE RUSH:

Ladkh tests your mental and physical toughness in winters. Besides doing the world famous Chadar Trek, one can also do other fairly lesser known but more challenging treks like Stok base camp trek, Markha Valley Trek, Sham valley trek at a very cheap price like 10K. They are not at all monotonous and everyday presents a different kind of an experience. When in Leh, don’t forget to watch the Leh Ice Skating rink. From December until March, Ladakh lives and breathes ice hockey.

Bong Bong La - Trekking in -35 degree celsius

Bong Bong La – Trekking in -35 degree celsius

Trekking on a Frozen river is both exciting as well as challenging

Trekking on a Frozen river is both exciting as well as challenging

The frozen Tso Moriri, Changthang

Travel tip: Don’t take trekking in Ladakh casually, train hard, acclimatize well and stay away from heated rooms.

5. BECOME FRIENDS WITH LOCALS WHO HAVE FREE TIME ONLY IN WINTERS: 

Ladakh has very short but busy summers when most locals earn their yearly living from tourism. During summers, they are extremely busy making money out of tourists (not from travelers). Nobody has time to have laid back conversations. Winter is a time when they are looking for company to talk. Soft spoken and polite, a smile is there to greet you no matter which part of Ladakh you travel. Kids have school holidays therefore are always on the lookout of playmates. Also, you get to meet very interesting and diverse variety of like-minded fellow travelers (not tourists) from across the world that inspire you in more ways than you can ever imagine.

A Bhikkhuni, buddhist nun, at Hemis Monastery. Pic taken in end of Jan

Strike a conversation with a Bhikkhuni, buddhist nun at Hemis Monastery

In conversation with a Lama at Hemis Monastery, 45 kms from Leh. Picture taken in Feb

In the middle of a conversation with a Lama

My 66 years old host at Puga, Changthang steal dreams of returning to Tibet

Spend a night in the Rebo Tent of a Chang Pa (Pastoral nomads of Changthang)

Travel tip: Say Julley and strike a conversation with friendly strangers to peak into their local culture and make friends for life.

6. EXPERIENCE LADAKHI FESTIVALS & KNOW THE COOL QUOTIENT OF LAMAS:

Winter is a celebration time in Ladakh. Locals have very little to do during winter months, so free time is turned into celebration time. Tourists and wannabe photographers usually dominate summer festivals. Winter festivals are of different league. Ladakhi Losar, Spituk Gustor, Thiksay Gustor, Stok Monastery Festival, Matho Monastery festival, Dosmoche all fall in winters. Many senior lamas visit key monasteries during winters. Locals come from far away lands to have heart-to-heart conversations with their spiritual gurus.

Lamas at the Kitchen area of Hemis Monastery where free food is served to all. Picture taken in Feb

Lamas at Kitchen area of Hemis Monastery where free food is served to all

The Courtyard at Hemis Monastery, 45 kms from Leh. Pic taken in end of Jan

Travel tip: Have a meal with the lamas in a monastery. You’ll be blown away not just by the simplicity of the tasty food but also how tech savvy and worldly aware those monks are.

7. PHOTOGRAPHERS HEAVEN:

Winters is a great time for photography in Ladakh. With barren land completely covered with white sheet, frozen rivers, frozen waterfalls, frozen shores, wilted tress, blue skies, no tourists interfering in pictures, lots of local festivals, Ladakh is a heaven for photographers in winters. If you can brave cold at night then you can have star trail time-lapse videos that will make your peers go gaga over your photography skills.

Frozen Waterfall at Khalatse, Indus accompanies throughout the Leh-Lamayuru highway. Pic taken in end of Jan

Frozen Waterfall at Khalatse, Indus accompanies throughout the Leh-Lamayuru highway

Indus river

Marvel the frozen Indus

winters

Frozen Temisgam

View from Leh Palace

View from Leh Palace in winters

Landscape beauty of Ladakh in winters is unparalled

Landscape beauty of Ladakh in winters is unparalleled

Travel tip: With frequent power cuts and temperature getting below -20 degree c, batteries drain out too quickly therefore carry lot of spare batteries, 10000mAh power bank and keep them in your jackets or sleeping bags.

8. BEST TIME FOR RARE LADAKHI WILDLIFE SIGHTINGS:

As the harsh winters set in, most Himalayan animals tend to come down to lower altitudes, making it easier to spot them. Winters is the best time to spot the elusive “Ghost of the Mountains”, the Snow Leopard. While spotting a snow leopard is not easy, you will definitely spot lot of mountain fauna like Ibex, Blue sheep, mountain wolf, wild hares, magpies etc.

Black-billed Magpie of Ladakh, Changthang

Capture the flight of Black-billed Magpie

If you want to see the Double Hump Camel without troubling them visit the Farm at Chochot, Near Leh instead of Hunder Sand Dunes.

See the Double Hump Camel without harassing them at Chochot Farm, Near Leh

Travel Tip: Look out for the flora fauna map in outskirts

9. WALK AND SKATE ON THE FROZEN ZANSKAR – THE CHADAR TREK:

Though it was my bad that because a natural calamity, Chadar Trek was called off but it is a great experience that one should have before it becomes a distant memory. Once the road from chilling to Padum gets constructed, there are chances that Chadar might not form and hence Chadar Trek won’t happen. Hence, do it before it’s too late. I am going to attempt it next year again. Will you?

stok

The Frozen River Trek

Chumathang to Chumur, Changthang

Travel tip: Go via a local trek agent. Travel agents from plains have shallow knowledge and might dupe you.

10. REKINDLE ROMANCE IN GOD’S DEN:

There is nothing like romancing in the coldest region of India. A kiss under a sky full of billion stars or a hug at 18,000 ft above sea level or making love in bone-chilling cold is something that you will not forget till the last breath of your life. You won’t need a lip-balm or multiple layers of clothes when you would have your special one around. If you don’t have one, then you will surely find one. So make the most of it. Go ahead and rekindle your romance.

romance

Travel tip: Before expressing your love, make sure you are wrapped up in multiple layers otherwise be prepared to get a severe cold and cough.

Visiting Frozen Ladakh is like freezing time or existence itself. I discovered the undying spirit of Ladakh. I had relished every bit of the indescribable beauty of the coldest desert. No words or pictures can do justice to what I saw and experienced.

Still thinking to visit Ladakh in winters or sticking to a comfortable summer trip?

All I can say is – let go of the fear of cold and immerse in the insurmountable beauty of God’s favorite masterpiece.

Frozen Ladakh in Winters

Ladakh in Winters

A poem by Siddarth Dudheria on his experience of visiting Ladakh in Winters

Icy cold winds, dry sand

Tall peaks and low valleys

Trees bereft of leaves, standing tall and gaunt

Animals grazing on the barren land, thick hides to flaunt

Humans, young and old, all huddled near the flaming bukhari,

to earn some heat for the heart and for the body

 

Water knows no destination as it turns into ice, stays put

Kahwa and thukpa, the only food that counters the shiver

 

By foot is the only journey possible, for it unfurls nature’s harsh beauty,

the undulating sand dunes and the ever unassailable peaks

 

Such is Ladakh in Winters where only the best of friends or the worst of enemies dare appear,

Such is the warmth in winters that once you befriend the cold, everything else is present and clear.

If you too are planning to visit Ladakh in Winters, my experience of visiting Changthang would come handy for you. And, if you are still undecided these 10 reasons to visit Ladakh in Winters will definitely help you.

Still hungry for Ladakh? Read these:

Finding beauty amidst destruction in Baler

Damaged hanging bridge, Baler-2

Torrential rain and nonstop winds blowing at 202 km/hr
20 feet high tumultuous waves raising the Tsunami alarm
Bridges standing tall for decades came down in seconds
Toppled trees, ripped off rooftops, collapsed walls
Signboards and billboards gone with the wind
Severely damaged crops and plantations

This was the scene I saw when I landed in Baler, the Super Typhoon ‘Lando’ hit area, in October 2015. Philippines, the pearl of Oriental Seas, was once again hammered, whacked, bruised and tattered but it’s not the type that surrenders. And that is what makes it so unique. Filipinos are like the Phoenix, which rise from the ashes. They are strong and resilient people who never surrender to their adversary, even though they are regularly hit by natural disasters. They’ll rock a smile, even if their entire life’s hard work is gone in seconds. I was shocked to see their optimism and never-say-die attitude when I visited Baler just few days after a Grade 4 Super Typhoon hit Baler. In midst of destruction Baler was still beautiful and warm.

It took me a long time to pen down this story because I wasn’t sure how to describe beauty and beast in the same breath. Finally I have summoned courage. Here is my experience of visiting Baler during crisis hour – Super Typhoon. A time perfect for finding beauty amidst destruction. Confused? Do read below to find more:

DAY 1, FRIDAY NIGHT – Escaping Manila

Being just six hours away from Metro Manila I was enticed to visit the surfing capital of Philippines – BALER. So I booked myself for a weekend trip to Baler with a friend. Getting out of Manila is a nightmare, especially on a Friday night. It took me four hours to just get out of Manila. The van journey was neither bad nor good. A sleeper bus might have been a better deal.

I reached Baler early morning. I was supposed to camp on the Sabang beach but because of the Typhoon, camping wasn’t allowed. So I took shelter in a local’s house to perch my tent.

DAY 2, SATURDAY – Exploring the FUN-TASTIC Baler

  1. Diguisit Beach and Rock Formations

    Digisuit beach, baler

    My first pit stop was Diguisit Beach, which is 15 minutes tricycle ride away from the town centre. Giant waves were crashing into the rocks, forming an emerald green starfish like design flanked by dark chocolaty sand and rocks. Hopping from one rock to another, I was literally living on the edge. One slip could have given wings to my hospital dreams. But my local guide was around so I could afford to fool around. Thanks to last week’s Typhoon, the beach had transformed into a marshland, roofless Nipa huts were longingly looking for their saviour, tree branches and seaweed had encroached the beach area. I was dumbfounded with the “Good cop/bad cop” routine of the nature.

    Typhoon wrecked digisuit beach & rock formations

    Typhoon wrecked Digisuit Beach & Rock formations, Baler

  1. Dicasalarin Cove:

    Dicasalarian Cove Beach

    After wandering around the Diguisit Beach, I made way to the Dicasalarin cove, one of the best kept secrets of Baler. A stunning white sand beach bordered by rock formations on both sides. To get a panoramic view from a vantage point, I climbed up to the lighthouse. The lighthouse wasn’t far off but the steep mountain ascent with 1050 watts /m2 sunlight bulb made it harder. It took me a while to get to the lighthouse. But my tiredness vanished as soon as I reached the summit and looked around. The Pacific was looking majestic with the Aniao Islets in the backdrop. The Aniao Islets are huge rock formations that look like twin islands in the sea.

    On the way to the lighthouse

    On the way to the lighthouse

    Panoramic view of the Pacific from the Lighthouse

    Panoramic view of the Pacific from the Lighthouse (please look in full screen)

  1. Ermita Hill:

    Hill top of Ermita hill, Baler

    When everything fails, God makes its presence felt. Ermita hill is a testament of that fact. Baler has been God’s favourite child. He loves to dismantle Baler every now and then. On December 27, 1735, a great Tsunami had swept away Baler. At that time, people had taken refuge at Ermita Hill. That incidence had carved Ermeta Hill’s place in history books forever. After climbing the 250+ steps hike under shady trees I reached the top of the hill. The view wasn’t as great as at the start of the stairs. I was drinking in the magnificent view of the bay below, including the Baler fish port from the Baler view deck at the hill. There were hardly any tourists at that time. I spoke to a group of locals about the recent typhoon. They said, “Natural disasters are a part of our life. You really can’t control them. But you can control how you respond to them. Whining about them will not do any good. Best is to move on with a smile.” Isn’t that gem of an advice?

    Baler View Deck, Ermita Hill, Baler

    Baler View Deck, Ermita Hill, Baler

  1. Sabang Beach:

    Sun playing hide and seek, Sabang Beach, Baler

    After a sleepless night and a busy sightseeing day I wanted to relax a bit so I retreated to my hole. There was no electricity since all the Electricity poles were uprooted in Baler. And no internet. I was happy to be in nature’s lap without any distractions. A tented accommodation in a lush green garden with coconut trees was my abode tonight. Gulping the freshly plucked coconut water I indulged in a small talk with the caretakers of the property. I did not want to miss the Golden Hour so I headed to the beach. The entire beach was covered in the golden paint. Kids and their pets were enjoying their play time. Couples were walking hand in hand. It was hard to believe the waves which looked so calm at that moment were 20 feet high just few days back. But that’s how unpredictable nature can be.

    Sabang Beach sunset , Baler

    Sabang Beach sunset , Baler

    Baler is not Baler without the swells and breaks of Sabang Bay. Surfing is the main reason why tourists flock to the town. I was already too tired so I did not try my hand at surfing. Instead I walked capturing the sights and sounds of Baler. Besides glorious sunrise and sunsets Baler is famous for its nightlife and astounding variety of food. Being a vegetarian I opted for a safe option – Costa Pacifica, a high end Beach resort. The food was yummy but the best part was the fire dance performance.

    Sabang Beach Bay area

    Sabang Bay as seen from Costa Pacifico Resort, Baler

    Fire dance, Costa Pacifica, Baler

    Fire dancing at Costa Pacifica Beach Resort, Baler

    Fire dancer, Costa Pacifica, Baler

    Fire dancing at Costa Pacifica Beach Resort, Baler

DAY 3, SUNDAY – Adventure and History packed Day

  1. Surfing @ Sabang:
    Before sunrise, Sabang Beach, Baler

    Mist surrounded scene before the sunrise, Baler

    The day started with me sacrificing my sleep to witness the sunrise. And trust me when I say sacrificing my sleep I truly mean it. It’s the most difficult thing for me to do. But the pacific sunrise was totally worth it. So after spending some time at the beach relishing the morning mist and observing the young surfers taming the waves I was ready to explore the historical side of the town.

    Me trying to capture the surfers, Sabang Beach, Baler

    Newbies busy in taking the surfing lessons from instructors, Sabang Beach, Baler

  1. Historical Walk:

    The house of the first lady of Philippines-2

    I don’t want to contaminate my travel experience with preconceived notions therefore I usually take impromptu trips without asking Google. This time was no different. With the help of locals I ended up taking the Historical Walk of Baler through San Luis Obispo Church, the Baler Park, the house of Doña Aurora, the wife of former president Manuel L. Quezon, and the Museo de Baler. Literally there were footstep-shaped markers on the street to find your way from one place to the other. A walk in the downtown was like a walk in a museum and gave a good crash course into Baler’s history and the lifestyle of the former President of Philippines.

    Baler Museo-2

    Baler Museum

  1. Hanging Bridge:

    Damaged hanging bridge, Baler-2
    I had been to lot of hanging bridges earlier so this wasn’t something unique to me. However, what I liked about it was that it wasn’t for tourists. This rickety bridge patched together from rusty wire, weathered planks of wood and fragile bamboo railings is used by locals. On both sides of the river lay decapitated Nipa plants. Nipa plants are used to make Nipa huts. I failed miserably in learning the art of weaving the Nipa leaves. But it’s better to fail then give up.

    Nipa Hut making technique, Baler

    Trying to learn the Nipa Hut making technique, Baler

  1. The Millennium Tree:Millenium Tree

    The last pit stop on my weekend wanderlust was the “Millennium Tree”. Popularly referred as the Balete tree (relative of Banyan tree) it  is said to be 600-years old and considered to be the largest Balete tree in Asia. I channelised the ‘Mogli’ inside me to climb up and down, walk inside and outside through the hollow openings and massive roots of the tree. Like Banyan Tree in India, Balete Tree is infamous for jaadu-tona (witchcraft) in Philippines. Superstitions are a common currency across the world that feeds on people’s fear of the unknown.

So this was my experience of visiting Baler at the wrong time – Super Typhoon time. A time perfect for finding beauty amidst destruction.

Are you up for the challenge? Will you do the same or wait for the right moment?
Me at Baler Downtown-2

SOME TRAVEL TIPS FOR YOU:

  1. How to go: Every week there are 2D1N weekend trip vans going from Manila. Usually they charge around P2.2-2.8K for your food, travel and stay. You can opt for them or take the Genesis Transport Bus from Cubao bus terminal. Leaves at midnight and arrives at 7am at Baler
  2. Where to stay: There are ample stay options at Baler. You can perch your tent for few hundreds or stay at a fancy hotel like Costa Pacifica starting at P5.5k per night.
  3. What to do: You can go surfing, trekking, cycling, motor biking, scuba diving, food tripping, sightseeing and island hoping
  4. Passes: You need to secure a Dicasalarin Cove guest pass from Bahia De Baler. It costs P300 per person but if you’re an in-house guest or checked-in in any of their hotels, they charge only P100 per person for the gate pass.
  5. Surfing cost: P350 per hour with surfing lesson and P200 for renting the board for an hour, P400 for half day and P800 for the whole day

PICTURE GALLERY

rock formations, baler

Rock formations, Baler

The Golden Hour, Sabang Beach

Dusk at Costa Pacifica, Baler

The Famous Baler Food Grill at Sabang Beach, Baler

The Famous Baler Food Grill, Sabang Beach, Baler

Inside the house of former first lady, Baler

Inside the house of the former first lady of Philippines, Baler

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