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The 4X4 SUV was cruising at breakneck speed on the Delhi-Agra highway. My smartphone battery was still at 70% even after three days of use. I was relishing the sights and sounds of the fascinating Rajasthan. But all this happened because of my digital detoxification drive. Without thinking much I packed my bags and left for an impromptu road-trip. Rajasthan, the land of Maharajas, where you see the colourful melange of massive forts, stunning palaces, delectable cuisines and royal hospitality was my companion in my quest to travel, see and write about unique experiences. The trip turned out to be gold for my wanderlust. I had the luxury to be with the Maharaja of the Jungle for hours in Ranthambore. The Chand Baori at Abhaneri village left me awestruck with its architectural wonder. But there was more to the trip than only the above two.
I was flipping through the pages of history in my mind when I noticed my friend had taken a left on the East of Jaipur-Agra highway. Did he forget his way? But how could a local forget his own backyard?
What I didn’t know was that my friend had secretly planned a Royal Holiday for me. Bewildered but in awe, we passed through the crowded narrow lanes of Kanota, crossing the impregnable castle gate to finally park at the edge of a perfectly manicured lawn. As soon as I got down, the manager of the Castle greeted me with Khamaghani and a big smile. This was the beginning of the conversation that led to some startling discoveries on how travel and tourism saved Rajasthan and the Royals. So come on board to unravel the mystery.
The second entrance gate of the 9 acre Castle Kanota built in 1872
Luxury is always subtle and timeless. Castle Kanota, built in 1872, is a testament of this fact. On the left side, stood the Haveli where the current scion of Kanota, Thakur Man Singh, stays with his family. On the right side, lay the family temple and the museum. In between, there were the sprawling lawns where peacocks, roosters, geese, hens, and dogs were having a gala time. Camels, horses, and ponies were waiting to be ridden. I was checked into an elegant suite next to the Durbar Hall. It was spacious and tastefully designed, devoid of modern-day distractions like TV or phone. The walls of the room were painted with delicate frescoes. The room was palatial and royal. The period furniture across the property gave it a unique character.
The Haveli – current residence of the Royal Family of Kanota Thikana
Courtyard of Castle Kanota, Rajasthan
The Family Temple of the Royal Family of Kanota
Servant rooms converted into garden facing suites at Castle Kanota, Rajasthan
Antique Furniture can be seen in abundance at Castle Kanota
Being a believer of, “pahle pet puja phir kaam duja” I gave priority to lunch over other things. Food didn’t disappoint for two reasons – firstly in Rajasthan, it’s impossible to find a bad meal and secondly, I was the guest of the Royal Family of Kanota, which is world famous for its hospitality and passion for cooking. In fact, Thakur Man Singh is an accomplished cook himself. The service was a bit slow but the food was fingerliciously tasty. Everything was freshly cooked with distinct aromas and a striking presentation. Nothing precooked, everything made to order.
After a hearty lunch, I decided to explore the Castle. The Manager of the property was more than happy to be my guide. I started with the majestic Durbar Hall, which was the setting of the Viceroy Club in the Hollywood flick The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel. It was the grandest room in the castle, decked with portraits, antique furniture, priceless artifacts, books collected over generations and a huge hand-swung pankah.
Inside the Durbar Hall at Castle Kanota, Rajasthan
Outside the Durbar Hall, Castle Kanota, Rajasthan
The earthy lighting was creating a romantic atmosphere. A thought crossed my mind. Could my great grandparents imagine that one day the Royals of Rajasthan would serve their grandchildren? Probably not. Unfortunately, they were not born in the era of globalization.
Next, I moved to the Castle Library known as Pothi Khana. It had gold work, a unique collection of over 10,000 rare books, manuscripts, miniatures, 16th-century armory and a museum that chronicled the life and times of the most famous scion of Kanota, Maj-General Amar Singh. He served in both the British and Indian Armies. He was a multi-talented man – a brave soldier, an adept administrator, a renowned chef and a sturdy sportsman.
But he is most acclaimed for his diary. A diary which he wrote for 44 years from 1898 to 1942, without missing a single day, except for one day when he met with an accident and was not in a condition to write. His diary running into 89 volumes with 800 pages per volume is claimed to be the longest diary ever written by somebody. It is a prized possession, which provides an insight into the lives of the Royal Families of Rajasthan.
Thakur Amar Singh Museum at Castle Kanota, Rajasthan
I read a few pages from his diary to know what kind of a person he was. He seemed to be an intellectual and quite different from other Royals. Unlike others, he was neither a philander nor polygamous. He was only married to Thakurani Rasal Kanwar. He believed in intellectual development and therefore forced his wife to study and explore things beyond chaar diwari. Things he used are still intact in his museum, where he often spent nights writing his diary. He was the man of 21st Century who paved the way for future generations. The benefits of his foresightedness can be seen in the thriving hospitality business of the Kanotas.
Thakur Amar Singh Museum where he used to write his Diary
They say walls have ears and shoes have tongues. The ears and tongues for me were the housekeepers. So here’s behind the scene story from the horse’s mouth.
Thakur Man Singh has two kids – daughter Padmini Singh married to Karni Singh of Amarkot in Pakistan and son Pratap Singh, a professional golf player. The royal family owns three heritage properties – Castle Kanota at Kanota village (25 staff), Narayan Nivas at Jaipur (250 staff) and Raj Mahal at Tonk.
These properties provide an unforgettable experience of the princely Rajput and Rajasthani culture. But luxury comes with a huge price tag. I was intrigued to know how these white elephants are maintained in an era where even maintaining a 2BHK is difficult. So here is the secret. The old money earns the new money. Man Singh owns 200 commercial shops in Jaipur, 250 in Kanota and hundreds of commercial and residential properties in other parts of Rajasthan. All these properties are prime properties and fetch millions in rent per month. But that’s not his main source of income. His main source of income comes from his Heritage Hotels.
The picture wasn’t as rosy at it looks now. Necessity is the mother of invention. In the 1990’s, foreign tourists got smitten by the exotic Rajasthan. The tourists were craving for the legendary Rajputana hospitality but the government-run hotels were only offering “red-tape facilities”. There was a huge expectation mismatch. Then the Eureka moment happened to the Tourism Ministry of India. The idea of “heritage hotel” scheme was born. Under it, the owners of old forts, palaces, castles, aristocratic homes, and havelis were encouraged to renovate and convert them into heritage hotels. This was a win-win situation. The Government of India found a new way to earn dollars and the financially constrained Royals got a new lease of life. Suddenly, the erstwhile Royals transformed into hoteliers. Traditional graciousness got transformed into paid-for hospitality.
The scheme not only revived the heritage properties but the entire economy of Rajasthan. Many employment avenues were created. Local art and craft flourished. Folk dances, music, and handicrafts saw a revival. The commercial success of heritage hotels gave their Royal owners greater financial security.
After heritage properties, heritage food is now the carrot to attract tourists to Rajasthan. Thakurs are now digging up ancient royal recipes to serve their guests. The Kanota Royal Family uses their ancestral recipes to sell special royal thallies (set meals) and heritage drinks like Chandrahas at their heritage hotels Narain Niwas and Castle Kanota.
This was the story of how Tourism saved the Royalty of Rajasthan.
So are you inspired enough to experience the Royalty at Castle Kanota? Do check out Rajasthan tour packages for more details.
I had barely settled in Manila when a friend threw an invitation to visit Hanoi. Just the kind of words I wanted to hear. Hanoi had been on my list forever but it was going to become real soon. But God had other plans. My visa got stuck and I could not travel with my friend. I had to take a rain-check, only to return to my promise 5 months later.
After 5 months the day finally arrived when I was in Hanoi. I landed in the wee hours when the entire city was sleeping except for the Quang Ba Flower Market. It was an explosion of colours, fragrances, and beauty. Flowers of every type being sold from stalls, two-wheelers, and hawkers. Quang Ba Flower market gave me a glimpse into how important flowers are in people’s daily life here. Visiting this market was quite an experience. I was told by my driver that the best time to visit this market is during Tết or Vietnamese New Year, which is celebrated on the same day as Chinese New Year.
The next 5 days which I spent in Hanoi were days when I realized howsoever meticulously you might plan your trip, the best moments come unannounced. So if you are the kind who spends a lot of time procrastinating, I would urge you to ditch procrastination because Hanoi is best discovered when left to serendipity except for knowing few key things.
Related: Confused where to visit first in Vietnam. Read Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City
10 TIPS FOR HANOI BUDGET TRAVEL:
Getting a Vietnamese Visa is a cakewalk. Either you can get a visa before you travel (which is more expensive and takes around 2-3 days for processing) or you can get Visa on arrival (pre-approved visa). But before traveling ensure you have an approval letter to check in at the departure airport and to pick up the visa when you arrive. Your waiting time at the airport can vary between 10 minutes to 90 minutes depending on the rush. I used Vietnam Visa Easy to get my approval letter.
Visa Approval letter sample
A friend of mine who works with an airline gave me an insider tip about booking tickets – neither book flights too soon nor leave them for the last moment. It is a myth that booking your flights six months in advance will get you the best deal (unless it’s a sale). Best time to book flights is 3-4 weeks before travel. Also, off season can get you great flight deals. June to September will fetch you the best deals but it gets very hot and humid in the rainy season.
Best time to book international flights. Source: elitedaily.com
One of the reasons for visiting Vietnam was its currency. You can do a lot without spending much. But Vietnamese currency confused the hell out of me. 22,000 Vietnamese dong is equal to one U.S. dollar. However, the good thing is U.S. dollars are widely accepted. Even in a smaller town like Sapa. So don’t bother to carry too much of the Vietnamese Dong. Also, ATMs are everywhere. Credit cards are accepted in major outlets.
I went in November when it was very pleasant to walk around. If possible avoid June-August as that is the time for intolerable heat and humidity. March-May offers a pleasant shower-splashed spring and December- February is cold and humid.
When is the best time to visit Vietnam
Before arriving in Hanoi I was shit scared of traveling alone because of the reputation that precedes the capital. Travel scams are aplenty and Taxis are one of the most ranted about. Thankfully I didn’t have to go through the ordeal.
Overnight bus from Hanoi to Sapa, Vietnam
Cycle Tour rickshaws waiting near the Hoan Lake, Hanoi, Vietnam
While strolling through the by-lanes of Hanoi I wanted to customize my food but I ended up eating what was displayed. Reason. Communication barrier. Unlike the Philippines or even Thailand, Vietnam has a huge language barrier. Most locals understand and speak a few phrases in English, but don’t count on it. While English can get you through the markets and Hanoi, do hire a local English speaking guide for outstation trips to Halong Bay, Mai Chau or Sapa. If you plan to go offbeat then buy a local SIM, easily available at all retail outlets. Google maps, Google translator, and mobile apps to locate restaurants and sightseeing would come handy during your Hanoi budget travel
Foody App is very handy during Hanoi Budget Travel
Hanoi is a wonderland of cheap eats and drinks, offering an endless variety of soups, fresh rolls, vegetable salads, noodle soups, hotpot and sandwiches paired with plenty of fresh herbs — and fresh beer, too. All at a very reasonable price. You could spend a week eating your way through the hectic, motorbike-clogged streets of Hanoi’s Old Quarter and never eat the same meal twice. And guess what. There are plenty of vegetarian and vegan options too. I tried lot of roadside stalls but my top 5 vegetarian places would be
Vegetarian Delight, Hanoi, Vietnam
Street Food Markert, Old Quarters, Hanoi, Vietnam
Street Food, Hanoi, Vietnam
Chestnuts being roasted on Hanoi Streets, Vietnam
‘Bia Hoi’ – The Cheapest beer in the world, Hanoi, Vietnam
Food is incomplete without a drink. And it is sone pe suhaga if it happens to be the cheapest fresh beer in the world – ‘bia hoi’ or draft beer. It costs just 8,000 Vietnamese Dong or under 40 US cents a glass. Best to arrive at 5 p.m. as it runs out around 8 p.m.
After trying the ‘bia hoi’ I wanted to taste the world famous Vietnamese coffee. Hanoi has coffee options from Starbucks to local cafes. I strongly recommend Café Pho Co, a café hidden behind a home hidden behind a souvenir shop, and one of the best places to get a view of Hoan Kiem Lake.
Related: Street Food in Vietnam
And if you are looking for a great place to stay, check out the Nexy Hostel, Hanoi.
I detest shopping but Hanoi converted a non-shopper into a shopper. The hard-to-imagine cheap prices would tempt anyone. I was no exception. A small stroll through the market ended up on a shopping spree. Hanoi’s Old Quarter is lined up with various fashion stores, souvenir stalls, and trinket sellers. It’s a great place to buy your backpacker items. Very cheap prices at a decent quality. But if want to escape the hustle and bustle of Hanoian streets and prefer an air-conditioned mall then head to the Vincom City Towers where you’ll find luxury brands, replicas, good eateries, multiplex and a gaming arena.
Whenever I travel to a new place I always try to get out of the concrete jungle as soon as possible to be with nature but Hanoi turned out to be an exception. A city of Parisian charm and grace with an Asian edge, Hanoi is an enthralling blend of East and West, rustic and polished, traditional and contemporary. I started my exploration by visiting the Hoan Kiem Lake and the Ngoc Son Temple, then down to the French Quarter and the Hanoi Hilton, then to Temple of Literature, then up to the Vietnam Army Museum, and finally to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Nha Tho Cathedral.
One thing that shouldn’t be missed is the night market in the Old Quarter, from 7 p.m. on Fridays and Saturday which is more about strolling around aimlessly than shopping. However, do keep your address handy. When I left Old Quarters during the day it was a shopping arcade but when I returned it had magically transformed into a bustling food market. The lanes looked totally different. In fact, I got lost and after roaming for an hour I finally found my destination. I loved Long Bien Bridge. An awesome spectacle bolted together by history. The red colour lighting and reflection in the Hoan Kiem Lake was making it look very surreal.
Being an impulsive and self-explorer I don’t like taking tours but I took one because of an innovative concept from a student-run NGO: Hanoi Kids Tours. The idea is for tourists to get a flavor of the city by being shown around by local children. HanoiKids was set up in 2006 and is a student-run organisation offering free city tours in Hanoi. The programme provides students with the opportunity to practice their English and provides visitors with a great value guide to Hanoi.
Way to Ngoc Son Temple via scarlet bridge, Hanoi, Vietnam
Scarlet bridge to Ngoc Son Temple, Hanoi, Vietnam
Thap Rua, Hoan Lake, Hanoi
Temple of Literature, Hanoi, Vietnam
I had heard a lot of travel scams about Vietnam so I had pre-booked my trips through a travel agent. He was extremely nice and accommodating. Thanks to him, I had the most amazing 3D2N Halong Bay Paradise Cruise experience. My guide was very knowledgeable and very receptive to customer feedback. He kept us entertained throughout the journey. The food and the services on the cruise were top notches like a 5 star. I did a lot of activities like caving, kayaking, swimming, visiting the pearl farm, visiting the fishing and floating villages, taking Vietnamese cooking class among other things. Besides Halong Bay, one can visit the Perfume Pagoda, Sapa or Mai Chau.
Halong Bay at Sunset, Vietnam
Trying my hand at kayaking, Halong Bay, Vietnam
I just can’t enough of the Golden Hour
View from Thien Cung Cave, Halong Bay, Vietnam
Inside of Thien Cung Cave, Halong Bay, Vietnam
Terrace Farms of Sapa, Vietnam
Hope these 10 tips for Hanoi budget travel puts your procrastination on hold and motivate you to book your trip soon.
For more detailed information on Vietnam do read Practical Guidebook for your First Vietnam Visit and The Untold Story of Sapa
Here is the full version of my ‘Quiet Flows the Indus’ story that got published in the June Issue of Rail Bandhu
A beautiful destination often results in a hangover but a trip to Ladakh leaves you with a permanent hangover! Rather, it mystically changes you from within, for the real, raw and unadulterated beauty of Ladakh and its people touches the very core of your being. Ladakh is one of those places that never leaves you, telling stories of valor and unity.
My Ladakh love has resulted in various spiritual, cultural, heritage and adventure tours. However, this time I decided to follow a journey – the Indus trail right from where it starts. Come on board to enjoy the mystic trail of the mighty Indus River through Leh-Ladakh and enjoy the gushing waters and its natural beauty along!
But before you join me in this glorious journey let me introduce you to the Indus Trail. The Indus River originates from the North of the highly revered Mt. Kailash, entering India at Demchok in Changthang valley, flowing through the remotest part of the Changthang valley for 670 km and then reaches Nimu, where it merges with Zanskar River, creating a beautiful sangam, while continuing onwards to Pakistan.
I arrived at Leh on a cold March morning. As soon as I touched down, I filled my eyes and heart with all of Himalayas, like meeting a parted lover. I had booked myself at the Zaltak guesthouse, where my mom like caretaker welcomed me. She treated me to my favourite Jasmine Kehwa, Ladakhi Roti and the routine lunch.
In the afternoon, with the help of my Ladakhi friend and an Army officer, I was able to secure the innerline permit to travel to Changthang. Acclimatization was necessary as Changthang was higher than Leh. I used the remaining time to acclimatize and revisit my favourite spots in and around Leh – Leh Palace, Hemis, Spituk, Lamayru and Alchi. These spots are also located on the banks of the majestic Indus River.
Monasteries are a constant in Leh. Visiting a monastery is a divine experience. In their tranquil and calm environments stay the most compassionate and knowledgeable people – the monks. They go out of their way to make you feel at home and are very knowledgeable. At Hemis Gompa, I ended up having a conversation with a Lama for hours on the importance of education and how technology can be used to fight global warming!
Post my monastery visit, I hitchhiked to Nimu, the spot where I fell in love with Indus. I was lost in the sight of the blue Zanskar flowing into emerald green Indus. I recalled my earlier experience of taming the wild rapids of Indus, while soaking the breathtaking views of the Ladakh and Zanskar ranges.
En-route to Leh, I decided to visit the Hall of Fame Museum, which houses many a stories about our brave soldiers. I still get goosebumps when I remember Captain Vijayant Thapar last letter to his parents’ days before he made the ultimate sacrifice. The sunset at the next pitstop on my way back was the magnificent Shanti Stupa, where the sunset carried a special message – stay majestic and gracious even in a slump.
I left for Chumangthang, a major junction in the Changthang region early morning the next day. For the entire 139 kms journey, Indus accompanied me. Somewhere frozen somewhere gushing though the canyons. I arrived at Chumathang at 3 pm, crossing several beautiful sights and sounds of Indus. Chumangthang is a small village that is at the junction of many routes and is famous for Hotsprings. My last minute call to an Army friend got me a comfortable stay at the Army Guesthouse. I was introduced to the village Sarpanch, the most respected man in a village of 50 houses and also the owner of the Lamying Hotsprings Restaurant on the banks of the mighty Indus River.
Locals are the unsung heroes who turn good trips into great ones. It was the Sarpanch and unknown locals who helped me reach the interiors of Changthang in a season when even locals fear to go. The Next two days were dedicated to visiting the most beautiful part of Changthang – The Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary. There was just one problem though – the lack of transport. It took a lot of persistence to make the Sarpanch agree!
We left early morning next day to Chumur, the disputed village on Indo-China Line of Actual Control (LAC). The Sarpanch kept me entertained with his stories. According to him, there are 18 lakes in the region, all undiscovered. The famous three are Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri and Tso Kar. We followed the following course for two days:
Chumathang – Mahe Bridge – Sumdo – Namshang La – Kiagar Tso – Korzok – Chumur – Puga – Tso Moriri – Chumathang
This journey was exhausting, dangerous but extremely beautiful and rewarding. Most of the area was deeply buried under the snow blanket. Visiting Chumur was an experience for life. Standing on the actual LAC, it was difficult to decipher where India was and where China was. Why are we humans hell bent on creating borders where none exist!
With a lot of questions in my mind I returned to Puga. Rebo Tent was my home for the night. In spite of multiple barriers, my 66 years old host treated me with utmost love and care. In a harsh barren land where nothing grows, I was offered Ladakhi Roti, Satthu, yak soup and raw yak meat, embodying the true spirit of “athitihi devo bhava”. I had a long conversation with her, thanks to Sarpanch, who was now my interpreter too. She had migrated from Tibet when she was just few months old and she hopes to return to Tibet before she dies.
After bidding goodbye to my lovely host, I went exploring the Puga Nomadic School, Puga Hotsprings and Tso Moriri.
Tso Moriri is the largest of the high altitude lakes in India. During summers you can see incredulous variety of flora and fauna. However, what I witnessed now was something else. The completely frozen white lake flanked by lofty mountains landscape looked surreal. It was difficult to believe that this snow blanket transforms itself into a mystical lake which changes six to seven colours in a day. Mother Nature’s magic knows no end!
Late at night I returned to Chumathang and next day I was ready to start my onward journey to Demchok. I followed the following route during my two day journey:
Chumathang – Nyoma – Koyul – Demchok – Chumathang
The drive from Chumathang to Demchok took me through some of the best sights I have ever seen. The paradisiacal views of the meandering semi frozen Indus River surrounded by the mighty Himalayas were a sight to behold. The last destination on my trip was Demchok, the starting point of the river Indus. Driving up to Demchok was not an easy task! It was slippery and slushy, allowing our vehicle very little grip but where there is a will, there is a way. We managed to reach the exact spot. It wasn’t the joy of reaching the destination that I was relishing but it was the joy of experiencing such an astounding journey that I had only dreamt!
The Indus River was a tiny stream here. It then mystically transforms into a mighty river that has been the bed of mighty civilizations.
Hope you enjoyed this Indus Trail with me as much as I had fun exploring it.
So when are you going to explore it?
Welcome back to Extreme Road Trips in Changthang, Ladakh travelogue series 🙂
In my early extreme road trips travelogue series I threw light on how my unflinching love for the Himalayas took me to the remotest part of the world and how I traversed through the vistas of staggering snow-capped mountains and arid high-altitude plains to reach the disputed land of Changthang – Chumur.
The appeal of staying in Rebo tents of pastoral nomads and immersing in the Tibetan Chang Pa culture was the reason why I chose that semi-paved, high-altitude trail of Puga from Chumur instead of returning to Chumathang. Three hours later, I reached the Chang Pas’s (Pastoral nomads) Rebo Tent and was sipping butter tea. I accepted the offer of an old lady to be her guest and then headed out to explore the Puga Nomadic School. The child in me was awakened by the kids at school. I am not sure if Narendra Modi knows it but he was the favourite icon in that school. I took a small quiz and they all came out with flying colours. As a reward I gifted them all the chocolates I was carrying.
I let them play with my mobile and camera. Our excitement pulled all the teachers from the resident school. The headmaster, who seeded the idea of visiting this school in my head a day before at Chumathang, was very happy to see me. Visiting the Puga Nomadic Residential School was sheer joy. I was greeted with the most beautiful and innocent smiles, offered tea and invited to dinner. I could only accept the tea invitation since I had promised to have dinner at my host’s place.
The Extreme road trips Angels: Kids at the Residential Nomadic School of Puga, Changthang
The Extreme road trips Angels: Kids at the Residential Nomadic School of Puga, Changthang
Sonam’s Rebo Tent was my home for the night. The multiple barriers didn’t stop the 66 years old host from treating me with utmost love and care. In a harsh barren land where nothing grows, I was offered Ladakhi Roti, Satthu, yak soup and raw yak meat, embodying the true spirit of “athitihi devo bhava”. Having spent a day at her place I realized how Chang Pas life revolves around their livestock. Their food, clothes, tent, livelihood; everything comes from their animals. They would usually kill one yak and use its meat for 15 days or more. Its skin is used as an overcoat and as a blanket.
Being a chatterbox I had a long conversation with Sonam, thanks to Sarpanch, who was now my interpreter too. Sonam had migrated from Tibet when she was just a few months old. Although Changthang is her home now, she dreams of returning to Tibet someday before she dies. Despite living in the harshest of conditions, she was content and the glow of contentment was radiating like the sun.
I woke up to the rising sun kissing the tall, stark peaks of the Himalayas. Some of them looked like they were on fire, the orange hues so startlingly bright. After a hearty simple breakfast and heartfelt goodbye, I was on my way to explore the Puga Hotsprings and Tso Moriri.
The Puga hot springs, located at the junction of the Indian and Tibetan plates along the Indus Suture Zone, offers a huge energy potential that can change the developmental scenario of whole Ladakh if harnessed. An amazing frozen structure created by hot springs caught my eye. The water is said to be extremely hot under the ground. At some places, it heats up to 260° Celsius. As soon as it oozes out it freezes into 6-10 feet structures due to an extremely cold temperature in the valley.
On the other side of the road, the multicolored mountains of various minerals were making the barren valley a riot of colours. Some of the mountains had so much Sulphur that a matchstick could burn the entire mountain.
Structure 1 at Puga Hotsprings, Changthang, Ladakh
Structure 2 at Puga Hot springs, Changthang, Ladakh
The Extreme road trips wonders: 6-10 feet tall structures at Puga Hotsprings, Changthang, Ladakh
Spellbound by nature’s wonder, I drove ahead, only to be wowed further by the incogitable Tso Moriri. The lake is at an altitude of 4,595 m and is the largest of the high altitude lakes in India located in secluded, breathtakingly picturesque Rupshu Valley. In summers, the road from Sumdo to the Tso Morori turns into one of the most beautiful stretches of road you’ll see in Ladakh. At Korzok Bridge, I first saw the sight of the mighty Tso Moriri. In summers, you can see an incredulous variety of flora and fauna. However, what I was witnessing now was something indescribable.
The vast, pure and frozen white sheet of the unending lake was flanked by vistas of staggering snow-capped mountains of green, red, purple, grey, brown and beige colours. The whole landscape looked dreamlike surreal. It was so beautiful that even the most beautiful wallpapers would fail in front of it. Tso Moriri is like Sita and Gita. It is unimaginable how this snow blanket transforms itself into a mystical kaleidoscopic lake in summers. It changes up to seven colours in a day. Mother Nature’s magic knows no end! It was my moment to bow my head to Chamatkar ko Namashkar
The Extreme road trips perks: The snowbound region of Changthang, Ladakh
The Extreme road trips have their own perks: frozen Tso Moriri, Changthang
We crossed the no-man-in-sight Korzok village. Korzok has a mostly nomadic population that is non-existent during winters, grazing cattle elsewhere. We wanted to drive to the top viewpoint of Tso Moriri but it was like a vertical skating ring. So we dumped the daring act. And enjoyed our little picnic on the 29 km long and 8 km wide frozen Tso Moriri picnic ground.
Korzok village, with backdrop of Tso Moriri, Changthang
The weather gods were in a happy mood. The sun was shining bright, the cold wind wasn’t blowing and I could see miles and miles away. Like a kid, I started jumping on the hardened snow. But not before ensuring it was tough enough to hold my jumping jack act.
Tso Moriri or the Moon land? Changthang, Ladakh
Not posing. Just a candid shot 😛
Tso Moriri Lake in Summers, Changthang, Ladakh
Suddenly the weather god had a mood swing to probably demonstrate his authority. The spine-chilling cold wave started slapping us. Sun started playing peek-a-boo. Clouds started coming from all directions. Within a moment the beautiful sight looked scary. It became extremely difficult to stand in the open. We had no option but to return.
Traveling through the snowbound route snaking across sparsely located scenic villages and high attitude plateau in the Changthang prefecture is indelibly etched in my mind. Life in Changthang is unhurried, and I took this relaxed atmosphere back with me to Chumathang as night fell.
Chumangthang whispered in my ears, “Why do you humans rush when all you have to do is stand and stare at the marvel of Mother Nature. Enjoy everything you have and do not rue about things that you don’t. Nature will give you what you need and what is rightfully yours.”
The snowbound route of Changthang, Ladakh
Related: If you are looking for tour packages, check out Leh Ladakh Tour Packages
Chang Pas at Puga Hotsprings, Changthang
Even the tongue-out Lamb was happy to see me, Changthang
I didn’t long for a white-knuckle adventure, but snowbound Changthang happened to be one. In Extreme Road Tripping in Changthang, Ladakh – I of this travelogue series I shared how my unflinching love for the Himalayas took me to the remotest part of the world. This post talks about how I traversed through the vistas of staggering snow-capped mountains and arid high-altitude plains while discovering some breathtaking sights and people.
The destination is a powerful motivator for the journey but mostly, it is the journey that matters. A journey to the Changthang Plateau, the rooftop of the world, is not only a stunning salute to the power of nature but also a constant struggle to contain it. Join in to relive this treasured journey.
After I convinced the Sarpanch to be my unsuspecting partner in the trip, I set out in a 4×2 vehicle to Chumathang. Before the journey, he visited the altar room, lit the butter lamp and the incense sticks, and offered water to the great protector of Ladakh. The altar room, with its Buddhist statues and thangkas, was the most important part of his house. In Buddhism, religion is a remedy for coping with tragedies. The tragedy is explained and overcome through ritual and prayers.
Sarpanch offering prayers at his altar room, Chumathang, Changthang
We started with a plan to visit Tso Moriri but being a sucker for unexplored trails, my plans changed midway. And the credit goes to Sarpanch. His stories about the difficult life of living in the disputed Indo-China land and live mummy at Chumur Gompa were good enough reasons to change my mind.
My route for two days of travel was:
Chumathang – Mahe Bridge – Sumdo – Namshang La – Kiagar Tso – Korzok – Chumur – Puga –Sumdo – Tso Moriri – Chumathang
We took the kaccha (unpaved) road passing through his village, where he proudly showed me a 100 years old monastery, a relatively new monastery as per Ladakhi standard. During our drive through the craggy and desolate mountains, he kept talking about the accompanying mountain peaks and what lay behind them. He spoke about the 18 lakes in the region, all of which are not yet discovered. He was particularly fond of Choku La peak (5,560m), a revered peak as per Buddhism. From Mahe Bridge, we started climbing towards the rustic Sumdo village, located downstream from the Puga Hotsprings.
100-year-old Chumathang Village Monastery, Changthang
This village is completely inhabited by the Chang Pas (Tibetan pastoral nomads) who moved here in 1963. From Sumdo, the road climbed up to the prayer flags draped Namashang La pass (5000m). Being a steadfast devotee of the mountain god, Sarpanch offered prayers to the Namashang La. The legend says if you take a round around the pass then mountain god protects you. We did our job and the god did his. After the Namashang La, we passed through the beautiful Kiagar Tso Lake, which was completely frozen. It was impossible to tell where the lake was and where the valley lay. I was enjoying the heart-stopping artistry of the ultimate artist. I was so engrossed in the beauty that I had forgotten to click pictures. Sarpanch knew my love for pictures and reminded me. Call it living in the moment 🙂
Namshang La on the way to Chumur, Changthang
On the way to Chumur from Chumathang, Changthang
After Kiagar Tso, we finally started descending down to Korzok. Barren mountains stretched in every direction, casting shadows over the barely-there road. After reaching the Korzok Bridge, we took a left to continue our drive to Chumur. The 51 km journey from Korzok to Chumur was so awe-inspiring that I easily shrugged off the discomforts and the many heart-in-mouth moments that came as a package deal. After four hours I was finally in Chumur, the tri-junction of Ladakh, Himachal Pradesh and China. This village has been the bone of contention between India and China for the last couple of years. Earlier pastoral nomads could walk into Chinese part while grazing their livestock but now they are not allowed near the border. Standing on the actual LAC, it was difficult to decipher where India was and where China was. Why are we humans so hell-bent on creating borders where none exist!
The disputed land of Chumur from where actual LAC passes, Changthang, Ladakh
Snowbound way from Korzok to Chumur, Changthang
Next on my agenda was to visit ‘the Gompa with the live Mummy’. There are two stories about live mummy. One story says the Lama’s body was embalmed and kept inside the monastery forever because that was his only wish. Every year they have to trim his nails and beard. Another legend says a witch was punished by having her hands dismembered, embalmed and kept in the Gompa as a warning to the people to not take law in their hands. Whatever might be the real story, mountains are full of such folklores. Sometimes they create these stories just to keep the fear alive in people.
Live Mummy at Chumur Gompa, Changthang
Chumur Gompa, Changthang. Pic by Sunil Kumar
Chang Pas Livestock, Chumur, Changthang
Chang Pas Livestock at Chumur, Changthang
Scattered Rebo Tents of Chang Pas at Chumur, Changthang, Ladakh
Chang Pas Rebo Tent at Chumur, Changthang
Visiting Chumur, a village of thirty houses, was an experience for life. The village seemed to belong to a bygone era, an era that we seemed to have left far behind. I wanted to spend a bit more time there but Sarpanch warned me that we might get stuck if we didn’t leave in time so we decided to return to Puga.
What happens in a Rebo Nomad’s tent always stay there. Stay tuned to this channel for more updates – Changthang Part III and Part IV 🙂
Chang Pa (Pastoral Nomad) at Puga, Changthang
How my Delhi to Leh Ladakh trip turned into an extreme and unplanned adventure in the remotest part of the world – Changthang
Chumathang to Nyoma, Changthang
The downside of living abroad is homesickness that hits you like a ton of bricks. I have a good job and a balanced life. But I still feel homesick, not so much for my family or the food but for the Himalayas. The urge to return was so strong at the beginning of the year that I brushed aside a serious threat of losing my job. I didn’t know which home was calling but I was hearing a call – O nadaan parinde ghar aa ja! But as the cliché goes, “When mountains call, you must listen to them.” I did exactly that.
The calling this time was different. There was a different tune to it. I sensed a deeper meaning, probably more than just the travel. Too often, traveling becomes just an itinerary on paper to squeeze as much in as possible. Rushing from place to place to get the boxes ticked, to snap the picture-perfect sunset and to hit the next scenic spot. Sometimes it feels like we are acquiring experiences rather than experiencing them. I had a super crammed itinerary but this time I was determined to travel slow and relish the experiences and not just gather them. As they say, the best dishes are cooked on slow and low flames. I wanted to do something different, go offbeat and live the unique experiences, for they are not found on the beaten track. And guess what, I discovered happiness in the remotest part of the world – Changthang.
Unlike my last three trips From Delhi to Leh Ladakh, this was completely impulsive. And the credit goes to nostalgia. I was going through my picture gallery on phone (not on Facebook) when suddenly a picture clicked in the Changthang plateau in 2014 arrested my attention. Eureka! My eyes glittered with excitement. I called my Ladakhi friend right in the middle of the night. After a brief conversation, I discovered that he was posted in the very place that I wanted to be. Looks like destiny was working super hard for me!. The up-in-the-air-plan was made. But there are many slips between the making of a plan and its finalization. The plan got finalized only a day before I was to fly and I ended up paying a bomb for the flight tickets. The heart doesn’t understand the pain of a wallet. If it decides to go, it decides to go 🙂
The nostalgia invoking picture of Changthang Ladakh
My plan was limited to fly from Delhi to Leh Ladakh. I decided to leave the rest to serendipity and the local conditions. All I knew was, I was going to visit the unexplored Ladakh – the Changthang plateau. I had no clue beyond that. Locals are the unsung heroes who turn your good trip into a great one. My case was no different. The credit for an unforgettable trip goes to them – some I knew beforehand and some I made friends on the trip.
Time to buckle up folks! Hope you have your seat belts locked and have your munchies ready because this will take you through the stories of a lifetime.
From a sweltering 35 degrees to -8 degrees, Leh was a welcome change. The change in temperature had already triggered my “happiness” hormones. Before getting into my cab, I longingly gazed at the beautiful Himalayas, in the same way as long parted lovers look at each other when they meet after ages. Happiness doesn’t require words. It can only be felt by the heart and the eyes. I was relishing my share of happiness. The mountains were mountains, smiling at me and waving at me through gestures that only I could understand 🙂
Touchdown at my favourite Airport, Leh, Ladakh
The first view of Leh, Ladakh
I had booked myself at the Zaltak guesthouse, a place where I’ve lived in the past. The Didi who runs the place is one amazing person. She was preparing for my homecoming. After a lovely hug and exchange of heartfelt pleasantries, I was treated to my favorite Jasmine Kehwa and Ladakhi Roti. Memories of my previous trips hit me hard and off I went dreaming.
My mom cum sister – Didi of Zaltak Guesthouse, Leh
As a part of acclimatization, I wasn’t supposed to go out on the first day but I had no option. I had to secure my inner line permit from the DM’s office to visit the restricted areas of Ladakh. James, one of my good Ladakhi friends had done all the hard work in securing the necessary permissions, while I just signed the document.
And like clockwork, I fell sick. I was continuously throwing up, had a terrible headache and fever. When Didi saw my condition, she went out to get Diamox, a tablet that helps in acclamistisation. All the shops were already closed. But she still managed to get the medicines. She made khichdi and asked me to drink a lot of green tea. She checked on me several times during the night. And voila by morning I was back to my cheerful self 🙂
Next day early morning, I was on my way to Changthang. Around 3 pm, after a long and bumpy ride through the beautiful sights and sounds of frozen Ladakh, I arrived at Chumathang. A small village that is at the junction of many routes.
On my way to Changthang from Leh, Ladakh
Driving is so much fun when you have such a view for a company
Couldn’t stop me from getting down from the car to absorb the view, Ladakh
1962 Indo-China war memorial graves, Leh-Nyoma highway, Changthang
My last minute call to an Army friend, who was posted at Leh, got me a comfortable stay at the Army Guesthouse at Chumathang. From a bathtub to comfortable cozy bed to room heater to cable TV to hot meals and packed lunch, I had all luxuries of life in a place where even getting potable water was difficult. That’s the perk of being associated with the Indian Army. The impossible word doesn’t exist in its dictionary.
Army camp – My home during my stay at Chumathang, Changthang
My room at Chumathang Army guesthouse, Changthang
The Guest House in-charge introduced me to the village Sarpanch – Skarma. He was the most respected man in a village of 50 houses and ran Lamying Hotsprings Restaurant on the banks of the mighty Indus river on the Leh-Hanle highway. The all glass restaurant gave a greenhouse effect, amazingly warm in a cold barren land where temperatures plummet to -40 degree in winters. Almost everyone traveling on this highway stopped at his restaurant.
Lamying Hotsprings Restaurant, Chumathang, Changthang, Ladakh
Ladakh battalion soldiers posted at Demchok, taking a break at Sarpanch’s restaurant
The kitchen that feeds at least 100 people daily on Leh-Nyoma highway
In case you didn’t know, Chumathang is a place famous for Hotsprings. There is one particular hot spring that hardly anyone knows about – it stays in the riverbed for ten minutes, the water looks very calm and suddenly it oozes out with full force. And the same loop continues. I would have been contended by seeing the usual hot spring site and would have never known something like this exists had Sarpanch not showed it to me.
The water vapour steam that you see in the middle is caused by Hotsprings at Chumathang
The Chumathang Hot Springs, Changthang, Ladakh
They say mountain life is not easy. I experienced that first hand. Though the water is so hot here that you can boil eggs in 5 minutes, it leaves a pungent smell and taste to the food. That’s why the Sarpanch’s staff walks for four km uphill to the Chumathang village to fetch water for cooking, every single day. And it’s not a few liters. He gets water to cook for at least 100 people every day.
I spent a lot of time talking to villagers, army personnel, Ladakhi Scouts, and locals taking a break at Sarpanch’s restaurant. I was listening to all kind of unheard of stories, like a child glued to her grandparent’s bedtime stories. One of them I spoke to was the headmaster at the Puga Nomadic School. His stories about the school and the difficult life lived by the pastoral nomads inspired me to visit the place, which had nearby not-to-miss-at-any-cost attractions like Tso Morori Lake, Sumdo and Karzok Tibetan nomadic villages, Puga hot springs, and Chumur.
The only problem at hand was finding a cab. There were only two personal cars – one of a government servant working in Nyoma and other of the Sarpanch. Both were busy with their own schedules. Despite being out of bounds, I had to try! Nobody was ready to accompany me on this daredevil stunt. Even money failed to lure them. Reason – the area was completely frozen and cars would often skid. No connectivity. No help. But where there is a will there’s a way.
Curiosity takes you to places where no map or app can take. Are you curious enough to find out what happened next? How did I manage to witness the frozen wonders of Tso Moriri and the beautiful villages?
Stay curious and stay happy.
Don’t be foolhardy like me. Book your flights early. Money saved is money earned. Last minute flight are very expensive in March-April because it is the time when outside workers and locals return to Ladakh to prepare for the upcoming tourist season
Give yourself ample time to acclimatize – at least two days. Changthang is at a greater height than Leh, therefore, it poses serious health issues. Carry Diamox for sure and if you encounter any health problem, visit the hospital at Nyoma
Don’t skip your meals even if you don’t feel like eating. Drink lots of green tea/butter tea and water
Changtang Wildlife Sanctuary is home to many rare species of flora and fauna. Even when on road, keep an eye on the mountains and plains. I saw a Tibetan wolf hunting cows, Kaing (Tibetan Wild Ass), wild dogs, wild Yak and Ibex
Secure your inner line permits before visiting places like Hanle, Chusul or Chumur. No permit no access
Leave Leh early so that you can reach well in time and look for accommodation, in case you have not booked in advance
If you plan to visit Hanle, Tso Moriri and Puga then you can either stay at Chumathang or at Nyoma. At Chumathang, Sarpanch has a good guesthouse that accommodates 4-6 people and comes with all basic facilities like hot water, heater, cozy bed etc. There is a PWD Guesthouse too. Nyoma has a PWD Guesthouse and many homestays
You have to hire your own cab as there is only once a week bus (leaves at 12 PM every alternate Sunday). And don’t forget to tank up and carry extra fuel for your return journey. There’s no petrol pump in the region.
Sitting at a beach-side bar. Live band playing. Adele, the undisputed queen of melody, is rocking the scene. Sometimes it hurts.
The lyrics remind me of Ranthambore National Park. Baffled by the link between a sad love song and a National park? Well, the link is what gave birth to this article.
It is what I felt when I saw how Ranthambore National Park is slowly transforming into a circus. Though circuses have long gone out of business in India, National Parks are trying to take their place. Don’t believe me? Here’s my personal account on the plight of poor wild animals. Let’s rewind.
On 18th March 2016, when the world was sleeping, I was wondering if my jungle Safari vehicle would show up. It’s already 6:30 am. My call time was 5:30 am. Why hasn’t it arrived yet? Was there some accident? Was my booking canceled at the last moment? All kinds of weird thoughts were crossing my mind.
Finally at 7 am our Tiger Safari canter arrived. No apologies were given. All seats were taken. Mostly foreigners except for two Indian families. One family had a 2-3 months old baby. Other family had a toddler and a 2 years old kid. I had no place to sit. So I had to involuntarily endure the bumpy ride while getting sun-baked. The sun was in punishing mood even though it was only mid-March.
Sanju, our safari guide, tried his best to make up for the time lost. But today was not a day for me. Some more waiting since our guide had to register passengers’ details at the park entrance Gate. In the meantime, some hawkers tried to make a quick buck by trying to sell a cap worth Rs. 250/- for 1100 to a foreigner. The deal was finally sealed at Rs. 700/- Both parties were happy as both thought they made a good bargain.
After 15 minutes of wait, we finally entered the park but again we had to wait at the Jogi Mahal Gate. We were probably amongst the last ones to arrive. And at last, after Sherlock-ing for some time, I found the culprit responsible for our delay. It was the Indian families onboard (no points for guessing). One family couldn’t get ready on time and therefore everyone had to suffer.
Birds saying Hi to us at Jogi Mahal Gate, Ranthambore National Park
Zone 3 Jungle Safari Route, Ranthamore National Park
Sanju started telling us about the park and giving instructions on how to behave when we spot a tiger. Little did he know that adults become worse than kids when they see a Tiger. We cross other vehicles loaded with enthu cutlet ‘tiger lovers’ telling us they saw the tiger here…there…everywhere. We have been roaming in the park for almost an hour now but no luck so far. Everywhere same story is replayed. “Arrey aap late hogaye. Abhi toh yahin dikha tha Tiger.” (Oh!You are late. We just saw a tiger here!)
Finally, Sanju asked the driver to kill the engine near a water body in Zone 3 where tiger sightings are the most. There were already a few canters and gypsies waiting. Karol Bagh aunties were busy sharing success stories of Tiger sighting in full volume. Either the person that they are talking to was deaf or probably they were deriving sadistic pleasure by teasing lesser mortals like us who still haven’t had Tiger darshan.
Our guide Sanju was an intelligent person and thankfully didn’t get swayed by countless suggestions given by our co-passengers. Giving into their suggestion would have meant that we roamed like headless chickens in the park without any success. After waiting for half an hour we decided to move towards the grass. And as we were moving, Sanju told our driver to stop and park the canter on a side. The excitement was building and the tension was palpable.
Zone 3 Jungle Safari Route, Ranthamore National Park
Still in search of the elusive Tiger. Ranthambore National Park
Voila! There’s a Tiger. It’s patiently waiting for the right moment to pounce on its prey. However, little did it know it’s not going to be its day. Everyone starts jumping with the excitement of sighting a Tiger. Seeing the excitement in our canter the other vehicles get the hint. Everyone came rushing in. 8 Gypsies and 5 canters. The Tiger is being pursued by dozens of Gypsies and Canters carrying camera-toting wildlife enthusiasts. All kind of cameras in action- from point and shoot to DSLR’s, from mobile phones to iPads. People were about to get down from the Gypsy and vehicles were encroaching Tiger’s territory.
And the icing on the cake was the kids squealing and shouting. Not just in our canter but in others too. Now the whole Jungle Safari experience looked like Jurassic Park meets Disney World. I wonder how the Tigers cope with this continual harassment and intrusion.
Tourists going picture crazy during Tiger Safari, Ranthambore National Park
Our noise had frightened the prey and the predator. I was heartbroken to not experience the safari the way I had imagined. Our guide Sanju probably read my mind. He asked us to sit quietly if we wanted to see the Big cat in full glory. His strict tone put the kids and the parents (who were worse than kids) to their place. Now without making any noise, we were all waiting.
After some more waiting, we finally saw the Tiger in full glory. He was preparing for the kill. For approximately one hour I saw him following his prey patiently. If there’s one thing we can learn from Tigers is their patience. In spite of being so powerful and strong, they have to play the waiting and the patience game.
Finally Tiger Darshan, Ranthambore National Park
Hunt mode on for the king of the Jungle, Ranthambore National Park
Tiger patiently waiting for its prey, Ranthambore National Park
Another Tiger near Padam Lake, Ranthambore National Park
Picture crazy wildlife enthusiasts hounding the Tiger, Ranthambore National Park
I was happy because in spite of lousy co-passengers I saw the majestic Tiger. But I really wish that the Government can step in to stop this circusisation of our National Parks. Strict penalties should be imposed on travelers who become a nuisance for the Jungle or maybe just feed them to the tiger!
Related: How many Tigers are left in the world
Ranthambore National Park is best enjoyed with as little ambient noise as possible. For better or worse, it turns into a circus during long weekends or holiday season. So visit it during weekdays. March-May is the best time to spot the Tiger. When the park reopens in mid-October, the jungle becomes lusher after the monsoon, but tall grass makes it harder to spot the big cat.
Only park-approved vehicles are allowed inside the Jungle. There are a limited number of vehicles allowed into the park, a maximum of 40 vehicles, 17 Gypsies for tourist and 3 Gypsies for VIP and 20 Canters at any one time. Only 8 Gypsies are allowed on a track. You can either choose an uncovered Gypsy, which seats six people, or a Canter that seats up to 20. You can book per seat. The Gypsy costs approximately 6000 and is ideal because it allows you more freedom to go explore the park’s many nooks and corners. The Canter costs 800 per person. Gypsies are in high demand, so book early. You can reserve one through the park’s official website. You can also book through a travel agent or your hotel, though they’ll add their service charge.
Ranthambhore park is divided into ten zones. Visitors are assigned their Jungle Safari zone by lottery. If possible, insist on getting Zone 3 and 4. These are VIP zones and are the best bet to sight a Tiger. If you can pull some strings, try for the Freezone Gypsy which comes with a satellite phone. It has a freedom to go in any zone of the park.
There are two safaris a day – morning safari starts at 6.30 a.m. and evening safari starts at 3 p.m. Usually, morning safari is better. However, starting April 2016 five gypsies will be allowed for a full day Safari in the park only on the tourist zones (1-5). The full-day ticket would be Rs. 30,000 for Indians and Rs. 40,000 for foreigners.
Reaching Ranthambore is not difficult. You can either fly to Jaipur, take a three-hour road journey or you can take a train to Sawai Madhopur. There are direct trains from Delhi and Mumbai, but make sure to book way in advance.
As per the locals, there are 62 Tigers in Ranthambore right now. The stories of Fateh, the largest Tiger, and Machali are world famous. Do talk to locals to get scoop on Jungle tales
Ranthambore National park contains rich flora and fauna. If you are a nature lover you are in for a treat. You can see Tigers, Leopards, Striped Hyenas, Sambar deer, Chital, Nilgai, langurs, Macaques, Jackals, Jungle cats, Caracals, Sloth bears, Black bucks, Rufoustailed Hare, Indian Wild Boar, Chinkara, Common Palm Civets or Toddy cat, Coomon Yellow Bats, Desert Cats, Fivestriped Palm Squirrels, Indian False Vampires, Indian Flying Foxes, Indian Foxes, Indian Gerbilles, Indian Mole Rats, Indian Porcupines, Longeared Hedgehogs, Ratels, Small Indian Mongoose, Small Indian Civets and Common mongoose. You can also see marsh reptiles near the water bodies.
Ranthambore is also counted as the famous heritage site because of the pictorial ruins that dot the wildlife park. You can visit the Ranthambore Fort and Raj Bagh Ruins. These ruins are located between the Padam Lake and the Raj Bagh Lake. Padam Lake is the largest lake in the park and the beautiful Jogi Mahal is located on its edge. Jogi Mahal is the place where apparently Bill Clinton stayed. And if you are game for a walk, do climb up the Ranthambore Fort, which stands majestically atop a hill overlooking the entire park.
You can club your Ranthambore Jungle Safari with a tour to Jaipur, Agra or Bharatpur. Or if you want to explore the lesser explored places then do visit Chand Baoli at Abhaneri or Samode.
Padam Lake, one of the favourite spot for Tiger Spotting, Zone 3, Ranthambore Jungle Safari
Padam Talab, Zone 3, Ranthambore Jungle Safari
The prey of the Tiger – Sambar Deer, Ranthambore National Park
Crocodile resting at Padam Lake, Ranthambore National Park
Crocodile at Ranthambore National Park
Birds at Ranthambore National Park
Beautiful Fauna at Ranthambore National Park
Are you looking at me? Ranthambore National Park
Jogi Mahal, Ranthambore National Park
PS: Special thanks to Manish Sharma for making this trip and article happen.
“Hey, are you from India? The land of colours, cows and Taj Mahal.”
“I can’t believe it snows in India. I always thought it’s a hot country.”
“Adventure travel in India? You gotta be kidding me. I guess the biggest adventure would be to get into a train.”
“Is it safe for girls to travel in India? I keep reading and hearing about so many rape cases.”
“I always thought traveling in India would just be for visiting temples or doing Yoga.”
These are the usual questions I get asked whenever I travel abroad or meet any foreigner. India is still considered to be a poor country where travel means just visiting temples and clicking pictures of cows and also the land where the concept of adventure and solo travel still seems alien. Where girls are still suppressed by men. Where Indians are still considered to be timid and low on self-confidence.
However, with time, Indians too are trying to change this perception of what the world at large thinks about us. I am trying my one cent as well. Every time I meet a foreigner I wear my Indian ambassador hat and try to share the Incredible India picture. Travel becomes the centre of my discussions. Travel See Write becomes my tool to bring that change.
In my earlier post, I shared the motivations of adventure enthusiasts from different walks of life on what motivates the people to choose adventure travel. Taking that story further, I am going to share some offbeat adventure activities that you might not have heard of before. Activities like desert safari, skiing down the snowy mountainous slopes or hiking the toughest terrains have become the norm for millions of travellers. Some countries like Nepal have based their entire GDP on adventures that form the core component of their tourism industry. Despite this being the era of internet and communication, there are several adventure activities that are still offbeat and remain true to their raw essence.
Here are few of them. Maybe next time you can try one of them if you haven’t tried yet:
Bolivia’s North Yungus Road Aka Road of Death is the biggest tourist drawcard of this South American country. Every year hundreds of cyclists attempt to travel downhill the Road of Death assisted by gravity and compounded by hair-raising hairpin turns, narrow tracks and occasionally mud gravel instead of proper tarmac. Each year 300 people die while travelling down the road and yet it remains the hottest cycling adventure in the world. The rewards are amazing; with beautiful views of valleys, thick forest ridges and misty clouds, with streams of water and rains being your constant companions.
Mountain Biking in Road of Death, Bolivia
Antarctica is one of the last few wildernesses of our planet; still free from touristy commercialization. This continent is rough, harsh and is a test of human surviving skills. The continent is now base for several research labs set-up by various countries. However, its real test is the skiing expedition to the South Pole, the ultimate challenge! This trip to the South Pole takes 50-60 days and requires a higher degree of physical fitness, strength, stamina, and endurance coupled with sound mental strength and indomitable spirit. A general day involves 7-8 hours of skiing over the ice caps filled with intense solitude and tranquillity. No plants and animals are seen in this part of the continent. Frozen rocks, endless stretches of snow and blue skies are your constant companion along with 24-hour daylight.
Peru is renowned for its mysterious sites associated with the lost Inca Civilizations and high altitude cities and villages. However, the country is also known for sand dunes. Peru has the world’s highest sand dunes, Cerro Blanco which is a highly popular sandboarding destination in the world. Cerro Blanco sand dunes have an elevation of 2070 meters and are located in Nasca, Peru. Enjoy the adrenaline rush as you glide down the desert while enjoying the views of the vast sprawling desert.
Sandboarding at Cerro Blanco, Peru
Kamchatka, Russia is one place where life is harsh and conditions are extreme. Punishing low temperatures, heavy snow and a lack of oxygen makes it one of the most difficult places on earth to travel. Imagine skydiving in these conditions and all you have is an unbeatable and dangerous adventure which is only available for highly certified and accomplished skydivers. One needs to know how to operate radios, use parachutes and many more technicalities to accomplish the daring adventure. The views are sensational: from a volcano to hot springs and vast acres of wilderness – you get to see it all.
Skydiving in Kamchatka, Russia
Every year heavy snowfall and sub-zero temperature turn the mighty River Zanskar, a tributary of Indus River into a solid mass of ice sheet. The river is the only lifeline and mode of communication in Ladakh, located in the north of Indian State of Jammu and Kashmir. The setting is close to -20 degrees as you trample the frozen river, camp on ice slabs and spend the night in your tent. Windy conditions and unstable ice sheet add extreme challenge to the trek that requires high physical fitness and mental strength. There are a lot of other exciting things to try in Kashmir, do check Kashmir Tour Packages for more information.
Chadar Trek on frozen Zanskar River, India
Cerro Negro is an active volcano located outside of Leon, Nicaragua. The volcano is also the most exciting place for adventure seekers as they can enjoy volcano boarding, an extreme sport. The adrenaline rush is great for enthusiasts but it comes at a cost. The volcanic gravels create a great deal of friction at high speed and a slight movement can change the course of the wooden board leaving you sliding across the steep slope of Cerro Negro giving you several bruises and injuries. Even the crash protection suits won’t be able to save you from the skin peel offs and bloody cuts and bruises.
Volcano Boarding at Cerro Negro, Nicaragua
Victoria Falls in Zambia is one of the most spectacular sights on earth amongst the seven natural wonders of the world. The cascading waterfalls from a dramatic height look sensational. The waterfall looks at its very best from the air as you skydive over the vast falls and its surrounding areas. As you glide down, see the beautiful waterfall, rainbows, mist of waterfalls and endless stretches of African horizon.
Sky Diving over Victoria Falls, Zambia
So aren’t you excited already?
What are you waiting for?
“Mam, kya aap kabhi Mumbai-Pune highway se uttar kar aas paas ke gaanv mein gaye ho?”
(Mam, have you ever visited the villages on the Mumbai-Pune highway?”)
Sometimes a question as simple as this can spark your travel plans. During one of my Mumbai-Pune business trips my driver became my inspiration for exploring the Maharashtrian Ecotourism. He was from Kamshet village and the way he described his place was so vivid and inviting that no travel guide could have explained it better. It took me an year to firm up my plan. But thanks to him, I got to see what wasn’t even in my consideration. Unfortunately he wasn’t free so I chose to opt for one of the car rentals in Mumbai. So let’s start my Maharashtrian Ecotourism journey:
I started my journey by going back to the roads of AH-47. It might not be as famous as Mumbai-Pune Expressway is, but it’s got the beauty of the ghats and the rustic charm of rural India. A short drive away from the expressway lies this hidden quaint pollution free village of Matheran. Matheran is a place where it seems like time has taken a pause to rejuvenate. I couldn’t help myself from inhaling lungs full of fresh air, which is so rare in city life. While walking around, I felt Mathetran was whispering in my ears. Perhaps complaining why it took me so long to come here. Silent apologies were exchanged and peace was made. Matheran was lovingly showing me around it’s abundant beauty. I felt like a VIP as there were hardly any person in sight.
During my exploration by foot I discovered this hill spot is declared an eco-sensitive area by the Ministry of Environment. And I am glad for that decision, it’s high time we preserve such rare gems. Matheran showed me how life can be lead devoid of vehicles and pollution, like how the world was many years ago. Matheran Trek is something that one must do even if you are not a trekker. The views are breathtaking and you wouldn’t mind the hard work when you see the valley views.
Matheran Trek
Garbett Point, Matheran
Let me be candid with you. When I plan my travels I don’t put everything on paper. I plan a very rough itinerary. Usually the time I have in hand and my to and fro places. Rest I leave it to the actual moment, nature and locals. Before I started my Maharashtrian Ecotourism Journey I had not heard about Saguna Baug. I just planned to visit Matheran but a casual chat with a local in Matheran gave me an idea to continue my journey to Saguna Baug, which is about 40 km from the Expressway. Why I fell in love with this place is because here sustainable Ecotourism is not just meant for books but is practised in real life. I’d say this is a perfect place for all those with green thumbs. Here I saw a complete model agricultural garden with ideas and methods to enhance my own garden back home. This baug, or garden, which is about 50 acres, has been encouraging agro-tourism by setting up examples of forestry and agriculture in limited spaces. I took a tour of the farm and took part in village activities from fish farming to fishing to horse-riding.
Saguna Baug, Maharashtra, Pic by around-pune.com
My next pit-stop was Kamshet, which is now famous for paragliding. Since I wasn’t too keen on paragliding, I decided to explore the mud-brick-lined villages surrounded by scenic beauty. Bullock carts and cycles are the common modes of transportation here and people are most often found walking to the farms or their dairy farms. Raikar farm is a beautiful farm where I could first-hand experience farming and village life. And guess what. I even tried my hand at milking cows. Obviously I failed miserably at it 😛 My respect for the people who gets food and dairy on your plates increased by several notches.
Paragliding at Kamshet, Kamshet, Pic by Mehul Pithadiya
After exploring the beauty of Kamshet, I decided to return to a place where I had been earlier as well but decided to do something that I had not done before. The spectacular Karla Caves is well-known to an avid traveler. What I didn’t explore earlier were the villages around it. Once I toured and witnessed the magnificence of the rock-cut caves, I took short drives around and discovered the villages, the names of which I have forgotten but their unique identity is firmly etched in my mind. These hamlets came as a treat for me since I was yearning for some typical Maharashtrian Ecotourism experience.
Karla Caves, Lonavala, Maharashtra by Soham Banerjee
Morachi Chincholi is a paradise for nature lovers like me. Although it is situated quite a distance away from the highway but still I chose to visit it because the farther you go away from the concrete jungle better are the chances of exploring hidden jewels of natural jungle. It is a small village which encourages living close to nature and is predominantly filled with peacocks. Located in the heart of Maharashtra, this place offered me a wide range of rural Ecotourism activities to both view and participate in. The locals were bemused by my presence and were actively showing me around.
Morachi Chincholi, Pune, Maharashtra, Pic by Santosh Bhagade
The two days I spent exploring the Maharashtrian Ecotourism was truly enriching for my eyes as well as for my lungs. A great weekend getaway from the hustle bustle of Mumbai. But I would have not been able to explore so much if I would have not had a good transport service and driving in one of the Mumbai-to-Pune cabs was an ideal way to explore the beauty of the refreshing highway connecting the two epic cities.
So when are you going to travel see and write about the Maharashtrian Ecotourism?
Books are the unique portable magic, which transport you to lands unknown and unexplored.
The magic which transports you into a new world that is so different from yours, and yet somehow you identify with it. Some books lead you on a fascinating journey that might change your life and open up your mind. And, in the process instill a burning desire in you to explore the place visualized in the book.
One such book was Eat, Pray, Love. Elizabeth Gilbert’s journey firmly put Bali on my travel list. After roaming around the world for years, finally, Bali happened in February 2016. Supposedly the off-season in Bali when it pours like cats and dogs. A season when tourists are advised to stay away from the island. But for a person like me who is a sucker for challenges off-season is actually the best season to explore a place. So in spite of all negative feedback Bali trip was booked. Without much planning, I landed on the island on February 23rd, 2016.
I’m not the only one fascinated by Gilbert’s description of the lush green generous island that heals everyone. Many tourists come to Bali seeking sunshine, spirituality and sweetheart. So, yes I too was in Bali to heal myself and find love. Love not from someone else but from within. In a life full of deadlines I had forgotten to love myself. I had forgotten to smile. I had forgotten to appreciate smaller things. Basically, I needed to connect to the nature to reconnect with myself. So unknowingly I was in Bali to heal myself. Unknowingly because I had not planned anything.
I wanted to go with the flow and explore new things. I went empty handed to Bali but the island had so much to offer. If there is one place I would recommend anyone to go to rejuvenate or to heal oneself it would be Bali (after Ladakh). It’s one of the best places to relax and unwind, aided by beautifully cheerful people and strikingly vivid landscapes in an environment that is fast-paced yet laid-back.
So without much ado let me share my first impressions and things to do in Bali Indonesia where I discovered love in offseason:
When I first arrived in Bali, I was actually confused if it was the peak season or the lean season. Seminyak, Kuta, Nusa Dua and other parts of South Bali were buzzing with the crowd. However, I soon realized Bali gives you back what you ask for. I asked for peace and I was suitably rewarded. In no time, I was experiencing the mighty waterfalls roaring at thunderous sound, rice paddies cascading down rolling hills, crystal clear water kissing the white and black sand beaches, volcanoes piercing the clouds, landscapes dotted with temple ruins, lush green valleys veiled with monsoon clouds, mist-covered lakes playing hide n seek with clouds, tropical forests buzzing with wildlife and exotic fruits of Bali. Unfortunately, I am a nonswimmer otherwise diving in Indonesia would have been epic.
Most of the times I was the lone traveler. I was relishing the dreamlike views. One such view was the Lake Batur view from the Lakeview hotel at Kintamani Volcano. The hotel that would normally refuse guests had no guests except me. The only sound I could hear was either of the hushing trees, chirping birds or perhaps the sound in my mind. Listening to such sounds is probably the best time to talk to oneself. Solitude in the company of nature answers questions which you wouldn’t have found answers before.
Lovina Beach, Just before the Storm, North Bali
Wooden walkway on Lovina Beach, famous for Dolphin watching, Bali
Tegenungan Waterfalls, the only waterfall on River Tegenungan, 10 kms from Ubud, Bali
Munduk Waterfall, North Bali where I was the only person present
Nusa Dua, South Bali is the go-to place for any famous or ordinary tourist arriving in Bali
Pantai Pandava, a famous beach for locals and tourists in South Bali
I must confess I am not a foodie and being a Vegetarian comes with its own challenges. Most of the times my bags have more food packets than anything else. So either I depend on packaged food or on fruits. But Bali is the best place one can ask for when it comes to exotic organic food worth to die for. I didn’t have a single bad meal in Bali until I tried an Indian restaurant in Kuta. Indonesian cuisine is loaded with a multitude of vegetarian and vegan dishes, making it easy for vegan travelers. Even hardcore meat serving restaurants had an extensive vegetarian menu. And the best part was the presentation – droolicious. The new organic cafes experiment a lot with food.
There was one particular place, Cemara Guest House, that I completely fell in love with. While coming back from Tamblingan Lake it started to rain and the temperature dropped drastically. My driver stopped at a home-based small restaurant run by a husband and wife. I was the only guest there. Till date, I have not had a tea better than Bali Jahe (Ginger Tea). I had a soup and a Balinese dish called Cap Cay and Balinese Urab. I must say I still miss that taste.
I tried a lot of cuisines from Mexican food to Mediterranean food to Thai Food to American food to fresh-from-farm Organic food, Vietnamese food and local Balinese food like Tempeh, Nasi Campur. And everything tasted fresh and juicy with distinct flavours. Probably I’ll go back to Bali just for food.
Exotic Organic Vegetarian Food in Bali is the reason why I would go back to Bali
Cemara Guest House, Near Tamblingan Lake, North Bali where I had the most amazing meal
Having a meal while overlooking these beautiful Rice Terraces of Tegalalang, Bali, can make anyone hungry
Bali being a tropical island is usually hot and humid throughout the year, which makes exploring Bali on foot a bit taxing. However, during monsoon, it’s a different scene altogether. If you love rain then there’s nothing like walking through the paddy fields for hours being entertained by the rain dance. I was cranky when I started walking through Ubud to eat at the much famed Sari Organik Café, 2 kms from the main road situated amongst the lush green paddy fields. Sun was playing the spoilsport. And suddenly the rain gods smiled on me. I started enjoying the walk like a dancing peacock. I was absorbing everything and appreciating the beauty around me.
This was followed by the Campuhan ridge walk, an unusually romantic short trek through rice fields, bejeweled with quaint Indonesian huts and a gurgling river giving you company alongside. It was a walk to remember. And that’s not it, if you get tired walking then there is Karsa Kafe and Spa to rejuvenate you.
Sari Organik Cafe with the view of Paddy fields, Ubud, Bali (please enlarge the pic and see)
View from the Campuhan Ridge Walk Trek, Ubud, Bali
The Campuhan Ridge Walk Trek, Ubud, Bali
Soaking the view on the Campuhan Ridge Walk, Ubud, Bali
Trek to Gitgit waterfalls, North Bali where I spoke to the rain
Bali is like one big art gallery which offers the most unique shopping experiences, where you can discover a treasure trove of artworks and handicrafts by talented local craftsmen, all at bargain prices! The Balinese are born with a talent to absorb different cultures, blending them with their own, to produce dynamic new artistic hybrids. Across the years, Bali has soaked up Chinese, Buddhist, Indian, Hindu, Javanese and Western influences, which can be seen in their art.
There are dedicated Handicraft Villages where Bali’s talented artisans live. Some of the artistic villages worth exploring are Batubulan for stone carving, Celuk for silver and gold jewellery, Mas for wood carving, and Pengosekan for painting. If you are an art lover and looking for interesting things to do in Bali then don’t forget to visit these markets to get a glimpse into the wonderful artistry and creativity of the island’s craftsmen – Ubud Art Market, Sukawati Art Market, Guwang Art Market, Kumbasari Art Market and Kuta Art Market.
Bali Handicrafts Market
An artist busy crafting his artwork, Bali
Bedugul Market famous for fresh fruit, spices, Balinese foods and artifacts
One striking feature about Bali is its people and their ever smiling faces. Ever after uber commercialization love is still the universal currency in Bali. Where people still go out of their way to help you. Had it not been the staff of Villa Bunga or my driver Kumang I would have probably never seen the soul of Bali.
All the people I met in Bali are now friends for life. Balinese are simple god fearing and peace-loving people. Everyone you meet will greet you with a smile. People are happy, for no apparent reason. They are content with themselves. They are joyful. Their minds are peaceful and they are grateful to be able to work every day. They are proud of their traditions but at the same time are not closed to embrace the good elements from other cultures. It is really interesting to know their folk stories and a peek into their lives.
My ever smiling driver cum guide, Kumang, who made my Bali trip so special
These were just a few off-the-mind First Impressions of the Balinese island. There are a lot of things to do in Bali Indonesia that are worth sharing. I would be happy to share that. Do keep looking for more Bali stories coming your way.
In the meantime, do check these posts and let me know if they helped you put Bali, Indonesia on your travel list?
Related: Where to stay in Uluwatu Bali
Related: What to Do in Bali in 10 Days or Less
Have you ever been to Bali, if yes, please do share your feedback in the comment section below?
The travel industry has changed immensely in the last five years or so; one moment, we’re buying travel books at subway stations and asking the front desk for itinerary ideas, and the next moment, we’re booking flights and meeting travel companions with the help of smartphone apps. It’s obviously still possible to trek across the globe without our devices, but the majority of us have come to know that Free Travel Apps make it miles easier to explore different parts of the globe. We all have our app preferences, but everyone can probably agree that among these smartphone travel essentials include XE Currency, Google Translate, TimeOut and many others, in addition to location specific apps in order to make life easier on the road.
To think that something as small as your phone can contain a wealth of information to replace physical guidebooks and maps is something that we probably wouldn’t have really expected in this industry, especially with bloggers arguing whether technology has cheapened the travel experience or not. But statistics demonstrate that travel is rising above other popular app types and catching up with top categories such as games, which is currently dominating the market with mobile friendly interactive puzzle games. While travel apps may never see similar download rates like Candy Crush, explorers like you and I are continually experimenting with a myriad of smartphone tools to discover the best apps that satisfy their wanderlust.
One of the most rewarding trips that I’ve ever embarked on by far was my tour through SE Asia, and that wouldn’t have been possible without the assistance of my iPhone. If you’re thinking about heading to the region in the near future, make sure you have these handy apps on your gadget:
Narrow down your flight and hotel searches to SE Asia with this app. With no hidden costs and “Smart Combo” options that grant you up to 40% in savings, Traveloka is your ticket to cheap travel around the globe’s top backpacking destination.
See what people had to say about the restaurants in your current city with Foody. Most of the eateries listed in the app are in Vietnam but there are plenty of reviews of food places in neighboring countries.
Grivy is the first app in the region to offer bids on amazing deals, from concert tickets to day trips and spa treatments to dining packages. Bidding can start as low as $1.
So these were some of my favourite travel apps. What are yours?
It’s been almost five years since I started my travel writing journey. I gave up my well-settled job and a stable life to travel the world. To be frank, it wasn’t easy to earn money while travelling. Moreover, travel blogging itself changed so much in the last few years and with new challenges like Instagrammers, YouTubers and anyone who has got a phone camera suddenly became a Social Media Influencer.
But Travel Blogging or content creation is not an easy job. It requires a lot of hardwork and patience. Most importantly, before becoming a successful travel blogger you have to become a super traveler by acing all the travel hacks that enables you to get good travel deals and create content that is unique. Every time I upload a picture on Instagram or share my travel story on Travel See Write I am bombarded with questions such as how do I get paid to travel the world, how much money do bloggers make, what are the different ways to make money while traveling or how to raise money for a trip. Unfortunately, the harsh reality is there are no free lunches – no one will pay you to work and travel unless you offer something that others aren’t. Travel blogging for beginners is a classic case of chicken-egg. The key to monetise your blog or just to support yourself while traveling is by becoming a SUPER TRAVELER. Here are 10 travel hacks I used when I started my travel blogging career:
Most of us work till the last minute on Friday, only to enjoy the weekend travel. Most weeks do not have any holidays during the week and hence most of our travel ends up on weekends. Leave as soon as you can on a Friday evening, even if it means getting your luggage to office/workplace. Avoid all chit chat, coffee and have a quick lunch to get most work done quickly and leave asap so that you can make most of the weekend. Reach your holiday destination early on a Saturday to leave you with at least two full days to enjoy!
Most of us forget but there are such things. You collect frequent flier miles every time you fly (except low cost). Use them regularly to save money on your flight tickets. I recently booked a Chennai – Singapore ticket on Malaysian airlines for less than INR 5,000. Yes, I flew a full-service airline. It is important to note that miles have an expiry date and even more important to keep checking your account statement regularly for details. Many airlines run offers on air miles and some offer extra perks to frequent fliers like additional baggage, quick check in etc.
The holiday calendar is out at the beginning of the year yet most of us plan only a week in advance. We then balk at the prices and push our travel plans to a later date, only to repeat the exercise of not planning later. Plan early for your travel. Plan your travels in the off season. Not only it burns a smaller hole in your pocket but also provides you an opportunity to explore the place peacefully without people peeping into all your pictures. Planning early gets you the best deals, best places and more importantly, hassle free approval from the boss. Once you have shown that you can plan early, a promotion is easy at your workplace 🙂
Sometimes all the best-laid plans go for a toss. But worry not, if one plan goes for a toss, make another. Keep checking travel websites, coupon sites for various deals that come along. If you had planned for a 3-day holiday and the boss had to cancel your Monday holiday, worry not. A 2-day holiday close by can also be as rejuvenating and enjoyable as a 3-day one. If not for anything, check into a spa or a wellness resort for a 2 day stay to be one with yourself and give your body some well-needed rest.
The last thing you want to do when you travel is to go to all the places that are a part of a tourists’ guide. You are better than this. You are a traveler. Check offbeat places near your destination, do some research online and at the hotel/hostel/resort for information. Travel to places where the locals would go. I have a golden rule – If there is an entry charge at a spot, it surely is going to be crowded and also a perfect tourist spot, that a traveler can well avoid.
Do read about your destination. It is very important! You don’t want to land up in Bali without having any semblance of the exchange rate or the local culture or something as simple as the name of the capital city! Reading up about the place helps you avoid asking stupid questions and then getting taken for a ride. I ended up paying $ 5 for a taxi trip from the Bali airport to the hotel instead of $15 asked by several cab drivers at the airport because I did my reading. Reading does help keep you sharp and also saves you a lot of money 🙂
Blend in with the local culture. Do not be loud when the natural demeanor of the locals is being soft spoken, do not wear beach wear where the norm is to cover up, do not bargain if you do not intend to buy and most importantly, do not intend to travel if you don’t want to align with the culture there. I have been to several countries across the world and the one thing that makes travelers endearing to the locals is their investment in understanding them and viewing the country through the lens of their culture. Don’t try being a round peg in a square hole. Enjoy the country for what it is, through their eyes and ears.
Yup. I said it. Take a vacation like a boss. Forget all the worries behind. Turn off that data connection, put your phone in the airplane mode and use your eyes to see, ears to hear and the mouth to ask for directions. Wander around on your feet, discovering places and smells that many might have missed in the fervor to see everything. Thinking about your office emails or your friends will only make your vacation suck. Make friends there, talk to the locals, immerse in their lives and rituals. 9
Unless you figure in the Forbes billionaire list, this is not about money! Be limitless when it comes to energy and passion on a travel vacation. Sometimes, a travel vacation is very intense. You immerse yourself in the culture, stories, and people, only to come out as a different person. Be limitless when it comes to experiences, be limitless when it comes to interacting with people, be limitless when it comes to asking around, be limitless when it comes to smelling the food and hearing the music. What is a travel if you have not inhaled and walked!
During every moment of your travel, reflect on what you see. Everything that you see has a reason and always ask for it. Most of my learnings have come from reflecting during a travel to an unknown destination. Every destination teaches you something, Vietnam taught me patience, Kota Kinabalu showed me that climbing mountains is not enough, Ladakh showed me what true love is. This is an endless list but I will stop here.
Now are you ready to know the secret of becoming a successful travel blogger? Well, the truth is there’s no secret.
Do you have any Super Traveler tips or other ideas on how to support yourself while traveling?
If yes, please do share in the comment box below.
Food is a melting pot, a universal experience. A experience that no one can refuse. Everyone loves good food. While Marketers may say Millennials or Centennials or Generation Z or XYZ are technophiles. The universal truth is that food was, is and will always be more important than anything else. In fact, in today’s world it has gained even more importance because technology addiction has stolen the sensory stimulation from our physical world. Thereby leaving a void to fill, which makes us latch on to food as something that engages all the senses and brings people together in physical space.
It is no surprise that travel habits have shifted from “What do I see?” to “What do I eat?” A bad food experience can ruin your perfect holiday. If food is on your mind, Mumbai is the perfect city to plan your days around food and still consume art, culture and history. Mumbai is like my second home. I have a love and hate relationship with Mumbai. The City of dreams has both stolen my heart and broken it too. But one thing that has always been constant is my love for the the non-nonsense attitude of the Mumbai Manush and its food.
So let me take you on a quick virtual tour of Mumbai through the Lens of a Foodie.
PLACE TO SEE: CHHATRAPATI SHIVAJI TERMINUS
Of all the places to visit in Mumbai, CST truly shows travelers the life and soul of the city. Marked as a UNESCO World Heritage site, it serves as the headquarters of the Central Railways. With the stunning architecture influenced from Victorian Italianate Gothic Revival to traditional Mughal buildings, this busy station sees people from all walks of life.
Food in the area: Cannon Pav Bhaji
For a quick and cheap bite, go straight to Cannon Pav Bhaji. Managed by ladies for over forty years, they closely guard the recipe for their incredible pav bhaji that has made them a legend in South Bombay. It is located right outside CST and draws crowds from all over the city.
PLACE TO SEE: FORT (MUMBAI PRECINCT)
After seeing CST, stepping out and taking a stroll around Fort area is another effortless way to absorb the architecture of Old Mumbai. Step back in time in the old business district of Mumbai that was once the heart of Mumbai in the 18th century, while checking out the small arts and craft stores and bookstores like Kitab Khana and Wayward and Wise.
Food in the area: Jimmy Boy, Mahesh Lunch Home, 145 Kala Ghoda, The Nutcracker
Fort is any foodie’s’ ultimate dream. The range of food is unprecedented. Starting from simple yet delicious Parsi fare at Jimmy Boy to a high end, sophisticated European experience at The Nutcracker, Fort has it all.
Jimmy Boy is a classic Irani cafe that embodies authentic Parsi cuisine in all its dishes. People keep coming back for delicacies like their Mutton Berry Biryani (made with cranberries imported from Iran!), Jardaloo/Apricot Salli Chicken and Lagan Nu Custard. Jimmy Boy’s antique decor and seating arrangements take their guests back in time and makes each meal there a multisensory experience.
Another favourite in Fort is Mahesh Lunch Home. Founded in 1977, this original location of the small chain restaurants produces some of the most coveted Mangalorean specialties. It has built its customer base for decades and they come back for the Surmai Curry, Crab Masala and Lobster Chilli Garlic.
145 Kala Ghoda is perfect for people looking for a great ambience along with delicious food. This all day cafe and bar has a relaxed atmosphere with a pool table, free Wi-Fi and a DJ booth. The decor contains installations from common things you would find around Mumbai: aluminium kettles, umbrellas, small buckets, etc. The dishes pique the interest of foodies who love the unique presentation of food. Their Spicy Pav Bhaji cones are becoming increasingly popular, and the filling in their Chicken Tikka Cigar is mouth-watering.
Finally, for visitors looking for a more intimate, sophisticated experience with food, The Nutcracker is a quaint little cafe in a picturesque setting. The exposed brick walls, art pieces and patterned tiling gives an old school, homely feeling to visitors. Their culinary triumphs include a zesty black bean burger, pesto pasta and the famous seven layer chocolate cake.
PLACE TO SEE: BANDRA-WORLI SEA LINK
Less crowded than the popular Marine Drive, Bandra-Worli Sea Link offers visitors a similar experience of beautiful sunsets against the sea and city lights in the distance. This unique piece of engineering effectively connects the suburbs of West Mumbai (Bandra) to South Bombay (Worli). Being the first cable-stayed bridge in India, the bridge is an architectural marvel and must-see spot for first-time visitors of Mumbai.
Food in the area: Candies, Pali Village Cafe, Kalpana
Like South Bombay, the options for food in Bandra are endless. The difference is that the restaurants here can be more experimental, global fusionesque and truly a unique experience for foodies.
Candies is a bohemian cafe with an eclectic interior design that makes for a relaxed and fun vibe. The food is light and simple, the bite-sized desserts allow for foodies to try a variety of items and the food is well presented (perfect for your #foodstagram).
Pali Village Cafe is all about ambience and food creating the perfect experience for you. This rustic joint has minimalistic lighting, comfortable balcony seating and exquisite fine dining. Some of their highlights are Red Snapper with Strawberry Risotto and the Stuffed Chicken with Hash Potatoes and Apple.
Kalpana’s a unique Bandra local culinary experience. It’s a small roadside stall on Chapel Road but is popular for its fresh burgers, chicken lollipops, pastries and rolls. However, this small family-run establishment is most popular for their fugias. This East Indian sweet bread is at a bargain price of 10 for Rs. 12 and are a delicious snack.
PLACE TO SEE: LONAVALA
While taking one of the many flights to Mumbai and exploring the city life is fun, taking a break and checking into resorts near Mumbai can be equally rejuvenating. Only an hour outside of the city, Lonavala is the right choice to make during monsoon with stunning views from the Western Ghats and the gorgeous waterfalls that form every season.
Food in the area: Chikki and Fudge
As soon as you enter Lonavla, there is no way you can miss out on the numerous shops selling the famous chikki and chocolate fudge. The groundnut chikki and the special dried fruit chikki are out of this world, and coupled with the unique chocolate fudge, they make the perfect snack while relaxing and taking in the beauty of the hills around.
Another food that is very basic but my alltime favourite is Khichdi. I have driven from Colaba to Juhu at 4 am just to have Dal Khichdi and Palak Khichdi at Ramada. I have never left Mumbai without having my fill 🙂
Next time when you are in the town do try out the places mentioned above.
I hope you enjoyed this food trail with me. Please do share your feedback.
There are no right or wrong ways in life. Wrong and right are two sides of the same coin. It is all about perceptions. What might be normal for me might be too risky for someone. People who dare to walk on unusual paths are either termed as mad or adventurers, a more glorified term for the former. So what is it that keeps them going? Is it in their DNA or is it something acquired? Is it escapism or trying to establish one’s superiority over others? Is it self-improvement or is it just unplanned fun gone extreme?
Reasons could be aplenty. Some people are turned on by the thrill of exploring the unexplored. Some people love the adrenaline rush and they gravitate toward activities that give them that feeling. For some it’s taming the untamed waves of rivers, for others it is jumping out of airplanes, for others its climbing Mt. Everest, and for others, it’s the Ironman. When they find that sport or activity that gives them that feeling, they say there is nothing better. It becomes their go-to partner whenever they are in a need of some push or are just plain bored. But what exactly are the motivations behind this ever-growing craze for adventure activities or sports?
This article is an attempt to understand what motivates people to choose adventure. Although I am myself a huge adventure buff and could have written this article purely on my own experiences, I chose to interact with fellow thrill seekers to delve deeper and find out more about this animal called adventure seekers.
Here are the 11 motivations of adventure seekers that drive their adventure plans:
Adventure travel is an addiction. First time, you walk into it unknowingly usually with your friends but once you have tasted the blood there’s no going back. Nothing excites you more than the kick of adventure. First time is serendipity. Thereafter you become a slave of adventure travel.
Neil an amateur trekker and Jungle enthusiast recounts his experience of how unknowingly he ended up trekking the Mt. Everest Base camp,
Without knowing what Everest is, I planned a trip with 10 of my friends to Everest base camp. We went there just like any other random trip without any preparation. Most of us did not even have basic woolens. We bought everything at Thamel. Kathmandu. Call it our youthful arrogance or careless attitude we didn’t even take insurance.
While trekking we realised that this time we stretched the envelope a bit farther. Most of us were sportsmen at earlier part of life; hence we managed to trek up to two camps. But just below the base camp one of us fell sick. He turned blue and black, started vomiting. The guide told us if he does not lose altitude immediately he will die. It was 12 in the night. We were all dead tired. Had no strength and this guy was in real bad shape. Somehow we managed to get a horse for which we paid 10k for 1.5 km trek down at night. The sick friend and was accompanied by another friend to go down. Next day he had to be airliftedfted for which he paid 5 lakh rupees. Wish we had taken the insurance.
We did complete our trek but that incident taught me an important lesson – never to take things for granted. However, it did not quench my thirst for adventure sports. Rather it inflated it. I love adventure sports because Allows me to to stay outdoors.
Probably one of the most important motivation behind love for adventure travel. The adrenaline rush you get from putting your life on the line and coming victorious after winning over your fear is incomparable. It’s a feeling that can’t be duplicated in any other activity, and for many it’s a true sense of feeling alive. The emotion that the adrenaline feeds into is a heightened sense of being alive.
Sudeep, a social media specialist by profession and a traveler by passion says,
I can’t swim but always wanted to explore sea and do scuba diving. So one day without thinking too much about my fear for the sea I let my adrenaline rush take over me and booked my Andaman trip. It was one of the best lifetime experiences I ever had, where I went up to 50 feet under the sea and saw the beautiful underwater world. Initially I was scared of putting my life in danger but once I was deep inside the sea it was all totally worth it.
Adventure sport is not everyone’s cup of tea. Only the ones who are physically and mentally strong can take up the challenge. Once you complete the seemingly impossible task, everyone looks up to you. It gives a sense of accomplishment. A sense of identity.
Norman, an ironman who completed the triathlon says,
Adventure sports is not a sport full of people. There are only a handful of people who have the ability to train for and accomplish this feat. While competing in a group of elite athletes may bring money, fame, and glory, most importantly it brings a healthy dose of respect. The key motivation for me is rediscovering one’s self over and over Sometimes you outdo yourself, sometimes not, but every time you discover your new YOU!
Sometimes adventure travel gives you a fresh and a different perspective to look at things. It opens a new horizon for you from where things appear how you have always visualised them to be. Not everyone is an adventure junkie who goes about doing death defying stunts every now and then. 
Shivya Nath, country’s leading travel blogger who quit her corporate job at age 23 to travel the world says,
Shawna Grapentin wrote: “An adventurous life does not necessarily mean climbing mountains, swimming with sharks, or jumping off cliffs. It means risking yourself by leaving a little piece of you behind in all those you meet along the way.” I completely agree. But sometimes jumping off cliffs can be fun too. So above the terraced valleys of Bir and Billing in Himachal Pradesh, I went paragliding for the first time, flying over the Himalayas with my parachute and getting an aerial view of this country I love so much. Now is a great time to try it, for it is not as popular (and hence crowded), and you could be alone above the mountains and monasteries of these charming villages!
Adventure to escape is something that allows you to leave everything behind and interact with your deepest desires and fears. Sometimes escaping from routine can open up new doors of clarity and opportunity that you had not even dreamt of in your weirdest dreams.
Siddarth, 30 year old cyclist and a high risk taking professional who dreams of making a big mark through a startup says,
Choosing to trek chadar despite multiple warnings from my family has been a high point. I have always lived a comfortable life and it was time that I challenged it by going to the rooftop of the world, at -30 degrees, walking on frozen rivers, trekking the mountains and being one. Every adventure not only leaves you spellbound but also leaves you with lingering memories of the place and the people that you meet. Meeting new people and sharing their experiences is an adventure itself. The clean crisp air does help flush unwanted memories and leaves you rejuvenated.
Adventure travel is the greatest boredom killer. It helps you get away from the usual vagaries of life and try out something which is more fun and you like doing again and again without getting bored.
The 23 years old Devang Says,
I love adventure sports because there’s nobody between you and the nature. And secondly you can set your own limits. But it wasn’t I was an adventure enthusiast. It was a coincidence borne out of a motivation to kill boredom. My hostel was surrounded by three mountains in Nashik and there wasn’t much to explore around that’s when I started exploring the mountains and the rest is history. Now adventure travel is a part of me.
Adventure travel is your passport to test your limits. It’s the ability to say I’ve done it. It’s pushing your body and mind to absolute limits. It is the competition of the highest grade. It’s about self-competition and how far you can stretch yourself.
Charanpreet Singh, a renowned travel photographer, explorer and consummate adventure chaser says,
I want to devote my whole life (whatever is left) in the exploration of Himalayas. Mountains cleanse my mind while civilization again corrupts it. Nothing has made me stronger than adventure travel. It has made me challenge and achieve lofty goals. Thanks to adventure travel, I now accept challenges with a smile and make friends wherever I go. It has made me accept changes and discard my old self and wounds.
Adventure is not all about oneself. Sometimes it leads you to do lot of selfless acts which you would have otherwise not thought about. Many adventure enthusiasts push the envelope further by associating a cause with their adventure. Thereby not improving their lives but others too. 
Take for example Rahul Kumawat, who works as a diagnostic designer at Renault Nissan India in Chennai and who undertook a cycling journey from Chennai to New Delhi to champion a social cause. He says,
Initially I took up cycling as a hobby but later on I got in touch with many cycling enthusiasts who marry their passion with social causes. During a cycling event I met a professional cyclist who told me about RAAMS (Race Across American States) where they cover 5000 km in 12 days. blood donation, palliative care for cancer patients and a rare condition called the Hunter syndrome. I wanted to do something similar here in India so i decided to cycle for a cause – to create awareness for blood donation, palliative care for cancer patients and a rare condition called the Hunter syndrome.
Nature is the biggest detoxifier. It cleanses mind, heart and soul. The clouds of confusion vanish as soon as you are in the lap of nature. You are able to think clearly and take decisions mindfully. Some people can spend years and years in the company of nature without asking for anything else. The deeper they go better are the rewards. There is an eternal connection which sooner or later they find out.
As it happened with Vishi Bansal, A Himalayan enthusiast. She says,
I love mountains and I got into trekking accidentally. I had always felt something pulling me whenever I was in Mountains. But never quite understood. However my great Lakes trek was a turning point. I suddenly had the realization that this was where I belonged. I broke down and cried when the trek got over. Adventure travel makes me push my limits, helping me to understand myself better. And in real life when faced with difficult situations I try to draw parallel from my trek experiences.
While some indulge into adventure sports for internal reasons others are driven by external factors like meeting like minded people who share the same passion as you do.
Nayeem, who is a Ski instructor at Gulmarg says,
I love skiing because it gives me an opportunity to meet interesting people from different parts of the world, which I would have not met if I was in some other field. Recently I trained Bollywood personalities like Sharman Joshi. It was fun seeing them in the real life.
Some have a good fortune of being born in a family where Adventure runs in their veins. From the very beginning the kids are taught to be fearless and challenging. Where parents feel that the real education is not in books but in experiences and by being close to the nature.
Astha, a student who is a big travel enthusiast echoes the same thoughts. She says,
I always loved adventure travel since I was a kid. My dad loves adventure travel and he would encourage us to be not afraid of and he made me tough. Whether it was swimming in the river or going on a road trip he was always game for it. Whenever I wanted to travel he always made it happen. There were lot of times when I would share my desire to travel at night and next morning we would be on the road.
These was my humble attempt to find out an answer to what motivates the adventure enthusiasts. What is your motivation? Why do people keep pushing the envelope to more extremes, never feeling satisfied with their last conquest? Looking forward to hearing from you.
India, the moment people hear this name – they start imagining Holi, colours, bindi, saree, ghats, Sadhus, Yoga, Taj Mahal and everything cliched about India. Everytime I meet or speak to any foreigner I try to tell them that there’s more than this glorified cliched image of India that West is so obsessed with. So when Insight Guides contacted me to contribute to their story about ’10 tips for your first time in India’ I tried to share some insider tips which can make your first India trip truly memorable.
Here’s the story. Hope you’ll enjoy it.
India famously has a reputation for initiating culture shock on a first visit, especially for travellers journeying in the north of the country. Contemporary India can be bewildering, a place of extremes shot through with contradictions. Visitors seeking to negotiate this phenomenally complex country will likely experience juxtapositions of wealth and poverty alongside a liberated young middle class. In many ways, experiencing this is all part of a trip here. However, a few helpful practises can ensure you feel prepared when arriving after a long-haul flight, or when facing a culture most unlike that at home.
“India is a big and incredibly diverse country. When you visit India it’s like visiting many countries within a country,” says Archana Singh of Travel See Write. “From the mighty Himalayas in the North to the serene backwaters of Kerela to the Coastal countryside of East to the Thar desert of West; India has a lot to offer. Instead of cramming everything in a single trip take it slow.”
With that in mind, our India editor has prepared an essential run-down of tried and tested tips to ensure you can get on with enjoying your trip as quickly as possible.
Take the hassle out of planning and discover our Essential Golden Triangle trip here.
1. It’s best to use a pre-paid taxi from airports. Black city taxis should be metered, but get an estimation of the fare before you set off. Better yet, pre-arrange your hotel transfer to ensure a smooth start to your time in India.
“Book in advance to avoid last minute hassles,” adds Singh. “For within city travel, you can always opt for a taxi or an auto. But make sure to bargain with autowallahs.”
2. The Golden Triangle is India’s most popular tourism area and for a lot of locals, Westerners are seen as rich simply because they’re there. Therefore, you can expect a lot of both hustling for business and begging in certain places. If you don’t want what someone is selling, it’s easier not to get drawn into conversation – politely say no and walk away. Responses to begging are a very personal choice – although many people consider it best not to give any money as a means of discouraging the practise, especially with children.
3. When travelling by autorickshaw, it is essential to agree a fare beforehand to avoid arguments later on. In particular, it’s helpful to confirm that you want a price with “no shopping,” ie. without unrequested stops at shops operated by pals of the driver, where they can anticipate a kick-back on all sales made. That is, of course, unless you would like to go shopping!
4. Don’t let autorickshaw or taxi drivers take you to a hotel you don’t want to go to – insist that you have a reservation at your specified hotel. Don’t be put off by claims that the hotel has burnt down, is booked up or suffering an infestation of some sort. Be polite and insistent about where you want to go.
5. With regards to your health, two attitudes almost guarantee a miserable time: carelessness and hypochondria. Take elementary precautions by sticking to bottled drinks, no ice and freshly cooked hot food, and you should be fine. Note that even decent hotels’ buffets, left out all day, can be a risk, so order a la carte or even from a street food stall, where you can see food cooked in front of you. If you’re especially concerned, India is an excellent place to go vegetarian, as many people don’t eat meat and the choice of veggie options is excellent.
6. Beware of credit card fraud, and don’t let your credit card out of your sight when paying by plastic.
7. Carry valuables on your person at all times if possible, or leave them in your hotel safe, rather than unsecured in your room. When taking internal flights or overnight trains, padlock your bags and carry anything especially valuable on you.
8. The sun is strong in the Golden Triangle, even in the winter. Keep hydrated (with sealed, bottled water), protect your head with a hat and try to do your outdoor sightseeing in the morning or late afternoon.
9. India’s respect for red tape and bureaucracy can be maddening, but use it to your advantage – vouchers, passes, letters of introduction and official business cards can all work wonders for you.
10. In all senses of the word, stay cool. India has been described as a “functioning anarchy” and this remains true in the face of encroaching globalisation. Don’t get cross and remember that a smile and small tip can be more effective than anything else.
Source: Insight Guides
Ever since I shared my travelogue on Sapa, a lot of people have shown immense interest in visiting Vietnam and have sought my help in planning their trip. So this post and few upcoming posts are dedicated to helping you plan your first trip to the incomprehensibly exotic and utterly compelling, Vietnam.
Vietnam is abundant with breathtaking natural beauty, unique heritage and culture. Travel becomes addictive in this country which is brimming with infectious energy and warmth. Once you visit Vietnam, you can’t stop but prolong your trip or return again. Vietnam is a living example of resilience. A War trodden country until 1975, Vietnam has bounced back remarkably to make up for the time lost to the ravages of the war and a government that kept the outside world at bay until the 1990s. Vietnam does have its task cut out when it comes to attracting tourists from across the world, in comparison with its more open and developed south Asian neighbours. But thanks to cheap currency and unique cultural experiences, it is slowly and steadily becoming the darling of tourists.
So without further ado let me help you plan your maiden trip to Vietnam. Here is my personally experienced and curated recommendations – a practical guidebook for your first Vietnam visit.
Vietnam is a long, snake-like narrow country sandwiched between the South China Sea and the border between Laos and Cambodia. Vietnam is unrivaled for its diversity of landscapes – from the lush rice terraces and majestic mountains in the far north to the picturesque valleys of the Central Highlands and the fertile delta to the beautiful white sand beaches and turquoise waters of the south. And that’s not all. Vietnam offers a unique mix of booming modern cities, colonial towns, traditional villages, UNESCO heritage sites, archaeological marvels and otherworldly islands. Vietnam has a lot to offer. Perhaps even few months are not enough to see all, forget admiring the beauty! Here are some recommendations.
The geography of Vietnam is as follows
North Western Mountains, Sapa, Vietnam
I explored only North and North Western Vietnam and hence I am going to share what I experienced
The capital city is famous for its thousands of colonial-era buildings and over two dozen exotic lakes. Known as the “Paris of Asia”, Hanoi exudes grace and grandeur through its appearance and architecture amidst the chaos of modern day living. Hanoi is a melting pot of the historic charm and the expansion of modern realms. A place still preserving grand old boulevards and ancient pagodas where locals practice their tai chi moves beside tree-fringed lakes. There is not a dull moment while walking the narrow congested streets of the Old Quarter. During the day it a thriving hub for commerce selling everything under the sun at throwaway prices. In the evening it transforms into one giant street food market. The transformation is so quick that I almost got lost. Hanoi is renowned for its street food, especially the Old Quarter and around Hoan Kiem Lake area. Other attractions that one must see are Hoan Kiem Lake, the Ngoc Son Temple, the French Quarter and the Hanoi Hilton, Temple of Literature, the Vietnam Army Museum, and the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Nha Tho Cathedral among other attractions. To know more how to make your Hanoi Trip awesome do check out 10 Tips For Hanoi Budget Travel
Visit Vietnam for Hoan Kiem Lake at Hanoi
Visit Vietnam for its Street food at Old Quarter in Hanoi
The UNESCO World Heritage site is one of the most romantic and beautiful seascapes. Sailing in the calm emerald sea of Halong Bay dotted with thousands of spiky limestone pinnacles is an unworldly experience. The sunsets are to die for. There is no better way to experience the bay but on a cruise. There are different kinds of cruise available – luxury to mid-range to cheap Bai Chay tourist boats. Safety is a big concern so it’s advisable to go for a mid-range overnight or two nights cruise. I booked Imperial Classic Cruise and I was overwhelmed with their hospitality and their guide’s knowledge.
I had a private luxury hotel like a cabin with attached bathroom and I was spoiled with exotic and tasty multi-course meals and drinks. One interesting thing that I noticed in North Vietnam was the influence of Chinese culture – right from their food to their folk stories to their celebrations. One prime example is how they name their places and objects. The word “Halong” translates to “where the dragon descends into the sea” and they have interesting names for even the rocks in the bay and the caves. The activities during the cruise include visiting:
Halong Bay is one of the star attraction of Vietnam and definitely worth the hype. Halong Bay is best explored with a partner, whom I was badly missing 🙁
Visit Vietnam for Halong Bay, Vietnam (pls enlarge and see)
Visit Vietnam to see Sunset at Halong Bay
Visit Vietnam to see Pearl Farming at Halong Bay
Being a mountain person this was the most cherished part of my trip. Hikers and adventure seekers cannot afford to miss this beautiful hill station. Sa Pa is located in Lao Cai Province, north-west Vietnam, and 350 km north-west of Hanoi. Sapa lies near the Chinese border in northwestern Vietnam, known as “the Tonkinese Alps” and is famous both for its unspoiled rugged scenery and for its rich cultural diversity. The entire Sapa region is a sightseeing place in itself. Trekking is an ideal way to explore its enchanting beauty.
If you have time on hand then you can see Tha Bac (Silver) waterfall, Ham Rong Mountain, Rattan Bridge, Bamboo Forest and Ta Phin Cave among others. To reach Sapa, you can either take a 5-hour private sleeper bus leaving at night or early morning from any of the travel agents in Hanoi or take a 9-hour overnight train from Hanoi to Lao Chai, and then 45 minutes more from Lao Chai City by bus. In Sapa, I discovered the soul of Vietnam. Do read the untold story of Sapa.
Visit Vietnam for its Terrace Farming at Sapa
Vietnam is a place for all seasons. There is no right or wrong season to visit Vietnam. Like its South East Asian counterparts, Vietnam is typically warm and humid. However, like India, weather can vary drastically from one region to another due to the length of the country. So you can experience snowfall in the far north and at the same time basking in the 32 °C sunshine in the South.
The climate in Vietnam can be divided into three different zones – North, South and Central.
Remember one thing, there is no such thing as bad weather. Only just bad clothing. If you are well prepared Vietnam is a country for every season.
When to visit Vietnam
Vietnam has long been the darling of backpackers who spend months in the country and no prizes for guessing why. If you want the best value for money then there is no better place than Vietnam. However, for people who are into full-time jobs and cannot take a mega travel break, begin with 8 days itinerary for the Northern part. If you want to cover the key places in Northern, Central and Southern part then 14 days itinerary is good and if you are not time-starved and want to explore all the key attractions, 21 days itinerary is good. However, if you are really time-starved, 5 days are good for a start. Do keep in mind the time spent reaching these places.
Here are few examples of possible itineraries for your first Vietnam visit.
A ‘Miniskirt’ break: To refresh you with the natural beauty of Northern Vietnam
Visit Vietnam: Visit Sapa Town Plaza
A ‘Cocktail skirt’ break: I would add three more days to the above itinerary and explore Halong Bay and Sapa. Or I would visit Mai Chau or North East Vietnam. But in case you don’t want to trek and want to cover the other important city of Vietnam then this itinerary should work for you:
Visit Vietnam for glorious sunsets at Halong Bay
A ‘Midi skirt” break: Personally, I would spend 8-10 days exploring Hanoi, Halong Bay, Sapa, Ha Giang, Bac Ha and spend the rest exploring Hue, Hoi An, and Nha Trang. But for others who want to explore all the three regions, this itinerary should work fine:
Floating Market, Mekong Delta, Vietnam
A ‘Gown” break: This is the ideal break and will be ideal to discover the heart and soul of Vietnam where you’ll not be rushing into places.
Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam.
Hoping this practical Guidebook for your first Vietnam visit will be useful to you. Do share your feedback.
Hanoi at Night
View from Hoan Lake, Hanoi
Sailing Through Halong Bay, Vietnam
Can’t get enough of Halong Bay Sunset, Vietnam
Another one capturing the Sunset at Halong Bay, Vietnam
Hanoi City at night, Vietnam
Hoan Kiem Lake temple, Hanoi, Vietnam
Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi, Vietnam
Hmong Tribe Woman with kid, Sapa, Vietnam
My last post was about why Kota Kinabalu is the best place for Unplanned Travel in South East Asia and my first day at the very place. This one is about my Day 2, an enthralling experience – when scaling the heights of Mount Kinabalu was not enough adventure. Let’s get straight to the action!
Day 2 was about Mount Kinabalu. I love mountains more than the sea. The excitement to meet my beloved mountains woke me up before time. At sharp 5:30 am I was ready with my other hostel mates to drive to Mount Kinabalu, the highest Mountain peak in South East Asia. The Masada Backpackers hostel staff was helpful in arranging a cab for us. It was pitch dark when we left, the sun still snoozing.
Our thoughtful driver stopped the car at a point which offered the most amazing sunrise view. The sunrise was a sight to behold. It was a surreal sight, like what we used to draw in our nursery drawing books– the sun rising behind the mountain peaks, its shadow creating drama in the river flowing just below the mountains. Birds were flying out of their nests. The sky was like a painting. No camera could do justice to this site yet we clicked away to glory!
Sunrise at Mount Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia
Sunrise while on the way to Mount Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia
We were driving through the lush green valley that was engulfed by white clouds. It seemed that we were driving our way through one of the heavenly highways!. I was smitten by the majestic beauty of Mount Kinabalu, which dwarfs its neighbours with its elevation of 4095 metres. Per Peaklist.org it is the 20th most prominent peak in the world due to its characteristic topography. I felt like I was home and all I could think of was this song – Raindrops keep falling on my head. I had waited for nine months to be with the mountains and I couldn’t stop gushing at the feeling of being united with my love.
Entrance of Mt. Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia
Mount Kinabalu Park Entrance, Sabah, Malaysia
And the wait was over. I was at the base of Mount Kinabalu at 7:30 am. Unfortunately, I could not climb Mt. Kinabalu because the park had already reached the limit of allowing 135 climbers per day to hike and I could not spare three more days as work beckoned at Manila. So I settled to do the next best thing – explore the Botanical Garden and hike around the other trails from the base.
Mount Kinabalu Base Park, Sabah, Malaysia
There are nine trails around the park headquarters:
One of the trails at Base, Mount Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia
Base Trail, Mount Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia
These trails are fairly easy trails and can all be done in two days. Apart from the stunning views, what makes Mount Kinabalu park even more remarkable is the outstanding biodiversity. This is the very reason why it is in the UNESCO World Heritage List. It is also a tropical rainforest park that offers visitors a great opportunity to see rare species of flora and fauna. The park is well maintained, well-marked and has knowledgeable staff.
During my conversation with Lisa, the lady manning the Botanical Gardens’ reception, I got to know that the Mt. Kinabalu Park is very stringent when it comes to employing people. All its employees have Environment Science background and have the desired skill and passion for the environment. Lisa herself was a Bachelors in Environmental Science and as part of her job she is required to be a jack of all trades – some days she handles the reception and somedays she’s part of the Research team. No wonder the guides, receptionist and everyone involved knew so much about the biodiversity of the park.
The Mount Kinabalu Botanical Garden Staff, Sabah, Malaysia
I took a guided tour of two trails and the Botanical Park. The trails were easy and well-marked enough to be walked without a guide. It was the beginning of the monsoon season in Malaysia, therefore, it rained pretty hard for two hours. But after that it was clear. Hiking around the base was easy, the temperature was around 25 degrees and the humidity rather low. I was totally mesmerized by the park and its diversity.
The park was a treasure house for nature and wildlife lovers. Different kinds of trees, birds, animals, insects, smallest orchids in the world, endangered orchids, heartbreak leaves, laughing mushroom, red ginger, contraceptive plant, mickey mouse plant, tallest moss in the world, prey trapping pitcher plants and what not. The park had plants of all kinds – rare, native, and endemic.
My guide added that Mt. Kinabalu was considered sacred by the local Dusun people, who named it ‘Akinabalu’ (the place of the dead), as they believed it to be the place where the souls of the departed gathered. Visitors are told not to carry anything from the mountain as it brings bad luck to the person. I was so engrossed in her conversation that I lost track of time and didn’t notice when my guided tour ended.
During my guided tour of the park, an Australian couple suggested visiting the Canopy Walk of the Poring Hotsprings. I had not planned anything after my park visit so it sounded like a good idea. And I was lucky to find my hostel mate strolling in the park too. It didn’t take me much time to convince him to join me on that spur-of-the-moment decision.
While we were waiting for the bus, two Europeans enquired us about the park. They had their own car but no plan. Anyway, I did not waste my time thinking about them. After waiting for around 20 minutes we got a bus going to Sandakan. We alighted at the forked road from where we had to fetch another transport vehicle to take to our destination. There was no public transport in sight going to Poring Hot springs.
We were under the impression that from that point our destination would be 1-2 kms away so we started walking. But as soon as we saw the direction sign saying 15 km we were taken aback. Now the face which was glowing with the excitement of seeing a new place had turned pale with a bit of worry. After a lot of failed attempts, we finally got a hitch in a local commercial purpose van. There was another guy sitting in the van. After bargaining for a while, we decided to pay him 10R per person to take us to our destination. When the driver drove into smaller deserted kind of area we got bit worried. But thankfully my imagination’s wild horses were put to rest.
With just 10 minutes for the CANOPY WALK to close we reached the Poring Hot springs at 3:50. You need 20 minutes and a good stamina to climb up slippery mud track, traversing through tree stubs, roots and boulders to reach the Canopy Walk Treetop platform. But hard-pressed for the time we took less than 10 minutes. I was huffing and puffing like I ran a marathon. However, the fatigue just vanished as soon as I stood in the middle of the Canopy Walkway. Let me warn you beforehand. Poring Canopy Walkway is not for those who have acrophobia, hypertension or heart problem.
Poring Canopy Walkway , Sabah, Malaysia.
The canopy is over 175 Meters long and 41-43 Meters in height, which is higher than 8-floor building. It is a suspension bridge constructed with ropes, steel cables and a series of aluminum ladders bolted together. The walkway is an elastic suspended wobbling structure, so it will bounce and swing when you walk on it. But don’t worry it has net enclosed on both sides for additional security.
The three bridges are held between 3 super-big trees of the Borneo rainforest. The canopy walkway is narrow and can only take the 6-people load at a time. 75% of rainforest animals spend their time on forest canopy. Some of them never come to the ground, so canopy walkway is great for observing these animals and is a good spot for bird watching too. The view of the valley from the canopy was too scary but an adventure junkie never frets. We spent some time exploring the rest of the area like Butter Fly Farm, butterfly farm, the Poring Orchid Conservation Centre, the tropical garden, the Rafflesia flower site and Sulphur Hot springs for which the place is renowned.
After the canopy walk, I thought I got my adrenaline dose for the day. Little did I know that the real adventure was about to begin.
At around 5 pm we were out of the Poring hotsprings and thus started our struggle for fetching the transport to get back to Kota Kinabalu. Ranau is a small place with hardly any public transport. So while we were waiting for the taxi, the European guys that we met at Mt. Kinabalu Park arrived. They indulged in a small talk with us and asked if we could wait for them then they can drop us back or we could also join them for the party. The over-friendliness of the guys sent an alarming signal in my head. So very politely we decided to give it a pass. Later we regretted not accepting their offer.
Now we were left with only one option – an old guy offering us to drop to Ranau (the nearby town to get a bus) at triple the price of a taxi fare. I felt the guy was drunk and shared my concern with Yu. Yu thought I was unnecessarily getting paranoid and he dismissed my concern saying he was just an old guy. Anyway, we were now in his car. His car was a truck used for the farming purpose. It was dingy with soiled eats and a foul smell. One of the windows was broken and there was no air-conditioning. And the worst part- he didn’t have the ignition key to start the car. Somehow he managed to start the car. And boy his driving scared the shit out of us. Even Michael Schumacher would be scared to be his co-passenger.
Basically, we were in for an adventure ride of our life. The old man was pissed drunk and was constantly chattering nonsense. I decided to ignore him. After driving for 15 minutes at insane rough speed, in the middle of the road he stopped the car and said,
Mam, this is my house and I have a magic plant that cures cancer. If you don’t mind I would like to show you that.
Our insane driver, who almost killed us, with his so called cancer curing fruit
I was already mad at him and I just asked him to stick to our original plan. On the way he said, we had missed the minivan and he would charge us extra to take us to the town centre. My harsh reply dispelled his attempt to extort more money out of us. Finally, we reached Ranau and he stopped the car at a very quiet place and went away somewhere without telling us where he was going.
We got down from the car and Yu went ahead to inquire from the locals about the transportation options. In Yu’s absence the drunk old man returned and started saying you pay me 300R and I’ll drop you to Kota Kinabalu. While talking he tried to get physical. I blasted him and warned him not to touch me or come near me. After paying his fare I went straight to the police guys. One look at the old guy and they said we were lucky to reach alive as the guy was pissed drunk and not in his senses.
We were in a really bad state. It was Sunday evening and there was no transport service available to take us to Kota Kinabalu. We were told that at 7:30 pm there could be a bus going to KK but they were not sure if that service was available on weekends. It had got dark and was raining hard. We were tired. Frustrated. Hungry. Wet.
Above all, we didn’t know what to do. Our phones were not working. Our folks didn’t have a clue where we were. We knew nobody in this sleepy ghost town. No eateries or hotels in sight. Didn’t have enough cash or card in hand. We had no choice but to return to KK as we would miss our next day flight to Manila if we didn’t return that night. My excitement to explore the unexplored was proving costly today.
Shivering in the cold night weighed down by the weight of by backpack we waited silently for our bus to arrive. At 7:30 pm a bus arrived at the bus stop and our faces glowed with unsurmountable happiness only to find that it was a College trip bus and the kids had just stopped over to buy their fill of snacks. We pleaded the students and the driver to give us lift till wherever they were going. We played the sympathy card and asked if we could sit on the bus floor. Basically, we did everything to convince them. However, the kids and the driver didn’t have the authority to take such decision.
We had lost all hope to get back to Kota Kinabalu that night but it is when you lose all your hope that miracles do happen. We saw a bus approaching towards us. It had Kota Kinabalu written over it. Without much ado, we got onto the bus and thanked our stars for saving us that day. Never ever have I felt so much happiness at the sight of public transport as I did that night.
We survived one more night to enjoy more adventurous rides in life.
However, I learned a valuable lesson that day. Follow your gut but be sensible enough to look into details. Sometimes being impulsive can get you into big trouble.
Related: One place that I would NEVER recommend you to visit in Malaysia in Selangor. Wanna know why? Read here my 10 reasons to not visit Selangor Malaysia
Mount Kinabalu at sunrise, Sabah, Malaysia
Valley View from Mount Kinabalu area, Sabah, Malaysia
Inside Mount Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia
Pitcher Plant, Mount Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia
Indigenous Orchid, Mount Kinabalu Botanical Garden, Sabah, Malaysia
Red Ginger, Mount Kinabalu Botanical Garden, Sabah, Malaysia
Flora, Mount Kinabalu Botanical Garden, Sabah, Malaysia
Two colours of soil – orange and yellow seen during Base Camp Trail, Mt. Kinabalu
Tropical Rainforest Tree without any rings for changing seasons, Mount Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia
Other attractions at Poring Hot Springs, Sabah, Malaysia
Explore the untold story of Sapa, Vietnam, where vibrant ethnic tribes, breathtaking terraced rice fields, and a rich cultural tapestry await. Embark on a Sapa adventure, discover hidden gems, and immerse yourself in the unique charm of this mountainous paradise. Uncover the beauty of Vietnam with our travel guide and essential tips.
It’s been two weeks since I returned from Sapa, Vietnam but the “the Tonkinese Alps” has got under my skin so bad that not even a day passes by when I don’t think about untold story of Sapa, Vietnam that I uncovered during my fiirst visit to the region. The dreamlike landscapes of Vietnam is not the only reason behind this feeling but it’s the enchanting culture of Sapa and its people. I love exploring the untold human stories so on my last trip to Sapa I tried to sneak a peek into the lives of ethnic tribes of Sapa. This post is an attempt to look beyond the surface and discover the true beauty of Vietnam. A beauty that is not perfect. A beauty that lives with a smile on the outside and a raging fire in the inside. Here is my hhonest attempt to share the untold story of Sapa, Vietnam with you.
Sometime in August 2015, while I was channel surfing I saw the first glimpse of Sapa in a NatGeo program and the idea to visit Vietnam got incepted in my mind. Come Nov 19, 2015 and here I was in the quaint land of mist and mountains. It was 4:30 am and I was half asleep when my lux bus (great legroom, reclining seats, and toilet on board among other amenities) reached the Sapa bus stand after a comfortable 5 hours Hanoi-Sapa journey. I had barely slept last night so I conveniently snoozed the conductor’s announcement to retreat to the warmth of my blanket.
At 5:30 am when I alighted from the bus I noticed a flock of short Hmong women dressed in vibrant traditional outfits smiling and asking if I need a guide. Politely refusing them I took a taxi to reach the famous landmark – the Holy Rosary Church, aka the Stone Church. As I hailed from the taxi I felt I had been transported into Shimla. The centre of the town was dwarfed by the nearby mountain ranges, and especially the peak of Phan-Xi-Pang (Vietnam’s highest mountain at 3,100 m). The Stone Church built in late 19th century by the French was standing tall in this orient-meets-the-alps retreat. Just across the Church lay the town’s main marketplace and plaza, which made me wonder if I was in Vietnam or somewhere in Europe. The call time for my guide was 6:30 and at sharp 6:30 she was there. After a hearty buffet breakfast at Cinnamon Restaurant I started my trek at 7:30 am.
The Stone Church, Sapa, Vietnam
During the trek the soft spoken, ever smiling, traditionally clad Si told me that Sapa has numerous ethnic minority groups (Hmong, Dao, Giay and Tay) and majority (approx. 80%) of the population is into agriculture. I was trying to pay attention to Si’s words while my mind was playfully lost in the jaw-dropping stunning panoramas of the valley. The patchwork rice terraces cascaded down the mist-shrouded emerald lofty slopes. The sun was playing hide and seek through the clouds offering teasing glimpses of even more spectacular soaring peaks farther off. Bathed in morning sunlight, the misty vistas looked giant water colour paintings of the greatest painter, the almighty. We were walking through terraced rice paddies, Indigo fields, Bamboo forests, rivulets and small waterfalls. Water buffaloes and pigs stared at us from rice fields. My muddy slip-and-slide adventure trek was both rewarding and tiring. It got extremely sweaty despite the cool breeze. But the view made it up for all the hard work.
Terrace Rice Fields of Sapa, Vietnam
While trekking we were greeted by tiny Hmong women trying to sell everything they had in their traditional woven baskets: embroidered hemp skirts, bags, belts, purses, silver bracelets, earrings and traditional necklaces. I learnt from these innocent looking English speaking shrewd traders that looks can be deceptive. They seem to have promptly embraced capitalism. Talking means buying their stuff. If you don’t, be prepared to get nasty looks. And taking their picture. Just forget it. For them it’s simple. “No money. No picture.” Initially I perceived them to be rude and the new slaves of capitalism but later on my heart-to-heart conversations with them revealed a harsh reality.
The excruciating five hours trek had completely left me drained. Huffing and puffing I finally reached the Lao Chai Village where our first pitstop was the local restaurant. Buzzing with tourists its air was full of beef and pork smell. The waitresses were delivering orders at the speed of light. My legs were cramped and I was super hungry but unfortunately my vegetarian meal requirement was lost in the translation. So I was left with no choice but to have fruit. I desperately wanted to get out of the restaurant which now resembled a fish market. However, the army of Hmong women and kids wouldn’t get it and continue doggedly selling their wares. I had no option but to sulk and wait for my guide.
Lao Chai Restaurant, Sapa, Vietnam
Finally after 45 minutes my guide returned and we proceeded to my Homestay at Lao Chai village. It was a simple single story wooden house surrounded by paddy fields and dramatic lush valleys. It had a kitchen garden from where came all my veggies and fruit. From the inside, the homestay looked simple but was well equipped with all necessary things you require for a comfortable stay. A large dining cum living area was reserved for tourists that doubled up as a bedroom. There were other rooms tucked away for their family members. While my guide went to the local market to fetch some vegetarian food for me I indulged in what I would call the biggest luxury at that time – a hot shower. It was nirvanic. My foul mood was washed away and I was ready to explore Sapa once again. Not in a mad rush to see everything but to get a real glimpse of the soul of Sapa. After a quick-fix lunch I was out with Si discovering the little hamlet.
This part of my journey unraveled the untold story of Sapa, Vietnam that is unfortunately a painful side of Sapa that not many would know. As I stepped out of the homestay I was again drowned by the sea of local kids trying to sell their stuff. I asked Si why kids work when they should be studying at this age. She replied:
Kids do go to school but during tourist season most of them try to support their parents by having more feeding hands. Their education lasts till 9th class only because firstly after 9th class they have to go to Sapa Town instead of the village school traversing miles every day in a weather that remains misty for more than 162 days a year and secondly education becomes paid after 9th class. For a region where 70% of the population is below poverty line, paid education is a luxury which very few can enjoy.
This was heartbreaking but got me interested in knowing more about their lives. I probed Si further. I was taken aback when I learnt that school girl looking Si was actually married. She works as a Guide while her husband takes care of the house and animals at home. She is the main bread earner. In Sapa, most girls get married in the age of 14-18 years. By 16 they have their first child. Usually everyone has at least 3-4 children.
Marriage traditions are very interesting in Sapa. ‘Love Market’ or ‘Cho Tinh’ organized every Saturday at Plaza in the main Sapa town used to be a genuine way of finding a groom but now it’s turn into a staged drama to attract tourists and earn some quick bucks. Historically, on Saturday nights, members of the Red Dao tribe would make their way to Sapa’s main square where young girls would be singing, hidden away in the dark. If any boy liked that voice, he would find the young girl out, court her and follow it up with a romp to the forest for three days. If the match was on, these trips would usually end in marriage.
Sapa Plaza where Saturday ‘Love Market’ takes place, Vietnam
Another interesting tradition is Marriage by Kidnapping: a young man kidnaps a young woman with the help of his friends and family. He informs his new in-laws only two days after the kidnap. However, the kidnapping is symbolic only. The girl usually knows that she’ll be kidnapped as she is given a gift two days in advance by the boy suggesting his motive. If she doesn’t like the match she can always refuse it and return to her parents’ home with any family member that comes to save her. And if she is OK with the match then the boy’s family pay the Bride price either in cash or by livestock such as buffalo to support the bride’s family from whom an earning member is taken away.
Listening about such incredible traditions I was witnessing the local life first-hand. The local school was getting decked up for a function. Shops were selling everything under the sun – from succulent meat to rice to mounds of fresh herbs to fresh vegetables to exotic fruits to sugarcane to clothes to firewood to kerosene to what not. I had seen many women with three circular marks on their forehead. I asked Si why so many of them have these huge marks. Apparently they get these marks when they cure their headache in a traditional way – heating cardamom in a buffalo horn and pressing the hot horn onto one’s forehead. This cure is said to be highly effective but leaves behind a circular burn like mark on their forehead.
She had no clue about her annual household income. She like thousands of other Sapa Tribes live a hand-to-mouth life and their dinner menu depends on what they earn that day. Sapa’s difficult climate allows only a single rice crop per year and food shortages are a constant concern. They have never had enough money to think how much they earn per year. She had heard about Hanoi and Halong Bay but never had money to go to those places. She has three sisters and two brothers. From the age of 9 years she has been housekeeping as it is an unsaid rule in Sapa for young girls to take care of the house, young siblings and prepare lunch before their parents arrive from the fields. Every girl in Sapa does cloth weaving from childhood. They make their own clothes and jewelry.
While gossiping and strolling through the village I didn’t realise when the day turned into dusk. As we returned to our homestay our lovely host Ki was waiting for us with a lovely smile and a childlike exuberance. She was highly concerned that I didn’t have proper lunch so she cooked everything she could to make me feel at home. While she was cooking I decided to give her company around the open-pit fire (Indian chullah version). It is during that time she opened up to me.
She is 20 something widow left with three children. She works as a guide and offers her house as a homestay to take care of her children. As a guide she earns around 10-15 dollars per day and her homestay fetches her 10 dollars more. Food items are not stocked as she buys them on daily basis depending on how much she earns that day. She doesn’t want to remarry because she doesn’t have the means to take care of 10 kids – she’ll get to marry someone who would already be having 3-4 kids and would expect to have more kids with her.
In spite of all life struggles Ki is an optimist. She has good communication skills and is full of love and warmth. Staying at her place was the best experience I could have asked for. After an early dinner I slipped into dreamland realizing in one single day I had experienced all four seasons in Sapa: a cool spring morning, a warm and sunny summer afternoon, a cloudy autumn evening, and a cold winter night.
100% natural and organic Dinner, Sapa, Vietnam
Next day before I woke up Si had already arrived. After a bounty full of breakfast I bid adieu to my wonderful host with a promise to return someday. We started our 3 hour trek through villages, streams, rivers, bamboo forests and muddy pathways. Soaring mountains and deep valleys dwarfed the bamboo villages, dirt roads and terraced rice fields. I was enjoying the view more today. Perhaps I was no more a tourist. I understood the locals a bit more today. I no more got irritated by their pesky behavior.
The soaring mountains of Northern Vietnam have long preserved the unique cultures of ethnic hill tribes but today this strength has become their weakness. While the rest of the Vietnam has started enjoying the benefit of globalisation, Sapa has remained the poor cousin being marginalized and forgotten. Although in the last 10 years Sapa has become a darling of Tourists arriving in Vietnam but the local tribes have hardly benefited from this travel boom. It is the rich tour operators from Hanoi and Ho Chin Minh who have gained.
Time will only tell if these tribes will persevere or, like the mountains, disappear into the thin air. I really hope that someday the effervescent smiles of these beautiful people will emanate from a happy prosperous life and not a life full of poverty, struggles and compromises. Till that day all I can do is – HOPE. Also, I really hope that you like my honest attempt to document the untold story of Sapa, Vietnam. Do let me know what you think in the comments section below.
PICTURE GALLERY THAT BRINGS TO LIFE THE UNTOLD STORY OF SAPA, VIETNAM
Sapa town centre facing the plaza and marketplace with Himalayan Range in the background, Vietnam
Coffee View Bar, Trek start point, Sapa, Vietnam
Valley View from Bamboo Forest, Vietnam
Terrace Ricefields, Sapa, Vietnam
River, Sapa Trekking, Vietnam
Waterfall, Sapa Trekking, Vietnam
Sapa Valley View, Vietnam
Trekking through Bamboo Forest, Sapa, Vietnam
My trek Guide and Homestay Host, Lao Chai Village, Sapa, Vietnam
Lao Chai School, Sapa, Vietnam
Hmong Tribe Woman, Sapa, Vietnam
Minority Crafts Centre, Sapa, Vietnam
Local Souvenier Shop, Lao Chai, Sapa, Vietnam
Tribal boys working, Sapa, Vietnam
PS: Here is my first attempt to video document my untold story of Sapa, Vietnam.
El Nido, world’s most beautiful island picture clicked by Asus Zenfone 2 Laser
The dirty little secret about travel writing is that something has to go wrong. And God forbid if it is do with your virtual eyes then you would never forgive yourself. Being a Travel blogger I believe prevention is better than cure so I carry not just one camera but 2-3 cameras 🙂
Recently I got a chance to use Asus Zenfone 2 Laser during my most awaited year-end trip to the world’s most beautiful islands – El Nido and Boracay. I am a purist so I am very skeptical about mobile phone cameras. For me, the most important asset is my DSLR camera but sometimes it is not feasible to carry it everywhere. At such times my mobile phone camera comes handy. I am a Google Nexus and Apple loyalist so loving Asus Zenfone 2 Laser didn’t come easy.
Now let me stop talking about myself and share my Asus Zenfone experience with you:
Here are the five reasons for my new found love:
Selfie Taken by Asus Zenfone 2 Laser under a cloudy sky
Picture taken in dark at World’s largest underground river with Asus Zenfone 2 Laser
Photography options of Asus Zenfone 2 Laser
Panoramic shot taken by Asus Zenfone 2 Laser (please enlarge the picture and see)
Super Efficient Multitasking Asus Zenfone 2 Laser Phone
Stylish ergonomic design of Asus Zenfone 2 Laser
3000mAh battery of Asus Zenfone 2 Laser
Lastly, all I can say is that I am very happy with Asus Zenphone 2 Laser. The size is perfect. The camera is amazing. You can do so much more with this phone. I am still exploring more amazing features of this phone and I am sure I will have a lot to say later. If you are looking to buy a new phone I recommend to check it out.
HAVE A LOOK AT SOME MORE PICTURES
9-year-old terrified Kim Phuc is running naked along the road after tearing off her burning clothes and the American soldiers are following her.
It’s been 44 years since that fateful Vietnamese aerial napalm attack happened but that picture still remains one of the most iconic picture of Vietnam War. I wasn’t even born when that picture was taken but that became my first memory of Vietnam. A lot has changed since then. Vietnam is no more war trodden. It has moved on and so has the world. Now Vietnam is one of the most sought after destination in the world for all kinds of travelers. And it deserves all the attention. If you too are planning to visit Vietnam and have only eight days or less in hand then this Vietnam itinerary is perfect for you:
Street Food, Hanoi, Vietnam
Known as the “Paris of Asia”, Hanoi is a melting pot of the historic charm and the expansion of modern realms. Start your day by taking a full day or half day tour with Hanoi Kids, a student-run organisation offering free city tours in Hanoi. You can choose destinations as per your liking – Ho Chi Minh Complex, Temple of Literature, Old Quarter, Long Bien Bridge, West lake area, Hoa Lo prison, and Museum of Ethnology and Bat Trang pottery village. End your day by gorging on the amazing street food. And don’t forget to have the world’s cheapest draft beer – ‘bia hoi’. Once you are done sightseeing you can indulge in some retail therapy. Vietnam is a paradise for thrift shoppers.
Sunset at Halong Bay, Vietnam
After two days of enjoying the charm of Hanoi, visit the site where James Bond said ‘tomorrow never dies’. Sailing in the calm emerald sea of Halong Bay dotted with thousands of spiky limestone pinnacles is an indescribable experience. The sunsets are to die for. There is no better way to experience the bay but on Halong Bay Cruises. I recommend taking 3D2N Luxury Pelican Cruise or Imperial Classic Cruise. The food and the services on the cruise are top notch. The route taken is not too touristy and you get to explore lot of activities like caving, kayaking, swimming, visiting the pearl farm, fishing and floating villages, taking Vietnamese cooking class among other things. However, if you are tight on budget and time then you can opt for a 2D1N cruise. But don’t take a day only trip. That’s plain waste of money.
For more details check: Practical Guidebook for your first Vietnam visit
Terrace Farms of Sapa, Vietnam
Hikers and adventure seekers cannot afford to miss this beautiful hill station, Sapa, which lies near the Chinese border in northwestern Vietnam, known as “the Tonkinese Alps”. It is famous both for its unspoiled rugged scenery and for its rich cultural diversity. Trekking is an ideal way to explore its enchanting beauty. If you have time in hand then you can see Tha Bac (Silver) waterfall, Ham Rong Mountain, Rattan Bridge, Bamboo Forest and Ta Phin Cave among others. To reach Sapa, you can either take a 5 hour private sleeper bus leaving at night or early morning from any of the travel agents in Hanoi or take a 9 hour overnight train from Hanoi to Lao Chai, and then 45 minutes more from Lao Chai City by bus.
After filling your lungs with the fresh oxygen of mountains and stomach with Vietnamese cuisine return to Hanoi to fly back to your destination.
Realted: The Untold story of Sapa, Vietnam
Halong Bay, Vietnam
October – November or February-April. Do keep a tab on international flights sales.
get the approval letter beforehand to procure your Visa on arrival at the Airport
Cotton comfortable clothes with one light jacket and sneakers. Pack light as Vietnam is a shopping heaven. You will end up buying lot of stuff
I prefer staying at old quarters. Book through websites like booking.com, agoda.com or a reliable travel agent
Be careful with the currency. 15000 Vietnamese Dong note looks similar to 50,000 Vietnamese Dong. Also, US dollars are accepted almost everywhere
Don’t ask for a price from hawkers until you want to buy it. Asking price is equal to buying. Bargain. Bargain. Bargain. I cannot stress enough
Be careful with the street food. Eat at places that have a huge number of guests to ensure fresh food quality. Never drink tap water. Always buy bottled water
The normal way of addressing tourists is, “My lady” for women and “Sir/Mr.” for men. Lying is a part of the Vietnamese culture. Get used to it. The first answer you will hear will always be NO until it has some benefit for the locals. Never raise your voice.
Not everyone speaks English. It’s best to learn few local language words like xin chao (Hello), phai yes), khong (no), toi muon mot ve di (I would like a tiket to)
Avoid taxi frauds. Use reputable cab companies like Hanoi Taxi, Taxi CP and Mai Linh Taxi. Buses and Scooter taxis are a cheaper way to explore Hanoi. For out of station use buses and trains. Tickets are fairly easy to get
Be careful of bikes when crossing the streets as maximum accidents are caused by motorbikes. Lately, Vietnam has earned a bad reputation for travel scams. Always book through reputed agencies only. Read reviews. Never pay 100% advance
I hope this ‘8 days in Vietnam: Your complete Vietnam itinerary!’ is useful to you and it inspires you to explore Vietnam.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
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