Journey Through East Greenland’s Sermilik Fjords: A Once-in-a-Lifetime Adventure

Discover the breathtaking beauty of East Greenland and Sermilik Fjords, where enormous icebergs, stunning landscapes, and towering glaciers create an awe-inspiring natural wonder. Don’t miss the chance to explore these steep-sided fjords that promise unforgettable adventures.

I must have been in school when I first saw pictures of Greenland’s towering icebergs and glaciers. Ever since then, it has become a bucket list destination for me to visit. Finally, Greenland became a reality this year – as a jump-off point for my Artic To Antarctica Expedition. So, when I got an invitation from Polar Quest to join them on this EPIC journey to one of the last remaining truly unexplored places on Earth, I jumped at the opportunity.  But Before I share details about my 7-day adventure in Greenland, let me start by briefly introducing this Arctic nation.

Where is Greenland? And, what makes it unique to visit?

Greenland, the world’s largest island, sits between the Arctic and Atlantic Oceans, geographically closer to North America but politically tied to Denmark. Roughly equivalent to Western Europe or about one-third the size of the US or Australia, it should come as no surprise that its landscapes and ecosystems vary significantly. When I first set foot in East Greenland, it felt like stepping into another world—one defined by towering icebergs, sweeping glaciers, and a vast, quiet wilderness.

What made Greenland stand out for me was its sheer remoteness. It wasn’t just the dramatic landscapes that made me freeze in awe, but the feeling of isolation, where nature reigns supreme and modern life feels a million miles away. From witnessing the Northern Lights dance over the Sermilik Fjord to learning about the rich traditions of the Inuit people, Greenland offered an experience that was both raw and deeply humbling.

In this Greenland Travelogue, I’ll chronicle my journey through East Greenland and Sermilik Fjords with Polar Quest, highlighting my daily itinerary and observations. Don’t forget to read my detailed Greenland Travel Guide to plan your trip to Greenland.

My 10-Day Greenland Travel Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival in Iceland (September 3, 2024)

After an extensive journey of 7,574 kilometres, which included three flights totalling 27 hours, I finally arrived in Reykjavík, Iceland’s capital, at 10:40 am. The airport check-in was impressively fast. Exiting the airport, I found the Flybus kiosk, where a helpful attendant provided me with information on getting to the city. I purchased a return ticket to the City Centre for 56 euros and boarded the bus. After reaching the Flybus station, I transferred to another bus that took me close to my hotel. Arriving two hours before the official check-in time, I was relieved when the receptionist kindly permitted me an early check-in. Feeling the effects of sleep deprivation and jet lag, I spent the rest of the day relaxing and recharging for the adventures that awaited me.

Day 2: Arrival in Eastern Greenland (September 4, 2024)

The next day, after breakfast, I had free time until 1:15 pm, so I quickly visited the famous Hallgrímskirkja, which was just 10 minutes from my hotel. Along with nine co-travellers, I left for the Keflavik Airport at around 1:30 PM, having enough time to check in comfortably, have a quick lunch and do some duty-free shopping. After a half-hour delay, we boarded our flight to Kulusuk. Due to Greenland’s abundance of fjords and rugged peaks, there isn’t sufficient flat terrain to accommodate large runways. As a result, the planes operating here are specialised and smaller in size. For this route, Iceland Air employs a De Havilland Canada DHC-8-200, commonly known as the ‘Dash 8,’ which has a seating capacity of 37 passengers, features additional fuel tanks for extended range, and is capable of taking off fully loaded from runways as brief as 800 meters (approximately 2,625 feet). Additionally, it is designed to endure stronger crosswinds.

As we started descending, I couldn’t peel my eyes off the window. No cities or motorways were visible, and there were no obvious signs of a metropolis that you would find if you flew towards any big city. Instead, I started seeing Icebergs the size of high-rise buildings, and the sunset painted the horizon in shades of red, orange and ember, making the whole landscape a treat for my eyes. At 7:30 p.m., our plane landed at the Kulusuk Airport, one of the smallest international airports in the world with only a gravel landing strip. There was no conveyor belt and no long immigration lines. In the arrival-departure hall, we were welcomed by our travel guides, Ida Olsson and Ryan Hope-Inglis. This highly knowledgeable couple has been guiding in the Arctic and Antarctica for the past ten years. Ida even participated in the illustrious Women’s Euro-Arabian North Pole Expedition 2018, and in 2019, she led a group of women across Spitsbergen.

After exchanging initial greetings, we set off on a 3-kilometre trek to Kulusuk, where our zodiac awaited to take us to the cruise ship—the golden hour transformed the sky into a canvas of orange, red, and amber, enhancing the beauty of the craggy peaks, the vibrant red and blue houses, and the ocean alongside us. As we neared the zodiac in Kulusuk village, we were welcomed by the heart-melting chorus of howling Greenlandic dogs.

We were given safety jackets and, for the first time, I learned the sailor’s technique for boarding a boat using a forearm grip instead of a palm hold. Our expedition ship was a beautifully crafted classic vessel that combined timeless charm with modern amenities. Inside, it embraced the warm simplicity of Scandinavian design, creating an inviting and stylish atmosphere. The ship featured excellent communal areas, including an upper deck observation area and a stylish restaurant below, both boasting panoramic windows. Additionally, there was a jacuzzi and sauna on board. My ensuite cabin featured contemporary amenities, such as a table, chair, cosy bed, cupboard, window, and heated flooring in the bathroom, all contributing to a more comfortable experience.

After quickly freshening up, the group gathered for dinner at 8:30 pm. Chef Alan had prepared a delicious three-course dinner and a glass of champagne to welcome us onboard. The menu featured a delicious vegetable soup, mashed potatoes, green beans, and chickpea potato curry, culminating in a delightful strawberry pastry for dessert. A comprehensive briefing at 9:30 pm preceded a well-deserved rest. The curtains were drawn on the day by a colourful sunset.

Day 3: Exploring Kaporniagkat Kangertivat Fjord and Umittuartiit (September 5, 2024)

Around 6 am, we set sail for Kaporniagkat Kangertivat Fjord in the morning, renowned for its breathtaking glaciers and icebergs. Captain Kim demonstrated remarkable navigation skills as he adeptly manoeuvred through a narrow, frozen path reminiscent of an Ice Age landscape. As I stood captivated by the stunning icy fjord, a powerful realisation struck me for the first time: reality can be even more breathtaking than the most vivid dreams. But this was just the beginning; the best was yet to come. After breakfast, around 9 am, we boarded our Zodiac to land at Kaporniagkat Kangertivat Fjord.

It was quite surreal to meander through giant icebergs and ancient mountains, estimated to have stood here for at least 2.8 billion years. To put it in perspective, humans have been around for approximately 300,000 years, which is only 0.007% of the planet’s 4.5 billion-year history.

We spent some time hiking through mossy marshland, gazing at nature’s masterpieces –  a glacier glimmered in the golden glow of the sun. Its melting water created a small waterfall and a stream that gently tumbled into the ocean. Having appreciated the splendour of nature, we were ready to head back to our Zodiac, but the tide had shifted to a low level, requiring us to exert all our combined effort to launch our Zodiac into the sea. It evolved into a true expedition characterized by teamwork. We reached our expedition ship just in time for lunch at 1 pm. The lunch consisted of a satisfying three-course meal.

After a brief rest in the afternoon, we visited Umittuartiit, a traditional Inuit settlement and shelter bay. We discovered remains and graves of Inuit, with panoramic views of the bay area. Various mosses and some sparsely growing flowers, including vibrant purple bell flowers, dotted the landscape. Ryan provided insightful explanations about the topography of the rocks and ancient Thule and Norse ruins nearby.

After dinner, Ida and Ryan briefed us about the program for the next day.

Day 4: Sermilik Fjords, Apuseerajik Glacier, and Tiniteqilaaq (September 6, 2024)

The day began with a spectacular view of the mighty glacier front, surrounded by icebergs of all sizes gently floating by that looked more like floating sculptures. Our captain informed us that we had ventured into the colossal Sermilik Fjords and were witnessing the majesty of towering icebergs and untouched landscapes as we sailed through steep-sided fjords.

After breakfast, we hurried up to avoid being late for our date with the ancient legend of the Apuseerajik Glacier, estimated at least 50,000 years old. Navigating icebergs in our zodiac like a seal, we came face to face with the Giant Glacier. The grey skies had started gently showering on us, but that didn’t stop us from exploring the surrounding icebergs. Each iceberg was a piece of art crafted by nature. Ida explained to us the logic behind different colours of icebergs. She said,

Only 10% area of an iceberg is visible above the water surface, and their colour – white, blue or green – depends on the air bubbles they have inside them. Blue icebergs contain very few air bubbles, while white icebergs have many. Dark stripes on icebergs come from dirt that glaciers pick up as they move from land to sea.

In the afternoon, we sailed approximately 40-50 kilometres south to Tiniteqilaaq. Earlier, with a population of 200, it had shrunk to below 93 today. This tiny village with bright red and blue houses and a stunning view faces significant challenges. Ida shared valuable insights into the village’s history and struggles:

People move to Tasiilaq for better work opportunities and living conditions. There is only one department store, one primary school for 12 children in the village and no doctor. The doctor only visits for a few days in the summer. For anything serious, people are forced to go to Tasiilaq or Nuuk (the capital of Greenland).

After the village tour, we went to the harbour to catch our zodiac. As we waited, I noticed freshly hunted seals were stored in ocean water, as cold water is a natural refrigerator. En route, I saw dozens of small Greendanic puppies left alone on an island. Ryan explained,

It is an important practice for training them as working dogs, building the muscle for transportation and racing. They don’t like water, so they’d not jump into the ocean and in 2-5 days, their owner will visit them to feed them.

Another interesting fact about Greenland dogs is that they don’t bark but do howl. They are a pure breed closer to foxes than other dog breeds like Labrador or Chihuahua that were bred to become pets. Being a dog lover, I felt a little sad for Greenland Dogs, who are either working or kept chained. I wish I could bring them all home and pamper them like I do mine. But I shouldn’t judge them as they have different life situations and cultures than mine.

The day was wrapped up with another delicious meal and Ida’s engaging presentation on glaciers. Being still jetlagged, I called it a night at 9:30 p.m., only to be awakened at 10:30 p.m. by excited Emily as the crew spotted the Northern lights. They were pretty feeble and pinkish in the shade initially, as there was still light in the sky, but as the night matured, so did the ballet of Aurora Borealis. Hypnotised by their celestial dance, I kept chasing them until 2 am. After several failed attempts in the past (Finland, Sweden, and Norway), I had finally broken the jinx. My happiness knew no boundaries.

Read More: Chasing the Northern Lights: Your Ultimate Guide to Aurora Adventures in 2024-25

Day 5: Ikaasattivaq, Bluie East Two, and Aliasitoq (September 8, 2024)

Contrary to what I had seen so far in Greenland, the next day was a big surprise. We visited Ikaasattivaq, which means “the place with many remains” in Greenlandic.

At 10:20 a.m., we landed on an abandoned American Airbase with a 5000-square-foot runway, exploring remnants of the Bluie East Two military base, which played a crucial role in World War II and was operational from 1942 to 1947. Visiting this historic site felt like entering a backdrop for a Hollywood thriller, but then I realised it was a real place. Travelling through this area of rusty air barrels, decaying airfields, and lots of scrap metal, I grappled with why such a fragile place has been left with such a vast stock of metal trash. Shouldn’t the USA have cleaned their mess before abandoning ‘Ikateq’?

With difficult questions hovering in my mind, I returned to the comfort of my makeshift home—a piping hot lunch consisting of egg soup, fried rice, grilled veggies, and pita pockets awaited me.

Post lunch, we sailed for 2-3 hours, covering 30-45 kilometres, to Aliasitoq (Pikkefjeld). High tide and strong winds greeted us on the island. Ida and Ryan introduced us to a local hunting hut, which was surprisingly in perfect condition, with intricate drawings, a Jesus photo, and wooden beds. Ida told us that one needed to be a part of a hunting/fishing community to stay there. Outside, we found 1000-year-old Inuit remains. Ryan explained the Inuits’ clever use of narrow openings to keep cold winds out. A hike up the hill revealed breathtaking views of the fjord.

As we trekked up the hill to a breathtaking vantage point, we encountered massive boulders adorned with vibrant red, green, and black lichen. The fjord to our right glistened with mesmerising blue waters under the perfect weather – a blend of sunshine and a gentle, invigorating breeze. Our surroundings were alive with the calls of White-fronted Geese, Guillemots, and Great Northern Divers while a majestic sailboat graced the fjord.

Both sites boasted azure waters, unobstructed skies, and rugged fjords, evidence of mountains untouched by glacial forces. The snow-dusted peaks added to the majestic landscape.

As the clock struck 5 p.m., we made our way back to our expedition ship, eager for the next leg of our adventure. The ship set sail toward Kaarali Glacier, a breathtaking spectacle boasting not one, not two, but five glaciers in one panoramic view. Our captain, with a glint of excitement in his eyes, shared that reaching this far was a remarkable achievement, often hindered by unpredictable weather. It was a historic milestone for our cruise, marking an unprecedented journey into the heart of natural wonder.

Karali Gletscher, also known as Karale Glacier, is located right next to Knud Rasmussen glacier, close to Sermiligaaq.  Nestled among rugged terrains, this sprawling ice mass unfurls like a vast white tapestry, weaving a tale of nature’s timelessness and power. As with many of East Greenland’s glaciers, Karali Glacier is a dynamic entity, constantly shifting, expanding, and retreating in response to the region’s intricate climatic dance.

East Greenland, a land of untamed beauty, is home to some of the Arctic’s most extraordinary and expansive glaciers. These colossal ice formations stand as timeless storytellers, offering us a glimpse into the Earth’s climatic history. Carved over millennia, these majestic rivers of ice persistently shape the rugged terrain, a testament to the relentless forces of nature.

Like every day, a presentation preceded dinner before goodnight sleep. Ryan shared his love and knowledge of geology and rocks.

Day 6: Kaarali Gletscher and Glacier Hike (September 9, 2024)

The next morning brought a big surprise—the Fjord where we were docked had turned into a dynamic landscape, with hundreds of icebergs in complex shapes and sizes floating around us.

Glacier calving from the Karali Gletscher created this white spectacle early in the morning. Surprisingly, I didn’t hear anything which speaks volumes about the soundproofing in the cabins.

Around 9 a.m., we started hiking to the glacier’s start point, navigating slippery, fine gravel. We stayed there for a while before descending to the beach, where the glacier was almost touching the Fjord. Mesmerised by its ethereal beauty, I walked inside the glacier ice. The sheer scale and beauty of the glacier left an indelible mark on my mind.

Following our exhilarating glacier hike, we made a seamless transition to a captivating 5km tundra trek in the picturesque Nuuaartik Valley during the afternoon. Traversing a sprawling sandy beach, we embraced the challenge of finding our balance atop colossal moss mounds. Unlike any other destination on our journey, this valley embraced an unrivalled verdant expanse reminiscent of the tundra. Delicate streams of glacial melt meandered through the landscape, nourishing vibrant crowberries and late-blooming blueberries. A stunning array of lichen, boasting hues of red, purple, green, and black, adorned the surroundings. Encircled by imposing granite peaks, the valley was perpetually bathed in the flow of glacial waters, nurturing the lush moss and giving rise to an enchanting alpine lake.

Day 7: Qernertivartiit, Sangmileq, and Polar Plunge (September 10, 2024)

The day began with an exhilarating surprise—the sighting of fin whales in Arctic waters. These majestic creatures, with their distinctive fins and remarkable agility, captured our attention as they gracefully glided through the ocean, disappearing and reappearing in the distance.

After this breathtaking encounter, we set foot on Qernertivartiit island, affectionately nicknamed Q-Town by Ida. Once a vibrant village, it now lay abandoned, its dilapidated houses holding remnants of a bygone era. As we explored the deserted dwellings, we were struck by the poignant traces of the families who had once called this place home. An altar for Jesus, abandoned furniture, and a poignant photograph depicting the village in its heyday all spoke of the lives that had been lived here.

Our journey continued with an afternoon hike at Sangmileq, leading us to a mesmerizing multi-tier waterfall area. The symphony of rushing water and wind surrounded us as we paused to take in the breath-taking sight. The vibrant green hue of the water, a result of glacial sediments, painted a surreal scene unlike anything I had witnessed before.

As the day drew its curtains, we embraced the daring challenge of a polar plunge. Following a brief 10-minute sauna session, we braved the icy waters of the Arctic, feeling an exhilarating rush like no other. The contrast of extreme temperatures was both invigorating and unforgettable. The day ended with a celebratory vodka shot to mark the unique experience. Additionally, we had another surprise waiting for us – a BBQ during the golden hour with a drink of our choice. It was a delightful experience for everyone, and the day couldn’t have ended on a better note.

Each moment of our day in Greenland unfolded as a captivating chapter in a visual odyssey, leaving an indelible impression of this extraordinary land’s raw beauty and untamed spirit.

Day 8: Tasiilaq and Flower Valley (September 11, 2024)

On the second-to-last day of our trip, we started early at 8 AM for breakfast before embarking on our final hike of the expedition in the enchanting Flower Valley (Naasuliardarpi) of Tasiilaq. While there were not many flowers, we did see a variety of arctic flora, picturesque lakes and a waterfall. Along the way, we strolled through a charming village and passed through a quaint cemetery. It was a delightful walk under the warm sun.

That afternoon, we enjoyed an early lunch in preparation for our 1 PM guided tour with a local named Rasmus in Tasiilaq village. After a quick bite, we visited the historic Tasiilaq Church, built in 1906, which has since been converted into a museum. Rasmus shared fascinating insights into the town’s history, culture, and traditions, highlighting the challenges of life in Greenland and the significance of the Greenlandic dog. The museum beautifully showcased the local Inuit culture, providing us with a deeper understanding of the town’s isolation and its unique logistical challenges.

Rasmus also discussed the town’s industries and the meaning behind the vibrant colours of the houses in Greenland. He touched on the topic of education and the phenomenon of “brain drain” in East Greenland. One of the most heartwarming moments came when we met his 19 sled dogs, ranging from just one month to several years old. As soon as they heard Rasmus approaching, they began howling for his attention.

Towards the end of our visit, we were treated to a surprise: a traditional Inuit performance featuring deep-throat singing and the playing of the traditional Inuit drum.

Day 9: Apusiaajik Glacier Cave Tour and Departure (September 12, 2024)

On the morning of my Apusiaajik Glacier Cave tour, I had an early check-out, ready for the adventure ahead. The day began with a thrilling speedboat ride from Tasiilaq to the Apusiaajik Glacier, one of East Greenland’s enchanting wonders. The name “Apusiaajik” fittingly means “small glacier,” though witnessing it up close, it felt anything but small.

Once we arrived, I strapped on crampons and followed our guide, Peter, up a slippery gravel path, using a rope to steady myself as we navigated the rugged terrain. At one point, we crossed a spot where a massive boulder was precariously perched. Here, Peter shared expert insights about the glacier’s dynamics and the impact of climate change. He pointed out a massive boulder, around 20 feet tall, that was buried under snow a year ago but is now entirely free of snow—a striking indication of the effects of climate change in this isolated area. He highlighted the alarming rate of glacier retreat, with Apusiaajik Glacier losing approximately 30% of its area since the 1990s.

As I entered the glacier cave, I felt like a child in a candy store. There was too much beauty around me, and I didn’t know where to look. The cave stretched endlessly in shades of deep and dramatic glacial blue, with water dripping from above, creating a mesmerizing sound that echoed through the space. A glacier stream flowed gently inside, and the light filtering from the top gave the whole place a heavenly glow. It was a powerful, almost otherworldly experience that left me in awe of nature’s fragile beauty. After spending a few hours inside the cave, we returned to the base of the glacier and took a five-minute break to silently gaze at Nature’s last remaining relics from the previous Ice Age that coming generations may not see in the next hundred years.

After a moment of retrospection, we enjoyed a picnic lunch prepared by Peter himself. Following the tour, we returned to Kulusuk and spent the afternoon exploring the village. At 6:51 p.m., we departed for Reykjavik, Iceland, reflecting on our unforgettable journey.

Day 10: The East Greenland and Sermilik Fjords trip ends in Iceland

Late at night, we made our way back to Reykjavik. The following day, the majority of the group members went home to their respective countries, while I remained behind for an additional seven nights to relish the stunning landscape of the land of Fire and Ice – Iceland. Stay tuned for my account of my experiences in Iceland in the upcoming post.

Final Thoughts

Exploring the stunning landscapes of East Greenland and Sermilik Fjords was undoubtedly one of the best experiences of my life. The gigantic icebergs and dramatic fjords gave me my best memories. Yet, as I stood before the receding ice, I felt a deep sense of loss. The visible effects of climate change were unmistakable, not only threatening these majestic formations but also impacting the local Inuit communities that depend on them.

This journey reminded me of our profound connection to nature and the urgent need to protect it. Leaving East Greenland and Sermilik Fjords, I carried with me a renewed sense of responsibility. We must all act to safeguard these incredible places, ensuring that future generations can witness their beauty and understand their significance. Our planet’s wonders are at stake, and it’s up to us to preserve them.

Disclaimer

I visited East Greenland and Sermilik Fjords thanks to an invitation from Polar Quest. My insights come from personal experiences and conversations during my trip. All images included are my own. Please do not copy or use them without written permission from Travel See Write.

Further Reading

Ready to embark on an unforgettable adventure to Greenland, Iceland, Finland, Sweden, the Arctic, or Antarctica? Whether you’re planning your own journey or eager to follow my #ArcticToAntarctica experience, check out these engaging blog posts:

Polar Connections: A Journey from the Arctic to Antarctica

Chasing the Northern Lights: Your Ultimate Guide to Aurora Adventures in 2024-25

Is Qatar Airways’ 40-minute Layover enough?

An Epic 10-day Iceland Roadtrip through spectacular landscapes

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